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MKClimbing
Finland
Приєднався 9 гру 2022
Rock climbing, especially trad multipitch is my passion. I want to share my adventures with other climbers and all the people who are intrested in watching. Most of the videos on this channel will be shot as person of view, which I think to be the best way to share and to get as close as possible to the the real climbing experience.
I hope that you enjoy my videos as much as I enjoy making them.
I hope that you enjoy my videos as much as I enjoy making them.
Cruising through the grooves and slabs to the top - Coley Smoke (pitch 5 (2/2) & 6)
We were planning to climb Bare blåbær on that day, but it was too crowded. So we ended up climbing Coley Smoke instead, which is a good alternative route. The line goes up the cracks and grooves in the center of the buttress.
Mountain Project
www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
Mountain Project
www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
Переглядів: 192
Відео
This groove never ends - Coley Smoke (pitch 5)
Переглядів 191День тому
We were planning to climb Bare blåbær on that day, but it was too crowded. So we ended up climbing Coley Smoke instead, which is a good alternative route. The line goes up the cracks and grooves in the center of the buttress. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
30 meters of crack in a groove - Coley Smoke (pitch 4)
Переглядів 36414 днів тому
We were planning to climb Bare blåbær on that day, but it was too crowded. So we ended up climbing Coley Smoke instead, which is a good alternative route. The line goes up the cracks and grooves in the center of the buttress. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
Past the cracks and the overlap - Coley Smoke (pitch 3)
Переглядів 40721 день тому
We were planning to climb Bare blåbær on that day, but it was too crowded. So we ended up climbing Coley Smoke instead, which is a good alternative route. The line goes up the cracks and grooves in the center of the buttress. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
Starting on easy slabs and getting into the groove - Coley Smoke (pitches 1 & 2)
Переглядів 424Місяць тому
We were planning to climb Bare blåbær on that day, but it was too crowded. So we ended up climbing Coley Smoke instead, which is a good alternative route. The line goes up the cracks and grooves in the center of the buttress. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/113234623/coley-smoke
The slanting groove and a ramp to the summit plateau - Sydpilaren (Pitches 12 & 13)
Переглядів 937Місяць тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
Placing a pro can be hard sometimes! - Another good finger-crack pitch - Sydpilaren (Pitch 11)
Переглядів 600Місяць тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
Sustained moves in the groove - Sydpilaren (Pitch 10)
Переглядів 581Місяць тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
Finger-crack on a slab - Sydpilaren (Pitch 9)
Переглядів 7932 місяці тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
Simul climbing the easier pitches - Sydpilaren (Pitches 7 & 8)
Переглядів 3982 місяці тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
From one groove to another - Sydpilaren (Pitches 4, 5 & 6)
Переглядів 5662 місяці тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
The CLASSIC route up Stetind, Norway’s national mountain! - Sydpilaren ( Pitches 1, 2 & 3)
Переглядів 5772 місяці тому
13 pitches route on Norway's national mountain - Stetind. First 3/4 of the route is relatively easy, and the more difficult climbing on the upper part. This route took us about 11,5 hours in total from car to car, including 2,5 hours of approach and 6 hours of climbing. Mountain Project www.mountainproject.com/route/109296873/sydpillaren-south-pillar
Wide jamming and arete, last two pitches of - Råna (pitches 7 & 8 5c/5.10a & 4a/5.6)
Переглядів 3312 місяці тому
This route is an underestimated, expedition style route, one of Lofoten's older classics. I really enjoyed the mountaineering feeling that the route offered, despite being close to road. The Crag www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/norway/lofoten/area/952600152
The prominent slab - Råna (pitch 6 - 5a/5.8)
Переглядів 6263 місяці тому
This route is an underestimated, expedition style route, one of Lofoten's older classics. I really enjoyed the mountaineering feeling that the route offered, despite being close to road. The Crag www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/norway/lofoten/area/952600152
