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Entirely possible! Better yet. You can get the whole WE slide assembly and use the Marui hop chamber and recoil spring and guide on the Marui lower frame. It will work. On the WE lower frame you can use the Marui slide and blowback housing as well. However, the outer barrel causes the slide to lock up so you need to use the Marui plastic one and it will work. This way you won't have to do any filing work.

Thank you for responding!! That sounds great. I have a Guarder stainless steel slide installed now with steel barrel. Would the we nozzle with nozzle housing work inside that? Stock marui hop up chamber. Thanks in advance!

@@philcrown4964 It might just slip in with modifications, but the stability is questionable. The front of the WE bb housing is held in by a screw which is absent on any Marui variant. I would have to try it. Interestingly, pictures of the bb paired with the guarder steel slide don't show the extra material on the sides which makes me wonder how they're secured in place besides the sight screws. How is the kick on that steel slide BTW?

The kick is nice! The bbu is secured by the sight screws. I am hoping to up the kick with a we bbu and nozzle because of the bigger nozzle.

@@philcrown4964 I'll be getting a guarder aluminum one. I just don't know when it will arrive. I'll try fitting it there and let you know. Hopefully it's like the steel one.

How is the condition of the pin and part at 1:29 to 1:34? If you notice that part has steps that ride the pin. This is also supposed to be spring-loaded. Is the spring still there?

@@htwarrior6801 Thanks for the reply! All the parts are in place and there are no missing parts. But one thing that concerns me is that the pin you mentioned should only come out on one side, but it comes out on both sides. It looks like the pin is badly worn. However, when I fully reassembled it and checked it again after operation, the pin is still in place and sticking out. To be more specific, after I set the safety lever to safe, when I pull the trigger a few times, the safety lever comes down little by little due to the impact of the hammer. After about 3-4 times, it comes down to the firing state and fires. As I was writing, I thought about it, but it is in the safe state, so the hammer shouldn't make an impact. 🤔

​@@_r0551a_ You are correct. The hammer shouldn't come down on safe. Please check your trigger bar and linkage. There should also be a spring that pushes the linkage up.

11.1v

Glad you found it useful!

I'll double-check and get back to you. EDIT: Ah it seems I was mistaken. Can't really confirm 100% for a KJW, but I always thought that KJWs were clones of TM. The WE p226 had different lugs on the chamber that wouldn't readily slip into the lower TM frame's rail or vice versa. Probably better luck with TM style on a KJW with minimal filing if it comes down to it.

Do you have a time stamp?

@@htwarrior6801 I can't remove the extractor from the slide.

If it's the external "extractor" like on a real piece, that is just aesthetic and cannot be removed. Are you perhaps talking about the internal blow back housing?

@@htwarrior6801 It cannot be removed. got it. thank you.

@@yuichifluorite You're very much welcome. Hope it's settled.

Is the magazine release or the tab on the mag worn? What is the age of the unit?

@htwarrior6801 I got it back in 2011 I believe. I've hardly used it in battle and it's been sitting in a box for almost 10 years. now that I want to fix it I come across that problem. the mag does look worn. so maybe it's a mag problem?

@@tacticaltexan1730 the mag release is what keeps the magazine held in place. I'd look at that for signs of wear as well if the magazine checks out. Is there a noticeable gap between the magazine drop plate and lower frame that you need to fill, when you push up against it?

@htwarrior6801 oh yes. very noticeable gap. I believe you may be right about the magazine catch. it's funny how it wore out after little use in the field.

@@tacticaltexan1730 Maybe a worn/broken spring? Hopefully nothing major.

That's great!

Once again. Just whatched it all over to change the trigger. Really apreciate that mate. @@htwarrior6801

Good to hear! Seven years is a while. See if the o-rings are still in good condition.

Oh my. Hope you're alright.

My pleasure! Glad you liked it.

Hey, thanks for reaching out. Stock AEGs should come with a stock ASN that users can reference the length of. Most are also sold and labeled to a specific model unless you're mixing and matching for a specific reason. For an aeg to also cause a jam due to a short ASN it would have to be incredibly mismatched. This goes back to referencing as close to the original length as possible (unless you're doing some kind of mod). For finding the proper length you can also easily observe how your chosen ASN interfaces with hop packing through the chamber's feed tube. As with any modification or repair, I advise individuals to do a test fit and run an occular and by-hand inspection before finalizing everything. Thanks again for your concern.

