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Tek Tech
United States
Приєднався 15 вер 2014
Testing "High Capacity" vs. Normal Capacity Rechargeable Lithium 14500 Batteries
The normal capacity 14500 batteries of 740 mAh are made by Sanyo. The "high capacity" batteries were three times cheaper and claim to have 1200 mAh. But is it worth it?
Переглядів: 307
Відео
Cheap digital battery testers compared: Aneng BT189 vs. Aneng BT168 Max. Get the 168 Max!
Переглядів 27721 день тому
I recommend the Aneng BT168 Max out of the two testers. The other tester may have a design flaw, demonstrated in this video from Julian Ilett: ua-cam.com/video/oFkUuGRWDvs/v-deo.html I tried and was not able to replicate that particular flaw; perhaps because the tester has been redesigned?
Wheelchair Solid Tires Replacement - The Nice & Easy Way
Переглядів 63Місяць тому
The tire in the hot water is a single larger wheel tire folded in three. This is probably the easiest way to mount new solid tires in a wheelchair. Hot water softens the material. You still need some adult strength in your arms and possible help from another person. Also use gloves to save your hands from direct contact with hot materials.
Why Does a Silent Continuous Sweep Quartz Clock Deplete the Battery So Fast?
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Місяць тому
The construction of a silent continuous sweep motion quartz clock is almost exactly the same as a regular "ticking" quartz clock. The only difference is in the frequency of Voltage supplied to the coil of the Lavet motor and the corresponding mechanical gear ratio. The seconds hand in the silent clock makes 16 little steps per second instead of a single tick per second, which is much more quiet...
Hakko 808 Desoldering Pump Repair
Переглядів 1472 місяці тому
Edit Successful repair link: ua-cam.com/video/Zi1KoiY7cv8/v-deo.html This Hakko 808 was manufactured in 2012. These tools are made in Japan with great attention to details. The heating element is the weak spot. Original Hakko parts are no longer manufactured and almost unavailable. However, a Chinese heating element S-993A can replace the Japanese Hakko original. The additional cost of about $2...
Programming Temperature Controller XY-WT04 with Thermocouple
Переглядів 2062 місяці тому
This video shows how to program XY-WT04 thermocouple temp. controller.
The Clapper repair
Переглядів 952 місяці тому
The Clapper started acting up: whenever it worked fine on the 2x clap outlet, it wouldn't work on the 3x clap outlet, and vice versa. I decided to open it up and replace the components that tend to depreciate with time: electrolytic capacitors. There are two of them inside: 100 uF 16V and 470 uF 35V. The Clapper worked properly again after replacing both caps.
Yamaha Stagepas 300 - full repair of audio amp module part # AAX6207R
Переглядів 4252 місяці тому
List of parts to replace: 2x MOSFET Transistor STP14NF12FP Resistor SMD 0.056 Ohms 1W Fan 50x50x10mm 12V Fan 40x40x10mm 12V I ordered all parts from DigiKey with updated substitutes for the MOSFET transistors: 2x STF20NF20 - DigiKey part nr. 497-5811-5-ND Resistor 0.056 Ohm 1W part nr. 311-0.056TCT-ND 50x50x10 Fan part nr. 259-MF50101V3-1000U-A99-ND 40x40x10 Fan part nr. 259-1796-ND 1/4" Audio ...
Cracking Combination Key Lock Box: HUANLANG AMIR WJYMRO TEUEN ANKILO POMYDODU SISAV ORIA RESET-G14
Переглядів 2802 місяці тому
The turn-knob key lock box is sold under one of the following "brand" names: HUANLANG, AMIR, WJYMRO, TEUEN, ANKILO, POMYDODU, SISAV, ORIA, RESET-G14. It seems that the known brand names stay away from this design. Current new price on Amazon ranges 25-30 dollars apiece. These should not be considered secure because the opening combination is very easy to discover by anyone, and with a minimum e...
Yamaha Stagepas 300 no audio - quick fix. Bad power output module part # AAX6207R
Переглядів 5043 місяці тому
This is an emergency "repair" allowing to use the unit temporarily with just one of the two speakers. I placed an order for the failed parts: 1. SMD 1W resistor size 2512, value: 0.056 Ohm, 2. Two MOSFET transistors: STP14NF12FP The cost of the listed replacement parts is around $10. However, the entire plug-in power module AAX6207R can be purchased as a replacement part for about $150.
