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@@krlos_amg to my knowledge this works with zx2 I haven’t had much time working on those however the process is the same.

You have to drop the tank to get to it. It sits on top next to the fuel pump.

@@ranger.auto.repair how would I check to see if it's that? I already bought the sensor. Car is throwing p0089 codes and p228d codes. I swapped the HighPFP, and the Fuel Rail Sensor, and it's still throwing them. I'm honestly lost as to what it could be aside from this.

@@ranger.auto.repair you can't take out the rear seat or access it through a panel on the trunk?

No, those don’t have access doors. You can try changing the fuel pump driver module located in the trunk. I’d try that before trying to access the tank sensor, those rarely go bad, the driver module goes bad often because it’s in the trunk. There’s no airflow.

@@ranger.auto.repair I'm just trying to pinpoint where my p0089 and p228d code are coming from. Like I stated, I replaced the high pressure fuel pump, and also the fuel rail sensor, and I'm still getting the codes. Just kinda stuck as to what it might be so thought I'd try this.

You're welcome!

Actually no, when I recorded this it was during the hottest time of the year here and it gets really humid so I waited until later in the day to record.

Yes fast way to tell is to turn the ignition on and if there’s no LED display for the shifter showing on the dashboard and you can move the shifter from Park down and nothing happens then the little clip that holds the switch rod to the “rooster comb” has broken and you’ll need to replace it. I found while doing that that the plastic clip is more likely to break than the switch is to fail. If you need a part number I can see if I have it written down and I can send that in a comment. Double check this by dropping the on line I did in the video and you will see it real quickly.

@@ranger.auto.repair Thanks for your insight! Unfortunately, I’m still unable to shift into any gears because the gear selector is stuck. Like yours my gear selector light does not illuminate on the screen as well. Additionally, the key keeps getting stuck in the ignition, so I replaced the ignition, but there was no change. I tried a trick I found on UA-cam, where I connected a jumper between the positive and negative battery terminals (with the battery unhooked) to drain all power and reset the ECM. It actually worked for about 5 starts, but after 10 minutes, it went back into limp mode. Again..., there’s no gear indicator light on the dash, and it won’t crank or start again. I even installed a new, programmed ECM and tried the key relearn method from your video, but it's still stuck in limp mode. Any further suggestions would be appreciated!

You’ll have to try and get codes out of it and work them, sounds to me there’s a comm fault and possibly it’s trying to set anti-theft. Find someone with a tech 2 scan tool or one that will read deep inside the pcm and bcm and you’ll find your problem.

​@@ranger.auto.repair I just connected my Foxwell scanner (it’s a more affordable model), and it gave me a P1682 code, indicating a malfunctioning ignition switch. However, I just replaced the ignition switch a few days ago, so I'm not sure what the issue could be.

The ignition switch might need to be programmed, if you have a mdi module or a gateway with an obd2 connection log in to acdelcotds.com and with a laptop get a vin slot for SPS and try to program it through the body module, that’s about all I can tell you. The code means it doesn’t match the vin with the body module and so it activates the theft module. If you can get the vin to match the switch to the body module you should be good after that.

That code is for the fuel pump driver module, I believe it is located in the trunk on the driver side behind the carpet, the driver has become corrupted and needs replaced, this module shouldn’t require any programming.

Clear the code and if it comes back then I’d change the injector.

You're welcome 😊

Well sure! There’s two types of steering racks, one where the inner tie rods are fixed to the rack and the whole rack gets replaced, and the conventional style where you can remove the inner tie rod. On the removable type, you will need a special tool called an inner tie rod removal tool, you can rent it from your local O’Reilly or you can buy it from harbor freight. It comes with crows feet of different sizes and you find the one that fits the flats in the end of the tie rod and lock that into the tool, then using either a 3/8 or 1/2 drive ratchet (depending on the tool) you turn the tie rod loose then once you broke the torque you can turn it out by hand. Then replacement is the reverse with you adding some blue loctite to the threads of the new tie rod.

Couple things come to mind, fuel being burned in the exhaust which is dangerous, or it’s really humid and your intake is pulling in water and burning it, smell the exhaust, if it smells like fuel you could have an injector failing, if it’s no smell or it feels like water, check the seals on the air box and the air intake tube for any place water or humidity can get in, that’s all I can think of given the information.

