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@@1977BangBang yeah absolutely. This is an off road vehicle by design and is used as such. Factory coatings held up dramatically better than the KBS did. No coating will last forever but I expected better from KBS.

I might try that since I have one handy

Yeah a bit of travelling on gravel roads. My disappointment was due to the fact that cheap acrylic paint held up better on the gravel than the expensive KBS stuff. I expected more from the premium product.

@@hayden6930 I appreciate your quick reply. KBS has a red that I like better than the POR-15 red. I have a 1957 Chevy truck with a great patina. I want to coat the chassis with this or something similar. The truck will be street driven.

@@myoneblackfriend3151 of its being street driven I can't see it being an issue at all, I understand the KBS paint product is very similar to POR15 so I would expect similar results. The big advantage of this stuff is how nicely it usually goes on with just a brush, it's very high solids paint so gets you nice coverage. I have found some variability with it though, I got a batch recently that wouldn't flow at all which was disappointing. I reckon there's a bit of a quality control issue with KBS.

There's a number of ways to remove broken studs, if you take the axle out first it may give you some access to the broken stud to simply screw them out with a pair of pliers. Realistically if its any harder than that then you're better off buying a new hub from Terrain Tamer and putting new studs in it.

There are left handed drill bits and easyouts, it's a process, but you'll get there

Beautiful cars👌

On the roads and highways its probably perfect, my landcruiser spent most of its 40,000km on dirt/gravel roads. I think that would make a pretty significant difference.

Hi mate, yes the main highways around Australia are largely sealed, however most of the sights and attractions are located in national parks that require extensive gravel driving in remote areas, I guess I assumed my audience would make the link between vehicle type and off road travel. The axle was subjected to lots of gravel. I had many other parts painted with cheaper acrylic paint which survived better. The purpose of my trip wasn't to prove the worth of KBS paint so my method want as scientific as it could've been, I'm familiar with the water test, although I didn't use it prior to painting this part. The KBS paint comes with a cleaning product which is meant to etch the metal, I also used blasting to heavily etch the surface. Between them the metal was as well prepared for good adhesion as it could be. You can keep your dollar, I won't be doing another test for the sake of science haha I guess the purpose of the paint isn't only good adhesion but resistance to wear and tear and other environmental factors, and with those in consideration in this case the performance of the KBS paint didn't warrant it's cost over cheaper paints.

@@hayden6930 Ah, yes, it's hard to tell what is happening; you described chipping and flaking. That section of the axle where the bare metal is showing: either the Rust Seal coating has been physically blasted by sand & gravel, or the coating hasn't bonded to the metal. I can't see acyrilic paint holding up to impact and abrasion better than the Rust Seal. So if the coating hasn't bonded to the steel, and the steel really was 100% "chemically clean", then I was thinking that there may have been some Rust Blast residue on the steel. Particularly if the Rust Blast dried out on an area, then there is going to be a crust of the zinc phosphate, which would stop the Rust Seal from bonding properly to the steel. Presumably you put on the recommended two coats? I would suggest preparing two identical "coupons" of steel, and then do the 3-step KBS thing on one, and the acrylic lacquer on the other coupon, then test them equally for resistance to abrasion/impacts, as well as trying to remove the coatings with a sharp chisel. That's the only way to compare the two coatings..... anything else is anecdotal evidence. I've found Rust Seal to adhere to steel like epoxy, whereas I can easily scrape acrylic lacquer from steel with a sharp edge. I'm wondering if you had contacted KBS for their response?

@@Boswell341 I am not an investigative journalist or scientist, I'm not here to provide peer reviewed scientific evidence that one paint is better than another, I am simply presenting my experience with the product. I can assure you that the instructions that came with the KBS coating were followed exactly. Everything was washed and rinsed exactly as was recommended. The reason I published this video is because I often see KBS recommended for the undercarriage of 4x4 vehicles, I'm offering a perspective of someone who did use it, then used the vehicle as it was intended. The results are not spectacular, and I have had objectively better results with drastically cheaper paint.