Viscount Chorum 90 organ pedalboard repair. Pre-2020 version. The 2024 version is greatly improved!
Переглядів 1973 місяці тому
This is how I repaired the pedalboard with some non-functioning notes. This particular organ was manufactured before 2020. The good news is that the newest versions of Viscount brand pedalboards have a redesigned switching method, which now is almost fail-proof. Each pedal in the newest version moves a tiny magnet toward an encapsulated reed switch on the PCB. Those switches are rated for milli...
DT620 Timer Repair
Переглядів 1153 місяці тому
After a year of service the Intermatic DTR620 timer no longer worked. This was used for landscaping lights at the house. The display was fine, the ON and OFF direct button still worked, but the timer would no longer turn ON anything programmed. I decided to look inside and try to repair it before spending 50 dol. on a new one.
Intermatic DT620 Timer - quick program check
Переглядів 1604 місяці тому
This video shows how to double-check what is programmed on DT620 Timer without changing any settings.
Intermatic DT620 Timer - Programming ON and OFF for landscaping lights from DUSK to DAWN
Переглядів 1214 місяці тому
This video shows step by step of the least intuitive part of the programming of the DT620 Timer. For the initial setup of the time, date, and the time zone please see the following: ua-cam.com/video/wbxMVIVj8AM/v-deo.html Once you set up the time, you might want to program the timer for a daily simple ON at DUSK as "Event #1" followed by OFF at DAWN as "Event #2." Then you just skip the remaini...
Amana (Maytag) Gas Range Oven Door Removal Model AGR5712ADB
Переглядів 3,2 тис.6 місяців тому
Keep oven door in slightly open position and lift it up. Put back in reverse. Note: If you open the oven door down to horizontal position, you will not be able to remove it.
Plugload Advanced Power Strip - Review and Teardown
Переглядів 2947 місяців тому
Plugload Advanced Power Strip - Review and Teardown
Use 60Hz American Wahl 120V Corded Clippers in 50Hz Countries.
Переглядів 2798 місяців тому
Use 60Hz American Wahl 120V Corded Clippers in 50Hz Countries.
Replace noisy CPU fan - quick and easy way. Be quiet! fan.
Переглядів 4268 місяців тому
Replace noisy CPU fan - quick and easy way. Be quiet! fan.
Greenlite 7 Outlet Advanced Power Strip. Simple Mains Power Sensing Switch. Teardown & Schematic
Переглядів 6798 місяців тому
Greenlite 7 Outlet Advanced Power Strip. Simple Mains Power Sensing Switch. Teardown & Schematic
DIY Socket for Garage Torsion Spring - Home Made
Переглядів 4319 місяців тому
DIY Socket for Garage Torsion Spring - Home Made
Weller WE1010 Soldering Station LED Pilot Light Modification
Переглядів 1,5 тис.9 місяців тому
Weller WE1010 Soldering Station LED Pilot Light Modification
IR Thermometer DESOMIYE NJTY T600. Tear down, current measurements, and adding new battery switch
Переглядів 1,5 тис.9 місяців тому
IR Thermometer DESOMIYE NJTY T600. Tear down, current measurements, and adding new battery switch
Greenlite Tier 1 - Advanced Power Strip Review + Tear Down
Переглядів 33810 місяців тому
Greenlite Tier 1 - Advanced Power Strip Review Tear Down
DIY Crankshaft Pulley Holder, Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool - Home Made
Переглядів 8 тис.11 місяців тому
DIY Crankshaft Pulley Holder, Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool - Home Made
Intermatic T101, T102, T103, T104, T105, or T106 Timer Switch Repair - Quick and Cheap
Переглядів 2 тис.11 місяців тому
Intermatic T101, T102, T103, T104, T105, or T106 Timer Switch Repair - Quick and Cheap
Onkyo Receiver TX-8011 Has No Power - Easy Test And Fuse Replacement
Переглядів 3,2 тис.11 місяців тому
Onkyo Receiver TX-8011 Has No Power - Easy Test And Fuse Replacement
Elenco Playground 130 Repair and Review
Переглядів 30911 місяців тому
Elenco Playground 130 Repair and Review
2006 Garmin Nuvi 350 Battery Replacement
Переглядів 19611 місяців тому
2006 Garmin Nuvi 350 Battery Replacement
[Part 1/2] Black & Decker B1600 bread maker repair + test. Old triac AC03D replaced with new BT138
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Рік тому
[Part 1/2] Black & Decker B1600 bread maker repair test. Old triac AC03D replaced with new BT138
[Part 2/2] Black & Decker B1600 bread maker bake test after repair
Переглядів 310Рік тому
[Part 2/2] Black & Decker B1600 bread maker bake test after repair
Hello, I just want to let you know I did it and it works. Weird, I wrote a comment but I dont remember if I posted it or now. I posted a video and mentioned you in my video.
