Відео

probably so

not this one though ;) but in seriousness, thanks for the info and letting me know

@@magnumsalyer no problem dude one tip is that you better use mould king 4.0 or buwizz to let those two black monsters release more power! ;)

oh yes! I so want to use either of those! unfortunately I don't currently have the money for either.... but one day!

@@magnumsalyer I recommend mould king 4.0 for the cheapest option :) It doesn't really cost that much here in Indonesia. Only IDR 300K :)

Well next time I visit Indonesia maybe I'll look in to it. right now I'm looking at the CaDa system, which I think is similar to mould king (I'm looking to buy it in South Africa, then bring it up here)

yeah, our lego scene really exploded in the years following your departure

Thanks!

thanks for the comment, you make a good point about 1 battery box maybe not being enough. I should probably test to see if 2 work better, I chose one battery box cause I didn't want too much weight. about the planetary wheel hubs grinding themselves under heavy load; I didn't think that would happen but I'll certainly be careful about it. have you ever heard of it happening?

thank you!

thanks !

Thanks!

yeah, it kind of got out of hand.... ;)

yep, I am still building, I've just been on vacation for the past 2 months which is why I haven't been uploading. but I hope to rectify that in the coming months!

Thanks a lot!

I didn't have 4 linear actuators so I had to use 2 pneumatic ones, I actually made a mistake putting the pneumatic ones on the bottom cause they move too slow, I should have put them up on the arm. thanks for the comment!

Yeah, that's a good idea

@@magnumsalyer It would also behave more like a typical cvt as when one driving side gets bigger the driven side gets smaller and vise versa.

much better than my solution

thanks a lot!

@@magnumsalyer you’re welcome

thanks!

Thanks, will do!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks!!

Glad to hear it!

Thanks!

thanks!

Thanks! 👍

"I second"

I'm not surprised that other people have thought of this. The thing about water rusting the cylinders, do you know how quickly it happens?

@@magnumsalyer That was 20 years ago, unfortunately a career in Lego was discouraged. I sold everything and pitched a lot of ideas. I vaguely remember surface rust happening overnight, if the cylinders weren't dried thoroughly after testing. Some types of plastic and rubber don't fare well with oil, but it might be a better idea to try. Messy, but no risk of rust.

It's so dangerous, I almost lost 3 fingers just trying to film it! 😳😂

maybe it helps with spacing if the small and big gear get swapped (big gear in the center, small on the outside) - this would allow more adjustable gears on the same adjustment gearing for an overall rounder shape. (i think up to 8 might be possible with that, but 6 is more reasonable) also maybe put the adjustable gears on the other side of the linkage, so your minimum diameter isnt restricted by the triple rod connector, but just by the center rod

"also maybe put the adjustable gears on the other side of the linkage, so your minimum diameter isnt restricted by the triple rod connector, but just by the center rod" I didn't understood about the center rod, can you develop please ?

I don't remember the exact year or set, but I'm pretty sure it is a star wars set. When I was buying the frames on BL the cheapest ones for the quantity I bought were these brown ones (which I kind of regret buying just cause I don't have many other brown technic pieces 😅)

That's a really good idea. Thanks 👍

Could be done with a gear on an axle or liftarm put under tension by some rubber bands.

Yes, this could do that. But for the sake of keeping it simple for the proof of concept I decided to just have a motor change the ratio

Thanks! You are too! 🤩

@@magnumsalyer Why Thankyou Sir IceCream!😊

@@cherryberrysn3618 ok, this comment would have clued me in, if I hadn't figured it out yet 😂

Thanks 🤩

It is possible (I just now tried it), you just move the gray lever until you see the gear box get into the position you want it to be in. This set up has pretty fine control, but it could be improved to have a finer control. If this was, say, in a truck model, you'd want to put either a stepper to insure that the gear box remains in one of the 3 positions, or at the very least put a position indicator to show what gear you're in

@@magnumsalyer I have so many ideas, I’ll have to share them later!

@@GearsAndBricks I do too! Though I still have to build the ideas. You'll hopefully see the ideas come to fruition in upcoming videos 😉

I do not mind if you do that. The usual remuneration would be appreciated: mention/shout out, etc... But I would be happy for you to show it on your channel. It is after all, you who inspired me!

Well I was mainly just making this model as an experiment, but I was going to ask you if you considered doing something like this, or if this would work for your thing?

If there's one thing I've always liked doing, it's coming up with creative centers for satellite dishes 😁😉

@@magnumsalyer In regards to your question of whether or not this would work, this is something I had tried to do on the original antenna subreflector. The catch is that my dish must be inverted from yours. I.e. the glide movement had to be manipulated from the concave side to leave the convex side bare.