Відео

Like to ssee more builds from you Bro. these are pretty cool idea's, I did the grid lines on my Saucer section and used a few other idea's for my E.C and it looks great...thanks. please make more Trek model build series would greatly appreciate it Bro.

Yoy gonna make any more video's? I'd like to see you do a build of the Kelvin 1:1000 or Excelsior 1:1000 or hey maybe even the 1:350 Franklin. I'll buy any one of the first two kits for you to build, The Franklin is a bit pricey for me now but yeah, I'll even pay for the photo etch Bro.

This is/was a very nice kit, when it first came out ... I still have the clear kit, with the weird lilting system, still un-built. This class of ship had a hard color scream. But, when built and painted looked fantastic!

How did you do the sensor band?

I love this guy and the way he is talking…lol

Yeah I got the DLM parts for my kit from Don himself before his untimely passing. I got the kit in 2003 from a flea market in Branson Missouri. I think I bought the DLM parts and the Reliant Shuttlebay sometime in 2004-2005.

Do you remember what Resistors you used on the Red LED's in the Warp Engine Bussards ???

I swear a lot too. Stay you man. I enjoyed your frankness!

why are you cussing? ugh

Are u taking commissions

🖖😎👍

🖖😎👍

🖖😎👍A very great job well done and a very beautiful finished model indeed 👌.

🖖😎👍coming along good indeed 👌.

🖖😎👍Very cool and very well nicely done and very well informatively executed and explained in detail indeed, And I think you did a very good job on the model kit and your model came out great 👌.

I think it came out super Bro. so a couple of things were a pain thing is you got her done and she looks great...excellent job Bro.

Amazing build. The pearl stuff looks so much better than the usual aztecing decals. I have both the Polar Lights 1/1000 and the AMT 1/537 (a bit newer tool version than yours). Not built them yet. I'm thinking about picking up model building again after decades. Built models in my youth. Stopped when I was about 15. Been buying up some new models and bringing old out of the basement. The thing that makes me hesitate is the electronics. I have no idea how to do that stuff. Having to solder resistors and stuff. What works with what. No idea where to get all the various leds, smds, controllerboards etc here in Europe. Just blindly order online from US with all the extra import taxes and shipping to EU and then end up with stuff I can't use, or end up shorting it all feels scary to me. Same with all the extra photo etch parts. A lot of it I can not even find online anymore. I too want to build Qo'nos One. In even have 2 of the K'Tingas kits, but I can not find any of those photo etch parts needed. There is supposed to be released a 1/350 Qo'nos One version of Round 2's K'Tinga soon'ish. Released by Round 2 themselves, but 1/350 is a bit big to have in my home. Oh well a lot to figure out and learn I guess, if only I could start by finding the parts and things I need. I feel like living behind the Chinese wall here in EU when it comes to trying to find all this stuff. In USA it all seems to be readily available, easy to order and get sent in a padded letter, but not here. It feels like EU is being treated like some 3rd world country, due to all the stupid import taxes and such that the European Unnion has put up and is enforcing hard. Even UK is now outside EU and very expensive to order from if you live in EU.

While the original D7 studio model (acctually never called d7 until much later), originally just named the Klingon Battle Cruiser never had that type of armour or aztec pattern, nor was it ever lit, this looked nice. It looked like the missing link between D7 and K'Tinga. How it might have looked if the Star Trek Phase II TV-Series had ever been realized instead of the Motion Picture. There was even a new Enterprise model design completed for that TV-Series but never came to being used. There is an acctual model kit of K'Tinga as well, not just the 1/350 huge one, but a smaller one in scale 1/537 from AMT. It lacks some details on the bridge and such, but it's possible there are after market parts for that, just like there is for the Enterprise refit to make it more accurate. Another fun fact is that that hole in the front was never a torpedo tube launcher on the original model (it was a sensor array or something like that, been many years since I looked at the blueprints). It was turned into a torpedo tube with the K'Tingas in The Motion Picture. I often see fan production wrongly using that hole as a torpedo launcher on the TOS era Klington Battle Cruisers/D7's.

Why the profanity?

I can't do it but I'll pay someone to make it for me

Wish you would come back.

No, my question is why are you so filthy mouthed. Really unnecessary. Good work on your model kits though. Hope I can do half as well on my Enterprise -C kit.

outstanding build. Not much room for lights in that model

Q'pla! It's a shame they never did an actual K'TINGA in 1:1000 scale.

