Відео

Thank you very much. Much love from the uk 🇬🇧

On the Ohms setting you would move to the number just above the reading you’re expecting, so if testing for 14-15,000 Ohms, move to the 20k Ohms setting.

Just a couple of hours really. Quite a simple process.

Thanks for the info, that makes sense. Not sure what parallel flank bolts look like will have to research that. I could have left them in a solution for a few weeks but the aluminium oxide still needed dealing with, and a quick clean anyway.

@@memybikeni9931 parallel flank just a fancy way of saying normal straight flank. I think evaporust will take the aluminium oxide off too. It’s really good stuff. Black treacle diluted with water works the same way (the chemical process is called chelation). You just empty a small tin of Lyon’s black treacle in into a bucket of water, throw your rusty bits in and leave. Depending on how bad they are, it will take a few weeks to a few months to completely shift the rust. I had a really poor condition VFR1200 Centre stand. It took about six weeks, but it completely cleared all the rust and it came out as bare metal. It only attacks the rust, which makes it far better than using acids which attack the base metal as well.

@@jeremyr62 that’s interesting as white rust and red rust are inherently different, the former being a protective coating of course, but I didn’t know that it reacted to rust treatments in the same way, either way, a quick job to wire them off, but I’ll definitely have to try those tips thanks. I thought the flutes on the bolts were oiling channels actually, was just a guess, as never come across stretch bolts like that.

Yes that works well on bearings, but with a dowel and practically no surface area I doubt it. Never seen it done anyway.

@@memybikeni9931 Never tried it myself, just a thougt

Not sure it matters really, would retain grinding dust for ease of removal, but can’t see any other advantage to it.

That’s a good save 😅

Never tried them but good tip, worth checking out. Thanks.

@@memybikeni9931 no problem

Apologies UA-cam held this comment. That’s a shame, why so strict ?

Appreciated, I think mine is ok, was holding fluid well when I removed the Radiators. List it mate, if it’s good it’ll be worth something.

Thank you for your comment, not sure the translation gave me exactly what you wanted to say but I got the gist of it 👍

Yeah I think you’re right. I’m going to do that, quick job really.

I usually get criticised for talking too much, the music is a new one. It’s Marmite I know. 😂

Brilliant, glad they’re helping. Top Tip, don’t attempt to remove the Selector Drum 😂 thanks so much for watching and commenting. What’s your issue anyway ? Why the strip down ?

@@memybikeni9931 that sounds like good advice! 😂 I'm doing a full restoration so stripped the entire bike. Probably bitten off more than I can chew but I'm having fun, so far (most of the time). Keep those videos coming. They're really helpful and I'm leaning a lot. Cheers

@@matthewarcher6493 that sounds good, these are quite rare now it seems so good to save one and have something a little different to show for it. If you do any videos on it, I’ll be sure to check them out 👍

I could have yes but very reluctant to as the rings for these are very expensive, if I break one, so I can sling it back together, see how it is, and replace the rings later if needed. That’s my thoughts anyway, hoping they will be ok.

Quite a simple list really, get a bespoke manifold, a gravity fed carb, this one came off one of the larger Viragos, it’s an Hitachi carb, but literally any old carb will do. Strip out the throttle cable, shorten and re attach a soldered nipple. The main issue I had was having to reposition the right brake lever, which I remade, as described, but not totally necessary. There really is nothing to it. Personally I would never do it again, air cooled engines need different fuelling, as the rear block gets hotter, it needs to run richer, so twin carbs are fitted for that very reason.

Even Google translate couldn’t figure out what you were trying to say.

Next video, drilled out, and a follow up putting it all back together.

I hope it helped, you’re very welcome 😊

Hope you found it useful, they are quite simple engines.

Hi mate, yes odd issue to resolve. The original bolt was not as long as the hole fortunately, so I replaced with a 100mm (excluding the head) M6 x 1mm pitch, Hex socket, mainly a plan shaft with 20mm of thread, but a completely threaded bolt would be ok. GWR-Fasteners on eBay are the best, even now have a 99.9% approval rating so wouldn’t go anywhere else. These old bikes do succumb to aluminium oxide deterioration quite a bit so no surprised the bolts stripped out. Good luck with the fix, if it doesn’t work, see how much room you have to drill and tap it out to M8, with a shorter bolt.

I know what you mean, nearly every job involves heat and hammers 😂

Yes the wiring loom is horrific isn’t it. I assume a repair that was half done, it’s quite awkward to get to, so I guess that’s why.

Yeah, certainly is. Nice little fix and nothing spent.

