Відео

would love that answer as well

Yes, it’s the BFT200D

Hondas at least you can get some parts from local auto parts store vs marine. They think their marine parts are worth the extra $

Its the fact that the honda is a v6 vs a 4cyl suzuki. Puts a lot of stress on the motor with that much hp. Love the suzuki but a v6 is the way to go depending on the weight of the boat.

@@johnfuller9441 if both motors have same the cubic inches or CC in combustion chamber and make the same power at 52000 rpm then the number of pistons is just more moving parts, may as well go for a lighter block. There are great examples of this in automotive world and aviation for last 1/2 century. Combustion chamber capacity determines how hard a motor will run, not the number of cylinders.

@omieyouknowme tell that to the all the guys who bought 4cyl turbo ford and chevy trucks and tried to pull anything with them. Boom! Torque plays a big role in getting the power to the end use ( wheels or prop) there is just no arguing that a v6 outboard works less to get 200 hp that an i4 and will last a whole lot longer.

@@johnfuller9441 there is no replacement for displacement is what I'm saying. A 2.0l motor be it a V6 or I4 will work the same to breath the same amount of air and fuel. Those 4cyl trucks with turbos, I agree, but really we live in a disposable world now. How many people actually put more than 50 hours on a boat motor outside of guides and folks that are hardcore. For majority of owners that motor will last them till it's paid for then they will replace it when it does have issues.

We typically change them as part of an annual service. This customer however is a guide and runs his motor 400 hours a year. For him we replace driveshaft seals every other service. He does 4 services a year. After changing the driveshaft seals we pressure and vacuum test the gear case. If it’s good we don’t don’t change shift-shaft or prop-shaft seals.

You shouldn’t unless you mess with the shift shaft. Should go right back in when you’re finished with the water pump.

@@ammarineservices5503 thanks… very well done video.

@@Shawnny02 Thank you!!

We have partnered up with Partsvu an online parts warehouse. Here’s a link to the correct water pump kit. www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f225-f250-f300-4-2l-v6-vf250-outboard-water-pump-repair-kit-6ce-w0078-01-00.html A&MMARINESAVE10 - $10 off orders $100 or more A&MMARINESAVE20 - $20 off orders $200 or more

Yk that tohatsu and honda are not the same even though they are owned by honda company

@WillumSrensen 150hp and up are the same motor Honda and tohatsu, under 150hp the motor is different

No sir. That’s only with Mercruiser Alpha drives.

It is!

@@ammarineservices5503 heard its good stuff. Do you use it on prop splines? I'm running low on evinrude triple guard grease and I'm looking for a solid replacement!

@@christopherwilliams4647 we use it on everything.

We would recommend not running the impeller dry for any reason. Materials haven’t changed much over the years.

That’s great!!

Tohatsu is a much better value then the competition. Much better price, quality and warranty. To top it off the customer service is top notch. Motors are manufactured in Japan and held to a extremely high standard.

they use Honda engines inside as base, but no Honda's VTEC system attached. So, it is simplier than Honda and app. 15% cheaper then

Depends on what your definition of fast is. We achieved overall great performance. That’s what we were looking for. Hole shot, top end, fuel economy and handling.

Every 100 hours or once a year. Whatever comes first.

Great question! I don’t add any fuel to fuel/water separator. The VST on the engine holds enough fuel to keep the engine running long enough prime the fuel system. Sometimes I’ll primer the fuel system using the primer bulb if the fuel system doesn’t want to prime.

Yes.

I was just about to ask the same question... thank you for asking this and thank you A&M for the answer! Excellent video.

This particular motor doesn’t have a drive shaft collar. Is that what you’re referring to?

Thank you for your feedback! We primarily work on boat/engines that are used in saltwater. We do apply Grease to the driveshaft as mentioned in the video. There is no need to grease the splines on the driveshaft because the driveshaft runs through the oil pump which is sealed keeping salt water and moisture out. I think greasing the water pump cup is excessive and not needed. Due to the saltwater I would only use grease or anti seize on hardware removed/installed during routine service. Hope this helps and thanks for watching our video.

Marine Tech Tools Yamaha Fuel Water Separator Wrench - Safely Remove Fuel Water Separator Filter - Fits on Yamaha 4 Strokes 150 to 350 HP (Serial Number 0406 to Current) www.amazon.com/dp/B074SWRNGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NGR0ME9E00HZ40QW2NG4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Added a link to a tool on Amazon.

@@ammarineservices5503 Thanks for the response .... I posted my problem on The Hull Truth and got lots of responses... AND You apparently are followed there too!. Check it out... www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1171292-yamaha-fuel-filter-canister-removal.html#post14847970

The glue is normal from the factory. You can clean it off and reuse the housing. There is no need to glue the new cup in the house.

@@ammarineservices5503 Thanks for your help ... But have a Bigger problem now! I installed the new Yamaha re-build kit per your exact steps. Started the engine with hose and muffs on. No water squirting out of the Telltale! Let the motor run for 5 min ... and just a small sporatic trickle started to squirt. It has always been a strong stream. SO... assuming I installed the impeller fins backward I tore down the lower unit again. Impeller was correct! All gaskets looked correct. Re-assembled again and started engine... SAME THING... No water flowing out the Telltale. What could be the problem??

@@colemant6845 are you running off ear muffs, engine flush or in the water?

@@ammarineservices5503 Ear Muffs .... In my driveway with water hose to ear muffs. and the Yamaha is a 2017 250 VMAX SHO

@@ammarineservices5503 I tried sealing up all the other open holes in the lower unit with another set of ear muffs and kept the water supply ear muff on the lower unit water inlet. I then squeezed the water supply earmuffs tighter so less water escaped. The Telltale water flow did increase a little... Not a strong stream, but an improvement. Could it be this Yamaha 250hp VMAX SHO requires more water flow than a set of ear muffs and a water hose can supply??

2019 F250 4.2L.

I’m not sure what will happen. I’d rather be safe and fix it properly.

It’s not a SHO but same water pump.

@@ammarineservices5503 thanks, great video!

I believe the 3.3L 250, 225 and 200 use the plastic collar, metal collar and 3 metal rings on top of the impeller. Make sure the wavy metal ring is in between the two flat metal rings. You’re also supposed to put upward pressure on the driveshaft before tapping the metal collar on the plastic collar to set the pinion gear in the lower unit. I hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick reply

Sounds like you missed the shift shaft connection. You’ll need to drop the lower unit just enough to visually see the shift shaft on the lower unit slide into the shift shaft in the midsection. Make sure the lower unit and control box are in neutral.