Відео

nothing like a clarinet full of dried cheetoo gunk/years of lunch residoooo

After watching ypur video, I'm even more mad. I would never buy a Taylor. Cant be a member of the club. And you can share the information. You're not a robot! Good video, bad Taylor. 👎

Oh and Taylor wont sent me the shims. That pissed me off. I cant spend 1500 on a class to be in the club. I fix ny own stuff and do it for free for people i know. Its upsetting to me.

I hate ebony. My first partial refret, I thought i released the tension on the frets but the tearout on my first refret was insane. I guess i need to learn some more techniques. I know i dont want the guitar neck to be crunching the frets. I was able to fill the damage but that was scary.

Just called Taylor today for some shims for my new guitar. Asked them if me replacing the shims would void the warranty. They said it would not unless I damaged the guitar while doing it. Sent them the current shim sizes and the current E/e string height at 12th fret. My shims will arrive in a few days. This isn't rocket science. Taylor makes this pretty simple.

Take take away is, save your money and get an Olson guitar instead.

I had to use the Thompson belly reducer on an old 12 string and then install the bridge doctor. It all went well and there wasnt any other reasonable answer. The tone and volume where completely different afterwards. But no other choice at that point.

Yep, Can't watch this.stupid background music has rendered it UNWATCHABLE 🤷🖕

Background music on videos with NARRATION 🤷..very Amateur 😞

Useless at that speed. What's the point ?

18:10 The 6 digit difference between each shim is not a confidential number. Taylor regularly shares this with their customers. To keep the shims balance they always need to maintain a 6 digit difference. Exp (18 / 12) or (24 / 18) etc

I took my 40 year old Courtois flugelhorn in for an ultrasound clean, and they gave me back what looked and played like a brand new instrument! I was massively impressed.

ehm. This video should be called how to prevent replacement of the fingerboard in the future with the chemical glue.... Everything demonstrated in this video was a perfect example of all possible mistakes one can make. You dont wan't to plane like this, you don't want to scrap the neck like this, you don't want to use chemical glue, you really want to measure fingerboard geometry and possibly fix it before gluing it back on the instrument and you want to double check the fingerboard is at right angle, height and perfectly aligned so it is not running on the left or right side.

how much does this modification cost i need one i just bought my first 12 string and i heard this is essential if you have all unisons??

Did you use super glue on the pearl inlay for it to cover the screw?

Thanks for video my 50yr old Epiphone belly bowed a lot, needs sorting, what would be the costs for repair only one big problem I live in the UK, and do you think it will work.

NO WATER ON THE CORRRRKKK

Good stuff! Just subscribed thanks

Save binding nibs

Ditto to the other posts. No help. And I've almost choked a guitar player or two for using my fret pulling pliers to cut strings, LOL!

I just had this done on my second hand (but as new condition) Taylor 210CE. It changed it from ok guitar to the guitar of my dreams with low action like an electric. In NZ Taylor won’t sell the shims to a non Taylor Tech. It cost me $150 (that was with discount) to get it done. The only thing is NZ is humid so we sit with humidity of 60%. When I first took the guitar in complaining about the action, their standard “non-Taylor” luthier said to sand the saddle. I had taken it to my tech who is not a Taylor Tech and he told me to take it to the Taylor dealer but under no circumstances to let them sand the saddle. He said he could have done the repair but he could not purchase the shims as he was not the Taylor dealer and they would not sell the shims to him. I had to fight tooth and nail with the guitar shop and insisted that they don’t sand the saddle. In the end I got what I wanted and now it’s perfect. The point of all of this is the same as the video, do not let a luthier/guitar tech sand the saddle, they are preset. Only a neck reset/shim change will do it.

Was there a crack between the neck bushings? I have seen other techs point this out to me.

Top notch video

Super informative video!

No reason for the tapered reamer, no info about how much you have to sand off the bottom of your saddle because the under saddle pickup heightens the action. Worthless video.

