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Thanks for watching the video. I appreciate your concern for my feet. I wear shoes when I think it's warranted. I have torque wrenches of various drive sizes. I was pretty obsessive about using them when I rebuilt the engine; see ua-cam.com/video/Sy01kNvJpZ0/v-deo.html. For the suspension, the hardware is pretty hefty so I just put lots of torque on everything and that seems to have worked Ok. Congratulations on knowing the correct assembly order. I had a lot of trial and error in this, yeah. I figured that would be a good reference for other people doing the assembly, as well as a general point that sometimes you end up most of the way through a complex assembly, and then have to back it out and re-do it. I was really stuck on how to install the sway bar for a while.

The sequence is in the video, but just slightly abbreviated. It goes right up to the end of the video. First, put the new bushing on the puller (loosen the silver inner bolt all the way so it's not being held). Insert it in until the bushing touches the hole in the transmission. Give the silver end bolt a few taps until the bushing just sticks. Pull the puller out very gently, hopefully leaving the bushing sticking in the hole. The get something long with a flat end that you can tap the bushing into its socket with. In the end of the video, I used the wrench end of a long 3/8-drive extension. That seated nicely against the bushing. Then I started tapping the outer end with a mallet or hammer. Gently and slowly, and the bushing will slide in. It's a press fit but you can hammer it into place slowly.

I still have that transmission relatively accessible; I might quick film a video of using it as an install tool. I'll comment back here when I do that so you can see it, if that's still something you need.

You're very welcome! This was definitely a video that I took the time to do because it would have been useful the first time I was trying to pull the engine on my VW. I'm glad you like it; feel free to check out the rest of my channel! I hope to finally get the video edited with the engine start sometime this spring.

I *think* all of the bolt patterns are the same. However, my impression is there are a couple of other considerations. As far as the engine mechanically matching the transmission, you'll want to make sure that they're the same "voltage". The starter and flywheel gear teeth are different between 6V version of the Beetle (1966 and previously, approximately) and 12V versions (1967 models and later). I think the engine bell on both sides may be *slightly* different on both engine and transmission as well between 6V and 12V. I"m pretty sure that any 1600 engine is going to be 12V, so you'll want to check your transmission and starter (if any) if they're 12V. If they are, then you may be able to use them as-is. If the transmission/starter combo are 6V, then you might want to consider swapping them out. As far as the transmission, if you need/want to swap it, then it's a consideration whether it's a swing-axle or an IRS. Swing-axle has single axles hinged at the transmission end but otherwise solid. "IRS" has constant-velocity shafts that have U-joints at both ends. I presume it would be more complicated and expensive if you wanted to switch from one to the other. Double-check all of this; I'm not an expert on any of this. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

You can do it easily enough with a right-angled screwdriver. I expect they were trying very hard to use as few different types of fasteners as possible, so all the shroud screws are basically the same. I agree with you; a hex head is much better, so that's what I installed when I assembled the engine the last time.

@fsodn I'm tempted to replace the fan mount screws, too. But if I ever lose all four 10mm sockets I'm screwed.

Oh, and Bocar fuel pump: what nazi rocket scientist placed both fuel hose studs directly over the rear bolt hole? Another crime against humanity committed by the Germans!

I'm happy to talk about the auto engineering aspects, but stop with the political overtones. I'm not sure what you mean about the fuel pump. What are "fuel hose studs"? Studs are solid metal shafts with threads on them. Are you talking about the fuel inlet and outlet on the fuel pump? What "rear bolt hole" do you mean?

Glad it was helpful!

Wonderful, a nice piece of research! Thanks for adding to the conversation! I think that makes sense. In cities that have exclusive bus lanes, or sections of roadway where they're the only allowed vehicles, it makes sense for them to have their own lights. They're always driven by professional drivers, so they can be trained to look for those, and car drivers won't know what they are and so won't accidentally follow them. It sounds from your description that Seattle is a city that uses them for busses. My point of view for this video was seeing those lights in Denver as I walked past them, and I think in Denver (or at least that section of it) they *were* for the light rail, but in other cities they may well be used for other transit vehicles. As another data point, I think I saw the white bar lights in Camden New Jersey when I was there recently used for light rail. Cool--thanks for commenting. This was great!

