Відео

@@dhooter No

@m.3591 I almost think they may be shipping from different parts of the country. Every once in a while, something comes through nice. I ordered a couple of things from Amazon a couple of weeks back, and they came in two different boxes, both fullfilled by MidwayUSA. The one in an Amazon outter box was in great condition. The one that arrived in a bubble pack envelope was not handled well. It was an RCBS seating die stem. You know, with a bunch of exposed threads that you would like to see protected. It had eaten its way through the plastic retail hanging sleeve that RCBS uses and most of the way through the bubble envelope.

I didn't find much not to like either. I'm not big on having squishy think recoil pads. I prefer a firm rubber grippy but butt plate. The .257 just doesn't have much recoil at all. My 300 win mag SAKO does have recoil with heavy loads, and its recoil pad is nice to have.

The printing on the box contradicts the manual, too. I believe since the recoil lug at the front is what maintains accuracy, that is, the screw to torque first. You want that recoil lug seated and against the stock, not floating in the air. I also don't torque any rifle base plate screw past 35 unless it is bedded in aluminum or on aluminum pillars. Wood stocks and most composites are fine at 35 and won't really come loose unless you subject it to regular thermal changes. I have checked the screw several times and have never found the loose. I also have a .257 in a wood stock and check those screws regularly with no issues of them being loose. Now, I have checked other people's rifles and have found various states of tightness, but that is usually people who don't have a torque driver and just snug the screws. When I am helping another person get their screws torqued correctly, I set my torque driver at like 30 and then let them feel how much more snug that is than what they had them at, then I dial it up to 35. Seems like most of the loose "snugged" screws I have encountered on people rifles have not been much more than 20. Some people actually say they never thought about torquing the screws.

I have been looking at ordering a Mark V High Country in either 28 Nosler or maybe 7 PRC. I handload all my own ammo, so expense is really too much a concern.

I have called them up to complain, so maybe they are doing vetter now. They just haven't been 100% like Grafs.

X-bolts are nice rifles, I looked into them and Winchester before the 307. The limiting factor for me was the weight. I almost didn't get the 307 because of the weight. I wanted something a little lighter with the optic, but also, it was affordable and available. Currently, I'm looking at ordering up a Mark V High Country in 28 Nosler. I did look for a moment at the 7mm PRC but would have to pretty much get a custom length barrel to get the performance I want. Weatherby makes their 28 Nosler Mark V barrels 26" long with a 1:8 twist, so just like your X-bolt in 280AI, you can take advantage of high BC bullets. Since I handload, I can reduce load the 28 down to 3,000 psi like the 7mm PRC was supposed to be or load it normal. For some reason, in my area, 28 Nosler brass is on the shelves, but 7 PRC is not. I did look into 280AI because I have bunches of 30-06 brass that I can convert but also looking into a custom 25-06 barrel with fast twist. When I first got my other 257 Sporter, I just used reshaped 7mm Rem Mag brass, works pretty good in a pinch.

I have shot both the 117 grain pointed Interlock and SST with no issues. Remember, the 257 was invented in 1945, and pretty much all they had were them low-tech bullets back then. I have not tried the 117 round nose only because the BC is so miserable that you would really need to crank in the elevation to get them past 200 yards.

Hopefully, this weekend. I was at the range the other day getting chronograph numbers off some friends ammo he reloaded, spent most of the day light we had doing that. I ordered some bigger grid pattern splatter targets that should be here before the weekend. I'm hoping to use them at 100, 200 and maybe 300. They recently installed a place to hang a paper target near the steel at 300 because the other had been shot out.

@@Backin_Theday right on

That is great information. Thank you for sharing that. It is also good information for beginners out there who do not realize the value of a decent crimp. The extra millisecond of burn allows the powder to get going well before bullet release. I have factory crimp dies for all my cartridges that Lee makes them for, and it really helps make velocity consistent and groups small. H1000 is not so easy to come by here in the Pacific Northwest. I'm not sure why, but it seems that way. Was playing with some generic Prvi 100 grain bullets the other day using Magpro and LRT near max but not max and was seeing velocities around 3,600 fps and no signs of pressure I'm not sure why, yet those particular bullets were traveling so fast. I plan on investigating more this weekend. I am also messing with some Nosler 110 grain AccuBond at max charges of RL22 because I don't have 7828 or RL25, and I hope to see velocities near 3,500 fps. I am currently using a Competition Electronics chronograph as my ancient Shooting Chrony finally started giving me issues.

@@Backin_Theday if you are close to Coeur d' Alene Idaho, the Black sheep has H 1000, at least as of Dec 13th. I stocked up on ALL components before the Vista Outdoors takeover of the industry and ultimate price spikes on powder, primers, brass and reloading equipment. It will be a cold dark day in hell when I will have to pay these pimps prices for my hunting ammo for the rest of my life. Properly stored, I hope it outlasts me! I'm 59 now, and havent had to buy components for 5yrs now.

I noticed you also mention the 9.3x62. I shot my elk last season using the 250 gr TTSX, to say the least it was total lights out on a 5x6 bugling bull @ 300 lasered yds. Shot it mid shoulder and he went maybe 5 steps and tipped over! Also, 2 yrs ago I shot a big cow elk @ 200yds using the 250 gr Accubond just behind the shoulder. The Accubond had more expansion with a larger exit hole and much more meat damage. Both are world class killers, but I'm siding with the Barnes as the results were the same without the Accubonds damage My 9.3x62 is a m 111 Savage re-chambered from 30-06 by Jes Reboring in Cresswell OR. Shoots both the above loads sub moa. For plinking I use 270gr hot-cors for the same accuracy results.

Sweet groups, thank you for sharing the information with other 257 enthusiasts. I added a second 257 Weatherby to my flock the other day but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet.

I'm really liking this M307, and it shoots very nice. I laughed when I opened the box and saw I ended up with serial number 42. According to Weatherby they have been producing and shipping to the distributor and then the distributor held on to them until they had enough stock piled to meet demand at a release event, so even though I ordered mine late it was still possible to end up with a low first year production number.

Stay clear of all Weatherby guns they won't honor the warranty's.

@@lurebenson7722 really? I'm guessing you've had some experience with them. I will probably wait on the ruger american gen II in 7 prc next year then

@@eltrance915 5 Weatherby Mark 5 bought, and all had defects, and all shot badly. I now build my own AR 10s in WSM magnums and have one in 375 - 300 WSM

@@eltrance915 Before you go buying a rifle in these new cartridges you better wait and see if the ammo isn't going obsolete like many other of these new cartridges have gone - you can't make 7 mm PRC from any other cartridges for reloading

I've been interested in Hammer bullets as of late. Haven't researched any load data yet, but any info you can supply pertaining to .257 Wby would be greatly appreciated!

@@Drivapete I have a few videos on my channel about using the Hammer bullets. There is also load data here docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cH73UdCGSyUIPEwtXrDAAW4VZ1D92j9ANEHrozZr04c/edit#gid=2053207098

It worked out pretty good. I didn't have stick on targets that day so I just sketched something on the jug. Water filled milk jugs is good inexpensive fun.