DIY Bryan or Die Try'n
DIY Bryan or Die Try'n
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Schwintek In-Wall Slideout Manual Forced Operation and Motor Replacement
One of our Schwintek slides would not operate on one end, because of a failed motor. To replace the motor, the slide needs to be halfway out and it was stuck in with no way to move it out. There are a number of good videos discussing how to troubleshoot and replace the motor. But I couldn't find any video on how to manually force the slide open so you can get at the motor retaining screw, located behind the slide flange on the outside. This video takes you through the process of forcing the slide open along with the motor replacement. It also includes an analysis of why the slide is so difficult to move. Hope this helps someone out.
Table of Contents:
00:00 Introduction
03:28 Analysis of why the slide is so difficult to move!
05:09 Procedure for manually forcing the slide to move out
12:01 Procedure for manually forcing the slide to move in (discussion)
12:47 Removing the motor
15:41 Broken motor review
17:00 Resistive torque value measurement for analysis
19:05 Slide resistive force analysis
19:52 New motor installation
24:06 Motor synchronization (discussion)
25:08 Closing
Переглядів: 862

Відео

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КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @chazzmarshall509
    @chazzmarshall509 Місяць тому

    These videos are going to be a wealth of knowledge for years to come as more and more of these bikes are having the same issues, or being brought back to life. My CB1000C appreciates it.

  • @BretChilcott
    @BretChilcott Місяць тому

    Bryan - Your video inspired me to make a jacking device to push the slides out . I call it the "Sliderator." :-) Here is a no frills video about it: ua-cam.com/video/z-8A7canvbY/v-deo.html Many thanks for the work you do on video's to help RVr's.

    • @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz
      @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz Місяць тому

      Love it!! I often name my inventions with the suffix "erator". That or "The [NameHere] - 2000". Glad it was helpful. Like you, I am not going for likes, follows or any of that stuff. Just trying to help others. Funny thing though, I posted a link to this on IRV2 Forum and they took it down. Said it was commercialized. I guess the reason being that UA-cam puts ads on it whether you are trying to monetize it or not. Anyway, no good dead goes unpunished….

  • @BretChilcott
    @BretChilcott Місяць тому

    Awesome video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have the same slide and the same motor as you had to deal with that failed on our Tiffin. I am so please to learn about the use of the jack to push the slide out. Thank you! Bret C

  • @AndrésGómeztoga
    @AndrésGómeztoga 2 місяці тому

    Hola buenas noches disculpa de dónde puedo ajustar la guía de cadena sin destapar el motor es honda CB 900 custom Modelo 1981

  • @AndrésGómeztoga
    @AndrésGómeztoga 2 місяці тому

    Está chido tu video yo también tengo una pero tiene un detalle es esa cadenita i la guía

  • @InvertedMike
    @InvertedMike 3 місяці тому

    Fantastic video. Another example of the good side of UA-cam for DIY education. Combined with MyRVWorks Schwintek guru guidance, your video completes the circle of knowledge. Your deep analysis of the system and using a horizontal jack for the brute push force in either direction is great. I like watching videos like this to further my understanding so if I encounter a similar failure of my system I will have a lot less anxiety in solving the problem. I have one question, will the JBweld allow extraction of the motor set screw in the future? Thanks again for adding this video to the UA-cam Schwintek Knowledge library. cheers. Mike.

    • @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz
      @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz Місяць тому

      Thank you. No, the JB weld will not prevent unscrewing it. It will act like a thread repair and probably most of it will flake off when the screw is turned. It's just there to keep the stripped screw from falling out. Another option would have been to use silicone.

  • @ghnl1961
    @ghnl1961 3 місяці тому

    To keep the slide motors synchronized, hold the extend/retract button down for a few seconds after the slide gets to the fully out or in positions. This allows the motors to "amp out" and the slide controller will then know they are both all the way in or out.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 3 місяці тому

      Yes, this is how that is done. As noted in my video, there is lots of information on UA-cam on how to synch the slide. I was focusing on the issue of not being able to replace the motor without manually forcing the slide to move. Which does not appear to be covered anywhere, at least I didn't find it.

  • @ghnl1961
    @ghnl1961 3 місяці тому

    The weight of the slide box should not be borne on the slide system. There should be rollers underneath the box that supports the weight.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 3 місяці тому

      True. But not really pertenent to the repair done. Maybe in my case those rollers don't turn as well as they should. Regardless, the resistance of the box rubbing against the seals, the roller resistance with the box weight on it, the friction of the rack gears meshing with the pinion all added to the torque needed to rotate the gear motor add up to a huge force that needs to be overcome. Hence the purpose of the video.

  • @tarzan30809
    @tarzan30809 5 місяців тому

    Thanks for the video! Need to do this work on my 1976 Jeep J10 with the same transfer case.

  • @abbiebeast
    @abbiebeast 6 місяців тому

    First try to reset the controller. Then check Fuses. If still an issue BE SURE TO DISCONNECT the motors FROM the controller and you should be and to move them on the slide much easier than what your running into here!! Once in position RECONNECT the motors to the controller even if it's not working because this acts as the "break" in the system which is half the battle you are running into.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 6 місяців тому

      Thanks for your input. Just out of curiosity, did you watch the video? I realize it is rather long, but with all due respect, your comments would suggest that you may not have. Resetting the controller is not going to help with moving the slide or fixing a bad motor. Similarly, checking fuses won’t move the slide or fix the motor. During the troubleshooting techniques as outlined by Darren at MyRVWorks the motor was identified as the issue so this video is about how to get the slide moved out and replacing the motor, not troubleshooting controllers or fuses. And finally, as outlined in the video, the motor was indeed disconnected for the operation of moving the slide out to make the motor repair so there was no “break” working against me.

