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@@jamespatterson9535 xfire performance

@glastornjet73 if i were doing that I'd probably just make a custom lid and spacer at that point and move the units to a better location.

@ thats what i was going to do. Make a lid and a few dif top plates so i could use 2 Rochester 2bbls or 2bbl holleys or maybe 2 2bbl tbi units. 350 tbi units flow 500cfm stock and can flow 650 modified that may be cool with a holley ecm

@glastornjet73 yeah. The only real issue with the CFI units is lack of larger injectors so you're stuck upping pressure to make horsepower. The TBI units having 2 a piece solve that problem. There used to be a kit that would allow the use of a standard Bosch injector in the TBI pod and it would require a different ecm due to the impedance change for the injector. If you are using a Holley unit that may also be an avenue to explore.

@ not anymore you can get big block injectors new again now. Also can get the 9c1 police injectors which are slightly bigger than the regular 350 injectors. The regular 350 injectors are 55lb 55x4=220/8=27.5 thats like having a 27.5lb injector for each hole

@glastornjet73 i have the big block injectors and I'm already at their duty cycle limit without really cranking up the pressure.

@@theone-ti4rt i want to say 10 amp

@larrybud little heat and a prayer? 🤣 I got nothing beyond that. Even living in the rust belt, I've not had too terrible an experience with any of my vehicles being a pain. Sorry.

@@ratherbeboating10 They don't really even look that rusted, just "stuck"

@larrybud interesting. If you can't get an impact on it, air hammer or regular hammer on the wrench can sometimes jerk it free.

@@ratherbeboating10 I ended up buying a set of open end wrenches and was able to hammer it to break free. Thanks for the tips. Might have to look into an air hammer!

Never was able to remove the bolts themselves from the knuckle, they are seized up good.. However, it's not necessary if you unbolt the bottom shock. I did have one sleeve of the bone which was seized, and to remove it I had to grind a notch lengthwise, being sure not to go all the way thru. Then some hammer and chisel work back and forth to free it up.

@joshup1275 I really don't. Mess around with friends every once and a while but I'm not that guy.

@@ratherbeboating10 did it feel faster after manifold my 1991 305 with holley projection tbi manifold made a crazy black and white difference in better/faster

@@joshup1275 noticeably better

The pistons, rods and crank are the only things left from 1984.

It's been a while now but yes. It drives better... but I have a weird torque steer under power. I'm assuming it's the ~ 350hp doing it but it's definitely weird but way better than it was.

It's a down and dirty method but it works to get in the ball park. Glad you all got it running and driving. Sorry about the catalytic converter.

Great video! Where did you get the 2" throttle body? How much did it cost?

Yeah. It seems they do last a good while allegedly being forged units. I tested mine and they were fine but it was one of those... I'm here I may as well do this things.

@@ratherbeboating10 and maybe it's because these suspensions are very stiff and don't travel much so the joints don't work that hard

@@ratherbeboating10 I'm gonna go through mine again...will be easier now that the rivets have been drilled out. Got Moog joints for a steal on eBay...seller that sells new old stock. They're also hardend ...re did some urethane bushings back in 2017..I was surprised they were breaking down just as rubber does but worse ...I anticipated then being much more robust and lasting many times longer than rubber. At least they too are much easier to replace now that the rubber are gone

@mariocooldude9092 yeah. The issue with poly is when they fail, they fail. Rubber slowly falls apart at least....

@@ratherbeboating10 hahaha 🤣 yep ..my rear camber rod bushings just disintegrated I was like what the hell 😲 I thought my lug nuts were all loose as hell 🤣

Funny enough, crossfire vault was before my time. I got access to the site just as it went offline so I never interacted with anyone over there.

It's on my work bench. I windowed a section of the runner and haven't gotten around to repairing it yet.

@@ratherbeboating10 would you say its worth my time porting. Only considering doing it because a carb swap is like 400$

@solo_dolo6553 it depends. I still haven't tested it. But on a stock engine it has been reported to be worth up to 7 tenths in the quarter, which is nothing to laugh at.

I mainly was trying to get it done ASAP at a house that was not mine... if I wasn't pressed for time, there are about two dozen things I'd have done differently all around, not limited to hot pressure washing and a tripod....

Keep up the good work sir. And hopefully the engine reinstall goes as smooth as the removal. I also hope your O/D isn't cooked too. (I am on CF and following along but I don't want this stuff to be there directly. I don't want to be "that guy". If it helps it helps and that is it. I'm not advertising it lol.)

Thabk you. Which manual?

​@@ratherbeboating10 Don't need it, I found it, thanks.

Yes. Mid America quad power.

I don't believe any of it is in production anymore. But the headers and exhaust were the melrose exhaust and the mufflers are mid America quad power muffler eliminators. Obviously heads, cam, intake also help the sound.

They're no longer in production. There is a company xfireperformance who made the tooling and is trying to get some back into production. We'll see what comes of it.

Thanks too much friend

I have fun... or enjoy punishing myself lol

I put 360 to the tire on a mustang dyno with a stock bottom end... that's good enough for me for now lol.

I don't feel like pulling the transmission to do the rear main is what it comes down to. But a lot of it was the valve covers.

@@ratherbeboating10 So i guess what i'm really asking is, is it okay to just run it with this oils drip and just top it once in a while?

