Відео

@@TheRedwolf190 2-3 hours. Let the engine cool down

@@murderedinkrecordstm9353 If you want to use the OE software, you’ll still need to download the software on your laptop. The iScan will emulate the pass-thru interface to communicate with the vehicle. In this case instead of buying the Honda’s dealership MVCI or Denso pass-thru device, you can use the iScan and it will emulate Honda MVCI. The same goes for Mercedes, Toyota, Land Rover etc. it will act as a dealer level interface emulator

@@dmvmechanic3741 I see ok, in your personal experience is the iscan worth it? I have the Autel ms919 with the jbox and is great I’m looking into getting another scan tool that maybe can do more or similar plus a little extra but not sure which route to go. I do some programming and am interested in doing it for other brands so that’s why I was considering the iscan but I’m trying to figure out if the scan tool will give me a little more than the autel other than the software emulation.. I mean the jbox from autel can be used for sps2 and jlr softwares as a pass thru Won’t really work with dodge or Honda I think but not sure

What trouble codes are you getting?

@@dmvmechanic3741 esses 3 códigos C174AFB, C163691, B182700

@@dmvmechanic3741 C174AFB, C163691, B182700 sao esses codigos.

UA-cam stops it right at the 59/60 second mark for short videos. I posted a longer video in regular long video.

Thank you

Thank you

Yea not too bad

Auto Clinic in Falls Church

@@assyrianwarrior7901 It could very likely be the same problem as the parts are almost identical and may be built by the same company

If the electric fan runs at high speed you may have a network issue or a PCM issue.

That’s great info, good to know!!

Do you have a link to the video series you’re talking about? My TLX is having this same issue

Fixed mine!

ua-cam.com/video/i_UONy-TNDQ/v-deo.htmlsi=bJlDj57UvEQfow9d

​@@ryanhelms1390ua-cam.com/video/i_UONy-TNDQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Kkfvd-EhQ8id4Noz

Is it the plastic or metal one ?

Did you use the wire tool to unlock the detent on the tensioner? If you don't release the ratchet mechanism inside the tensioner, it will stay locked in the extended position and you will not compress.

@@LynxStarAuto it was the backside that doesn’t have the ratcheting tensioner. I had the plastic tool and did end up getting to release after awhile. Got it all finished and now I’m dealing with cam alignment code/slow cam sensor code and occasional misfires. Had the blocks in so it couldn’t have jumped time but going to pull and double check timing marks. Best guess is a phaser crapped out or the bank 2 sensor

@@kmilli0313what did you find out ?

Try both and see which one fits the best

You need to have it tested and diagnosed in order to know for sure. They need to check the alarm trigger event and see which component in the car caused your alarm to engage.

@@dmvmechanic3741same issue brought it to dealer they said door lock actuator first, replaced, same issue, went back cause payed for diag, now they say ignition switch, asked for there pin point tests and they said they just looked at recent alarm events, I can bet you 5000 is the KEYLESS CONTROL UNIT as I’ve noticed this issue occur in colder weather and humid areas and also have disconnected ignition switch and light flashing still occurs

Yes the factory Honda/Acura special tool works much better but if you’re in a bind you can use the socket shown in the video

Pure luck, while we were diagnosing/testing circuits we had the ignition on and the P (ark) and C (comfort) illuminated. Once that illuminated, we cranked it and she started right up

I would most certainly check into that first

Remove the driver’s dashboard lower cover. It’s located to the right of the steering shaft/steering column. It’s the control unit with 3 connectors on it.

It ended up being the gear selector module

U will need to rest turn it key to 2nd position step on gas ⛽️ paddle for 30sc do not touch anything and turn key off release ur foot slowly than it will work than start the car next turn key again for 3-5min it will reset everything good to go try it u need to do this every year

@@amiko7204sorry can you explain this again

That only resets the gearbox, it does not clear or fix faulty codes ​@@amiko7204

Our shop charged about $1850 for full works including machine shop job. Problem went away and customer was satisfied

Hell naw. 2.7/3.7 is arguably the worst engine they ever made. 3.3/3.8/4.0 you have an argument there.

I’m using the Honda i-HDS software

Don't need to to replace the cams

Yes, once you’ve done more than one they’re all easy

Definitely better than GM 3.6 from my observation. About to do the same for the exhaust cam passenger side. And it's a pin that allows you to only line it up one way it seems inside the phaser

carfax!

You can pick one of these up anywhere online. Search for timing kit tool 3.6 pentastar

You can find this set all over eBay, they have plastic ones and aluminum ones. I have the plastic but I hear the aluminum ones work better

Northern Virginia

I'm glad it could help, you can unplug the battery without any problems.

Northern Virginia, DC metropolitan area

@@dmvmechanic3741 got it sorted. Thanks buddy

@@dmvmechanic3741 I have the same problem in my MB and live in Fredericksburg va send me your phone Number or where are you located to fix it

Autel Ultra with active subscription and internet access

Yes it will need to be programmed, it’s not plug and play.

Client decided to go ahead and fix it and it's running great. We replaced the headgasket just on the Front head and used new cyliner head bolts (8 bolts). You could reuse the original ones if you'd like but we decided to get new ones from Acura. Mahle bolts are good also. I have another case study with same issue on a different MDX with 168k miles, also Front head gasket (the one close to radiator). We did the same fix on it and it's running great. I'll post the video soon. The key to finding this issue is allowing the engine to cool down, apply pressure to coolant system at 1 bar. Use a borescope camera to check inside the suspect cylinder for coolant intrusion.