    • @AdventurePaddle
      @AdventurePaddle 3 місяці тому

      @@bryanwelsh1773 Man, I was worried I will have to do this. My motor isn't getting power and after inspecting there is one black wire cut just at the motor. I could reconnect the wire if I could get to the motor, but I can't! This is mindblowing that it's the only option. RV manufacturing surprises me every day.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 3 місяці тому

      @@AdventurePaddle Yah, it is crazy. Unfortunately it is the "state of the art" for this type of slide which is used on virtually every manufacturer. In addition to the pin removal, it is super bad when the inside access is blocked by some wall configuration. I was lucky on mine in that I could easily get to the motor (once the pin was removed).

    • @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz
      @FriendsandFamily-kr7zz Місяць тому

      @@bryanwelsh1773 Yah, same here, luckely had easy access to it. If the opposite slide had gone out, would have and to remove the wood face. :(

  • @PirateJon520
    @PirateJon520 6 місяців тому

    Is there a plug at the end of the tensioners shaft that's suppose to in? Mine has developed an oil leak there and the lock down nut.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 6 місяців тому

      Yes. It is shown in the video being removed at the beginning and installed at the end of the other repair video referenced.

  • @fasterspider
    @fasterspider 8 місяців тому

    I made a similar video 18yrs ago but, it was done to a CB1100F cam chain tensioner bolt hole. Most of my videos were deleted because they were not child friendly, oh well. I swear by the Time-Sert thread repair method, it is the best. Keep up the good work

  • @yashsamant6090
    @yashsamant6090 9 місяців тому

    Why did you have to replace just the upper chain?

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 9 місяців тому

      I didn't replace the upper chain. It stayed in the engine. If you are asking why I changed just the upper chain tensioner it was because it was worn out, cracked, and leaving black plastic bits in the oil pan so clearly needed replacing, and I figured I could do it without removing the engine. If you needed to replace the other (cam A) tensioner, then you need to disassemble the engine, which of course would be quite a chore.

    • @yashsamant6090
      @yashsamant6090 9 місяців тому

      @@bryanwelsh1773 Yeah. That's what I meant (tensioner). Thanks 👍🏻

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 9 місяців тому

      @@yashsamant6090 Welcome. For what it's worth, the lower tensioner didn't look bad from the angle I could see it. It doesn't have the same form factor as the upper, which has quite a bend to it. So maybe not under as much wear and stress.

    • @AndrésGómeztoga
      @AndrésGómeztoga 2 місяці тому

      Si igual la cadena está muy floja de mi moto

  • @patrikbarro4537
    @patrikbarro4537 9 місяців тому

    💪 Promo_SM

  • @genesound
    @genesound 10 місяців тому

    Hey Spud, good job! Nice job of using the search engine on the site and figuring it all out! A couple of notes... 1. Your countersink is not deep enough. The surface where the locknut seats needs to be flat. 2. Do not modify the bolt, as the o-ring seats against that surface where the size changes, as well as the flat area. Changing any of that could result in a leak to someone that doesn't understand this as well as you do.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 10 місяців тому

      Thanks Gene! I would not have been able to fix it without the info I found on the cb750c.com site. Regarding your notes: 1. I agree regarding depth and have no idea why it would not work out. As noted in the video, I even used a power drill on it several times and no further chips were produced. And I contemplated pulling the insert out and trying again but decided against it. The top surface does need to be flat, however, the top of the insert has a quite wide flange on it which satisfies this IMO. Ideally, it should have been flush without a doubt. 2. It appears to me that the O-ring does not seat at the size change as stated, rather, it seats on the upper portion (larger) of the shaft and the jam nut. Making a modification of some kind is not an option as far as I can tell. I gave two options in the video, one to add a shim and the other to modify the bolt (and associated risks). The biggest thing I learned out of this repair is that the insert does not properly duplicate the form factor of the original design (a thread at the bottom of a bored hole, the bored hole being relief for the larger shank). The insert has a minimal amount of relief, so you have to account for it in some way. I think the animation I created is correct and shows this relationship, but I could be wrong too. BTW, I have no leaks. I really appreciate the feedback and hopefully people read the UA-cam comments (I know I do) as these kinds of clarifications and suggestions come up all the time. “Your mileage may vary”

  • @kodijackson5466
    @kodijackson5466 Рік тому

    Do you know what that knob is that you had your thumb on at 5:15? It's leaking on mine.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 Рік тому

      I believe it is the air vent. In the video, my casing has been cleaned up but you can still see some dark color around it where oil had leaked out. Some leaking is normal I would think. If leaking a lot, maybe the disc cap has been damaged or perhaps the case is overfilled with oil. As I recall, the disc is loosely fitted to the tube that goes into the casing. This allows for air to get out but provides a seal to keep dirt and water from going in.

  • @jmailbell
    @jmailbell Рік тому

    Great looking well preserved U15. The ranger package was always a nice touch.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 Рік тому

      Thanks. It is not the original paint but they did a decent job on it. I bought it pretty much as you see it 15-20 years ago. Things have gone way crazy since then....

  • @BetterSleepSounds
    @BetterSleepSounds Рік тому

    Thanks. I looked for this about 6 months ago and didn’t find anything. Mine has been bad for years.

    • @bryanwelsh1773
      @bryanwelsh1773 Рік тому

      Glad you found it useful. I couldn't find one either at the time. So I made one!