Great! We're glad you found it helpful!

Glad you found it helpful!

You're welcome! I hope you and your skydiving wife have a good time with your suspension work.

You're very welcome. I hope it was helpful!

Thanks much! Check out my other videos too.

Yes, I understand how to provide pressure. My point was that the pickle fork might work, but I wasn't sure, and it's absolutely guaranteed to shred the boot on the ball joint if there still is one.

I don't know. I'm not a dictionary of VW specs, especially the obscure ones. However, the joint where the bolts go through bottom of the shock tower (on the Super Beetle), through the flange of the steering knuckle, and into the ball joint, is one of the main load-bearing joints of the entire car. Those bolts are very sturdy. I would put as much torque on them as you can with a hand-wrench.

Great, welcome to the channel! I have lots more aviation videos, several about this Mooney (that I no longer own, alas). I'm creating more videos featuring my C-150. I also have lots about my 1972 VW.

And congratulations on your Mooney. Is it manual gear?

Great! We're very glad you found it useful.

👀 Bumped into an old comment of yours in the wild! Was wondering this for myself. I weigh the oil before and after and just log the resultant(it tended to stay the same for each batch, about 5g of oil per cooked piece in my case..) depending on the food. This is good info to know in this video though. :)

I'm sure there's a torque spec, but I don't know that I ever knew it. Since they're a major structural component, critical to the car's safety, I got them as tight as I reasonably could with hand wrenches. I'll try to look it up.

Yes, it was formulated to be a "Water Dispersant" for rockets, thus the "WD". I agree with you that it is greatly overused as a general-purpose lubricant (which it definitely isn't). In some cases, it does have decent properties for freeing up movement as long as the moving thing isn't particularly exposed to outside air and dust, which will stick to the wd-40 over time and gum it up (over months and years). I've heard people say that it's "corrosive". Is it really? I don't think it is to ferrous metals; I've certainly known people (myself included) to de-rust and free up steel tools that have gotten a bit of rust on them. Is it actually reactive with Aluminum? Bare Aluminum, painted Aluminum? I don't know. Do you have a reference for that?

@fsodn thanks. Did not know the history. All I know is that every moving metal part I've used it on, has seized badly. And was a nightmare to unseize. Now I use Fluid Film ... and I swear by it love it .. has never let me down. Cheers

Yes, I completely agree. WD-40, while it sometimes superficially works as a short-term lubricant, often ends up gumming things up and making moving worse in the long term. Yes, there are definitely other real lubricants that do not do this, and that are appropriate to use on aircraft. I think "tri-flow" is generally recommended for Mooney control surface hinges, for instance. I haven't heard of "fluid film" but I have no reason to doubt it. You absolutely should never, ever use WD-40 on a cable in a sheath. It will collect dust, become very sticky, and render the cable unusable.

You didn't say where you and the airplane reside, but in the US, and I imagine any country under ICAO, working on a pump, assembling a pump, installing it, connecting it, are all things that ONLY AN A&P (or equivalent) ARE LEGALLY ALLOWED TO DO. Flaps aren't a primary control, but if they malfunction (if they extend and won't retract, for instance, or if they retract a bunch unexpectedly) that can have fatal consequences. Whoever rebuilt the pump has the legal responsibility to do so correctly and only turn it over to a non-mechanic when it works the way the controls are labelled. If it doesn't work that way, bring it back to whoever did the the work. I don't know what else to tell you.

@@fsodn I got it figured out. the little level that opens the valve to bleed pressure out has a small range of motion where it bleeds out the pressure. I had the cable installed and adjusted so I was on the wrong side of the cam. adjusted cable and lever and all is good. great video By the way I am an A&P and IA plane is located at KLOT Lewis univ airport Romeoville Illinois USA

Ah, excellent. Ok; sorry; I didn't know the context. My apologies; I get lots of questions sounding like non-A&P owners are trying to do something sly in order to not pay a mechanic. Cool; glad it's working now!

Yes. Just like elsewhere on UA-cam, click on "Figuring Stuff Out dot net" under the video, and you'll go to my channel page. That will show you a list videos that UA-cam selects that it thinks you might like from my channel, but click on the "videos" button, and you'll see my entire list. I have lots of videos about recovering my 1972 SuperBeetle (I'm almost to the engine start in 2021, but that won't come out for a few more weeks). I also have videos on aviation and other technologies.