From a ledge to another passing trough the chimneys, perfect belay spike - Råna (pitch 5 - 4b/5.7)
Переглядів 3203 місяці тому
This route is an underestimated, expedition style route, one of Lofoten's older classics. I really enjoyed the mountaineering feeling that the route offered, despite being close to road. The Crag www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/norway/lofoten/area/952600152
Hard move at the start and a small chimney - Råna (pitch 4 - 4b/5.7)
Переглядів 2103 місяці тому
Hard move at the start and a small chimney - Råna (pitch 4 - 4b/5.7)
Sketchy tree belay and hard route finding - Råna (pitch 3 - 4b/5.7)
Переглядів 2773 місяці тому
Sketchy tree belay and hard route finding - Råna (pitch 3 - 4b/5.7)
Climbing an EXPEDITION style route, one of Lofoten’s older CLASSICS - Råna (pitch 1&2 4a/5.6&3/5.4)
Переглядів 8144 місяці тому
Climbing an EXPEDITION style route, one of Lofoten’s older CLASSICS - Råna (pitch 1&2 4a/5.6&3/5.4)
Getting on top of the Big horn of The Goat - The last pitch of Forsida (pitch 5 - 5b / 5.9)
Переглядів 2744 місяці тому
Getting on top of the Big horn of The Goat - The last pitch of Forsida (pitch 5 - 5b / 5.9)
Climbing up the diagonal crack to the shoulder - Forsida (pitch 4 - 5a / 5.8)
Переглядів 4714 місяці тому
Climbing up the diagonal crack to the shoulder - Forsida (pitch 4 - 5a / 5.8)
Jamming through the cracks to a huge terrace "The Sofa", a super confy-stance - Forsida (pitch 3)
Переглядів 2264 місяці тому
Jamming through the cracks to a huge terrace "The Sofa", a super confy-stance - Forsida (pitch 3)
Climbing the BEST way up Svolværgeita, The Goat! - Forsida (pitches 1 & 2)
Переглядів 4365 місяців тому
Climbing the BEST way up Svolværgeita, The Goat! - Forsida (pitches 1 & 2)
Following the cracks to the top - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitches 4 & 5 - 4b / 5.5)
Переглядів 3835 місяців тому
Following the cracks to the top - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitches 4 & 5 - 4b / 5.5)
Scrambling up into a steep groove and nice jamming - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 3 - 4b / 5.5)
Переглядів 2565 місяців тому
Scrambling up into a steep groove and nice jamming - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 3 - 4b / 5.5)
Up the slab to a good ledge - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 2 - 4b / 5.5)
Переглядів 2785 місяців тому
Up the slab to a good ledge - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 2 - 4b / 5.5)
The BEST route on its grade in Lofoten! - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 1 - 4a / 5.4)
Переглядів 4475 місяців тому
The BEST route on its grade in Lofoten! - Pianohandler Lunds rute (pitch 1 - 4a / 5.4)
Past the roof to the top - The last pitch of Himmelen kan vente (pitch 9 - 6b / 5.10c)
Переглядів 3306 місяців тому
Past the roof to the top - The last pitch of Himmelen kan vente (pitch 9 - 6b / 5.10c)
Dropping gear on - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 8 - 6b / 5.10c)
Переглядів 5056 місяців тому
Dropping gear on - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 8 - 6b / 5.10c)
Scary traverse on slab - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 7 - 6b / 5.10c)
Переглядів 6266 місяців тому
Scary traverse on slab - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 7 - 6b / 5.10c)
A pleasant technical corner - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 6 - 6b / 5.10c)
Переглядів 3236 місяців тому
A pleasant technical corner - Himmelen kan vente (pitch 6 - 6b / 5.10c)
Absolute stunning climbing
That pitch was so sick!
Well done !!! 👍👍 Looks like very sustained climbing in that groove. Also one needs to take into account the exposed position, so excellent lead 👌 I like your channel a lot and regularly watch your videos. Greetings from South Africa. Heinrich
@@passionateclimber1501 thanks for your comment! Maybe the camera lies a little bit. That was actually quite slabby but still sustained. So nice to hear that! I hope you stay tuned for more.
Will definitely continue to follow your climbs 😃👍 I wondered where you are from, but then realised you are from Finland, is that correct? I am also a climber and occasionally I post my videos on UA-cam. Below is a link to one of my climbing videos: m.ua-cam.com/video/BZptJ-ZXiDE/v-deo.html Please feel free to let me know if you ever plan to visit South Africa. We have beautiful climbing here as well and I will be very privileged to climb here with you. Blessings, Heinrich
Two thumbs for that 👍👍 Yeah that's true. I'm from Finland. That looked like a nice climb! It definitely made me feel like going there. In that case I'll let you know!