Amazing job! ua-cam.com/video/Zi1KoiY7cv8/v-deo.html I will need to sit down and finish the planned retrofit of my broken Hakko 808. The quality of your video is so impressive! And you included every important detail of the replacement procedure. I will post your link wherever I see someone reporting broken heater in Hakko 808. Thanks, bro! And congratulations on the successful repair!
@@tektech1065 I posted the directions on how to calibrate the heater in my video, If you have one of those soldering iron tip thermometers, you can use that to calibrate the iron and not worry about the thermocoupler. The complete S-993A was only $100 USD, and it includes a nice stand, honestly, its not that bad. I really didnt want to destroy the Hakko in case an orig heating element pops up somewhere. I forgot to mention in my video, I used a Q-tip swab and put some Armorall on the two rubber diaphragms. Mine are 25 years old, if those were to break, I definitely will retire it.
Tek Tech thanks so much for the video and schematic. I have a part I can't identify on the right amp module. Would you be able to help? Thanks
Sure! Both amp modules are identical (and swappable). Can you see any markings, number etc., on the board? Could you compare the two modules and identify the corresponding markings on the other one?
thank mr,,,,,,,,,
i had something similar in the 80s when i was getting into electronics, it was from tandy and i had so much fun with it. so much fun building basic circuits but understanding how they were built and how they operated. fast forward 40 years. i have a masters in electrical engineering and i still feel the same joy i felt as a kid when a circuit works like its design. some people never grow up :)
Congratulations on your degree! Playing with the basic stuff I keep admiring the ingenuity of early electrical and electronics inventors. Anyos Jedlik is among the greatest with his original invention of an electric motor and then a dynamo.
Gracias por la info, nosotros los mecatrónicos somos bien cuidadosos a la hora de buscar un enchufe que cumpla con los requisitos aptos, ese disyuntor de 15A se me hace una buena protección
Hi Sir thank you for the video I'm getting constant beeping on my device. It shows EAA on display and it's blinking. I guess EAA is some error but I can't figure out what could be. I have the original K thermocouple and my multimeter K thermocouple but not lucky to solve it or find some information about that error
Interesting! I don't see the code EAA at all on this particular controller's display. Let me ask: 1. Is your controller XY-WT04 or a different model? 2. Are you able to enter the settings function at all? 3. Does the beeping continue when the thermocouple is disconnected? 4. Could you short the thermocouple terminals with a piece of wire and see if the beeping continues on? In my controller the alarm can go on only in two situations: under temp. and over temp. But only when I set the alarm to go on, like at 3:22
THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU SOO MUCH!!!! I’ve had my Hakka 808 since 1999, used occasionally a few times, looks near mint condition. Tried to use it a few days ago and noticed the heating element died and I can’t find a replacement. Was considering the $360 FR-301 or take my chances with a $100 S-993A from Amazon. As I checked out the S-993A desoldering pump, I noticed the heating element looked quite similar to the Hakko but it had 4 wires. Was gonna give up on the 25 yo Hakko and put it to rest until I saw your video. Liked!!! Faved!!! Saved!!! Commented!!! and Subscribed!!!
