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DBNWoodland
United States
Приєднався 26 гру 2013
Free videos to educate the public in maintaining musical instruments.
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Переглядів: 51
Відео
Installing a Bridge Doctor on a 12-String
Переглядів 9 тис.2 роки тому
Installing a Bridge Doctor on a 12-String
Bajo Quinto Setup
Переглядів 1 тис.2 роки тому
Lowering the action on this Bajo Quinto. The neck pitch angle looks ok and so does the saddle height. The nut height is ridiculous and is throwing off all of my other measurements. The goal is 20 thousandths at the nut and 70-80 thousandths at the 12th fret.
Fishman Infinity blend installation
Переглядів 3,6 тис.2 роки тому
Fishman Infinity blend installation
Restoring back to playing condition a Gibson J45ADJ
Переглядів 392 роки тому
Restoring back to playing condition a Gibson J45ADJ
Stainless Steel Refret, Gibson Les Paul Custom
Переглядів 9 тис.4 роки тому
Stainless Steel Refret, Gibson Les Paul Custom
When was the last time you had your instrument cleaned?
Переглядів 2024 роки тому
When was the last time you had your instrument cleaned?
How much was this repair?
It is almost as if Taylor was expecting this. I recently bought one of their cheaper models (used) and it has the same problem. I have found the shims kinda hard to come by, so I'll have to pay.
1/4" transfer punch would have saved a lot of time.
Great video. I have a Martin 000-15m that is clearing the bridge with a straight edge in between the d and g string but is hitting very slightly in between the e and a and b and e. Would that need a neck reset or are the radius any different between these models? Would really appreciate any information. Thank you
obnoxious music and no over-talk at all to explain what to do...
Why make a video if you don't want to share? WOW
Great video! I have the same issue with my 314ce. Thanks for sharing.
I thought when you adjust neck tension you need to wait 24 hours to remeasure
11/52 is crazy it should be 10/47’s
I use 11 52’s but 10 47s on my 6 string I personally like the 11s more
Why do I need to do the neck reset to bring down the action when all I need to do is sanding down the saddle?
I just did as far as one could while retaining no fret buzz. It still needs an adjustment. It is a, less expensive model. 110e
nothing like a clarinet full of dried cheetoo gunk/years of lunch residoooo
After watching ypur video, I'm even more mad. I would never buy a Taylor. Cant be a member of the club. And you can share the information. You're not a robot! Good video, bad Taylor. 👎
Oh and Taylor wont sent me the shims. That pissed me off. I cant spend 1500 on a class to be in the club. I fix ny own stuff and do it for free for people i know. Its upsetting to me.
I hate ebony. My first partial refret, I thought i released the tension on the frets but the tearout on my first refret was insane. I guess i need to learn some more techniques. I know i dont want the guitar neck to be crunching the frets. I was able to fill the damage but that was scary.
Just called Taylor today for some shims for my new guitar. Asked them if me replacing the shims would void the warranty. They said it would not unless I damaged the guitar while doing it. Sent them the current shim sizes and the current E/e string height at 12th fret. My shims will arrive in a few days. This isn't rocket science. Taylor makes this pretty simple.
Take take away is, save your money and get an Olson guitar instead.
I had to use the Thompson belly reducer on an old 12 string and then install the bridge doctor. It all went well and there wasnt any other reasonable answer. The tone and volume where completely different afterwards. But no other choice at that point.
Did it “ruin” the original sound? Just from my basic physics 101 I would imagine that the top is being stiffened/dampened by the pressure of the dowel and block pressing on the bridge. so not as much free floating vibration of the top? I have a 1982 modern HD 28 that has a pretty high bulge and I don’t want to spend a lot of money getting a neck reset or having the bulge press down which invariably will probably come back up again once I tune it up to full tension I’m going to give this one a try with the pin method so I don’t have to drill a hole into the bridge.
Did you have to bike those clamps specifically for the guitar? Or are they just generic clamps that you can buy from Harbor freight?
@@edyue1 bought at Stew Mac, and on Amazon
@@edyue1 the bridge doctor added more volume, sustain, and equalized or tempered the tone evenly in bass , mids and treble. Kinda flat e.q.
Thompson belly reducer is only a temporary solution, the lid will deform again without an adjustment screw like the bridge doctor.
Yep, Can't watch this.stupid background music has rendered it UNWATCHABLE 🤷🖕
Background music on videos with NARRATION 🤷..very Amateur 😞
Useless at that speed. What's the point ?