I'm aware of pickle-fork joint separators, yes. As it turns out, I have a later video where I test multiple tools removing the ball joint: ua-cam.com/video/Pk4LcoeePmM/v-deo.html. Feel free to check it out! I tested the fit of a pickle fork separator. It did fit in the joint. I didn't try with it very hard because there was another tool that seemed like it would be more suitable.

You make a very good point, that our analysis concentrated on the nature of the surface and not on the surface area. Yes, quite true. We sort of lumped the bulk material characteristics, the surface characteristics, and the surface area together, when those are separate effects. Yes, to your point about making this a published result, we would want to at address that, and maybe even make sure we try to do experiments with material of roughly equal shape and surface area. I guess the output of that would be to quantify the amount of oil absorbed by a certain amount of bulk material *per surface area*. Yes, if we ever do this again, we'll definitely try to do that. Thanks for the suggestion! Glad you liked the video, and thanks for commenting.

I would presume that real quantitative cooks and/or food labs have done studies like this that are much more systematic and detailed than ours, but thanks very much. So I doubt that just a day's work in our kitchen would be publishable, but it's an interesting thought (we're both academics, although food is neither of our fields). I guess I'll have to do a google scholar search. Glad you liked it!

@@fsodn Yeah, I mean definitely some more rigor and data, but the concept itself is sound in a way I haven't seen really anyone talk about for some reason. I couldn't find very much on Google Scholar either

Wonderful, I'm glad it was useful for you! The Tom Wilson book is an amazing resource, and I'm glad it has the very specific statement of counting the number of studs and bolts, it usually took me a few minutes sitting in front of the case halves to get the inventory put together in the head. I figured other people might have that same problem so I grabbed footage of the case when it was about to go together and made this video as a reference for me and others.

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Interesting. It would be a great resource for other people for you to film it and post it on your channel. I'd love to see that.

@@fsodn We'll see. I was aggravated enough yesterday ahaha.

Thanks for watching! No, I'm not going to give out my email address. I would be happy to have a conversation with you here in the comments, though. That also means that others can benefit from it.

This is a pretty quiet video. You're the only person who's responded to it. If you have questions, please post them here.

I could, I suppose. What I was initially wondering was what's inside the shell. I've answered that question--it's solid high-density foam all the way through. But I suppose I could dissect it farther, yes, by cutting through the foam. I can certainly do that. I have a pretty dense lineup for the next couple of months; I don't think it'll happen before August.

@@fsodn thanx for getting back.. actually I didn't know what a Marker Beacon was and by seeing a dissected antenna I thought it would have given me an idea of the frequency band these things worked on.. so I felt a little disappointed that the actual antenna details didn't get shown; no problem, googled it and all has been revealed! Regards, Vk3OLA

@@lmantuano6986 No problem, thanks for writing! Yeah, I have two older videos on my channel that mention marker beacons. I have a video from a few years ago that has "antenna tour" in the title. I go over all the antennas on my Mooney; the airplane I owned at the time, and it talks about the marker beacon antenna. Then I have one about a year ago that shows marker beacon antennas on two different airplanes (both not mine) that I saw tied down on a ramp at an airport. One of those was the old-style, like 3 feet long, and a much smaller one very much like the one I dissected here.

@@fsodn Ah, thanx again for expanding the subject! Confirmation of my google searches where ILS signals are on 75MHz.. the "old style 3ft long" one you mention matches 1/4 wave length at 75MHz as the full wave length for such frequency is 4 meters..! Next one to figure out is VOR, 108-117MHz (somewhat shorter antennas), but I don't suppose small GA planes are equipped with VOR, or are they? I'm not into flying, so that's why my curiosity, I am into boats thought, where we deal with HF and VHF comms, AIS (also VHF) and EPIRB beacons on UHF (older emergency beacons were on 121/243MHz for both Air and Marine). regards, vk3ola