@VicTor-fo5ef I got over 300k miles on it like that. I don't think I've negatively impacted its life in any way shape or form. Now nature and my driveway may not agree with that.

@@ratherbeboating10 I see, guess i'll just leave it like that. Thanks for the replies. Yeah same my driveway has tears of oil. lol

@@ratherbeboating10 Hey just want to update, my leaks had been fewer. I did a recent oil change and added STP High Mileage Oil Treatment + Stop Leak, it's the 443ml, added to the oil, i can barely see a drip, just wanted to share you might want to try it.

Yeah. I ended up renting a steamer a couple weeks later to clean up underneath. It was just too cold at the time and I was under a time crunch.

@@ratherbeboating10 I could understand that, working in the cold sux! I cringe when I see videos of guys using Napa aluminum cleaner with parts on the car. That's acid seeping into areas, like bushings,lol. Have you replaced engine mounts yet?? I just got them new for my 95 from prothane. Not installed yet.

@geneyus6411 I actually did the engine mounts a few years prior when I did the engine upgrades. Pretty easy install and really tightened up the front end... its hard to describe the feeling but especially since the old mounts gave a little bit, it just feels different

@@ratherbeboating10 I'm sure new engine mounts installed is a huge difference! Did you reinstall the heat shields on them?? I'm doing my rear suspension now, new trailing arms, control arms, wheel bearing/hub, rotors pads,calipers, new toe in arms/bracket, Crazy! Working on it today. Also new spring bolt,bushings🤪

@geneyus6411 Honestly being an 84, I don't recall any heat shield. They were standard clam shell mounts like every SBC. I think the later C4s have a different mount.

Actually about 5 but thats besides the point.

Yeah, it's not bad.

You have to figure out which port is the EBL connection then simply click the port on the WUD window.

@@ratherbeboating10 thanks man for replying, apparently turning it off and back on again was needed. Haha

They are in the video description....

I mean the car is tight. It was worth it for the feel. But at the same time there really isn't another option available. I feel it was worth the effort.

I'd love to be able to help but, there's just been so much going on right now I really don't have the time. If your car is basically stock I would advise starting with one of the stock bins included with the EBL. It should get you close enough to run and drive, then go from there. As far as loading a bin, you can read each of the banks to see the number that it corresponds to in the list and then set that bank active. If some time pops up I can try but it really has been few and far between at this point.

if you go back and watch closely, he shows you the page that shows the bin file slots, and on that page which is active. just write down the name of which is activity running your car right now. and then as you make changes to try things, if you make a mistake go back and reload that bin file and make it active. you'll then be right back there you are now with nothing messed up. there's a file on the CD it came with called configuration. in there shows the names of tables and what they do. people will happily reply with help, but at some point if they think you aren't listening to them, or not even trying to learn from them. they give up on you. they need to see effort to learn by reading and researching. this is still what's left over from the late 80s early 90s diy guys. they didn't have anyone to teach them anything, or any shops to pay to tune for them like we have today. Google names of settings and read up.

@@jsomething2 I understand what you are saying BUT there are computer guys and then there are the guys who build everything around it. I'm the latter and I do not like to just "play around" with things like they did back in the day. IF something, anything were to go sideways I'd have zero help getting it sorted just like now. So for my personal learning style I can wait till I find someone who is actually willing and able to help. Otherwise it runs good enough for now until I find what I'm looking for.

I used the aluminum ducting tape on the inside of the air housing to cover the hole. It is on the outside of the air filter so there isn't any harm leaving it open but you would also be sucking in warmer air.

It's on the Australian super pro website. Once I'm back in front of a PC I'm going to add the link to the description

@@ratherbeboating10 you're the man. Once again, really really helpful video. Got the rack out so far, just wish I had a press.

@@Sammyjeans1 I updated the description with the link for the superpro website for the c4 parts. Just click the part numbers and scroll down, there is a instruction PDF for each number.

@@ratherbeboating10 thank you sir, I got a front corner done and the rack was just arrived back from being sleaved and rebuilt. Hope I can get the rest done this weekend.

@@ratherbeboating10 Hey sorry to bother you with this but I put together the driver side front upper control arm and do you think it's possible to get that stick in backwards? There is a pretty significant gap between the lip of the front bushing and the edge of the control arm it faces. There is like a 1/8" gap

I did, didn't seem like it would fit in the original shell.

C4s are my favorite generation but the 84 is by far the least desirable year of the C4! What this thing probably made 150hp!!

@@C4VETTELT1 As the owner of a 1984 C4, you're completely correct, it's easily the least desirable year, and least powerful by far. 1985 had huge improvements

Wasn't even close. The belt part number in the description is the one that worked for the stock pulley setup with the bypass pulley in place of the smog pump.

@@ratherbeboating10ok thank you

It was only shipping but a gentleman on corvette fourm flowed it... if you look up a flow bench in the C4 section, superl98 comes up.

@@ratherbeboating10 I changed the heads. 64 cc aluminum and 1.6 rockers increased timing to 10degs. Need to check fuel pressure it seems like fuel is puddling at lower rpm. Maybe low vacuum at lower rpm????

@@10rrace it could be any number of things causing that if I'm being honest... puddling and such could be the first place to check.