Відео

The dog knows.

Block the turbo with a rag and it will shut off

Always have a piece of wood

Plug the exhaust!!!!!

I purchased a 2011 impala 3.5 with 88k miles on an online auction... Drove it 40 miles and now having issues with what i believe to be the camshaft, or camshaft bearings... This video has been amazing to come across. This is the first time ever getting this deep into an engine. Wish me luck, gents.

music is problematic. cant hear half of what he says

Not smart enough to block the turbo and cut the airflow off

a physical shutoff valve for the fuel system is easy to install.. and prevents that.. no fuel, no runaway. Ignition on, solenoid opens. key off.. no open solenoid.. and no fuel.

Diesel runaways are so random

Why does this happen? Can someone tell me

Even the dog knew what to do 😂

There’s an access panel under passenger seat behind driver you shouldn’t have to drop the gas tank for this!

I notice a HUGE difference in price between the Amazon part, and the O'Reilly part, that you showed in the video. Of course i would much rather save $300 , do you think there is a difference in quality? The savings means nothing if you get stuck on the side of the road.

Why would anyone want an Impala from that era? Aside from not being a desirable vehicle, ours used excessive amounts of oil since new and the transmission will cost you $5000. When it blows (which is highly likely)

Slow it down

The engine don't runaway the mechanics do

You should have slowed down instead of going somfast

Don't worry about the music 🎵 it was okays, First time viewers, just set it much lower so we can hear what your saying please, to anyone reading my comment, I advise turning on Captions for this vid to see what he is saying during the music parts of the vid, ty

Əladu

wat was the problem?

if this video didn’t have the music, it would be exactly what i’m lookin for

Nice shop!

My Silverado makes this noise too and won’t engage 4x4. What was the actual problem with yours? Please let me know I’ve been looking for the issue for a while now. Still drives but no 4wd and always growling like that

How do you even know when it's your transfer case and put my gear in car and get my truck my Denali and gear and it does nothing but when I put it back in part it goes and grinds out like the transmissions grinding so I know it's not the trends how do you know if it's a transfer case

Can you just turn the car off?

never did say how many miles was on it ut knowing a 3.5 probley 300k lol

Is that pump worth it? Surely it’s not only 32 dollars when I’m seeing pumps for 200-500 32 seems awfully low

Great video bro. Im thibk about tackling the job myself, got a bad transmission, but also got oul keaking and some other stuff, so i wanna take out everything and service the transmissions and address the leaking fluids, clean up the engine bay then out everything back. How long did it take you from start to finish to take the engine out?

Even the dog ran 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Hello..may I have the part number for that fuel pump with a strainer..I see its $33.00?

Great video. Very easy to follow. Thank you! Leaving out the o ring is exactly something I would do! Oh that sucked but at least you got it going in the end.

why did they not block the intake bruh

That dog caused it

It has 3 plug in but my truck has 6 where does all plug bc I’m my 2 nd te afar is the right one but has only 3 plug in

great video, perfect guide and a must watch for any impala owner

My friend just had the fuel tank replaced on her 2009 Rav 4 because it had a big dent in it. She figured while having the work done she might as well replace the fuel pump too. Now the vehicle starts really slow. She called the garage and they said it’s probably the check valve in the cheap fuel pump(she didn’t opt for the cheapest one….). So I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas about how one might replace just the check valve, although really I’m wondering if the garage messed something up.

Have impala 2007 oil leak where is it coming from about a foot back from the radiator help oil pan ,head gasket

Along with it the dog ran away

Which year was this ? USA or canada version ? Thanks

I've got everything disconnected except the 2 bolts on the exhaust. Where are you running that extension at 25:55? That part is challenging to get from the top. So did you hit both from the bottom? Thnx btw this video helped a bunch. Engine overheated and seized but luckily I was able to spin the crank enough to get all 3 of those bolts connecting to the torque converter. Plus, good luck to everyone getting the ac unbolted and that bracket to the left of the crank and the bolt on the bell housing that you need extensions for. lol

Full clip that actually shows the best stuff is always preferred. Started out cool...