@@lmantuano6986 Hi, thanks for the questions! I have a few corrects. First, please go look at my antenna tour video: ua-cam.com/video/a-uJzFEu2KU/v-deo.html Several of your questions are answered there as I walk around the Mooney that I used to own, which had a marker beacon antenna and receiver, and VOR/ILS (+ glideslope) antenna and other various antennas. However, as far as the various signals that a pre-GPS plane would use for approaches, here are my understandings of those signals and their antennas. First, there's VOR, which is VHF Omnidirectional Radiobeacon. The signals are two sub-frequencies (one is omnidirectional and pulses, one is constant amplitude that physically rotates) that use phase and amplitude together to allow the receiver to determine what direction from the transmitting station it is. The transmitting band is 108-118 MHz, horizontally polarized. Antennas are "whisker" antennas often on the tail tips of small GA airplanes. The antennas of usually bent forward or backwards so that there isn't a null spot if you happen to be side-on to the signal. For old-school IFR planes, VOR is used for horizontal navigation (range typically 50+ miles from the transmitter, often 80+). Also used for some non-precision approaches. A single VOR will give you a line from a beacon that you're on, but two beacons will give you precise position. VOR has a audio modulated on it., which most of the time sends a morse code identifier that tells the pilot that the beacon is up and valid. There's DME, "Distance Measuring Equipment". Airplane sends a pulse at a certain frequency, ground transceiver returns that pulse, time delay determines distance from the transceiver. Vertically polarized, 500-ish MHz. VOR+DME gives you precise position with a single pair of signals. Range is also out to 50+ miles. DME is used for many pre-GPS approaches. Small vertical blade, or stick and ball antenna on the bottom of the plane. Then there are the signals received by planes specifically for approaches. First there's localizer, which use the same frequency bands as VOR, 108-118 MHz, also horizontally polarized, typically same antenna. Uses two sub-beams for the left and right part of the beam modulated differently so that the receiver can tell very precisely where it is left to right, and presents that as a needle deflection. Also has an audio carrier that has the Morse code identifier on it. There are lots of localizer-only approaches. They're considered non-precision, because no vertical guidance. Localizers are useful out to 10 or 20 miles, but highly directional, transmitted up the glide path that the airplane will be travelling down for the approach. ILS, then, is a localizer beacon (above) on the same runway as a *glideslope* signal. Glideslope signals are roughly in the 500-ish MHz range, and are transmitted horizontally-polarized, highly directional up along the glide path. The glideslope signal frequencies are paired in a hidden way with the localizer signals. You never see the glideslope frequency, you just select the localizer frequency and the glideslope comes along with it if it's there. Through a physics miracle (which was of course known when these systems were designed) the glideslope frequencies can also be received on the same VOR/localizer antenna. So frequently planes will only have one antenna for all three, and then the glideslope signals will be split out by a passive splitter before being passed along to the receiver. Then finally, there's the marker beacons. Marker beacons alert the pilot to certain horizonal positions where they need to change configurations or do certain checks. They are a single frequency, 75 MHz. They're highly directional; straight up from a point on the ground. The airplane only receives them within a half mile or so of a certain position. There's only one frequency, but different audio modulated on the frequency tells the pilot (and receiver) that it's an "outer marker", a "middle marker" or an "inner marker", which are places along the precision approach.

I've heard people say that, yeah. I never had the occasion to try it. As I broke ground, I would let the plane accelerate to 85 mph and then pitch up to hold that speed. That's below Vx, so once I was climbing at 85, I'd raise the gear. At 85 it comes up quickly and easily, and then drop to nose to set Vy (or Vx) with the gear up.

Hi! Thanks for watching, and thanks for commenting. Engagement drives the algorithm. I do make an effort to teach, but I balance that with the effort to make videos that people will actually watch. If I put up a 45 minute video about installing my gas tank, no one would watch it because it would be booooooooooring. The process of editing is a constant compromise between enough detail to be useful but short enough to be entertaining and have flow. I apologize for not striking that balance in a way that you found useful. If you have a section that you'd like more detail on, it's not outside the realm of possibility that I could pull up the footage and publish a more detailed video. Please let me know what you were trying to figure out, and what the time stamp is in this video, and I may try to look that up. I'm not sure what you mean when you say "the fittings when rubbing them on a strip". The silver bands that hold the hoses on the tank fittings are "hose clamps". I was just closing them with a screwdriver. I didn't think that was noteworthy enough to have a closeup of, but perhaps I'll try to do that in a future video. Thanks for watching and commenting, and I hope you continue to watch. I'm planning to have the video where I start the engine up later this spring. It was awesome to do and I think the video will be really cool.

