Відео

Glad the video helped you out. Thank for watching!

Unfortunately, some master cylinders are hard to access. Only two nuts securing them to the booster but all the other crap in the way can be frustrating. Typically, checking push rod clearance is something done when replacing a master or booster so all the other stuff is out of the way. Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!

@@vintagespeedandperformance6615 (i just replaced my brake booster causing me to make the original comment) i did adjust the rod, brake pedal no longer engaged the brakes towards the bottom. however my problem of pushing the pedal and having no breaking then suddenly it tries to lock the tires up still stayed. rulled I have a bad master cylinder as after I get the brake pedal to stop the jeep, the pedal will just go to the floor, but the jeep wont move till I release the brake. braking is either like 0% brakes or like 85% braking power within a 1" travel zone, then pedal drops to the floor after I push the brakes...

Thank you

Thank for watching. Happy to hear it helped you out.

Thanks for watching and I’m happy you found the video useful.

Unfortunately some pushrods are not readily accessible and worse, some are not adjustable. If it’s a stock application and you’re using stock parts, generally you don’t have to adjust the pushrod. With all the off shore parts on the market now I think maybe that’s going to change. So when you apply the brakes and the pushrod is exposed, can you see any flats spots or a hex that would indicate it’s adjustable? Have somebody depress the brake or wedge a 2x4 between the pedal and the seat to check if the pushrod is adjustable. Grab it with some pliers if there aren’t any flats. If it is adjustable, the process is similar, you’ll just have to mash the brake pedal each time you adjust the rod. Press the pedal, screw the rod out a few turns then let go of the pedal. Attempt to seat the master cylinder. If it mounts without hitting the rod, screw it out more until the master won’t seat. Then start backing the rod back in a 1/4 to half turn at a time. When the master fully seats, give the rod one more 1/4 to 1/3 turn in to give it proper clearance to the master cylinder piston. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!

Thanks for watching. It is a fairly simple and cheap project compared to what one cost retail. I have an old snap-on leak down tester I bought at an estate sale a couple years ago. My DIY version gets the same results as the snap on unit. Maybe one day I’ll make a comparison video. Good luck with your project!

Wheel cylinder and axle seal leak can get pretty nasty. The worse thing about replacing the axle seal is the smell…man I hate the smell of gear oil. I hope your project is going well. Thanks for watching!

Solder would certainly work. Thanks!

This video was to demonstrate an on car adjustment. If you cannot reach the rod, have a buddy depress the brake pedal to extend it outside the booster housing. Make the adjustment, release the pedal and fit the master. Same thing if you’re setting it up on the bench, push in the booster rod from back side to access the adjustment. Adjust the rod out just far enough where the master will not seat then back it off a half turn at a time. When the master fully seats on the booster housing. Give the rod another 1/2 turn in. You want about .030” clearance between the pushing rod and this master curling piston. The clearance is for thermal expansion of the master cylinder piston. If the piston expands and makes contact with the pushrod when brake pedal is released, the brakes will drag. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck

thanks for responding yea I will try this method and give it another go

Thanks for watching. Check out this article from Speedway on proportioning valves. Good Luck! www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/brake-proportioning-valve-reset-symptoms-bleeders-adjustment/134183#:~:text=Press%20the%20brake%20pedal%20three,that%20IS%20getting%20brake%20fluid.

Yes, the restriction allows for a pressure differential between the two gauges so we can quantify the loss of pressure. It also restricts the volume of air. You’re correct, without a restriction a small leak would be measurable but a large leak will result in the pressure gauge going to zero or near zero. The restriction reduces the volume of air getting into the cylinder and makes it a controlled leak and allows the pressure gauge to stabilize.

You need the restriction to give a measurable pressure drop....in effect the restriction turns the device into a flow meter. With a good cylinder and almost no flow, the pressure drop across the restriction is close to zero so the two gauges show nearly the same reading. For a leaky cylinder, air flow rate is high which results in a big pressure drop across the restriction and so the two gauges show a big difference. It's the difference in pressure on the two gauges that you use for diagnosis. Without the restriction...or with too big a hole (more than 1mm diameter)...there is very little pressure drop and so the two gauges show the same reading regardless of flow rate. I bought a cheap gauge and it had a 2.5mm hole and showed no pressure drop regardless of how much air flowed. I had to modify it to bring the hole size down to 1mm. As an aside, once you've identified a bad cylinder and want to trace the leak, you're better off removing the leak down tester and connecting the air line direct to the cylinder. This will allow much higher flow rates and make it easier to feel or hear where the air is leaking out.

@markjones3121 well said.

@@markjones3121 Good info - like the idea of directly hooking up airline for extra air to identify leak location.

When I know there is a dead cylinder or i have isolated a problem to one cylinder, I won’t waste time with the tester. I will apply air directly to cylinder at 100psi. I knocked the porcelain out of a spark plug and welded an air fitting to it. Cheap tool and makes it easy to connect an air hose.

Thanks for watching. This video was made in 2018 when things were a little cheaper. I suppose I could change the title to reflect current pricing. I spent less than 10 dollars out of pocket to assemble this tester using random parts I had on hand like the quick coupling, the hose from my compression tester, a gauge off my old compressor. I had to purchase the Air Regulator, the galvanized tee and the close nipple. I assumed most people willing to build this would have the compression tester already for the hose and a quick connector for the air compressor. I just looked up the prices for a regulator with gauge (5.99), a 160psi gauge (6.99) and a quick connect set (4.99) from harbor freight and a galvanized tee (1.77) and close nipple (1.40) from Home Depot for a total of 21.14.