​@@ranger.auto.repairthank you

Takes quite a while to show coolant loss on the focus with a head gasket coolant leak. Pull the plugs and see if one of your piston tops is clean. If so you know your culprit. Warpage is the issue with aluminum heads. I had the issue and stop leak the copper variety worked. I drive it normally if you didn't it would return I'm sure. As with the PVC there is nothing fun about removing and replacing the head, Exclamation point. I normally don't do it but one day I did floor my Focus at an intersection, I made it about a 1/4 mile and looked back and could not believe what I was looking at, I saw a small stream of white smoke coming from the back of my car but the intersection (4 lane in all directions) was completely filled filled with a cloud and and nobody could move it was that thick. For a number of years I had lost about 16 oz a year. Small pinhole is all it takes. Worth looking at.

If you can find a diagram for splice pack 201 follow how I did it in the video, or if you can get a diagram start pulling fuses until you find the offending sensor. As for diagrams I don’t know how much help I can be.

Make sure your colored links are right on the mark or it will give a code for timing correlation. P0013 and P0014 means your off a tooth on the cam side

@@ranger.auto.repair I'll double check that. Anyway to realign the chain if the chain is off but the phasers are on point?

If the cam on the intake (front) is on its mark then what I did was got it lined up and then look at the exhaust cam, I fixed it by getting enough slack to “jump” the chain and lined it back up. Service information says if any timing codes are present after the job is done, to take it all back down and start over. If the codes for the intake cam then you do have to take it all back down to make sure that the pistons and valves don’t come into contact with each other.

@@ranger.auto.repair I'll check it again. Rides real nice now. Alot quieter and haven't noticed any power loss or anything out of the ordinary. From my understanding the P0014 code is exhaust side. Only popped up after driving maybe 3-4 miles after doing the job. Is it possible to remove the tensioner to realign the chain? I have no problem getting a new tensioner if needed. Just trying to avoid tearing everything down again if I don't have to.

Yep that’s what I did, I took the tensioner out of the back of the head and reset it then moved the chain then put the tensioner in it and released it. Ran great no codes. Sometimes you just lift the chain off the cam and with a 24mm wrench with go forward or back until the marks line up then put it back together. Those tensioners can be reset, you take the snap ring out and on the back of the center rotate it 90 degrees until the spring is compressed then put it back together with the snap ring.

If it’s the 4 cylinder the compressor should have a bolt on the end that adjusts it. It’s been awhile being I took the ac off my truck years ago. There’s a bolt on the front you loosen then you can usually pull up the belt and it will come off.

I buy it from my local parts store, I never use Amazon, have no need for it.

Thanks for that!

The socket I used is called an oil sensor socket they sell it at most parts stores. It’s a special socket made for oil sensors used on GM engines. They make a short and a long. I used the short one.

I’m guessing you’re trying to tell me one of the wires is ripped of the light socket. If there’s enough wire to splice use weatherproof butt connectors and strip and reconnect the wires.

Did your alternator have bits of belt on the front of it because my wife’s Kia, the one in the video she says it squeals in the morning then when it’s warm it runs fine.

@@ranger.auto.repair It sure does have belt material all over the front of alternator, and I was making all sure it wasn't something else,....black powdery all over the front of alternator. Wasn't nothing I done, have owned the car for eleven almost twelve years, always note to put in belts with proper tension, not overdone, etc, have done three belts sets in those years,....strange I was replacing my other alternator to avoid this issue!

@@budwhite3570 hmm I wonder if I’m about to go down the same road you are..

@@ranger.auto.repair You said the belt squeals more when cold,...that was the same with mine,...worse when cold, leading up to total failure,...I ran the engine more than I should have before starting the work,...sort of stopped squealing a little when warm, then every so often a bad squeal,..but its fried, I assure you the "brand new" bearings....I am so disgusted,...trying to find ways of not taking off completely so many things. I needed this car for another trip thirty miles away and back to pick up some medical paperwork for the VA,...couldn't go, but I trust my old truck for in town till I complete its work.

I’m going to pull the belts and spin the pulley if I hear even the slightest noise all hells gonna break loose..I’ve had issues with alternators in cars in the past and I have no patience for it. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Don’t touch the spindle nut. It’s got nothing to do with the brake rotor. If your rotor has three Phillips screws in it or T-30’s take those out if it don’t come off the rotors stuck on the hub and you got a bang it from the backside with a flat mallet hammer.