Awesome 👍😃
Nice climbing 😊
Have you tried any big falls on these systems? I am always a bit afraid that the systems with teeth may brake my rope if a do a 2m fall on a crux
No I have not. That would not be good for the rope. But that should not be a problem because both devices follow up the rope while you climb, if you have enough weight on the ropes, so you don't have to take off any slack manually.
All your nuts coming off is exactly why I don’t use an oval with a clean nose for racking nuts. I go hook nose offset d. I don’t know how you can tell which way around the oval is
I used to have wire gate oval carabiners for nuts, but after dropping all my nuts a couple of times, I replaced those biners with solid gates. Have not been dripping the nuts anymore. I like the oval shaped more, because I find it easier to slide the nuts in the carabiner. I have not found that to be a problem to tell which side the gate opens, you'll see it. What happened in the video was my mistake. I accidentally pressed the gate while spinning the biner causing the nuts to come off.
The last travers pitch really gives you the 🖕, saying «you ain’t done until your done!» good vids - thanks for sharing
Definitely! But in a good way though! 😄 Thank you for watching.
So jealous! When we were there my wife was pregnant, so we only climbed the shorter routes on Lofoten 😅
The good thing is that the routes are not going anywhere. You can always come back.
How many meters is the ropes ?
I think they are 60m. Not my ropes so I'm not sure.
@@mkclimbing You are climbing pretty far between the belays, so i was wondering if it was longer. Me and a friend want's to climb this route this summer. I hope I can mange to grow some bigger balls and do it 🤣🤣
We simul-climbed the first three pitches, so that's why it looks like that. It was like 150m in total. There was like one harder part in the upper pitches, but the rest was relatively easy climbing. So no big balls needed 😂
@@mkclimbing so the ''crux'' is in pitch 12 right? -the route in general and the crux is not hard for the grade?
Pardon a potentially stupid question, but why do you lead with two ropes? I've only seen this when you have 2 followers
Hi. Not a stupid question at all. Those are called half ropes. They are commonly used in trad multi-pitch climbing and alpine climbing. Usually in trad climbing, you cannot place the pros in one straight line (except if it is a single crack all the way up). The idea is to always clip the other rope on the left side and the other rope on the right side to reduce rope drag. You can find more info for example here: www.vdiffclimbing.com/half-ropes/
@@mkclimbing Thanks! This was very helpful and I learned something new!
You used a micro traction on one of the placements. I've not seen that before. Can you please tell me more about why? Or point me in the direction where I could learn more?
Hi. That's used for simul climbing, so if the second falls, he won't pull the leader down. Probably I should have used two actually, because there's two ropes.
You should not extend it, it will follow the rope up when you climb. If your follower falls you will get his weight on you and potetially get pulled off. Which is what the micro is there to prevent. Same goes for ropestretch when you climb with doubles. Simuel is fun and safe when done right, this is not it😅 Brent Berghahn has a greate article on the subject.
Thanks for the piece of advice!
@@mkclimbingkeep crushing👍
I also run with two ropes like you. I'm trying the Taz Luv 3 as a primary and Shunt as the back up. Both go up smoothly and have the benefit that when you want to descend you don't need to change anything - i.e. they both have a descend operation. Means you can easily go up and down hard sections and removes the slight risk associated with changing devices.
I have been thinking about buying Taz LOV just for that reason. It's sometimes frustrating if you're projecting one section of the route and you need to change the device to lower yourself. However, I'd reconsider using Shunt as a backup device as it's said not to be suitable for self belaying by Petzl.
This is the optimal setup! I think you can climb quite hard with it as well. However, it is a bit costly.
Vi havnet på villspor i tåka der for mange mange år siden (1996?). Når du står på tredje båndet og ser noen meter til venstre for innsteget på ruta så går det et rakt riss opp i et "mini" dieder. Fantastisk klatring men temmelig vedvarende første taulengde slik jeg husker det. Når du klatrer, hvis du kunne hevet hodet og sett oppover så langt som mulig av og till ville vært gull. Da får vi se mer av hvor du skal og hvordan formasjonen ser ut. Selvsagt en avveining av egen klatreopplevelse og hvor høyt en skal prioritere filmingen :-)
Thank you for your comment! I could try to look more up while climbing. It's just easy to forget because the camera is tilted quite down, so I have to really tilt my neck back to get the whole route in the picture.
