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I don’t own this bike any longer otherwise, I’d go out and look for you. I would recommend that you hold the cable up in the Location It would be to attach the battery and then look for a paint removed frame bolt hole on the frame within reach of the other end of your cable. It shouldn’t be hard to find

I would not recommend a viscosity of 20 W 50 for this engine. It’s too thick and I don’t think it’s recommended. Also, the oil bathes the clutch plates in addition to lubricating the engine. that’s why you want to get oil is made for motorcycles engines. You can order your oil online if you can’t find it locally. I do that for some of my vehicles because I have to use special oil in them.

@@jimgaskell1833 fantastic thank you I will get the right oil recommendation

Sorry for the late reply. I'm pretty sure this bike calls for either 10-30 or 10-40. both oil viscosities will work. If you are in a high temperature climate I would go for the 10-40 oil since it has a broader range for the heat. The 10 represents how low the "viscosity" will get in cold temps and the 40 is how think the viscosity will get in high temps. the viscosity changes with the heat of the oil going from low to high. Also, the oil I'm using is made for motorcycles and not cars. you want to buy oil made for motorcycles because the engine oil is also lubricating the clutch. This oil has a special additive for the clutch. Hope this helps.

I’ve learned to replace batteries before they go bad. In a motorcycle that don’t get used frequently your looking at a 3-4 year life. On my cars it’s 5 years. Nothing worse then repairing your toy when you finally get time to ride it.

@@jimgaskell1833 i use mine daily (8000 km in 6 mounth) but i bought my vt600c in spring and i do not know much how old is the battery but i ll replace it this winter

KN-303 filter from K&N

I’d recommend having the Honda dealer look it up for you and give you the part number and a quote. You can then shop it. Getting the right size is really important on this battery or you’ll have to take other parts off to install and remove it. Good luck!

No space under the terminal?

Send a photo

@@jimgaskell1833 Thanks, i tried it and it works fine. I guess it's a newer model of battery that doesn't require a nut. The bolt screws right into the node, which is a solid metal rectangle instead of the thin metal housing of the older batteries. Thanks again for your videos! Was able to get my dad's old Shadow on and turning over. Now to get oil changed and hope that fixes the oil light.

@@jimgaskell1833 Nope. Solid metal.

@@usillyrabbitu so then it doesn’t have treads in it? I’ve not seen a battery terminal like that. It either has it own threads or needs a nut underneath.

You do not need to remove anything other than what I show “if you have the original correct fitting battery”. If someone put in a larger battery and had to remove more parts, then you’ll have to repeat that process.

@@jimgaskell1833 I meant the cigarette filter you stuck in there to keep the nut from falling out.

@@usillyrabbitu no it’s paper. No harm leaving it in there.

I did with a I did it with a socket and extension. Don’t remember have trouble with mine

There is a little line that marks it on the stick.

The only way I could accurately answer your question is if you are using the same model thermostat and connecting it to one of the two oil furnaces on the market. It works for both. If you have any variation to what I’m showing here, then you’d have to look at a schematic to verify. I get request a lot from folks that have entirely different systems and even different thermostats. Let me know what equipment you have and I’ll see if I can help. Jim

@@jimgaskell1833 It’s an Intertherm gas furnace. What I’m thinking of doing is removing the little jumper clip from the R and RC and giving them their own power source when I connect the adapter. I’ll plug one end of the adapter into the RC and the other into the C and they’d all three have their own power supply. There is a C- wire behind the thermostat but when I checked the wiring on the furnace it’s older I’m guessing because it isn’t fancy like you see on most modern systems. Plus, someone cut the wires. So that’s why I am going to go the adapter route. I appreciate your quick response!

@@projectjster just because the other wires measure voltages on them doesn’t mean they are supplying power. The power supply you are adding supplies power to your thermostat and that’s its only job.

@@jimgaskell1833 True, looking at the wiring diagram it’s showing that Rc is power it has the jumper for R. The thermostat I currently have is battery powered it’s the Honeywell TH5220D and I’m swapping it with a RTH6500WF. Wish there was a way to the wiring for this furnace but it’s a cluster under there. I was thinking about maybe using my multi meter to see how many volts were running through that wire. Would just like to be sure first.

@@jimgaskell1833 I had also meant to put in the Thermostat I was replacing my old one with in my original post. 🤷‍♂️

I not sure what screws you are referring too. Which side of the bike sitting on the seat looking down?