18:10 The 6 digit difference between each shim is not a confidential number. Taylor regularly shares this with their customers. To keep the shims balance they always need to maintain a 6 digit difference. Exp (18 / 12) or (24 / 18) etc
I took my 40 year old Courtois flugelhorn in for an ultrasound clean, and they gave me back what looked and played like a brand new instrument! I was massively impressed.
ehm. This video should be called how to prevent replacement of the fingerboard in the future with the chemical glue.... Everything demonstrated in this video was a perfect example of all possible mistakes one can make. You dont wan't to plane like this, you don't want to scrap the neck like this, you don't want to use chemical glue, you really want to measure fingerboard geometry and possibly fix it before gluing it back on the instrument and you want to double check the fingerboard is at right angle, height and perfectly aligned so it is not running on the left or right side.
how much does this modification cost i need one i just bought my first 12 string and i heard this is essential if you have all unisons??
Depends what your local tech will charge for the install and which version of bridge doctor your guitar requires. Ballpark between 2-400
Bridge doctor costs around $25. You can set it yourself or have a luthier do this.
Did you use super glue on the pearl inlay for it to cover the screw?
I believe I did.
@@dbnwoodland good to know thank u
Thanks for video my 50yr old Epiphone belly bowed a lot, needs sorting, what would be the costs for repair only one big problem I live in the UK, and do you think it will work.
Both of those are difficult questions to answer I’m afraid. I don’t know what a technician in your area would charge, everyone has their own price and without seeing the guitar I cannot definitively say it would work. It’s a great tool and I personally have had success with it. Hopefully there is someone in your area with the experience to help you. Good luck.
NO WATER ON THE CORRRRKKK
Save binding nibs
Ditto to the other posts. No help. And I've almost choked a guitar player or two for using my fret pulling pliers to cut strings, LOL!
I just had this done on my second hand (but as new condition) Taylor 210CE. It changed it from ok guitar to the guitar of my dreams with low action like an electric. In NZ Taylor won’t sell the shims to a non Taylor Tech. It cost me $150 (that was with discount) to get it done. The only thing is NZ is humid so we sit with humidity of 60%. When I first took the guitar in complaining about the action, their standard “non-Taylor” luthier said to sand the saddle. I had taken it to my tech who is not a Taylor Tech and he told me to take it to the Taylor dealer but under no circumstances to let them sand the saddle. He said he could have done the repair but he could not purchase the shims as he was not the Taylor dealer and they would not sell the shims to him. I had to fight tooth and nail with the guitar shop and insisted that they don’t sand the saddle. In the end I got what I wanted and now it’s perfect. The point of all of this is the same as the video, do not let a luthier/guitar tech sand the saddle, they are preset. Only a neck reset/shim change will do it.
Was there a crack between the neck bushings? I have seen other techs point this out to me.
Top notch video
Super informative video!
No reason for the tapered reamer, no info about how much you have to sand off the bottom of your saddle because the under saddle pickup heightens the action. Worthless video.
More of a pain than a asset ... I can take a martin mortise and tenon and simply release the glue on the fretboard extension.. unbolt it and instead of all that on and off bolting and unbolting .. you run your sandpaper on each side until its where you want it.. . May have to steam it a little ... but the main advantage is you dont have to buy special shims and when your done .. your done ...no "secret" shim settings ... Ha. .. I realize he's a tech for Taylor... and I also know you can sand those shims and add to or recut the top shims to change the angle . Hell your only talking thousands here .. But I prefer the dovetail for sound quality... not to impressed with Taylor's sound transfer.. I like his neck straightening portion... I also agree with his .080 on the Bass string for two reasons , it's easier to play and it will gain you more time before the next reset... Bluegrass pickers and other players with a heavy attack when playing don't want less than .90 and some even like .95 to .110 . AND they use pretty heavy strings to boot..
Another no vocal instruction video.
What about using lighter gauge strings 10s or 11s. Will that affect the warranty?
Good question. My 214 CE came with 12-53 strings on it, and I stuck with the 12's for about 6 months hoping I would get used to them, but I didn't. I switched to 11's and it made a real difference. Like you said, I hope that does not void the warranty.
When adding tension to the truss rod (to bend it backward, against string tension), I like to reduce string tension first (1/2 turn or so), to reduce stress to the truss rod threads/cap, then re-tune up to pitch, then check where the straightedge falls on the bridge. This video checked the angle after not one, but two, truss rod tightenings that were already done against full string tension, which means the neck was potentially more biased to the front (pulled that way by now-excess string tension), making the straightedge test less accurate, compared to normal string tension's impact on where the straightedge lands..
I see all these videos of resetting Taylor guitar necks. Don't anyone understand why? It is because they need resetting every couple years or so and after a while they are sawdust. I bought one Taylor and it is the last. I am used to nice guitars you can actually use more than a few years without having to do a neck reset. It should tell you something. Taylor won't even let you purchase the shims! They only service new guitars and if you are not the original buyer, they couldn't care less. Stick with a Martin or Gibson etc... because even their cheapest are far better and will not leave you hanging in limbo with an unfixable piece of Taylor junk..