Thanks for watching. Definitely sounds like the booster is defective. Aftermarket parts for the most part are junk now. There seems to be no quality control. I know it’s going to probably triple the cost but personally, i would go with an OEM booster. Back in the day, NAPA carried quality parts but in order to compete with autozone and others they started selling lower quality parts. They still have a premium line of parts so you might want to check with them to see what they have for your tundra and compare to OEM cost. Good luck and let us know how it goes

As air passes through the restriction from the high pressure side, the pressure drops. The installed gauge allows us to see the pressure differential between the supply side and the leaking cylinder. A cylinder leak down test can be accomplished by applying static air pressure to the cylinder without a gauge, then listening for air coming out of intake, exhaust, etc. This is great for finding a gross defect in an engine but without a gauge we can’t determine the severity of the leak. A Leak down tester allows us to quantify the leak and compare readings cylinder to cylinder and against specifications. Not a fluid dynamics guy but I hope that explanation helps. Thanks for watching !

Thanks mate, appreciate it, i have a cheap leak down tester now, however i find it anoying to dial it in within the "set" range, aswell as it normally is in the set range with the reg set around 20psi. I might swap the gauges on the manifold so i can just set the reg to 100spi, can you see an issue with that? I presume inside my current tester manifold its restricted, if not i can epoxy and drill a 1mm hole.

@@ybsadfor the 20 psi leak down testers are touchy, I find they work best for small engines like on lawn mower. Swapping the supply gauge out for 100 psi should work as long as the regulator is rated for that pressure. You’ll know pretty quick if it’s not, you won’t be able to adjust pressure. There should already be a restriction inside the manifold.

Thanks. I appreciate the comment and the sub! More mustang content coming soon.

I don’t recall exactly what size I used, but a 1/16” bit will work. I use number drills a lot for machine work that are measured in thousandths of an inch instead of fractions. I have a bunch of them laying around making them an easy grab. If I recall correctly I used a #53 or #54 and they are both just slightly smaller than a 1/16th. Thanks for watching and I hope you build a leak down tester. Prices today are quite a bit higher than 2019 but you should be able to put something together for about 25 bucks using HF stuff.

Thanks for watching. Happy you found value in the video.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks…I was smiling yesterday after my first drive in three months after an engine top end rebuild. Thanks for watching! More videos to come.

Glad to hear the video was of some help and saved you some $$$. I have used mine several times and it’s just as accurate as the Snap-On leak down tester gathering dust in my tool box. As I tell my wife..it’s not clutter, it’s an unassembled project. Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for new content.

That is just a little 1/4” drive T-Handle breaker bar with a socket. A wrench or ratchet and socket will work just fine. Do not apply the brakes when making this adjustment. You are setting the air gap between the push rod and master cylinder piston. There has to be a gap or the brakes will not fully release when you take foot off the pedal. Thanks for watching!

👍Channel locks aka pump pliers are used everyday to tighten pipe fittings.

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. Happy you found it useful and good luck with your project!

I hear ya…unfortunately they all aren’t that easy.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching

I feel you…not a fan of music over time lapse video. Thanks for watching!

Hi Sean, probably not the bearings. Try this, tighten the wheel bearing nut until the wheel won’t spin. If it still wobbles, probably the ball joints. You can use a pry bar and pry between the ball joints and spindle to see if there is any play. If there is any play at all replace the ball joints.

@@vintagespeedandperformance6615 tried tightening I'm halfway through replacing them I will check the ball joints next since they weren't spending very well anyway the car sits a lot so I just kind of assume they were bad but it's probably the ball joints and I have them so I will do them next thank you for your quick response

Typically, a bearing don't need to be replaced unless they have been abused, no grease, failed seal, etc. If you aren't sure when the last time the bearings were repacked its worth the hour to pull the front wheels to clean and repack the bearings. Clean up the bearings and give them a good inspection. Replace if you see any pitting or corrosion, any blue discoloration (indication of excess heat). If you replace a bearing, the race should also be replaced. And dont forget to replace the seal. After you know they have fresh grease, you can give them a quick adjustment about every 12k miles. Clean and repack every 36K miles. The clunk could also be worn ball joints, worn bushings, bad tie rods. When I purchased the car, the coil springs were shot and the upper control arms were hitting the bump stops...what was left of them. It clunked every time i hit a bump. Be sure to check everything out while you have it in the air.

Thanks for watching

It’s actually 59 seconds 😝

👍😁👍

I assume you are asking about the quick disconnect hose. The hose is from my compression tester set. Most compression testers use a hose like this. If you dont have one already it is an additional expense and it will push the cost of this project higher. IF you dont have one and you want to diagnose engine condition you need one anyway. These prices were from 2019 so it may be hard to find all these parts for the same price. www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-shop-tools/compression-pressure-testers/compression/quick-connect-compression-tester-62622.html

Thank you

glad you found the video!

Thanks for subscribing! Hopefully I will have some new content by year end.

Adjusting the push rod probably wont help with no return. Issues I have had with pedal not returning can be related to system needing to be bled, improperly adjusted shoes (all drum brakes), bad master. Hope you already figured out your issue

Awesome response I’m in same predicament Rebuilding all cylinders first Them I’ll be sure and check rod adjustment for sure!

Good luck with your project. Keep us updated on how you make out.

You're welcome!

Hi Rolly, I hope you figured out your booster situation. I am not very familiar with modern imports but the rod shouldn't be connected directly to the diaphragm. You may be able to find an exploded view diagram of your booster with a google search.

When they get real loose you will hear some light clunking when turning. Wobble and wandering could be from bad ball joints, tie rods or idler arm

Glad it helped