@@mkclimbing It would add some good scenes and probably be popular with the viewers as it shows more of the experience it is to climb a real face :-)
That's true!
💕Wow💛💜💜💜💛💜💜💜💜
What features in the rock beautiful
You're absolutely right about that!
8:35 How tall are you? I need to know if I will be able to reach that clip. 😊
I'm 171cm (5'8").
Did you do the jump?
No I didn't. They say that the gap used to be tighter between the "horns", and nowadays the jump is not recommended.
@@mkclimbing Did you cross the gap by some other means or did you rappel directly from the big horn? I was there in the early 2000s and the gap indeed was narrower then. The jump was still a bit exciting because of the incline of the big horn and I was also worried that I may overshoot the jump and fell of of the little horn, but it was then quite easy actually. My friend led the last pitch and was belaying on the little horn. Thanks for making the videos! I have already watched several of them and have enjoyed them a lot.
We rappelled straight from the big horn, so no need to do the jump. I'm happy to hear that you enjoy watching my videos. That really means a lot to me.
Cool! Do you use offset cams often - 5:05? I bought a couple of offset cams for testing the other day, (🤓) but I have not climbed on them yet. I feel they could come in handy in Norwegian cracks, but curious if I should carry them on every climb.
Not that often. Actually I don't have any, that offset was my friend's. I'm thinking about buying some. They sure come in handy in many situations and climbs. I would carry those on a multi-pitch especially if I knew the route is not easily protected.
Thank you for making these videos! I really appreciate following your different climbs while waiting for the outdoor climbing season - pitch for pitch. The videos seem pretty much "uncut" - making it possible to really follow along. Normally everybody keeps over-editing climbing videos - which I find annoying😆 I especially like how you include everything in the videos - including the process of how you choose and place gear, and setting up belay stations - sometimes changing your mind, and going for another placement or piece👋 ..and all this without any annoying "cool" music in the background🥳 Pure climbing noises, together with what I guess is the occasional Finnish swearword or comment-to-self while climbing😃 Cudos from Norway to my favorite climbing channel💪
Thanks @tomemick, you're welcome! I really appreciate your comment! My idea is to try to share the climbing experience as a whole including all the struggles and anchor buildings, and that means editing them as little as possible. I'll try to filter out the worst coursing and 10 minutes of the same pro placings though 😂. Nice to hear that there are people that like it that way too. The sound of the tinkling gear is the best music.
Nice!! @@mkclimbing
Nice videos!!
Thanks!
💪💪💪
Great climbing! Thanks for sharing your expirience with us!
Thank you for your comment! I'm glad to share my climbing adventures with you!
Really enjoy watching you lead climb! Are there pitches past this point? Also, I noticed your anchor is just one sling, it is technically not redundant, correct? It looks safe, but still
Thank you for your comment. There's one pitch left. Well you're correct. That anchor ain't redundant, in the sense that there's only one sling, but it's still an acceptable way to make an anchor. You just want to be sure that the rock that you put the sling over does not have any sharp edges.
Cool climb
What size can did you use?
If you mean cam, I used 0.4 dm dragonfly which is like a bit smaller than bd cam. Also placed one .75 z, but only because I didn't see the bolt right next to it.
Not sure if you're looking for pointers, but you can keep that bartack on the anchor sling out of the way by cloving the sling to the top carabiner. Also, you could use the two carabiners from the alpine draw on both of the top two nuts, saving yourself the quickdraw you used in the anchor.
Good points! I'd definitely do that if I had only one quickdraw left or I know that the next pitch is super long.
Nice! Good to see your anchor building process in this one too. Keep sending!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment.
Great video, and it looks like an amazing route. One question though. The 4th gear placement, 4 minutes in. It's a cam with green carabiner. It didn't look like a good placement. Is that just the weird perspective of the GoPro or is there something else about the placement I'm missing? I'm not criticising, I love watching your videos because I get to learn from someone more experienced. Saw it and felt I was missing something.
Thank you for your comment! Sometimes it looks like some placement is not good on the video, even tought it is, but this is not the case. You're right, that's not a good placement, but I think it wasn't terrible either, becuse othervise I probably wouldn't have left it like that. I guess I was getting a bit pumped already so I decided to leave it and keep going.
all the best bro what you are doing is your wórk good jób mañ grow
the same happened to me in 2022, I was expecting a 5b but I kept falling. thank god I didn't lead that pitch. afterward somebody told me that the original pitch (5b) is more on the left. what do you think about the grade? I think 6b
If I remember correctly, we climbed the most left line there. There was at least one parallel line on the right side. I'd say it's 6b. On 27 Crags it's graded 6b+.