Gotta say, your comment's not at all accurate in my Taylor's case. I've owned my '14 for nearly 10 years now (original owner), and E string action never budged from 5/64 (Taylor's factory spec), until this year when it appears to have creeped up to 5.5/64, so I'm about to reshim mine for the first time (to bring it down to my preferred 4/64). There are tons of original early-days Taylors from the 1990s going strong, so definitely not sawdust. As for Taylor not letting you purchase shims, you're wrong there, too. They'll send you a set for free, or sell you a kit w/multiple shims for $49. Just send an email their customer service and see for yourself. They will want to make sure you know which end of the wrench to use, because they don't want a warranty claim from an amateur's mistake, but the hurdle's not high.
Don't know about US but in Europe if you contact the Netherlands customer services and give them the height of the action and the height you want it to be together with the numbers on the current shims (you need to remove the neck for this) they will do a calculation and send you the shims you need. They actually offered this to me and I have heard of others getting the same. Having said that I declined their offer because I think my issue is just not that simple (too involved to go into here) Anyway I would not buy another Taylor, my 314ce has been troublesome since the day I bought it brand new online around 4/5 years ago and a Luthier they sent me to gave a very bad experience.
All unisons? You obviously don't play 12-string. Should be octave strings for G-D-A-E and unisons for B and high E.
This is for a different style of music…it’s not meant to be standard. That’s why I’m installing the bridge doctor to compensate for the increased tension.
Did you even watch the video
Yes.@@ren9756
Watch the video first, thats why it was done, because it was going to be all unisons.
What if you’re not in need of a neck reset per se, but just want a lower action. Would Taylor approve that as free? If not, or if you’re not the original owner, it seems like it would be quite expensive compared to just having the saddle shaved. Great and informative video btw.
Just email Taylor. Take off the neck and you’ll see the shims. Give them both numbers and then the height of the bridge saddle. As well as the height at 12th fret. Also where you would like to be in regards to height. Then they’ll send you some shims. Easy!!!
A bolt-on neck is logically what all acoustic guitars should have. My glued on neck needs the same reset this one did, so I'll look elsewhere for how to do that - or just cut it off and make it a bolt on. ;-)
An important ommission was not showing the third bolt remove and instal under the FB
20 minutes for "before and after" video??. All done "off camera" and 20 min of demagogy.
True.
I feel like the only bit you didn't show was the actual installation 😂😂😂
100th comment!
Thank you. Great informative video broken down well for someone with basic skills and commonsense. Can I make one suggestion please. For those of us outside U.S, could we have tolerances in metric please. Fractions are not familiar anymore. Thank you.
Easy enough to do the conversions.
Thank you for this video. This is for me a second confirmation, beside the string height, that my Taylor needs a neck reset. Unfortunately I didn't receive a good guitar as it was out of the box in that state.
Instalation guide? Me arse....
Guide? Not at all.
Bridge doctor on a Taylor 12 string???? Thoughts??
What model? Most Taylor’s I would say no because older models are like Swiss cheese. Too many holes and adding another one concerns me. Newer ones I’ve seen double up strings but likely have the ES2 system. The electronics would likely get in the way of the counter mechanism the bridge doctor uses. So you’re limited. If you have a more modern model that does not have an ES2, you should be fine. You could always add a piezo element if you need electronics. My two cents without taking specific measurements.
It’s a Taylor 250CE DLX BLK I got it a few months ago
I want to clarify my thoughts from my first response. First: when I say double up strings, I’m referring to two strings going into the same bridge pin and slot. So there would be 6 bridge pins on a 12 string guitar. Second: when I’m talking about the older model of Taylor with more holes and I’m concerned, part of my concern is the thickness of the bridge and internal bridge plate. Taylor bridges are not particularly thick compared to other manufacturers. Good thing for tone in my opinion but that’s subjective. It’s a gut call by the technician doing the installation. Does that individual believe there is enough material to survive the modifications and serve the player for years to come. My opinion, I’m not sure and I don’t like to gamble with other people’s guitars. It would probably be fine. Wish I could be more help. If I install one on a Taylor I’ll try to put up a video with my updated thoughts.
To much talk about the hole and not the installation of the bridge dr.also you didn't install the correct brass bridge Dr.
@@jimking9338 No, this was the correct version. The brass version is intended for alternate styles of bridges. The “counter” in the standard system fit right under the saddle and the distance for the inserted screw and pearl fit well behind the bridge pins.