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I’m a chinese, this is what we called ‘MADE IN CHINA’

I think GSO might have addressed this now. I could be wrong but I saw one recently and I believe it had that extended baffle.

This is not 100% true ... the mentioned "yellow ray" (@ 2:17) DO NOT exist in a closed tube! It can only happen in in truss tube RCs and even so it's easily solved with a shroud. All the other "yellow rays" are easily avoided with a dew shield that most alread use. Sorry, but this is a a storm in a teacup ...

Hey, where are more videos? Why are you not posting move videos?

Very interesting analysis, thanks! I am planning to buy a GSO RC8 Carbon and I don't know, since it's been two years, if this error has been corrected in the RC models currently sold. Do you have any updates on this? The information I have found so far is very conflicting, but I think the optical scheme with two hyperbolic mirrors is among the best. Since I do not have an observatory I thought of guiding with OAG and controlling the mount with an AsiAir. Do you think it is possible? Thank you for your attention, I have not found anyone who can give me some advice on this (I am little more than a newbie).

It's really difficult if not impossible not to buy crap today when buying a telescope, especially for beginners. Unfortunately, in Astronomy as elsewhere, low prices are often synonymous with mediocre.

Thank you so much! I'm buying an Omega 16'' (second hand) ...Could't you tell me what must be the length of the baffle for that optic? Second question where can I have the specifications of the telescope to make a simulation with my pupils :) Regards Franck

Leon, are you still primarily doing photometry or astrometry? If so, are you still using a GSO RC or are you using something else?

isn't this just some matte black paint or light absorbing tape can easily solve?

you have not said where to buy the 3d printed baffling to correct the scope for imaging???

Woaw Flatpanel !!!❤❤❤

Wow 👌

Personally, I find all the "defects" with the vast majority of these precision instruments completely unacceptable. As usual, we are left with the only option of buying cheap quality equipment at not-so-cheap prices from China. When is some European or American company going to start making PROPER telescopes that are exactly what they should be "precision instruments" instead of us having to virtually rebuild or constantly tweak this garbage from China?

I have the TPO aka (Third Planet Optics) 14" Truss RC from OPT their house brand. Does this scope have the same issue, and should I get the adapter to extend the baffle tube? Do you make them? thanks for the video and your work

I'd just print a tube extension to deal with most of the bad stray light and maybe just add the baffles inside the existing primary baffle and/or just paint it with a even less reflective coating

Great video thank you. I am looking at buying the 16" Do you know if they've fixed the issue from your findings?

More Chinese fraud and garbage

Any astro involving mirrors is held together with duct tape and hope.

Apparently Orion just slaps their brand on anything now. They should really include the baffle.

This is a very well researched video! Great presentation

TS-Optics does not give strehl information about their optics and since even a 16 inch f8 RC OTA only costs around €7000 I suspect that the optics aren't first rate.

Hi all, just ordered a GSO RC6 and your video was about 2 years ago, could have GSO make a longer baffling already?

really a research grade advice ... thanks

Anyone have stl file for RC 12?

One of the reasons I got rid of my GSO 6"F9 Cassegrain. GSO could learn a trick or 2 from Takahashi. My Mewlon is well baffled and no stray light.

Hello. Any update from your side? I have been looking at a RC 8 model. Can you confirm whether the extension of the baffle completely fixed the stray light issue? Any other associated difficulty? Thank you Ashvn

Interesting video. I guess the "yellow line problem" only appears with open RCs because the wall of the outer tube will block that path on any of the affordable closed variants. Next time I take apart my 6" RC to clean the primary mirror, I will try to get a laserpointer to skip both mirrors and come out at the focal point of my camera. If that works, I will try to improve the baffle.

We need people like you.

excellent video. Straight and to the point. Thanks for looking into this

In your video description, you mentioned that the RC8 is least affected by this problem, if I understand correctly?

Do you have one for the RC20? Many thanks!

Thanks! Can you provide the detail design information you got from Teleskop Express? Did they provide the optical prescription on the mirrors, like ROC and conics? I have a GSO RC-8. I believe a longer outer baffle will help too. The scattering from the inner baffle is pretty bad. The threads are too small, and the coating is too reflective. Flat black paint can be difficult and expensive for such a long tube, outside and inside.

How can you tell which ones are made by GSO?

Thanks, I was just about to pull the trigger on an RC14. Do you happen to have or know where I can find an STL file for that one? Nothing on Thingverse

Hello excellent video, I have seen that many use the so-called Flexible Dew Shield, I don't know if that avoids a little the parasitic lights that affect the telescope.

Thank you for the upload.

Hello, great work! did you Design the 3d models of baffles extensions?

These telescope are excellent for the money. Buld quality is great and are easily fixed by anyone with modest skills. Thanks for the information. I hadn't really noticed the issue, well nothing PI DBE couldn't fix! :-) But I will put my 3D printer to work and make the extension to the baffle.

Star that is gonna look out of other stars ✨

Thanks for posting and for providing the necessary numbers. I'm designing a baffle extension for the 16" and am a bit confused by the numbers provided. From the video it seems as though your Y-value is a radial offset and not a diameter offset. If the Y-value is a radial offset, shouldn't the Y be doubled for designing the extension inward taper? For example, the inner diameter of the existing baffle for the 16" is 114mm. At the end of the extension, should the inner diameter be 107mm (1x Y) or 100mm (2x Y)?

This is a thing of beauty! Thank you for posting this.

Great information and research Leon. I have a 12" RC truss GSO telescope and would like to establish the length of the baffle needed. It measures about 305mm long from the flange inside te mirror with the outside diameter reducing in 2 steps at the open end. My flats don't show a distinctive bright ring. They gradually reduce in count towards the corner of the APS-C sensor as you would expect with vignetting. There is a slight darkening at the centre.

It's fake

What if Hubble looked at Webb? Would it be able to see a high quality image of the shield?

Thank you! I honestly wanted to throw away my RC 308mm, astrograph! The images are awful, I'm struggling to achieve really good collimation. I working with the Howie Glatter collimator and it's not going well. But thanks for this video, more to add to the list of issues with the type of scope. I honestly would not recommend the older designed RC. The newer ones have separated the focuser from the primary mirror, which I sure everyone already knows by this time.

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very fast

What are static star lights in the foreground ? Why it is moving so fast ,where as it should be relatively static ,because l2 moves with earth !

I wish the rest of humanity's assxxxx could understand the magnitude of this human endeavor. Just maybe we'd have a small chance that we could save the planet and reach the stars, and spend our resources to do so.