Nice pitch, the rock looks amazing
That crux looked insane! Awesome climb :)
👍
10:17 "I'm blind" 😂
It was right there but I didn't see it 😄
I have seen better holding cams.....
Had my hands dripping sweat here
Yeah man I definitely didn't want to fall on that pitch.
Bro, Almost all your placements are overcamed. You chose too big.
I prefer a bit overcammed over undercammed. One size smaller would have propably been too undercammed by my standards. But yeah I get what you mean. The size of this crack just felt to be so in between two sizes.
Overcammed? Are you for real?
Great vid from a great pitch! That's got to be one of the best 5a´s in the world?
Thank you! Yeah that pitch is so sick! Must be one of the best in its grade.
This looked like an awesome pitch! I've been watching all your Lofoten videos, I think I might have to sort a trip there soon :)
Thank you so much! I can highly recommend that! There is so much to climb and awesome routes.
I’m pretty new to trad. At 4:00, is that placement considered good enough? My understanding is it’s quite over cammed. Was it a case of ‘that’s all I had that would fit’, or is over camming acceptable to take a fall? Thanks
Hi good question. I personally prefer over camming over under camming. I think .75 would have been too under camming for that place. I also try not to use all the same size cams if possible, like here the previous pro was a .75 cam. (I had a double rack)
Great vid! I noticed you went up the whole corner instead of turning right a few meters above the old, grey sling. What do you think the grade is when climbing the corner all the way up?
Thanks! Yeah I think I should have escaped from the groove earlier. It definitely felt harder the way I did it, maybe like 6a or something.
That was pretty run out at 16 minutes! Awesome video, loving this series!
Yeah that traverse was so scary! Thank you so much!
Maybe don't post on social media until you have the system dialed in, lest someone inexperienced gets the wrong idea that it's easy. Also, why do none of these videos show redirecting the line with draws or cans, or protecting edges with rope pro. This is where people will go wrong trying to imitate what they see on UA-cam.
Hi. Good that you mentioned... This is not an instructional video as said in the video description. This video is about my first experience of TRS as said in the title of the video.
7 minutes in and I’m routing for that number 4 walnut. So far it’s almost been placed 3 times but a 3 and a 5 won. Edit: Ah wait there was a 4 earlier. Just doubles
Haha yeah I had to check the video again and you're right! You really paid attention. I found those smaller nuts very useful on that route.
Two things. This wind is disturbing (like on runway). Question: why are you using hand ascender as chest ascending device? You could use something much smaller.
Hi. Good question. I like the ascender as a primary belaying device because you don't have to use any extension like a dogbone or sling to connect it to the belay loop.
I previously used a left-handed ascender too, and I liked it for the same reason as you do. You don't need an extension from your harness (because the handle serves that purpose) and it works great with a chest harness because of the top hole for a carabiner. It worked perfectly when using a single rope and two devices. But sometimes when using two ropes, the other rope would get jammed/caught in the cam on the open side of the ascender. Usually it wasn't a big deal because it didn't get stuck hard and I could just pull it out instantly. But it tended to happen in overhanging situations when I needed to climb quickly and it was annoying to make the extra move to free the rope. I had already decided I was going to switch it out for a Micro Traxion but made the commitment after the rope got caught when I needed to make a deadpoint and then a couple of hard moves and I couldn't get a hand free to fix it. Now I use a CT Rollnlock and a Micro Traxion. I might switch to two Micro Traxions. PS: I didn't find the sound of the wind to be bothersome at all.
That sounds interesting. I have never had that problem. Maybe it's because my ascender is right handed. 🤔 Or maybe I just have not done that much TRS on overhang. PS. Actually that's not wind. The sound comes from a highway. But anyway I'm happy that it didn't bother you. 😄
Awesome video man. Love the content - looks like a great climb.
Thanks man! I appreciate it.
Beautiful 😊
Nice climb!
Great video, that run out at the top looked scary!
Thanks! It was relatively easy climbing so it didn't feel scary though. 😄
:)
Trad + crack climbing - what could be better? Maybe adding a bit of slab XD
That's right! Climbing at its best.