More of a pain than a asset ... I can take a martin mortise and tenon and simply release the glue on the fretboard extension.. unbolt it and instead of all that on and off bolting and unbolting .. you run your sandpaper on each side until its where you want it.. . May have to steam it a little ... but the main advantage is you dont have to buy special shims and when your done .. your done ...no "secret" shim settings ... Ha. .. I realize he's a tech for Taylor... and I also know you can sand those shims and add to or recut the top shims to change the angle . Hell your only talking thousands here .. But I prefer the dovetail for sound quality... not to impressed with Taylor's sound transfer.. I like his neck straightening portion... I also agree with his .080 on the Bass string for two reasons , it's easier to play and it will gain you more time before the next reset... Bluegrass pickers and other players with a heavy attack when playing don't want less than .90 and some even like .95 to .110 . AND they use pretty heavy strings to boot..

Another no vocal instruction video.

What about using lighter gauge strings 10s or 11s. Will that affect the warranty?

When adding tension to the truss rod (to bend it backward, against string tension), I like to reduce string tension first (1/2 turn or so), to reduce stress to the truss rod threads/cap, then re-tune up to pitch, then check where the straightedge falls on the bridge. This video checked the angle after not one, but two, truss rod tightenings that were already done against full string tension, which means the neck was potentially more biased to the front (pulled that way by now-excess string tension), making the straightedge test less accurate, compared to normal string tension's impact on where the straightedge lands..

I see all these videos of resetting Taylor guitar necks. Don't anyone understand why? It is because they need resetting every couple years or so and after a while they are sawdust. I bought one Taylor and it is the last. I am used to nice guitars you can actually use more than a few years without having to do a neck reset. It should tell you something. Taylor won't even let you purchase the shims! They only service new guitars and if you are not the original buyer, they couldn't care less. Stick with a Martin or Gibson etc... because even their cheapest are far better and will not leave you hanging in limbo with an unfixable piece of Taylor junk..

All unisons? You obviously don't play 12-string. Should be octave strings for G-D-A-E and unisons for B and high E.

What if you’re not in need of a neck reset per se, but just want a lower action. Would Taylor approve that as free? If not, or if you’re not the original owner, it seems like it would be quite expensive compared to just having the saddle shaved. Great and informative video btw.

A bolt-on neck is logically what all acoustic guitars should have. My glued on neck needs the same reset this one did, so I'll look elsewhere for how to do that - or just cut it off and make it a bolt on. ;-)

An important ommission was not showing the third bolt remove and instal under the FB

20 minutes for "before and after" video??. All done "off camera" and 20 min of demagogy.

I feel like the only bit you didn't show was the actual installation 😂😂😂

100th comment!

Thank you. Great informative video broken down well for someone with basic skills and commonsense. Can I make one suggestion please. For those of us outside U.S, could we have tolerances in metric please. Fractions are not familiar anymore. Thank you.

Thank you for this video. This is for me a second confirmation, beside the string height, that my Taylor needs a neck reset. Unfortunately I didn't receive a good guitar as it was out of the box in that state.

Instalation guide? Me arse....

Bridge doctor on a Taylor 12 string???? Thoughts??

Excellent detailed video of your process. I have a Taylor 314ce that's 8 or 9 years old and holding steady. Love the sound and appearance of Sapele. I also noticed how great the sides of the guitar looked, more of a sheen than the satin finish. Did you treat the sides (and I assume the back also) or did the customer? I'd like to know what you (or he or she) used to get such a really nice appearance, if you can remember that far back.

All I wanted was to learn how to determine the shim increase. I already know how to remove a bolt.

First "how-to" video I ever watched where I learned absolutely nothing...

I would have liked to have seen the shim relationship explained better, as I think this is a repair that could be accomplished by those who may not be the original owners and are comfortable maintaining their own guitars.

You are not hydrating the wood with lemon oil. You would never want to hydrate a guitar fingerboard. Lemon oil doesn't contain any water. You can't hydrate something without applying water in some form to it. A more appropriate description would be oiling.

Dude. I still can not get the last couple of screws out. I have tried heat and oil and the back and fourth method you've used here. I'm just about ready to try to rip off the ball with the guide hole and put one back on. Any other suggestions before I do that? Or any suggestions for doing that safely?

where are you from?

Just learned that a neck reset is what I call shimming the neck.

Thank you.