What do you mean? A WE hop?

Hope up sliver dragon we tech

@@anthonyestrada1383 Oh sorry I don't have any. WE silver dragons are hi-capas right? Either WE or hicapa chambers should work. Or try aftermarket.

They go for about 22 USD

Interesting. I'll have to try it some time. Thanks! 👍

So the axle has slots cut into it. The sears act like claws and insert into those slots. You'll need to lift/pivot them up and off the axle so it can come off the frame.

@@htwarrior6801 how high should i lift it,caz i got it all the way up but axle dont came off

@@gamerl.w2258 You need to lift more than one and the axle might also be pressed slightly against the frame so you'll need to knock it out a bit initially. The sears should be lifted until they don't show up through the hole of the axle and also enough that they don't snag.

@@htwarrior6801 got it, thx, now i can do my magpul grey usp

@@gamerl.w2258 Great!

🙂👋

Have you tried looking at a Maple Leaf aftermarket adjustment wheel? I haven't done the measurements, but maybe it could be of help. You might have to adjust the tensioner though if an aftermarket one is not available. Now that I look again, finding a spare KJW KP-01 chamber is pretty rare. I was lucky I encountered one in the wild!

I can't confirm the hop packing's compatibility, but based on what images are left the outer barrel is not the same. Therefore, the chamber might not be the same as well. The collar the hop adjustment key attaches to is also not the same.

After securing the bottom part of the clip (to yank on), I fished for and pressed the top hook down with a flat driver so it can be released from the frame. It's a springy part so you need to compress it before pulling it out. Otherwise the top will catch on the inside of the frame.

I forgot to mention. I have a written article linked in the description. There's a closer look at the spring there.

:) 👋

:) thank you.

Thank you. Glad to have you. :)

Kept it off on all shots. :3 But that's a good point. I wonder what the numbers would look like. I assume even less Joules on the stock cylinder and spring. 🤔

I mostly buy G&P copper shims. They have them in 0.10 and 0.20 mm thickness. If you can find thinner ones, they can help you accomplish a tighter shim job.

Yeah. My first reaction also when I started reading airsoft mechanics forums. 😅

Still pretty weighty. About 18.58 grams with a lonex pom piston head and the bearing removed.

There is a small hole on the chassis where that spring goes into. You can see a clearer view of it in 5:15. The lower frame has a ledge that stops the spring I think.

@@htwarrior6801 i have almost a little pin in there, it doesnt sit on that? Ive looked for blueprints online but couldnt find, sorry if im taking up your time

@@sinik07 No worries. Glad to help if I can. There is a pin, but it should sit on top of the spring which goes into the hole. The chassis has to be on the lower frame though, or else it will go right through. Now the pin that sits on top of the spring will form the surface that keeps the trigger bar linkage floating.

This is called the slide release spring. It pushes the slide release out a bit. I assume it minimizes drag against the lower frame and applies tension to keep it from feeling loose or flopping around.

@@htwarrior6801 Thank you sir~

@@user-vi7se4df7b You're most welcome!

Gosh that's scary. Seen so many fatal shootings caught on video due to misidentification. Glad you're still with us. 😅

@@htwarrior6801 oh yea, back in the days, I was a juvenile. Many gangs. Many fights. I almost died 3 times. But I'm glad I'm still alive too. ^^

I just went to visit.

Unfortunately Scatterplot no longer sells. However there are likely other vendors who have their own kind depending where you live.

Don't use those in a build ever. It is better to correct aoe using nylon washers behind your piston head then to do this.

😂

For the similarity to match, most likely if it is a KSC /KWA System 7. For the slide length I am sorry to say I have returned the unit after its repair had completed so I cannot give you an answer.

@@htwarrior6801 on my outer barrel is written Usp .45 auto, thats why i think they can be slide compatible (except for the barrel lenght)

@@Ricardo_Rooster_Gsg9 You are right. I would also be inclined to believe that the slides are compatible if both are system 7.

Just take it slow and be gentle.

Glad it was able to help.

In the final assembly you will need to grease the gears and axles. The shimming is done by feel. Adding lube / grease during this process can dull the spin and contact feel of the gears making it difficult to judge resistance.