I've look everywhere for this answer and can't find it. Can a LZE and LZ4 engine be used interchangeably? I have the LZE engine but found a close by LZ4 engine for cheap.

Great video. Three things. First, the inner plastic cylinder that houses the fuel pump is the main filter (in its sides like an oil filter) which is usually what needs replacing ($19 on ebay). A dirty one might decrease lifespan of the electrical pump. Second, disconnecting the fuel line ("top and bottom blue tabs" at 1:30) on the front of the tank started leaking for almost 5 minutes and was about 2 cup fulls. Luckily I had the oil pan nearby. I could not squeeze those tabs with my fingers to get that connector off, so I duct-taped ball bearings to each end of a small channel lock for the ball bearings to squeeze the buttons inward. I don't see how people get those off with their fingers (there's another one under the hood close to the firewall hiding behind wiring that I've seen people squeeze with fingers...you need skinny and strong fingers to get in the square holes). This was actually the hardest part of the job. Third, there are two options to empty the tank. The easiest is to run it 15 miles after the light comes on. This should not run out (20 miles might, 10 miles is safer if you don't have a gas can in the car) and leaves about 1/2 gallon in the tank which doesn't spill out of the refill hole when you disconnect it. I tried disconnecting it right before the light came on and fuel started coming out. Dropping the tank a bit haphazardly didn't leak any of the remaining fuel. Just be careful not to let it tip down on side with the refill hole. The other option to empty the tank on these models (at least on my 2008 & 2010 RAV4s), is to apply power to the pump and tap the fuel line at the "blue tab" connector mentioned above or under the hood (not easy, you need to have a fuel pressure gauge connector on hand and experience tapping it) to pump the gas into a can via tygon tubing. To power the pump, you can connect 12V+ from the battery to "IA8" on the "instrument panel junction box" by driver's left knee. If your RAV4 differs or if you touch that un-fused 12V to the wrong spot you could burn out your $1,000 ECU or a relay. You could alternatively short IA8 to IB11 with the key in "start" position (not ignition) to be a little safer but I found a long wire from the battery easier & safer because I have only 1 wire poking around in the ECU panel. IB11 and IA8 are the two sides of the relay "out" switch, not the relay "in" that powers the switch. IA8 goes directly to +side of the fuel pump. IB11 comes from EFI or "ignition" wiring that is 12V when the key is in "start" position. The relay closes when you go to "ignition" for IB11's 12V to power IA8, so a short (a wire) across them just prevents you from having to go to ignition which would make make the starter turn over and over. The relay is turned on (the IA8 & IB11 switch is closed) by power from the ECU across by IE5 and IF4 (I don't know which is ECU voltage and which is ground). I could not find out where the physical relay (C/OPN, not F/PUMP) was located, just these terminals that are connected to it. Do not power the pump after tank is empty because it requires gasoline running thru to cool it off (that might be the purpose of the skinny tubing in this video).

It be nice if the music was off so we can actually hear your instructions man.

the resistant of fuel-pump must be measure,, the new must closer value to the older..

The engine ranaway so did the guys

Good video. What about the fuel filter? Is it along the frame or in the engine bay?

My car makes the same noise what was the problem

You saved my life bro 😅 A 2008 Toyota RAV4 came in on a hook. Turn over no start, it started once. I scan it and it had a P0335 for the cranck sensor, there was a TSB for a updated intake cam gear but we ended selling the whole timing chain kit since we were going to do the updated cam gear. After the job it still didn’t start. I knew everything on my end was good with the timing chain kit. I proceeded with checking the fuel pressure and there was none. I replaced the fuel pump with a OE but they only sell the pump. After the installation of the fuel pump, it still didn’t start. There was still no fuel pressure 🤦🏽‍♂️ I dropped the tank again and checked it but it was late Saturday and call it for the day. I searched many UA-cam videos on Sunday till I came across yours. I realized I didn’t install a new seal on top of the pump just like you did because I didn’t see one. Anyways, Monday morning I was able to see my mistake. THANK YOU bro 😅

Did you put another engine in the impala