Thank you! Would you perhaps post a video (even a short one) if it works for you? The Japanese pump in 808 is of top quality but the idea of having heater without a thermocouple to limit the temp. was a disaster. I will soon post a new video where I will retrofit my broken 808 with this Chinese heater and new tips from the S-993A and an actual proper temp. controller, the same as here: ua-cam.com/video/Y8-SJ20jm8Y/v-deo.html
@@tektech1065 Thanks for the reply. Let me begin with a short synopsis... (not sure what happened but I replied earlier but it never posted) After noticing it wasnt heating up, I checked the element... no continuity, then plugged it in to check voltage to the heater w meter, none. I was assuming it was the rectifier/thyristor, AC03D or bad component on circuit board. At that point, I was contemplating the Hakko's last rites. Did a little more research on youtube and found this video first by KB1UIF which describes the circuit (I sold my scope a few years ago): ua-cam.com/video/eniR4AkUo_c/v-deo.htmlsi=0PSvSLjVWcmeR3L1 Then I saw your video which confirmed the 993 element was a close fit (and omit the other 2 wires) and ordered the element and tips from Aliexpress. You mentioned about the temp runout sans thermocoupler... In the Hakko manual, it describes how to calibrate the iron with the two potentiometers. KB1UIF confirms the circuitry pulses the current to the element to control temps. When I receive the element, I'm going to try it out to see if it works. I will definitely be making a youtube video on this endeavor, and will give credit to both you and KB1UIF. If you can retrofit the thermocoupler into the Hakko, I will most likely do the same if this doesn't work and just keep it on the bench. Delivery of the element is going to be in a week or so. I will definitely keep you updated. Thanks once again. *** Forgot to also mention*** Was trying to figure out which connectors they used on the element so I didnt have to cut the orig off... I have a JST SM 2.54 female crimp that will accept the short male round pin (which I thought was molex but not).
The one I have looks different. It's the 7 outlet that they have on their website so I'm thinking it is newer. Still suffers from the same issue unfortunately. I had my PC as the control outlet and I typically leave it's power supply on. I heard the clicking for a few days now, but I didn't realize what was happening until I actually saw my peripherals turn on and off. I'm hoping they aren't permanently damaged. I think they should not advertise TV/PC as a primary use case given this issue. And that was the use case they gave me at habitat for humanity. They should warn that switch mode power supplies are not ideal as a control.
Those are convenient, but I always use a good multimeter. Fluke is too expensive, unless you're an electrician or run a tech repair business. You could also retrofit any battery housing into a battery tester by using a cheap voltmeter or multimeter and have leads connected to housing output terminals/wires. All in all, I think that the BT189 unit is more user friendly and convenient because it tells inexperienced people where to slot the battery they want to test.
Perfect....did exactly what you did in the video and it worked perfect. Got my o-ring at Ace Hardware
O-rings are easier to get than specific rubber belts 👍
Thank you for the video!! I had this same problem and fixed it by watching your video! I used my neighbors pool pump who's house is getting demolished. Pulled his part and now we are running. I really appreciate you taking the time to post this.
This fix should double its mileage 👍
Thank you
Great video.
amazing
They sent me a 12v led pilot light that should work same way to the voltage regulator right? I hate sending this stuff back im ready to just do this project already
All you can do is check it out. Good luck!
The little Denon speakers sounded much better. Those JBL sounded muddy
Got one silent sage quartz wall clock from my friend as wedding gift. Worked fine for 5 years with me replacing the battery twice or thrice. Finally 6 months back it was not working and I removed all the gears and put them back. It worked for few days to a week and then suddenly stopped. I even changed the battery but it refuses to work properly. I was thinking of just replacing the mechanism. What are your thoughts on this ?
The battery connects to the printed circuit board via two steel springs which press against the board. You may try to take it apart again and clean the two contact pads on the board with Q-tip and Deoxit or rubbing alcohol. Look for signs of oxidation on the surface of the contact points - it's a common thing in quartz clocks. A more permanent fix would be an advanced "brain surgery" on the clock: tightly wind a piece of thin magnet wire around each spring and solder its end to the board. I showed it briefly in this video: ua-cam.com/video/VGN-xoHSqTA/v-deo.html You could also just replace the mechanism but then the original hands may or may not fit. Good luck!
