Відео

@@cubarnett the poly part of poly shades should be what makes it not bleed. Takes a while to dry. Test the bottom of the piece first. Of course not being able to see what you are working with I can’t be certain but my guess is it should work.

@@blumonkey238 it dries very quickly minutes

@ thank you! So if I use it on my kitchen table I can use it safety even after minutes?

@@cryptopeter1 thanks! I hope sponsorships come too 😉 Glad your mom is ok,too. When the hurricanes aren’t around there is a lot to keep you young here.

@@whatheatherdid9615 thank you Heather! I was tempted to leave a door off as I am so pleased with that fabric 🤭

@@tigq1430 it is a remarkable product!

Thank you I tried to keep it fun

@@CopperCactusDIY I miss seeing your work! That fabric was on clearance at JoAnn’s, I love it

@@AskingSpot aw, thanks for saying that. I'll be back sooner or later... anxiously awaiting workshop space! In the meantime, clearly need to hit up JoAnn!

I don’t think so…you might want to take a picture of your piece and show someone at your local hardware store and see what they think.

I’m not an expert but here is my theory: To narrow the choices down, an oil based polyurethane tends to yellow overtime. Which can be a nice “antique” or aged compliment to a lot of pieces. Water based polyurethane/polyacrylic goes on milky white but dries clear. (It is my preferred choice.) However, if it is a piece for outside, spar urethane is the only way to go. As for the shine, well Gloss isn’t as popular as it once was, especially with poly topcoats as it makes things look plastic (IMO). Satin (my fav) is mildly reflective and is on the fringe of being popular again and tends to be the middle of the road option. I believe it gives the best appearance of being like a classic shellac topcoat. Then there is Flat/Matte topcoat which I have used a lot, too. It is the current popular finish for pieces you want to look as though they are left natural. Always remember not to put a water based top coat on top of an oil base (supposedly possible after it cures for ages but even then I don’t trust it.) But you can put the same base (oil or water) on top of itself after a light sand. So if you put a matte down and wanted it more reflective, try a satin. Note, it is easy to step from matte to satin or gloss than it is to go from gloss to satin or matte. Hope that helps!

Thank you for your kind words and support, I appreciate it!

@@OwlingDogDesign oh coming from you that is a high compliment! I love your pattern selections 😉

@@AskingSpot Aww, you are so sweet. And I'm glad you made out ok in the hurricane. We can surely say now, "Margie wouldn't let a little hurricane stop Her!"😀

@@diysbydar Thank you! You know now I like the inside so much I’m reluctant to close the door 😄

@@thekraftycreech aw, thank you Krystal you are the best! Oo if I had purple or green I could really go for that iridescent look🤔

@AskingSpot oooohhhh maybe!!! That would be soooo cool!!! Its worth a try!!

@@gerardbao I couldn’t say for sure but as a guess, if you are trying to make a scratch less noticeable and you tested the current finish to see if it is a lacquer or shellac topcoat, it should. Always test in an inconspicuous spot. To be safer you could take a picture of the piece and show it to someone who works in a hardware store and knows the products as well as your piece.

That’s not recommended by the company because basically what it’s doing is it’s briefly making what was on a piece wet again. So if you try to change the tint using it, you may get an uneven finish.

@@gailbancer1571 according to the company: There is no need to put another finish on top, just Feed-N-Wax to help protect and maintain the newly restored finish. (My guess, can’t be certain, is the oils would be fine and generally speaking a wax can go on top of anything but nothing can go on top of a wax.)

We are so glad we weren't here for it. Even though the house is fine and only had a power blink, the sound of all those things crashing around would have given us a heart attack!

@AskingSpot i completely agree!! Just the thought of what could have happend too!

Weirdly this is the most pleasant post hurricane weather we have had to cleanup in (used to live in Louisiana). Doesn’t get sickening hot until 2 ish. Happy for your aunt! Our daughter’s friend lives on Siesta Key (off Midnight Pass the main road) and they said they only lost their fence while with Helene their ground floor got flooded. Direct hits are strange.

@@diysbydar Thank you! It has been exhausting

True however Polyacrylic is a high-molecular-weight composite of acryl and polyacrylamide, usually derived from a polyacrylamide gel. Generally speaking Polyacrylic is always water based Polyurethane is either water or oil based but more often thought of as oil based.

@@AskingSpot Thanks for the clarification. I thought they were both water-based.

@@WhistlingMeg this is the follow up video that might help ua-cam.com/video/NWjJ2ao2NnQ/v-deo.htmlsi=CqQe2Rk5uxDIE3Qm Unfortunately, there is not as easy of a fix when you have a poly top.

Sorry to hear that happened. I am not an expert by any means and would refer you to your local hardware store as they will be better able to help you. You might want to bring a cabinet door/drawer with you so they can see what you are dealing with, good luck.

@@AskingSpot um, home depot?

@@kimwaltz6114 on the piece I was trying to work on those methods did not work that great. I have a future video that showed my experience.

@@diysbydar I don’t work with metal often enough to warrant it 🤔

@@gregoryagogo Hahaha but you know there are those people🤭

Glad it was helpful!

@@monaali1898 indeed😆

Ok i thought i should subscribe you from my main channel so i can watch all the DIY videos without my husband

@@monaali1898 that was possibly our goofy dog that whines when I make him stay indoors while I’m out working with harsh chemicals 😷

Thank you!