They actually drilled out just fine, and the studs left in the yokes also game out quite easily after that with a little heat. Video of that up shortly, just waiting for a replacement ignition barrel. I do have a welder, and frequently weld nuts on to broken fixings etc to assist, works well, but on this occasion the sheered heads were recessed, so it would have been harder, and risk damaging everything. I was trying to save the ignition and repair it but considered it not worth it after inspection.

It doesn't matter which way it goes on. Have you ever seen any evidence that it will come off if fitting one way of the other, aside from what other UA-cam experts say.

Glad it helped, it’s just teasing it in, and maybe use a little lube etc. it’s fiddly, and for some reason they kink, so it’s take ‘em out and try again sometimes. Odd things.

No I’m doing it right. Already tried and failed to punch and drift them out previous video. They’re 40 years old, thread locked in and quite probably aluminium oxide adding to the issue. So your plan whilst one option, didn’t work on this part. But thanks for sharing. I’m quite familiar with all the usual stuck fixing methods. I try them all on a near weekly basis, they never near me, so which ever way works gets used.

@@memybikeni9931 I've done lots. My first were on 23 year old Honda in a junkyard, 20 years ago, with no power tools. Sharpen the punch & use a 5lb shorty sledge. or, and I have used this on stripped engine case screws, since I was afraid of cracking the case... Cut a slot in the bolt head, just big enough to fit whatever flathead bit your impact driver has. A whack er two and it spin right out. Just need to break that rust seal.

@@Iowa599 yeah, this was awkward as the conical head below where it sheers sits in a recess, so no way to get a slit saw in. I drilled into it, to make a flat section to get a good fit with a punch to avoid slippage. Gave it my best, it wouldn’t move. The main issue is over torqued by virtue of it being a sheer bolt, and aluminium oxide and blue thread locker clearly visible. Also, the head sits a little way from where the threads meet so there is also an impact loss over the distance, and not being able to hold the part fully ridged. Very little chance if drifting it out, I’ve done lots of that too quite successfully, but not this time. Drilled out very easily, slipped the block and barrel off the yoke, and the remaining stud then came out of the yoke very easily with a little heat and grips. All ready for re assembly with a new ignition barrel, so good end to the problem. Il refit with hex sockets, no idea why they fit these things, not sure they add value, just a pain to service or repair.

@@memybikeni9931 die grinder. that's why I save my 'worn out' discs, they cut slow, but they cut in tight areas. Even stripped-out flathead JIS, without scratching the case. easier than drilling a hole down the center. check the service manual, it has instructions, and I know they don't tell you to drill it. they might tell you to heat it, assuming the cylinder is to be replaced, because that wipes out the locktite that is probly used.

@@Iowa599 on this occasion I was attempting to repair the wiring so heat initially was out of the question, but once I had it apart to inspect, not going to repair it, so could have used heat and probably saved a bunch of time.

Yes welcome to your tube tutorials.

Who needs screwdrivers. Nah they were too past it to describe by the original fitting, so pointless trying to use JIS, Philips, or whatever, I generally see what fits best, and when nothing does, cut them out. This is 40 years old, it won’t comport to standard. That’s why we use heat, drills, cutters, grinders…

@@memybikeni9931 sounds like you dont know what that jis is and what miracle it does, i did repair mine and its never been repaired and yeah it is 40 years old, culd not have got one single screw out if i didnt just a JIS, always use correct tools :D work smarter not harder mate

@@Karnalzion These screws were not JIS, they were just FUBAR which is a type of fitting that rejects all known screwdrivers but remove them i did. I really couldn’t care less about smarter or harder, I just do what I need to and on this occasion with little effort or a JIS screwdriver in sight. Yes I know what they are, I work on Japanese bikes all the time. I replaced them with new, and the only injuries involved were to the sensitivities to the JIS brigade. everyone knows what a JIS screwdriver is, some of us just choose to play with the tools we have, although I have hundreds of different types of driver so… Nothing hard about removing stuck, rounded fixings. I’m used to it.

@@memybikeni9931 So somone had replaced them at some point then sins you say they were not jis

@@Karnalzion I really don’t know, but they were wrecked before I got to them. I’m doing a video on removing sheer bolts on an ignition barrel on my Fazer, will be hopefully uploaded by the weekend, be interested in you opinion.

Do you mean runout along the shaft ? What is the measurement, have you put a feeler gauge in ?

No neither terminal touched the bench there were isolated.

Oh you’re right yes, my bad, rookie error, but wasn’t the fuse, I tested it in the bike and off the bench so no issue.

Disconnected the fuel pump to prevent the bowls filling.

Yes, there so many ways of skinning the cat as they say

Wouldn’t go as far as “any bolt” and I attempted impact to no avail, they just rounded.