Amazing video 👏 understood very well 🎉
are those 1.5 mm or 2.0 mm female plugs with the wires? The resister is connected to the black ground lead wire only right ?Did you solder the wires to the voltage regulator? how did you connect them? There is a few times I left my iron on and forgot to turn it off its very dangerous I agree that you would think they added LED lights to the screen in newer models by now or a pilot light indicator. I bought my iron 6 months ago. I need to get this done like you this is nice my friend and very clean. Thank you so much for all this
I don't know what exact size plug that was, just as long as it fits snugly on the pins of the LED. You can also just solder the wires to the LED. The current limiting 160 Ohm resistor in series can be connected to either one of the two wires. I found that the 5V regulator was the easiest component to tap power for the LED. And, of course, I needed another soldering iron to make those solder connections directly to the pins of that regulator.
Weller should know better
do you know at least what guage the wire was I think they are 2.54 jst plugs im trying to buy them on amazon im just going to wire strip the red positive twist on the resistor to that wire then solder the resistor after and use heat shrink is it 22 awg guage? I dont want to mess up the pcb
@@nikobobich9726 22 AWG is pretty thick, but it will work. I would use something extra small since the current is 20 mA or less.
Why 0.5Hz and not 1Hz? Is it a tick/tock mechanism? The only clock movements (square box, battery along bottom) that I have taken apart don't have a minute hand!!! 😁
Good question about the 0.5, or 1/2 Hz. The coil of the Lavet motor gets square wave AC like this: ⎍⎍⎍⎍. Every rise is one step of the motor equal to 1 second, and every fall is the next 1 second step. Therefore one full square wave cycle lasts 2 seconds = 0.5 Hz. That's the nature of the Lavet stepping motor - simple and genius. If the clock had a digital display HH:MM:SS then 1 Hz would be perfect to drive it.
What an absolute Legend you are, not only did you post all the details for the parts and scenatics in the comments, but you even follow it up with this. I dropped my moms amp today and one of these resistors got pierced. You saved me so much time. Thank you a lot!
Was it really worth the bother? I mean who expects to use some included low quality carbon zinc batteries for long? I assume they are old to begin with and only use them to not let them go to waste, but then I readily switch to using alkaline or low self discharge NiMH, and in the case of the NiMH, then what I wonder, and wish you had mentioned in your video, is what is the minimum voltage this T600 will tolerate, since the nominal voltage of NiMH is only 1.2V and I have often seen in the past with cheap chinese products that run off 2 x AAA or AA, that they tend to not be able to fully drain the cells before they quit working, so in the case of 2 x AAA, if it quits working before this series of 2 drops all the way to 2.0V, it wasted some of the capacity. Typically what I find with the poorly designed products using too few cells is they start to malfunction around 1.3V per cell, and while that is tolerable with low drain devices that I seldom use, otherwise that is annoying when using NiMH. Instead of throwing switches into things which won't solve that, I am instead considering finding some little 3V solar panels and just epoxy those onto devices, wired direct to the NiMH batteries. Granted, then I have to store the devices where they are exposed to light a good % of the time, so not a perfect solution. I wish more of them used 1 x 18650 cell instead. Even though that seems like a large battery for a device like this, it wouldn't necessarily contribute that much to a larger handle beyond what is comfortable to hold, and they are so ubiquitous in laptops and power tool batteries, that I could harvest some and not care if they have only a fraction of their original capacity remaining, then if I'm ambitious, just throw a USB charge/BMS circuit in with it. It all seems like a lot of work for what as stated above, only costs about $4 on Aliexpress since I do have ample LSD, AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries.
This mod was intended for infrequent, occasional use of the tester and a safe long-term storage without the need to pull out the batteries or worry about self-dicharge. Carbon zinc batteries are not necessarily "low quality." They are preferred for low power equipment. For higher Amps you'd need alkaline. Some major brands (Maxell, Panasonic) keep manufacturing carbon zinc as well as alkaline batteries. In my experience, carbon zinc batteries don't leak as often and as badly as alkaline if forgotten and left for a longer time in remotes, etc. Rechargeable NiMH or lithium usually don't leak at all, when compared to alkaline. In this case, AAA NiMH rechargeables would work but they cost extra and self-discharge over time if you forget to keep recharging.
