Відео

@@RojerZalazar you’re asking about the lower frame rails?

@johnkelly6942 no just asking in general because I saw various that are 1 1/4 but I don't know if it is exterior or interior. Thank you

@@monadking2761 I’m meeting with the local Nomad expert this morning. I’ll ask him if he liftgate (you said “upper tailgate”) hinges.

@johnkelly6942 Yes, the upper. If I have to, I will make my own modeling them off my original Nomad i have had since i was 17, and I'm as old as my car to the month.

@@monadking2761 met with my guy and asked. He doesn’t have any spares and added several people have asked also looking for them.

@@monadking2761 I broke 4 of the 8 screws removing my tailgate hardware and luckily saved (drilled/rethreded) those holes. Broke a door latch screw (also fixed) and 1 of 2 screws holding the gas pedal (haven’t fiddled with that yet). I’m moving along (slowly) and hop to get the body on the repaired frame next week. Good luck with your project!

@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks! Too many motorcycle projects. If I don’t get rid of at least a couple of them I’ll never have the time to finish my Nomad!

@@sandyhanson6082 did your patch include making those ribs or did they work In between them?

@@EllisKarKustoms-v9j As my dear mother (God rest her soul) used to say, “John, things can always be worse”. I should never complain about my situation!!!!

@@VinoRatRodbuilds Thanks! You know the drill, sometimes it’s hard to feel like you’re making any progress.

@@victoriabrockman5473 Yes. I’m going to build a flat track bike and sell the road racer chassis.

@@michealg1487 my recollection is something like 80”. Unfortunately the original length was too short to work with the replacement tires (which were thicker than originals) and I can’t get my blade on (even taking on all the adjustment). Unfortunately the bandsaw is just sitting there waiting for me to order a slightly long blade.

@johnkelly6942 I got you, thanks! I have had it for a while now and starting to use it. Trying to get a blade for acrylic.

@@VinoRatRodbuilds Thanks! It was really a drag to find out about the rust damage but doing the repairs in phases has helped me stay positive as to the end result. The welder is coming to my shop tomorrow morning so I’ll probably post another update in a couple days. Thanks for following the project!

@@johnkelly6942 yeah a lot of things take a lot of work restoring cars. Great car to be having problems with though. 👍

@@thebuzztone the big ones are 9/16”. If I had to make that “axle plate fixture” again I would either use steel or thicker aluminum. I got a little deflection in that but ultimately my axle plates ended up in the right place. I happened to have that piece of aluminum and it was the same thickness as a stock Harley transmission plate so I can sit a transmission on it and check how it fit on the seat post.

@@johnkelly6942 Its awesome to see the exacting efforts you're going to. I'm making my own axle plates, so thank you for the hole sizing info.

@@greenhandle not yet. Are you interested?

@@johnkelly6942 i am negotiateing for a engine now so i was prospecting for parts. Very expensive.

@@joefracasso5265 Thanks for the feedback! Chevrolet definitely offered an orange (called Omaha Orange) for trucks, panel deliveries, etc. but was available for passenger cars. That’s my guess. Last week the president of the Nomad club came to look at the car. I believe he said he’s never seen one (he’s owned his ‘55 for 47 years). He’s going to share the cowl tag with other club members to see if we can learn more about it.

@@trep53 I actually have yet to get a saw blade on mine. I bought replacement tires and they’re too thick and even with all the adjustment cranked out still can’t get a blade on and tracking.

I put new tires on mine and found the alignment of the guides to the blade was off enough that I couldn’t run the saw. I even put the old tires back on to discover it didn’t make much difference. So after many hours studying and messing with this problem I came to the conclusion that loosening everything up; remove the table, upper and lower guide assemblies and the trunnions. Then put a blade on and properly set the tension and blade tracking. Now with the table off properly tighten the trunnions, then adjust the lower guide bearing assembly as best you can. Then loosen the lower guide bearing/trunnion mounting plate (4ea 7/16 headed hex bolts) move it around to gain the best position for the blade guides. Then carefully tighten each bolt slightly checking the guide bearing alignment as you go. If you get acceptable clearance (it will never be centered) give the bolts a good snug up. Re-check all alignments, you may have to loosen the mounting plate and move things again to reposition as needed. Now adjust the upper guide bearings. With all of that set and the blade still properly on the saw, install the table taking advantage of the play in the trunnion mounting holes to position the table with the blade in the center of the hole. Actually the price of a new Rikon 10” band saw is half the price of my bicycle or a decent set of golf clubs. The 14” Rikon model cost the same as my bike or the golf clubs. I wish I hadn’t bought this vintage band saw. Good luck with your band saw.

