Відео

V0 Slayer

No full top out needed it ends where the video ends. Just establish on the side. Atleast from what i know :)

Yep, it ends in the seam where the video ends, you just continue to traverse out right and finish near the tree. Topping out would be more like a free solo hahaha

@@row-block-shoot4109 that's for certain!

@@jonnaylornc the waves have taken hold of me... I'm a surfer now

Yea, the people on the climb next to me grabbed it for me when it fell off 😄

Glad the videos were of some help to you! Nice work on Lurp! That's a really fun one with some good movement! I think it was one of my first V4s I did as well. Also, I'm definitely going to try out dipping my finger in cold water. That's actually something I've heard of doing before, but I completely forgot about it so thanks for the reminder 😄 I think the only difference between what you're suggesting and the other protocol that I had heard is that you alternate between cold and warm water keeping your hand in for a min or two at a time before switching. I'll give both a shot in my next phase of rehab and see how it goes.

⁠​⁠@@NoahChomskyI struggled with feet on the first couple of moves before the big reach/dyno because I felt very compressed, but it felt so smooth once I found the right foot placement for myself. It was a very fun problem that I wasn’t expecting to send. And no problem for the reminder, glad I was able to help in some regard! For the protocol I used, you should feel your finger or hand (depending on how much is submerged) flush with blood and suddenly feel warmer around 10 minutes into the soak. If you don’t feel it happen, the water is probably too cold. I tried the alternating cold and hot as well, but I was using an ice pack and a heat pad set to 160° so it may have been too extreme to work properly the way I did it. As long as you’re getting a reduction in any swelling that might persist and you increase the blood flow, it should speed up the healing process. Best of luck with your rehab!

Yea, that's a really good idea, thank you! In the gym, I've established a pretty good warm-up routine that works wonders for me, but definitely need to come up with something outside. I'll see if I can put something together and if I find something that works well for me, I'll make a video. I do plan on highlighting my warm-up routine once I start climbing again!

I don't really think that's the issue to be honest. I think most of the time I've injured myself it boils down to either over-use or improperly warming up. And if my fingers weren't ready, I don't think I'd be able to hold the holds. I think in this case, it was most likely due to improper warmup. Went to Tsunami first thing when I arrived at Moore's and although I thought my fingers were warm, the move I popped my finger on is the most intense move and I didn't try it until that go. I probably should've done some more links from different sections or warmed up on a different boulder first and this could have been avoided.

Thanks man! And of course glad they helped you out!

Thanks man! Hope it goes soon 🙌🏼

What jazz song best describes my movement Jonathan?

@@NoahChomsky Toss up between Om by John Coltrane and When Can I have a Banana Again? by Harry Roy

Thanks man!

Yea totally fine! Ended up swapping shoes and sending next go.

Yea, I've only been there a few times, but it's pretty easy to access and def a lot of good climbing for all levels.

Too 💪 bro!

lol

Great meeting y'all! Sure I'll see you guys out there again 🤙

Hey, so here's a general overview of The Gunks as a whole on mountain project www.mountainproject.com/area/105798167/the-gunks . I'm no expert on the area by any means. It was actually my first time out there. For bouldering, you can just use mountain project if you want, but I always prefer guidebooks if it's an option. You have two options as far as guidebooks go. There's an electronic version that you can buy via the "Gunks App" app. You get individual licenses for each area on there. This area that I was at is the Trapps Area Bouldering. The other option is the actual physical guidebook, which is my personal preference. You can buy this from the Rock & Snow shop in New Paltz (Rock and Snow (845) 255-1311 g.co/kgs/HixFWQ ) or at the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center (Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center (845) 255-0919 g.co/kgs/2nQfxx ). Note that you'll have to pay a $20 fee at the Visitor Center to climb at The Gunks, but if you plan on going frequently, I believe you can get an annual pass for $115 at the Visitor Center (www.mohonkpreserve.org/join/) Also, I'd suggest getting there early if you plan on going on a weekend. I know this area can get pretty busy, and parking might be tough. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions, let me know!

Thanks! 😄

Thanks!

I would imagine being 5 foot 4 on any problem would make it more difficult 😂

Thanks!!

Lol what's wrong with the sharks??

It was more of mental thing having them down there. Not much they can really do when I'm falling 20 ft lol

They aren't supposed to catch you, just make sure you hit the pad. Thatbsaid the roll after landing could have been bad and it would be good for the spotters to try make sure he doesn't roll of.

Thank you 😀 It was actually super juggy after the middle so, just have to take your time on it and you're good!

It was super cool! Lol what do you mean your local grading sucks?

@@NoahChomsky stuff that's guidebook or MP V5 can be anywhere from stiff V2 to soft V8, and it's discouraged me from pushing my grade outdoors. This looks like legit V5/6 in a style I could maybe do, but I rarely try anything close to that grade because of all the random sandbags. I should just get over it and keep trying tho, just hard to measure progress when the grades can be all over the place and it Fs with your head

​@tylerlego41 ahh I hear ya. I would just make a list of lines that inspire you and go after those in that case. I think after a while you can get a sense for what's sandbagged and what's not, but if you're just psyched on the line, you'll get it eventually even if it's sandbagged and you'll come out a better climber in the end. I think this definitely falls around V5 there's one specific crux sequence and honestly figuring out how to hold the crimp was the tough part. What's your local area?

thank you 😂

🤜🪵

I actually don't know what that is. I've never seen it before

@Noah Chomsky it's close to where you say you were...big roof feature on the ridge but almost hidden until you get to it. Long moderate roof problem with some shorter harder lines up the side.

@John Provetero is that the one with a big crystal quarts hold in the roof past euro wall. Is it tall with a bad landing? I think it's right below this climb.

@Noah Chomsky no it's like the prow of a jet, juts out super steep. But kinda embedded in the ridge on the opposite side than the euro wall

Thanks bro!