@@tektech1065 Nope, carbon zinc are low quality. They are cheaper to make and have less capacity, are only included for those two reasons. No "good" equipment includes carbon zinc instead of alkaline or rechargeables but if rechargeables then generally integrate a charging circuit. There is no harm posed by storing this with NiMH batteries which are so rare to leak that it is extremely uncommon from major brand cells. However I do recognize the problem with a device that has parasitic draw when it shouldn't in the most off state the user can set without removing the batteries. It is senseless that they would design it like that, merely to avoid a 2nd switch to latch on the power when the trigger or another button was pressed.
Apples and oranges.
Nice idea, but why not to change the mains switch into a switch with integrated control LED? I used one from Marquardt, fits perfectly without drilling and you can always go back to factory defaults when needed.
Good idea! The little LED lamp is what I already had on my work bench. If I had a nice and bright lighted switch, that would be my first choice.
We purchased 4 and NONE of them worked with the on/off switch. The constant "on" setting works on the top three outlets. But the two switched outlets on bottom do not work. And it is the same on ALL FOUR units that we purchased. VERY disappointing!!
For the two outlets on the bottom to work you have to plug in and turn ON something (a lamp etc.) into the CONTROL outlet. Try that. The appliance you plug into the CONTROL outlet (top right) has to be 10 Watts or greater. If it's too small it will not turn ON the two bottom outlets.
Perfect fit got my unit back up and running! Thanks
I got a CA FS-7000 just now. I just want to ask, is it normal for it to smell like a hair dryer? The speakers also make a weird squealing noise, and I can hear the same sound through the line headphone out.
Power transformers in vintage equipment sometimes emit odd smells. I think it comes from baked enamel in production of the transformer. Usually, if there's no excessive heat or smoke, it's nothing to worry about. Squealing could come from dried out electrolytic capacitor somewhere on the boards. You could narrow it down by testing it with radio, CD, and Aux. If the squeal never stops, then look around the output amp. That's all I can suggest.
My pullley has no screw holes, only 3 slots. plus I dont have a garge door arm like that, this pulley bolt has set me back an entire day, so far.
Different makes and models of cars have different pulley construction. This one was 2002 Camry V6.
thanks for posting m8 i am still waiting for the last parts hope it works. glad I replaced the fans as well one of them was running very slow when I bench-tested it
This is great! Do you know if there is a built-in amp for the phonograph? I have a moving magnet phonograph, and I would rather not add a pre-amp for it. Thanks.
Yes, this model TX-8011 has PHONO inputs and a grounding screw.
hi again m8 i got all the bits but slipped after finishing and dropped the board and damaged a chip on the back the label 7115 do you know what part this is? on top of the chip is says 1bt its pins are labelled c b e . thanks again for the help
7115 is NPN transistor BC846BW. Digikey part 1727-4848-2-ND. Good luck!
The schematic for the power amp is hard to find on the internet. And the good links often disappear. I found it in music-electronics-forum and 16145-need-yamaha-stagepas-300-schematic/page2 If you google that, you should be able to get the PDF circuit. Good luck!
@@tektech1065 thank-you you are an absolute legend cheers
Hey man, I have almost the same receiver but it's AVR 130. It's got the same problem which is no display but even when the led turns blue it's giving no display. I tried measuring the transformer and it gives 3.6ohms. I tried looking at other areas too like the linear regulator on the front panel, I can't tell the markings on it because it's too small and quite faded but when I measured the supposedly in and out pin it gives 3V on each. Which I think is weird because why does it even need a linear regulator if it's gonna give the same volts anyway. And not far from that there is a diode that doesn't give any forward voltage and beeps when in reverse, tried swapping that out but still the receiver gives no display. Any tips you can give? I'm in a dead end right now and don't know where to look anymore.
3.6 Ohms means good transformer. Get Service Manual for AVR130 (just google it. It's free to download), then you will be able to get the schematic and trace the correct Voltages. Also look up UA-cam for AVR130 (or similar) repairs and you might be lucky to find the exact fix you need. Good luck!
