Відео

There are a lot of different factors that play into that but on a healthy truck we usually see a 20-30 degree drop. What are your temps now and what modifications do you have done to your truck? Bumpers, suspension, radiator etc...

This is the bolt that holds your harmonic damper on your crankshaft.

This is for 2001-2024 Duramax trucks. The 260 ft/lbs is the spec for the OEM torque to yield bolt on 2001-2005 Duramax engines, for 2006+ it is 74ft lbs then 105 degrees, which comes out to about 260 ft lbs, this is also for the OEM torque to yield bolt. Because our bolt is not torque to yield and is made from a stronger/different material than the OEM bolt it requires a higher torque value to ensure that it is properly tightened.

@@Dmaxstore Thanks, appreciate the clarification.

Yes, I would definitely do a drain and refill

At this point I would recommend that as the seal is what we see fail on the internal filters and can cause air to be sucked in with the fluid causing overheating and other concerns. Change the internal, and external and fill it up with some transynd and you'll be good to go.

No it is not

We recommend replacing at least one bank (4) at a time. If one is bad the rest are likely not far behind

@@Dmaxstore ok anything I can do to try to fix that one -5.9 balance rate

I know edge is working on it, hopefully it will be out within the next few months!

We have been corrosion testing these for months and they have held up great!

Yeah good luck with EPA

No, that does not throw a check engine light

LOL! You missed the whole point of DEF

Maybe you should clue me in? ​@@SonidoMazizo

You touching that cat more than just once or twice a year. That's for your def fluid. You're probably touching that cap every two or three fill ups. Realistically imagine buying a stupid aluminum cap instead of having that s*** deleted

Once or twice a year 😂😂😂 I love how everyone speaks with (such confidence) nowadays.

@@JG_Rock loud, confident and wrong right?

@@jaxvlogsfailflicks9253 absolutely wrong, it really depends on the truck. My buddy has a 2018 duramax and my daddy has a 2020 and both of them refill the tank every 400 miles. It ain’t cheap either. Also the systems are pretty problematic and pricy to fix. The oem only expects them to last 100k miles. Needless to say we’ll be deleting one of them this winter. I don’t think people understand what these trucks mean to people like us. I’m a concrete finisher and from 5 in the morning till 5 at night that truck is my base camp, my horse, my tool box. So what if we put a lot of money into them. I bet if I offered that guy a lambo for his life saving he’d take it. We used to be intrigued by what made us different now we are all expected to be the same. I haven’t had a full weekend off in 6 months and just got done running 14 hrs a day for almost a month straight including Sundays. I work damn hard on your tropical smoothies, homes, schools, roads, and hospitals. Sorry for the rant I know people see my truck and hate me for it but it makes me happy. Some of them guys are just flaunting daddy’s money or tryna look like someone they ain’t but most of us are just enjoying the utilitarian part of our life.

Yes, you can do a drain and refill with transynd. It is backwards compatible with dex 3 and 6 which is the spec for the trans so you’ll be good to go

That would be awesome too!

There is a bunch of stuff that you can do, from steering/suspension, drivetrain or powertrain... Just depends on what you want to achieve.

Yes it is

Yes, we carry a CST 4.5" lift for the 2020-2024 1500 trucks.

Yes, we do not recommend running a forged piston setup unless it is for a strictly race application. We have seen over 1200 hp on a set of fingers.

@@Dmaxstore i want around 2000tq but i really don't care about hp. its going in a tandem axle c7500 tow truck with a 4 door kodiak body. if it's kept below 3200rpm(probably rarely over 2800rpm) can i get 100k+ miles out of fingers cast pistons? I want to use a callies durastar crank, either boostline, socal or carillo rods, 625 head studs and arp hardware, bigger oil pump, billet mains, main girdle, s300/s400 compounds or twin s258s to a s400, frozen boost a2w intercooler, built Allison and driveline, ati balancer ect

At that power level, you are really pushing the small displacement of the Duramax engine. Our best recommendation would be to go with a larger displacement i6 diesel that was designed for that application. It is definitely possible that these pistons can hold the power but it depends on many factors as making a lot of torque low in the rpm range produces a lot of drive pressure and tuning is really going to be the deciding factor for longevity.

@Dmaxstore what would be a reliable tq number for a built 6.6 duramax or a built 6.7 cummins build? Is there a motor you recommend? I've looked at the 7.8 LG4/LF8/6HK1 Duramax/Isuzu motor but I could not find much aftermarket support for it. dt466? maybe a semi motor and auto trans? Thanks for the help, I'm a turbo LS/BBC and 4l80e guy, so this is the first big diesel project.

A Cummins X15 is in the power range that you want. I would go with something from a semi as it will be able to reliably do what you need it to do.

😂😂😂

We have not had any issues with the DPF of this truck after installing it.

More power and the features that the app allows.

Drain and refill, do not flush

No

No we did not, truck already had heated seats so we used the stock ones there but did not add the cooled seats

LB7 trucks don't require the injectors to be programmed

Nothing yet, hopefully soon.