Відео

Amazing job! ua-cam.com/video/Zi1KoiY7cv8/v-deo.html I will need to sit down and finish the planned retrofit of my broken Hakko 808. The quality of your video is so impressive! And you included every important detail of the replacement procedure. I will post your link wherever I see someone reporting broken heater in Hakko 808. Thanks, bro! And congratulations on the successful repair!

@@tektech1065 I posted the directions on how to calibrate the heater in my video, If you have one of those soldering iron tip thermometers, you can use that to calibrate the iron and not worry about the thermocoupler. The complete S-993A was only $100 USD, and it includes a nice stand, honestly, its not that bad. I really didnt want to destroy the Hakko in case an orig heating element pops up somewhere. I forgot to mention in my video, I used a Q-tip swab and put some Armorall on the two rubber diaphragms. Mine are 25 years old, if those were to break, I definitely will retire it.

Sure! Both amp modules are identical (and swappable). Can you see any markings, number etc., on the board? Could you compare the two modules and identify the corresponding markings on the other one?

Congratulations on your degree! Playing with the basic stuff I keep admiring the ingenuity of early electrical and electronics inventors. Anyos Jedlik is among the greatest with his original invention of an electric motor and then a dynamo.

Interesting! I don't see the code EAA at all on this particular controller's display. Let me ask: 1. Is your controller XY-WT04 or a different model? 2. Are you able to enter the settings function at all? 3. Does the beeping continue when the thermocouple is disconnected? 4. Could you short the thermocouple terminals with a piece of wire and see if the beeping continues on? In my controller the alarm can go on only in two situations: under temp. and over temp. But only when I set the alarm to go on, like at 3:22

Thank you! Would you perhaps post a video (even a short one) if it works for you? The Japanese pump in 808 is of top quality but the idea of having heater without a thermocouple to limit the temp. was a disaster. I will soon post a new video where I will retrofit my broken 808 with this Chinese heater and new tips from the S-993A and an actual proper temp. controller, the same as here: ua-cam.com/video/Y8-SJ20jm8Y/v-deo.html

@@tektech1065 Thanks for the reply. Let me begin with a short synopsis... (not sure what happened but I replied earlier but it never posted) After noticing it wasnt heating up, I checked the element... no continuity, then plugged it in to check voltage to the heater w meter, none. I was assuming it was the rectifier/thyristor, AC03D or bad component on circuit board. At that point, I was contemplating the Hakko's last rites. Did a little more research on youtube and found this video first by KB1UIF which describes the circuit (I sold my scope a few years ago): ua-cam.com/video/eniR4AkUo_c/v-deo.htmlsi=0PSvSLjVWcmeR3L1 Then I saw your video which confirmed the 993 element was a close fit (and omit the other 2 wires) and ordered the element and tips from Aliexpress. You mentioned about the temp runout sans thermocoupler... In the Hakko manual, it describes how to calibrate the iron with the two potentiometers. KB1UIF confirms the circuitry pulses the current to the element to control temps. When I receive the element, I'm going to try it out to see if it works. I will definitely be making a youtube video on this endeavor, and will give credit to both you and KB1UIF. If you can retrofit the thermocoupler into the Hakko, I will most likely do the same if this doesn't work and just keep it on the bench. Delivery of the element is going to be in a week or so. I will definitely keep you updated. Thanks once again. *** Forgot to also mention*** Was trying to figure out which connectors they used on the element so I didnt have to cut the orig off... I have a JST SM 2.54 female crimp that will accept the short male round pin (which I thought was molex but not).

O-rings are easier to get than specific rubber belts 👍

This fix should double its mileage 👍

All you can do is check it out. Good luck!

The battery connects to the printed circuit board via two steel springs which press against the board. You may try to take it apart again and clean the two contact pads on the board with Q-tip and Deoxit or rubbing alcohol. Look for signs of oxidation on the surface of the contact points - it's a common thing in quartz clocks. A more permanent fix would be an advanced "brain surgery" on the clock: tightly wind a piece of thin magnet wire around each spring and solder its end to the board. I showed it briefly in this video: ua-cam.com/video/VGN-xoHSqTA/v-deo.html You could also just replace the mechanism but then the original hands may or may not fit. Good luck!

I don't know what exact size plug that was, just as long as it fits snugly on the pins of the LED. You can also just solder the wires to the LED. The current limiting 160 Ohm resistor in series can be connected to either one of the two wires. I found that the 5V regulator was the easiest component to tap power for the LED. And, of course, I needed another soldering iron to make those solder connections directly to the pins of that regulator.

Weller should know better

do you know at least what guage the wire was I think they are 2.54 jst plugs im trying to buy them on amazon im just going to wire strip the red positive twist on the resistor to that wire then solder the resistor after and use heat shrink is it 22 awg guage? I dont want to mess up the pcb

@@nikobobich9726 22 AWG is pretty thick, but it will work. I would use something extra small since the current is 20 mA or less.

Good question about the 0.5, or 1/2 Hz. The coil of the Lavet motor gets square wave AC like this: ⎍⎍⎍⎍. Every rise is one step of the motor equal to 1 second, and every fall is the next 1 second step. Therefore one full square wave cycle lasts 2 seconds = 0.5 Hz. That's the nature of the Lavet stepping motor - simple and genius. If the clock had a digital display HH:MM:SS then 1 Hz would be perfect to drive it.