Brilliant - Going to try this on a slightly higher torque bolt......
hi there i have the same problem and the same burnt resistor can you list where you got the spare parts also where can you get the whole board the only one I can find is 218 pounds plus shipping which is really more than the unit is worth cheers and thanks for the vid
The two MOSFETs and the 0.056 Ohm SMD resistor seem to be common failure in these amps. It could be the two little fans to blame for overheating, when they age and start to slow down. I ordered new fans and will be replacing them You should be able to get the parts from Digikey UK or from ebay, but Digikey is the reputable source. The original STP14NF12FP MOSFETs are now obsolete, so I used the new substitute suggested by DigiKey that works perfect: STF20NF20 - DigiKey part nr. 497-5811-5-ND Resistor 0.056 Ohm 1W part nr. 311-0.056TCT-ND If you also want new fans, these are: DigiKey part nr. 259-MF50101V3-1000U-A99-ND and DigiKey part nr. 259-1796-ND Desoldering the old parts can be a challenge if you don't have a good solder pump. I damaged one thru-hole and had to make a wire bridge. I left the bad resistor in place and piggy-backed the new one on top of the old. My repair of the fried module went v. well. I will post a new video of it in the next few days.
@@tektech1065 wonderful thank-you m8 have ordered the bits (with a couple of spares ) and will give it a go thanks again for posting the video might get a few more of these back working.
So you would say that this isn't a good one to have?
These work excellent when new. Great deal if you can find one for 2 dollars or less.
Thank you it save take off the front door to the house! 😅
You are Genius, I was looking for simple tool to make but this is out of this world, Thanks :-)
I have the same machine. Still works fine. Should the motor and gear shaft be oiled? Thank you
I don't think they need to be oiled or greased. I've seen one (a different brand) with the kneading paddle bearing seized that required re-greasing with h. temp. grease. But, in my personal opinion, if it works - don't fix it.
I have checked at least 20 videos trying to figure out how to remove my Maytag oven door. You nailed it!
That's also my experience. I posted this after not being able to find any info :D
6:22 it sounds a lot like a seiko
Glad I found this. Rescued one from the recycling center. Going to do it as a project with my grandson. O rings are so useful. Fixed many a CD and tape doors with them. BTW, when you remove the back, make sure the connectors for speakers and antenna are in the closed position. If they are open the tabs catch on the case.
how to bypass the relay to keep all outlets in on?
The easy way: just bridge (solder) the two output contacts of the relay. The downside is that the circuit is still going to consume (waste) about 3 Watts of power whenever the strip is plugged in. A better way is to gut out the "advanced" part and solder wire bridges across the outlets. But this is something to do for an electrician in order to avoid any risks of fire or electric shock. Any electrician would know what to do and how to do it. Good luck!
Thank you so much this is the exact information I was searching for 🙏
could you show me how to select the bake options, mine on basic i scroll up and down does not change selection,
I would look up the manual. If you paste in google "black decker b1600 bread maker manual" it will be the top result. Good luck!
So how can i get it work normally?
For power sensing use (as intended and designed by the manufacturer) you have to use a simple appliance (heater etc.) plugged in the control outlet. Best way is to test its work with different appliances. But, if you want to use it as a regular 7-outlet strip, you have to open it up and bypass (solder a wire bridge) the switching circuitry. For safety reasons: that would be something to do for an electrician.
For beginners like me, please provide the link for the product that you used.
Links added. You can also see my earlier reply to Kwmck01, 1 month ago. Good luck!
Would it be possible to wire in a LED that would illuminate when the tip heater is powered?
Great idea! That would be really useful but LED's would melt with high temp. near the tip. So, maybe two or three white LED's around the handle? If someone makes it first commercially, I think the idea is likely to spread like wildfire.
@@tektech1065 I was thinking more along the lines of an LED just like you installed, but instead wired to the heater output inside the station. I think having the LED's on the iron would be a distraction from the work...
Great idea! Thanks!!
All you have to do is put your breaker bar on the bolt against the control arm and bump the starter
I've done it too. But some people, myself included, may prefer the more "all under control" solution. And the tool allows to torque the bolt back to factory specs, if someone wants that.
Thank you. It works!
I have the same issue. Very well explained in the simplest manner. Thank you very much for helping with the fix.