@@ranger.auto.repair Oh! It's a good thing, lol....I was about to give it my all to get that off, lol. But, I now have a couple of other things I have going on if you have the time to offer some instruction on perhaps? I don't want to take up your time, brother, I just have no one else and have no clue what I m doing. I replaced that section of brake line that was bad behind the passenger's side front, from the Junction Box on back about 31" because I had to take it out further beyond the rupture because I couldn't get the line cutter in there to perform the cut. Anyway, I ran the new line back through the clips and married the two lines with a brass compression fitting against the advice of others because I can't afford what they're telling me to do and I live in the Appalachian Mountains where no one seems to know how to do brakes and the shops are outrageously beyond my resources. My compression link is gushing fluid when I try to bleed the brakes. But, check this out, my brakes failed back in April nd I was approached and helped, miraculously by a brake specialist with all the tools already on his truck and he helped me. I got to thinking about that and went to check what he used to repair that section, and he has the same thing I used in that location. I only need to make that work until I get the coil of wire from Amazon next week. Can you tell me everything that I need with the coil and then how do I make this compression thing work until that comes in? Thanks, brother, and I hope you have a great day

@@ranger.auto.repair Hey, also...I put the Caliper on that same front passenger's side and the new pads as well and the back pad that is supposed to work against the pistons in the dual piston caliper is rattling back and forth and the caliper itself slides back and forth on the two slide pins. Why does the driver's side not do that? Is it because of the air in the lines with the ruptured line?

@@aaronregina3156 my rule with brake lines is one continuous line from fitting to fitting, I usually go to O’Reilly and get the line coiled for $25, then I get the fittings, I have a flaring tool to put the flares on the ends with the fittings and I fit it all together, reference my Kia brake lines video if you want to see how I do it. I don’t put compression fittings in line unless there’s no options. Take your old fittings with you if you can to match up for new ones, Cadillac brakes use an ABS module and there’s a bleeding procedure, some require a scan tool, some are like the Chevy counterparts that you can manual bleed, if air has gotten into the ABS module it will affect the calipers, and be a pain to bleed. That’s all that comes to mind and I hope it helps. Let me know if you need anything.

@@ranger.auto.repair Hey, Ranger! I truly appreciate your help and I found a coil of line on Amazon that is my 1/4" line, a flare tool (which I already have, technically), a bender tool and all the fittings. I think it comes with something else but can't remember. Anyways, I'm in a spot where I have to have it delivered because I have no other car, no friends, no help (which is fine) and cannot get to the parts store. Unfortunately, Oreillys only does same day delivery for commercial customers and they charge tremendous amounts for shipping, lol. If I was in the same area as you, I would gladly pay you to do this. I am just not inclined the way I should be.

They can’t be fixed, to fix them would require a kit with the springs and rubber washers in it and no such kit exists. When the valve fails it’s made to be replaced and not repaired.

Naaaaaaaaaahhhhhh. This car is very easy to work on. This and the fuel pump are about the only things that are bad on the car. I have an 06 and i thank the engineers ever damn time. They knew they had 2 years left and they made these cars well.

Thank you! I use brake parts cleaner for cleaning certain parts, you can also use compressed air if you have it available.

Thank you 😊​@@ranger.auto.repair

You can but it’s easier to use the double piston tool, because as you press the pistons in with a brake pad and c clamp as I have done many times, it takes a toll on the clamp and I’ve had them break in half under the pressure.

On some you can, the one I got from ford rattled

Well hello!!! I did this procedure because Ford service says that the PCV valve must be changed every 100,000 miles in order for the vehicle to comply with US emissions regulations because the PCV valve will build up with oil and carbon and will stop working and that will cause engine issues such as unusual oil consumption and higher tailpipe emissions. I hope this helps you out! Please come back and let me know!

@@ranger.auto.repair Hi and thanks for your reply, my car was poorly maintained and is on 140k miles, it still pulls well so I don't think it's the piston rings but I imagine a faulty pcv valve will play havoc with the crankcase pressure and possibly force oil under pressure UP past the piston rings to be burnt.

Code 24 is Vehicle Speed Sensor error, usually happens when the wrong size tires are used on a vehicle. This sensor is used on determining when to shift the electronic transmission. If this code is present on its own, check tire size and if it’s correct then replace the vehicle speed sensor. If the code is with other codes, repair the other codes first.

Make sure your hydraulic pump is full, just because it will move the bucket doesn’t mean it has enough to steer, check for any obstructions around the knuckle, sometimes a rock will get lodged in there and can cause it to not want to turn, you could try tapping on the valves to get them unstuck, that’s about all I can think of, I had mine stick to one direction when I got it and it turned out to be low on fluid, and I also had a huge air pocket trapped in the steering ram.