Відео

From my understanding, yeah. The autos don't have a true center diff like the manuals, rather a clutch pack is used. The center e-lock (I've heard this referred to as c-solenoid mod) is just an electronic override to get the clutch to fully engage regardless of traction or gear selection. If you wanted to achieve a similar function in a manual, you could switch to a stronger center LSD, custom modify an automatic locking diff (like a torque locker), or if the vehicle is only used on loose/slick surfaces, weld the center diff.

Torq Masters make only rear lockers. The front and center lockers required substantial machining of parts to accomplish.

@@BonkersBaja good to know, thanks!

Converted a 1.19:1 dual range by machining in the low range gear set from a late 80s GL giving it 1.59:1... big difference!

@@BonkersBaja Oh wow! That was the best low-range reduction ratio Subaru ever offered, correct?

@@AWDfreak correct... and the machining involved for the conversion from a 1.19 box to make it 1.59 is fairly modest... just need the old GL donor which are very cheap from i-pull type wrecking yards

The stance you see in partly due to having custom-built offset spacers. The tires are 29 inches, and the front are 3 inch tall body spacers and offset an inch forward, while the rear 3 inch spacers are offset an inch backward, lengthening the overall wheelbase and making room in the fenders for larger tires. I don't think any ready-made kits are offset in this way. Also, I needed to lengthen the propeller drive shaft to accommodate this. But without the offset, I recommend getting a lift kit that includes body and frame spacers along with the strut top spacers. This makes wheel alignment much easier. Many people put on King Springs, but I could not find any available. On the rear, I used Moog cc250 coils that are built for a Mazda b2000. They are a variable spring rate and sit a little taller. On the front, I am using a coilover design that I then lengthened so that I didn't need a strut top spacer. But they sit and ride similar to an OEM with a top spacer.

It's the subaru r160 5bolt rear locker by Torq Masters modified to fit the front, but it is not a drop-in. Nobody builds a kit that directly fits the front. This front build requires building custom axle stubs and spacers to get the locker gears placed correctly.

@@benmerrell81 I was hoping it would be easier. I won’t even know where to go to get the axle stubs made. Thanks for the info

They have a slight clicking sound. The 1 bolt carriers are a little smaller and quieter than the 5 bolt carriers. Honestly, I don't hear it from inside the vehicle. The road noise of sand and gravel is usually louder than the locker. There are other UA-camrs that have made videos to hear the clicking noise levels. They get quieter over time as the mating surfaces polish each other. By adding some nylon spacers and softer springs, it maintains function while reducing noise even further. It's a low-cost modification but well worth it. The front and center custom builds are beyond the majority of DIYers. But I think every Subaru should have a rear locker, even road only drivers.

@@benmerrell81 cool thank you i was wondering about noise inside the car it sounds manageable im looking for ways to make the subaru perform better like i know it can i wonder if a kit or special lockers can be made for front and centre to make it a bit easier for diy enthusiast's again thank you for the info

Unfortunately, there are no easy kits for front differential lockers. So it takes some pretty serious customization to make one work. Torq is developing a locker for the Ascent rear that may be a better size and easier to modify for a front differential. But it is still unreleased and would still require some modification of the CV cups. If your ride has the 4EAT, why are you planning a DCCD mod? Just curious. Personally, I would just put a computer override button to manually tell the MPT clutch packs to lock. It is significantly cheaper and easier, and I have had very good results from doing this. In fact, the silver Baja shown currently has this for a center lock. I love having the front locked, but comparatively speaking, the rear locker plus an MPT override button and decent tires will get you 95% of the traction you will ever need. The remaining small gains of adding a front locker is mainly just for pride, but if you're a determined nut like me, then don't forget to post anything you build!

does someone make a product that allows you to manually make clutch packs lock?

You can do it electronically by splicing the right wires. It tricks the awd system to think it's slipping.

As-is from TORQ they are only mildly noticeable. In my H6 swapped Baja I can't hear it unless I turn sharp and slow and then specifically pay attention. Otherwise I don't even hear it. If possible clicking noise is your only hesitation, then go ahead and get a locker. You won't regret it.

@@benmerrell81 Sweet! I appreciate the info. I'm trying to give the little Foz every bit of help it can get since it's a CVT lol

Agree 💯

The front locker requires making splined and hardened stub axles... which would be prohibitive to most people. The center lock was even more extreme. I did this project as a challenge to myself to prove that it is possible. The handling on road is actually pretty good. I absolutely love it on snowy or icy roads. The center lock clicks quite a bit on sharp turns. The front and rear lockers are nearly silent. I'm working on a syncronizer for the center lock which will eliminate it's clicking.

Video please

Custom made parts. Not an easy build and took countless hours. Unless you have the machining knowledge and equipment and the insanity to build the parts it needs, the most reasonable option for your forester is to just use a DCCD. But modifying this one for an auto locker was a fun challenge. The front locker was a much easier build. Planning on doing a build video for the front diff in the next couple months.

@@benmerrell81 which locker models did you use? I'm assuming the center required some spline mods in order to mate up with the output and pinion splines.

I should have added that I have a 2018 Crosstek 6MT going in my 2001 Outback and a Forester 4.44 LSD for the rear. Would love to go Torq's all the way around.

@Shadow 80 I haven't disassembled a 6mt. A brief Google search makes me suspect the existing center differential casing would be too small to fit a locker. Newer generations seem to be shorter and more compact. But without decent measurements and hands-on, I can't say for sure. The black Baja in this video has an early generation 5mt as it had a roomier center diff. It required lathe work to carve out all of the viscous coupler; modified drive pin to accommodate the locker; a custom-spline added to the geared shaft that drives the rear output; and a lengthened and then custom-splined forward pinion shaft to drive the front differential. It was done using a 1bolt r160 locker from Torq due to its smaller dimensions. There really isn't any sort of drop in adapters that can be made, so this is beyond most DIYers. The front is slightly more reasonable to build. But it requires turning down the half axle stubs and splining them to match the locker and rehardening them. The cross pin needs reduced and rehardened. Plus, some figuring out of spacers, etc, to make the locker sit where it belongs with proper tolerances. It may however become much easier and simpler if Torq ever releases the Ascent lockers.

@@benmerrell81 I'm not far from pulling the 6MT center to compare to my 5MT center. The two are nearly identical overall. Major differences are the switch to cable shift on the 6MT and the added forward ratio.

TORQ Masters Industries produces automatic lockers for Subarus. 2 different models based on which differential you have.