@@trep53 I’ll give it a try.

@@monadking2761 I appreciate that. Sounds like you have an ambitious project but why not give it a shot, right? On a side note I need to patch my lower quarters on both sides (from the B pillar to the front of the wheel arch, about as high as the wheel arch). I had to buy full quarters to get the right patch panel and once I cut that chunk cut out will be selling what remains of the quarter.

@@donshotrodgarage1717 If I haven’t done it yet in recent videos I definitely need to change my position on what this car is. There is no doubt this car took a hard hit early in its life and at time all the original eyebrow trim got trashed. My fenders are in great shape and might have been the dealer (body shop?) replacements at a time when you could still get OEM GE fenders. My inner fenders are missing edges (rust) and the lower fender extensions were completely wasted. Similarly my hood (and front grill) is in excellent shape and has to be a replacement from the wreck repair. The door skin could have also happened at the time of the wreck.

@@2camjdh the XRTT (road racer) or XR (dirt flat track)?

@@johnkelly6942 XR

@@PhilAsh-c4i I still might do that. I did end up getting a different frame. It has some rust issues at the kick ups but overall much better shape than the one that came under the car. I need to price rebuilding my Chevy rear end vs. 9” Ford and see the difference. When I got the car I didn’t expect to have to buy a new frame and also liftgate (long story on that). Trying not to spend too much..

@@rover100bunson the bike is long gone. Couldn’t be happier.

@@keepitsimplegarage-xp1kk my wife thinks I have too many projects. HAH!

@@johnkelly6942 It’s ok it just makes the conversation more interesting LOL! Keep moving forward👍🏼

@@VinoRatRodbuilds Yes. I remember when Dale Walksler showed up with that bike. It created quite a stir and people even questioned (at the time) if it was real.

@@ShotgunKidX Are you talking about what I call the “saddles”. (Stamped plates, top and bottom, seat post passes through them)?

@@johnkelly6942 yes I was. After posting, I decided to crawl through the V-Twin book online again to see if they had them. They call them a Rigid Frame Seat Post Plate Set P/N#51-0144. I’m sorry to have wasted your time but thanks for replying, and for your videos.

@@ShotgunKidX No problem at all. If V-Twin doesn’t them in stock, let me know. I have that section I cut out of a Shovelhead swingarm frame that might work for whatever it is you’re building. Thanks for watching!

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I’m out there trying to learn, not sit in momma’s basement playing video games.

@@johnkelly6942 Really old man? Trying to figure it out as you fumble around. I'm 74 now, a retired automotive machinist. Probably forgot more about H-D rigid frames before I was 16 than you could ever hope to know if you lived to be a 100.

Don’t expect I’ll ever get many views as I’m not doing “how to/instructional” videos. All I do is talk about what got done and likely next steps, then the next video will show it done or explain why it didn’t. Lot’s and lot’s of Tri-5 videos/builds (including ‘55 Nomad) so not much I could add. Also I’m bucking the trend for longer and longer videos, trying to keep mine 5 minutes (or less). If everyone I follow on UA-cam has 30-45 minute videos that’s all I would ever get done is sit on my ass and watch videos all day. My damn dogs get up around 5:00 AM and I do most of my watching early in morning. Once the sun comes up I need to get to work on my own stuff (cars, motorcycles, woodworking, etc).

I agree with you in terms of using tube vs. solid splice pins. They do have different bending characteristics and it’s better not to create a “hard spot” in the middle of a length of tube. Past couple months recovering from hand surgery so not much got done. A friend of mine is going to loan me a couple sets of crankcases so I can do some more testing on motor fit.

Thanks, I’m going to have to! I was under the car again this morning and was able to push a screwdriver right into the frame between where those reinforcement patches were welded on.