@@fsodn Your explanation about what you need to consider to balance educational aspects with just plain boring overkill very much helped me understand your situation. Thank you. A couple points that lost me, a novice, at 0.52 "the pickup is right there" I suspect it has to do with gasoline but why the term "pickup"? Then a moment later the Outlet hose is pointed out. So, instead, I guessed this is where the gas comes out of the tank. But, then there is a view of the "sock". I assume this is filtering gasoline. But does it also come out here? At 1.40 it appeared to me that the strip of blue stuff on the bench top was being used for some purpose, perhaps to polish the surface of those fitting if it was a fine emory cloth. Maybe the blue strip wasn't part of the act in this scene. I do appreciate the efforts of those teaching / sharing tips in videos.

​@@robertdobbs2283 First the easy answer. At 1:40 or so I'm making gaskets for the sump plug for the tank, and the vent fitting that's going to go in side of the filler pipe. I'm grabbing a cylinder of bulk gasket material, cutting out a rough outline, and then cutting interior circles until the inner hole *just* fits over the center tube of whatever the gasket is supposed to fit over. So I'm not doing anything to the vent fitting or the plug at all; I'm using them as size comparisons as I cut the gaskets to fit them. The blue tape on the bench has nothing to do with the process; it's just painters tape that happened to get stuck down to the work bench.

​@@robertdobbs2283 Second, it took me a bit to dig up the real answer. When I edited this video, I'd forgotten my confusion early on when I owned my Beetle about how the internal piping in the fuel tank works. This would actually be a really good topic for a video, and I may well make that, because I'm sure other people have similar questions. From my non-expert perspective, here's a broad overview of how the tank works. The tank holds liquid gasoline, which flows down by gravity as it's used. Like a swimming pool or a sink, or funnel, the tank is shaped so that as the gas drains, it all flows to one spot at the very bottom of the tank. The low spot where the last of the gasoline ends up (or any dirt or debris in the tank ends up) is the bottom, or the "sump". For the car to be able to get the gasoline out of the tank to the engine, there must be a pipe whose end is right at the sump, so that it can pull the very last gas out of the tank if you're getting low. This is the "pickup tube". This is like having a drinking straw at the very bottom of a soda. You want the straw end to be at the bottom so you can get all the soda out. There's a round plug at the bottom of the sump. The removable plug has two purposes. You can drain out the contents of the tank if you need to. For cleaning/rinsing the tank, the plug allows the water/whatever to flow out. It also gives you access to the end of the pickup tube. The pickup tube is fixed in place; the end that's just inside the round sump plug is at a spot where it can suck basically the very last gas out. The sump plug allows you to replace the copper mesh sock that acts as a filter on the pickup tube. The sock allows gas through to the pickup tube but hopefully doesn't allow dirt or grit through. Unlike some tank designs, the pickup tube ends up going through the side wall of the tank, due to the shape of the Beetle's tank. How that work confused me too. However, I finally figured it out, and I put a sort-of answer in a blog post. But since I figured it out so long ago, I think I forgot that it was a point of confusion and didn't explicitly put it either in this video, or the earlier video in my channel where I removed the tank and was washing it out. You can find the earlier gas tank video on my channel if you want to see it. But here are the posts in my long-neglected blog about working on the gas tank the first time in 2008. Here's the blog post: craigsteffen.net/blog/2009/06/2009_06_08_22_48_00_A.php The important thing here is this diagram: craigsteffen.net/blog/2009/06/old_blogger_photos/tank08.jpg The red rectangle is the sump plug in the bottom of the tank. You can see the black pickup tube where it goes out the tank on the left, but then comes in and its end sits just above the sump plug. The green thing is the copper mesh sock.

​@@robertdobbs2283 Here's another blog post with another partial explanation of where the pickup pipe sits: craigsteffen.net/blog/2009/06/2009_06_29_00_21_00_A.php And in particular, here's a cross section with part of the pickup tube drawn in: craigsteffen.net/blog/2009/06/old_blogger_photos/tank16.jpg I hope that helps. I think I may well make a video about the interior of the tank. I'm sure you're not the only person who has similar questions.