@@jimgaskell1833 the right side to remove the negative cable.

See my “remove battery video”

Forrest, I’m assuming you are talking about the accelerator pump in the carburetor. Is this correct? This is somewhat major surgery since the carbs are mounted between the cylinders. There is really no in bike repair procedure I can think of. You’d need to pull the carbs and reseal them. Before you do that though be sure the leak isn’t coming from somewhere else, like above the carbs, a tube, fitting, etc. these carbs are really reliable. The only time you usually have to pull them is due to leaving gas in them for a long time which deteriorates the seals, etc. there are a lot of videos showing how to remove the carbs. You’ll also find services you can mail your carbs to to get them full refurbished. Again, double verify where the leak is coming from. Leaks can be tricky

Paper is non conductive/insulator so it’s not going to harm anything.

Are you replacing them with an aftermarket design that is different than the original? If so you’ll need to improvise. There is a lot of cheap crap I was there so you have to choose wisely. I have a few sources I buy from that usually provide consistent quality. Bike bandit would be one

@@jimgaskell1833 I went amazon. The ones I'm replacing are very cheap metal plastic and already broken on one side. I decided to go similar. Similar in terms of color and probable same factory in China. Except I went rectangular instead of bullet. I felt since the taillight is more rectangular that it is a better match. When I replace the bullet ones in front I'll stick to circular to match the headlight shape. I almost went led than though nah not on a cruiser.

Sounds like he’ll need to add some wire, and may be a connector. Or you could just use wire nuts or splice and tape them

@@jimgaskell1833 probably will splice and join to existing. I'll be removing the seat and passenger seat and sissy bar . will be a pain. Its really a pain lining up the seat screws putting seat back on.

I’d keep if flat. Run the engine to warm the oil before changing and it will flow nicely

Watch my video on battery installation. There should be a good view of the battery where you can see the numbers on it

In the video you can see where the battery positive terminal is. You can connect to that and run it up under the seat and then attach the other wire to the frame if you’re looking for 12 V to power your speaker. If it doesn’t have a sound fuse you might want to wire it after the fuse for the bike

@@jimgaskell1833 wow thank you for quick response ive been spending en embarrassing amount of time trying to get one red wire and one black wire connected . I just got boss phantom Bluetooth speakers. Have gas tank off. Lots of parts off. It doesn't have a fuse or an off and on. I was thinking having a Wire go straight to the fuse box. Not sure which fuse to piggyback to. Ground I can go to negative terminal . I need longer cable cause supplied cable length isnt long enough. I never noticed the fuse box has a diagram. I tried running to a fuse and inadvertantly was using a spare fuse when I was trying to test thr speakers and was unsuccessful.

@@jimgaskell1833 I'm on way to auto parts store to try and figure out connector and extra wire

@@championx1 You really have a lot of options. If I were mounting the speaker on the handle bars, I’d run the wiring in the back of the headlight. You can find both a positive and negative wire in side there and you’ll keep the wiring really clean. The headlight turns on after it’s running so if you want want power when the key is off you’ll need to find a positive that’s before the key switch.

@@jimgaskell1833 I found a video where someone did it. Its a certain bicolor wire . problem is that I wasnt sure if that same color scheme applied to all bikes or at least age range maybe. I have a 2003 Honda shadow. Yes speakers are mounted on handle bars. I did run under neath gas tank but nothing is permanent and I can snake them out easily. So its the wiring within the inside of the headlight area ? I have to review the video . I was so hesitat and scared of screwing up my bike I had originally decided to push wires on through. I do havr a volume knob too. I found a space near seat area . there is a lot of wiring I'd have to probably really trim the original wires that came with the boss phantom speakers

I did the crash bars a number of years ago and I can't figure out where I got them. Ebay only give you the last three years of history. I know I bought them on-line. I've bought a lot of parts from Bike Bandit but I checked to see if they had them and they don't. I think I paid around $150-$170 for them. They work great in that if you drop the bike it doesn't go all the way over. This is my wife's bike and she has a tendency to drop it in an intersection if she doesn't ease out on the clutch in first gear. First gear is too big on this bike. Honda should have made it a five speed and make the first gear low like they did the Rebel. The Rebel has to be one of the best starter bikes. Sorry I couldn't be more help. You can find one that first you just have to search the aftermarket offerings. Thx Jim

@@jimgaskell1833 thanks for the info! Yeah, the one thing I wish I could change about this bike is to make it a 5-speed. That and adding a center stand.