This mod was intended for infrequent, occasional use of the tester and a safe long-term storage without the need to pull out the batteries or worry about self-dicharge. Carbon zinc batteries are not necessarily "low quality." They are preferred for low power equipment. For higher Amps you'd need alkaline. Some major brands (Maxell, Panasonic) keep manufacturing carbon zinc as well as alkaline batteries. In my experience, carbon zinc batteries don't leak as often and as badly as alkaline if forgotten and left for a longer time in remotes, etc. Rechargeable NiMH or lithium usually don't leak at all, when compared to alkaline. In this case, AAA NiMH rechargeables would work but they cost extra and self-discharge over time if you forget to keep recharging.

@@tektech1065 Nope, carbon zinc are low quality. They are cheaper to make and have less capacity, are only included for those two reasons. No "good" equipment includes carbon zinc instead of alkaline or rechargeables but if rechargeables then generally integrate a charging circuit. There is no harm posed by storing this with NiMH batteries which are so rare to leak that it is extremely uncommon from major brand cells. However I do recognize the problem with a device that has parasitic draw when it shouldn't in the most off state the user can set without removing the batteries. It is senseless that they would design it like that, merely to avoid a 2nd switch to latch on the power when the trigger or another button was pressed.

Apples and oranges.

Good idea! The little LED lamp is what I already had on my work bench. If I had a nice and bright lighted switch, that would be my first choice.

For the two outlets on the bottom to work you have to plug in and turn ON something (a lamp etc.) into the CONTROL outlet. Try that. The appliance you plug into the CONTROL outlet (top right) has to be 10 Watts or greater. If it's too small it will not turn ON the two bottom outlets.

Power transformers in vintage equipment sometimes emit odd smells. I think it comes from baked enamel in production of the transformer. Usually, if there's no excessive heat or smoke, it's nothing to worry about. Squealing could come from dried out electrolytic capacitor somewhere on the boards. You could narrow it down by testing it with radio, CD, and Aux. If the squeal never stops, then look around the output amp. That's all I can suggest.

Different makes and models of cars have different pulley construction. This one was 2002 Camry V6.

Yes, this model TX-8011 has PHONO inputs and a grounding screw.

7115 is NPN transistor BC846BW. Digikey part 1727-4848-2-ND. Good luck!

The schematic for the power amp is hard to find on the internet. And the good links often disappear. I found it in music-electronics-forum and 16145-need-yamaha-stagepas-300-schematic/page2 If you google that, you should be able to get the PDF circuit. Good luck!

@@tektech1065 thank-you you are an absolute legend cheers

3.6 Ohms means good transformer. Get Service Manual for AVR130 (just google it. It's free to download), then you will be able to get the schematic and trace the correct Voltages. Also look up UA-cam for AVR130 (or similar) repairs and you might be lucky to find the exact fix you need. Good luck!

The two MOSFETs and the 0.056 Ohm SMD resistor seem to be common failure in these amps. It could be the two little fans to blame for overheating, when they age and start to slow down. I ordered new fans and will be replacing them You should be able to get the parts from Digikey UK or from ebay, but Digikey is the reputable source. The original STP14NF12FP MOSFETs are now obsolete, so I used the new substitute suggested by DigiKey that works perfect: STF20NF20 - DigiKey part nr. 497-5811-5-ND Resistor 0.056 Ohm 1W part nr. 311-0.056TCT-ND If you also want new fans, these are: DigiKey part nr. 259-MF50101V3-1000U-A99-ND and DigiKey part nr. 259-1796-ND Desoldering the old parts can be a challenge if you don't have a good solder pump. I damaged one thru-hole and had to make a wire bridge. I left the bad resistor in place and piggy-backed the new one on top of the old. My repair of the fried module went v. well. I will post a new video of it in the next few days.

@@tektech1065 wonderful thank-you m8 have ordered the bits (with a couple of spares ) and will give it a go thanks again for posting the video might get a few more of these back working.

These work excellent when new. Great deal if you can find one for 2 dollars or less.

I don't think they need to be oiled or greased. I've seen one (a different brand) with the kneading paddle bearing seized that required re-greasing with h. temp. grease. But, in my personal opinion, if it works - don't fix it.

That's also my experience. I posted this after not being able to find any info :D

The easy way: just bridge (solder) the two output contacts of the relay. The downside is that the circuit is still going to consume (waste) about 3 Watts of power whenever the strip is plugged in. A better way is to gut out the "advanced" part and solder wire bridges across the outlets. But this is something to do for an electrician in order to avoid any risks of fire or electric shock. Any electrician would know what to do and how to do it. Good luck!

I would look up the manual. If you paste in google "black decker b1600 bread maker manual" it will be the top result. Good luck!

For power sensing use (as intended and designed by the manufacturer) you have to use a simple appliance (heater etc.) plugged in the control outlet. Best way is to test its work with different appliances. But, if you want to use it as a regular 7-outlet strip, you have to open it up and bypass (solder a wire bridge) the switching circuitry. For safety reasons: that would be something to do for an electrician.

Links added. You can also see my earlier reply to Kwmck01, 1 month ago. Good luck!

Great idea! That would be really useful but LED's would melt with high temp. near the tip. So, maybe two or three white LED's around the handle? If someone makes it first commercially, I think the idea is likely to spread like wildfire.

@@tektech1065 I was thinking more along the lines of an LED just like you installed, but instead wired to the heater output inside the station. I think having the LED's on the iron would be a distraction from the work...

I've done it too. But some people, myself included, may prefer the more "all under control" solution. And the tool allows to torque the bolt back to factory specs, if someone wants that.