@@hayden6930Hello Hayden, I understand and appreciate your report of the KBS Chassis Coating, based on your personal experience with applying the product and reviewing how it held up after 40,000Km of use on & off road. I'm not criticising you in any way, I'm just trying to understand why some reviewers will report positive experiences, and some will report negative experiences from the use of the KBS Rust Seal product (or any similar product). The simple explanation must be that KBS has very poor quality control in the manufacturing of their product, so that some cans will have "good" product in them, and some cans will have "bad" product in them. That scenario is of course possible, but otherwise, if the product is identical in all cans, then the reports of "good" and "bad" results of use must come down to factors such as the condition of the base metal, ambient environment and application procedures/techniques. In your case, something has caused the KBS stuff to flake off; it may have been a bad batch to start with, or it degraded in the can, because it has not performed as it was designed to do, nor has it performed as the many positive reviews testify. I have read some reviews that complain that Rust Seal is rubbish because the viscosity is too thin! Again, that could come down to quality control in the manufacturing, or it could simply be the the users did not take sufficient time to stir the product to get all the solids at the bottom of the can up into suspension, which takes at least a minute or two of slow stirring (so as not to introduce air/humidity). Anyway, I've had good results with spray cans of VHT epoxy chassis paint, and it is a damn sight easier to apply than the moisture-cure urethanes like KBS/Por-15 etc, LOL, etc.....

@@Boswell341 I put my experience down to the particularly aggressive environment that it was required to survive, no paint will survive that kind of use unscathed. The two main differences in results between KBS and cheap acrylic is that KBS fails very quickly on contact with brake fluid, acrylic will fail but takes longer allowing you to clean up the mess before the paint is damaged, and acrylic paint doesn't chip off in such large chips as KBS. any stone strike is going to take paint with it, it's just that the KBS comes off in bigger flakes making the damage more obvious. Other areas of the car painted in KBS that were not subjected to such harsh conditions survived perfectly well. The variation in reviews is almost certainly a result of the varying degrees of abuse that the paint is subject to in my opinion. There's no shortage of people who restore 4x4s then rarely take them off road! My angle is that if you plan to use your 4x4 as a 4x4 then KBS probably isn't the best choice for the undercarriage. Something cheap and replaceable would be a better choice. If you drive around on the streets then it's a perfectly good choice. Although I still probably wouldn't bother as it didn't really offer anything that much cheaper paint can't do for the undercarriage anyway.

No I didn't change anything, there's no simple fix and my locker works fine anyway, so it didn't seem worth risking an experimental fix that wasn't really all that necessary.

You're right, but you'd expect more expensive paint to hold up better than $10 rattle cans from the auto store. That was the disapointing aspect I think.

Off road and in the highway, general use 4x4 vehicle.

Not quite true, it says (quoted from website) "FOR BEST END RESULTS, apply RustSeal to clean dry bare metals with good porous surface profiles such as tightly rusted, sandblasted, or other abraded surfaces to which RustSeal can "bite" into." My axles were blasted in parts and abraded with coarse sandpaper discs in other parts.

@@hayden6930 just looking at it you can tell is is improper preparation.

@@philfredericks5198 lol ok, what would you do different?

@@hayden6930 Gotta be honest... You have me pretty worried. I bought quite a bit of KBS stuff... I guess I'm still going to use it... I'm using the same system, plus the blacktop. I was also going to use some new products they have coming out (not on the website yet) and do the entire body of my truck as well. And use KBS Maxx for base and clear. I'm probably gonna go for it anyway... But if I don't get the results that were sold to me there's gonna be one hell of a nasty review about it. I'm spending a ton of money and even more importantly putting a ton of time into doing this.

@@ChristianNeff it's going to depend heavily on what you are using the car for. Mine was torture tested on a trip around Australia really, most people don't use their cars like that. Around town it'll be perfectly fine. I'm not sure I'd use KBS on the exterior of a car, the automotive 2 pack systems I've used are pretty good for that, and given my results in general with KBS I wouldn't trust it on the exterior of the bodywork. I don't believe it does anything better than 2K except that it's easier to apply in small areas due to not needing to mix paints and clean up spray equipment. Those benefits are reduced on jobs where large areas are being covered, because it's no harder to mix large batches than it is small batches, and it's way quicker to spray than to brush large areas. Either way, good luck!