I think flex in the shaft of the bolt will prevent it from moving, impact needs to be right on the work, the head is some distance form the thread due to the bolt length, so not expecting this to work. I’m presently drilling them out, and will probably find corrosion etc, we’ll see, maybe some aluminium and iron oxide, thread locker etc, we’ll see 😊

Thanks mate, I actually thought it was a carb issue to begin with as it does idle poorly, like any carbs needing a clean, I assumed it was just stalling out while on the idle circuit. Then I thought electrical, but by chance I suddenly realised it was doing it on steering, not while moving. It behaved normally on the road but deteriorated very quickly as I moved the handle bars, good job I didn’t get caught out on the road. Shame you don’t see them in Oz, they are great looking bikes.

@memybikeni9931 your bloody lucky it didn't happen on the road. That would have been almighty pain. You see plenty of Yamaha FJ's in Australia but no Fazers. FJ's are even heavy than my VFRs.

@@barrythatcher9349 I guess bigger bikes are more popular, being a large country, the FJ is a little more up to touring the wide open spaces, the Fazer is more entry level. Good commuter bike. I love it, it’s very sporty looking with the comfort of a tourer.

Or check my comment at 3:40 which referenced the hole to tighten it 😂 Youd have to watch previous videos to see what I was ‘harping on about’, the engineering of the bolt made no sense to me, and I’m sure won’t to others. Its location, isolation, and requirement to torque it at head stage to secure the barrel as a one sided fixing made no sense.

Well, a lot of times with these sort of fixings, aluminium oxide is the cause and penetrating fluid is ineffective. The engine case bolt was very much in that camp. The drilling out the manifold the only option too I’m afraid. But the small bolt holding the actuator wasn’t really stuck, it was just leverage that was needed. But all good in the end.

Thank you, I love sharing the work I do and glad people find it helpful, I draw a lot from others too, don’t know what we would do without UA-cam 😊

I don’t have the service limit on end float for the crank, but that seems a bit out of range, I would expect 1/2 that typically, and certainly could contribute to the knocking. clicking can be over stretched cam chain, weak tensioner. You could try shimming the spring inside the mechanism. The fact you have 1/2 tooth out situation backs up the fact the chain is stretched, so new chain and tensioners would assist, but of course there are to of them. New ones are pricey, and no point in getting used as they won’t be any better. The other cause of clicking when warm can be exhaust, so check the header bolts are secure and haven’t worked their way out. With too much end float, this can cause rod and big end damage, so worth keeping in check, and can also be shimmed with the correctly machined parts, but it’s a lot of work.

Ah you’ll be fine mate, it’s a straight forward process. Best of luck.

I am not sure that translated well, what do you mean by tuning a camshaft ?

I’ll be reinstalling them very soon so will upload a video, but it’s reverse of this one really. They are a bit awkward.

I’ll be putting them back soon, so will do a detailed video.

I’m not quite sure what you mean, the straws line up perfectly to the holes in the petcock. They are just not attached like a modern day one. I’m not sure if they have become detached or are meant to be like it. They appear jagged, so I’m assuming broken, which means someone has forced them apart. If they give me any issues, I’ll insert a sleeve with thread locker to re seal the joints. Hoping the O Ring with do the job, we’ll have to see.

I don’t recall, it was off brand, and to be honest I would really only recommend a D.I.D set. This particular chain has already started to show tight spots, so going cheap isn’t the best idea.

Hello mate, this was a couple of hundred quid on eBay, from Australian, but you can get them straight from Ignitech I believe based in the Czech Republic. If you go the the Motofaction website, link in the description this is also a massive source of help.

It’s always worth periodically checking across the battery to see if you have too much woltage being pumped in, or not enough, gives you a heads up on the regulator part at least, very hard to test a regrec, they just go bad, but time kills them. Worth changing if they’re old, even if the bike is working, saves getting caught out.

@@memybikeni9931 Yes that what I've found out that changing the regrec regularly on all VFR's is must even if the mechanic says it's been tested. I've learned even the last VFR 2014 800's & 1200's you need to keep an eye on them. I had a 1993 VFR 750. Battery died on me and need to get a tow truck.

@@barrythatcher9349 well a ‘93 piece of electronic equipment, probably had its day some time ago, I think 10 years is a good time to change it out at most. Although I don’t practice what I preach, I have an ‘01 Fazer 600 and haven’t tested my charging system on it yet. this particular stator is off the VF750F I’m rebuilding, while I’m waiting for parts to rebuild it. I have so much to get on with, it’s never ending 🤦‍♂

@@memybikeni9931I had the 1993 just on 12 years ago but defiantly should have tested it even then. 2001 Fazer, after my experience, I'd be testing it. especially if you know it's not been changed. Love VF750F videos. Keep up the good work.