Wow.... Just wow

After you layed down the pearl paints did you clear coat before applying the decals? Would clearcoating spoil the irredescent color shift effect? I am asking because I want to try on my build but I want to finish the model with a flat clearcoat after paint and decals.

Excellent work, thanks for sharing!

Polar Lights kits improved very much since the first kits from 2003-04. The TOS Enterprise has a really bad nacelle and pylon assembly that requires lots of filling and sanding. I sure do wish they would redesign that kit!

Question, so like for the engines or main deflector, did you use both red LED and red paint and blue LED and blue paint?

Awesome. I have the same kit and decals! I am glad I saw this before I tried on my own.

Yes, why the F would you have so many? I hear the same from my wife! Jus means we have plenty of choices in what to build.

Hey! Beauty build. What size drill bits did you use? Pin vise or dremel?

Can someone use B/C and bridge decks from the 1/537 TMP Enterprise refit?

Mate, epic and beautiful model. I know this is an old video but it's given me all the motivation and advice I needed to get started and order up a kit to build. I have my heart set on a light up build and was getting a bit disappointed that the more common light builds of the 1/1400 version are rare as hell and seem to go for strong money all the time. Getting a smaller 2500 kit and giving it a go is my only real option at the moment so I'm so pleased to see that with a lot of patience, practice and time I might be able to scrape together a build that's something like your beautiful build. Great model, great video and great tips in the comments. Thanks 👍

Is this a 1/1000 instead of 1/2500

I liked your vids... wish you would do some new builds.

Wow

You did an awesome job lighting and building this little kit. I'm very impressed, never thought this little kit could be lit up. Well done!

Basically you took the d-7 and made her a ktinga

You are building a really nice model of the -C, and I am enjoying your building vlogs on it. The studio model was actually rushed for production, that's why it did not have the flashing running and navigation strobes. They also left a set of impulse engines off the saucer. which it should have had for when it separates from the secondary hull which is where the red line in the neck dorsal is. that's where the separation line is for the saucer section. so going by their rushed design the saucer would had only had thruster's which would not had gotten the saucer very far fast. So myself personally would had added the flashing lights so to be closer based to the -D as it was the next class just to make the ship look more like what we are use to seeing as the ships have always had flashing nav and strobes.... As for the way they painted the studio model. Frankly it just looks weird. The Galaxy didn't have any thing even close in anyway painted on it. nor did any ship before it have that type of paint scheme. which in my opinion makes the ship look out of phase with any starfleet vessel seen. And it should be painted closer to the color scheme of the -D. especially the lifeboat pods. they are the same shape of the -D as well as the Nebula, voyager, saber, even the -E, so they should be the same color as the one's on those ships not white. The white makes them look like huge lighted ports very close to the four white ports that were on the top of the saucer of the TOS Constitution class 1701. I have this kit which I don't intend to model as the -C. but I intend to forget the entire studio model paint scheme and do one closer to how I think it should had been to fit in with the other ships seen in the series.....and yes I also intend to add in the missing saucer impulse engines. if you look at proberts original design for this class ship it has the missing impulse engines, and the color scheme is closer to the -D. in fact it is a much better design that what was rushed together to be the -C for the episode of yesterday's Enterprise. but that is what happens when the model builders were working on a time schedule at that time.

I had a lot of trouble with the decals ripping especially the long blue stripes around the saucer edge. Never heard of micro set and micro sol I'll have to use that the next time. Thanks great job on the Enterprise C.

Awesome!!

Awesome. I just ordered this model.

Hey. I’d like to use a 6 pin connector on my next lighting project. But I’m not sure how to wire one up. Anyway you Can show me how you did it? Thanks and great build!

I have this same model. It will in no way be as cool as yours with the lights, but I love it. Well done.

I have a question about sharing screenshots of how you wired this build. I have found your wiring a great wealth of resource on wiring and would like permission to share with other Model Builders.

Very Nice - This has been just what I have been looking for in your wiring of this build. You provided all the needed wiring that a person needs to wiring this scale model. Thank you, Great Job

WOW, nice job

I love it great job with the lighting and decals.

Nicely done! I'm building this right now and agonizing over how to light the nacelles. Why did you cut off the collectors and then reattach them, and how did you get rid of the seam that is right in the front of both collectors? I'm about to cut the 'trench' for the nacelle wiring. At least you have shown me it can be done!