I did a 40,000km trip around Australia.

Re-reading my response after another comment, I should have been clearer, the trip included a lot of off road travel! I keep assuming that an around Australia is considered synonymous with off roading for everyone else but I guess it's not always haha.

Nah I've long since parted that vehicle out, I wouldn't be worried about a street car, it was the rocks/gravel and occasional brake fluid that really killed it on mine. Keep the brake fluid off yours and it'll be perfect.

@@hayden6930 OK great, I got that impression. Looks like your 4wd went to hell and back in those 40,000km where my street car will be babied everywhere, barely drive in the rain and might hit 40,000km in 10 years 😁 Cheers for the response mate.

I wouldn't say mine was abused by any means, just used as a 4x4, hence the disappointment in the paint longevity. You won't have a drama I don't think though.

@@hayden6930 yep understand mate thanks.

@@Doublemoontoon how did it come up im about to do my flor pans and underside of my 31 wagon in this or resene amourcote

Hey mate, I've had good luck with just cheap branded (motospray etc) acrylic chassis black. To be honest I haven't kept track of how each brand of acrylic performs, I just chuck on whatever I've got and it's always been decent.

Much the same process, different timing mark. I think the H is set at 18 degrees BTDC due to the inefficient precombustion system they use as an indirect injection engine.

Rust seal. The black top worked ok on the ute tray but when it did start rusting it went quick. I'd use it again though I think.

@@hayden6930 maybe both together? sand the rust seal back a little before the black top

@@eljimberinoq5518 that's what I did for the tray, but not the chassis. To be honest I've been really happy with really cheap acrylic chassis paint so I wouldn't spend the money on two layers of KBS for another chassis I don't think.

I followed the KBS instruction exactly. That includes removing old paint with a range of abrasives, a chlorine based wash, a metal etch and paint.

@@hayden6930 You should of used kbs 3 step system. Mines been on for awhile

@@brandonlewis5045 that's the system I used, 1 - KBS Kleen (chlorine wash), 2 - KBS Rust Blast (metal etch/rust treatment), 3 - KBS Rust seal - paint.

@@hayden6930 ok got you, you going to repaint it with kbs?

@@hayden6930 i painted mine with brush and oversoaked it with kbs kleen and metal prep

I followed the KBS paint system which includes an etch treatment prior to the Rust Seal paint going on.

@@hayden6930 Yes, Rust Blast etches the metal.

I consider it confirmed, I didn't do any further investigation but if the seal is running off its journal then it's going to leak.

In this case the studs were not going to be reused. Brass drifts are great for bearings and bushes, these studs are less critical, and relatively soft anyway. I find very little difference in damage using a brass drift for applications such as this over using steel.

I've got no way of measuring the accuracy of this method really, I'm relying on the accuracy of the markings on the front pulley for the angle reading and waiting for a visual on the fuel flow. It's a bit hard to put an actual number on the accuracy when you're relying entirely on the factory markings for accuracy, but I'd guess you can get it within a degree or so.

Not sure mate, I'm thinking an industrial epoxy of some type. Although I've had pretty good results with just cheap acrylic chassis black.

I’ve had excellent results with “steel it”

Hehe sneaky sneaky.

Some very minor wiring, just gotta wire up your vacuum shutoff valve. It just needs power when the key is in the run position.

I'd say it was due to steering hard right and a touch of throttle on big tyres with a fair amount of traction. It was heavily loaded and the engine was capable of slipping a 750nm clutch with ease so chances are the CV had just had enough. There are lockers fitted but they weren't engaged. Cheers 👍

@@hayden6930 hey nice video and roadside repair. Do you have any more video on what you've done to the 12ht or is it stock standard?

@@leighpember7630 this cruiser actually had an Isuzu 4BD1T in it. I do have a bit more video on the 12HT build, I've just not had time to edit it. I'll get around to it one of these days. I'm not very good at editing so it takes me a long time!

Could be also that the CV was just a cheapo, you can get Cozza CV's for next to nothing BUT you get what you pay for. OEM Toyota's are around $600/ea, but I have heard that Chromo are alright (although you may need to import them from the US).

This always happens with our utes underground because of the small spaces we're constantly turning full lock