Hi Danny! Yeah, I'm hoping to publish a video very soon where I put some reading-glasses inserts inside some aviation sunglasses. I expect that will be useful flying in sunny weather when I'm *not* under the hood. Good luck with your IFR training! It's really rewarding. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the encouragement. Please feel free to share my videos with your friends, it really does help!

Hmm. Having just skimmed through the Notice again, I agree with you that it's not highlighted as it might (or probably should) be. The airventure Notice, for instance, has a banner on the front cover that says "Flight rules in effect start X time on Y date". The Sun-n-fun doesn't have that. Now, reading the document carefully from a pilot's perspective, here's my take on that. Keep in mind I'm not associated at all with Sun-n-fun. I'm not a flight instructor. I'm just a pilot with a youtube channel. I think you're misreading when things start to close. Runway 05/23 does close on March 29 and remains closed/unoperational for the entirety of the show, used for parking and taxiing and stuff. Also, the grass runway at the south of the airfield closes (as far as the tower and main part of the airport is concerned) also on March 29, but then the south part of the airport becomes Paradise City, which isn't controlled by the tower (other than being closed during the airshows when everything shuts down). I think there are two separate pieces of information in the Notice that separately answer your question. (It would be better to be like the Airventure Notice to have it explicitly on the front cover, but there you go). The front cover shows the date of the *show* itself; the entertainment event. However, the second page is essentially the title page of the official Notice document. It has the dates "April 8-April 14". I would interpret that as saying that's when it's in effect. Two pages later it has the table of airport closures, and the first night it's closed is (I believe) Sunday night (April 7) 7pm to Monday morning 6am April 8. Those two pieces of information would lead me to conclude, from a *planning* perspective, that the schedule would be (again, I'm not an official source, just guessing with the same information you have): KLAL is open through the day Sunday April 7 as a normal day, with normal class D operations in effect. The tower will close 7pm Sunday evening, April 7, and the airspace and runway will be closed (there's not CTAF published that I can tell). Starting 6am Monday morning April 8, the Sun-n-fun arrival procedures will be in effect. (Now, the airspace and VFR approach and runways may be open, but since the Notice specifically prohibits engine operation or taxiing south of the main east/west runways, I'm not sure where you'd be allowed to *go* if you arrive before 7; maybe that's just for traffic that are based at the airport or have an FBO slot.) Those are my thoughts. If I find out more information, I'll post it here.

Oh, that was for *planning* purposes. For *operational* purposes; if you're in the air on your way to Lakeland Sun-n-fun and you want to verify whether they've started to use the Lake Parker arrival (which starts at Fantasy of Flight, NOT Lake Parker itself), then listen to the Sun-n-fun arrival ATIS. The standard ATIS broadcast frequency for the Lakeland airport during the rest of the year is used during Sun-n-fun as the *departure* ATIS. So if you're flying in, tune the Sun-n-fun arrival ATIS. If the Lake Parker/Fantasty of Flight arrival is active, you'll hear instructions and what runway they're using. If you don't hear anything, then tune the Sun-n-fun departure ATIS (also the normal Lakeland ATIS). If you hear standard run of the mill ATIS that includes arrivals and departures, then they're not using the Sun-n-fun procedures. If you hear specific verbiage about Sun-n-fun departures and nothing about arrivals, then you missed something, and the Lake Parker arrival must after all be in effect.

You're welcome, thanks for commenting! I have lots of other videos, please check them out.

So by "fine wire plugs in triplicate", I presume that you mean that the plugs were different? Maybe they had three ground electrodes instead of two or one? Because while aviation engines do have two plugs per cylinder, both for redundancy and efficiency, adding a third would cause a huge amount of redesign to the engines.

@@fsodn Yes sorry I expressed it badly. They had three ground electrodes. There was also an American format where the spark ran over the face of a very broad electrode which I believe had three holes in it. It was supposed to improve take off performance of bomber squadrons which had accidents because of partly warmed engines. I remember reading the description as a Young man but never saw one. On the subject of spark plugs I note that nearly all garden two and four stroke engines are gapped to close and engine performance improves by gapping to 28 - 30 thou.

@@glynluff2595 If you have a very strong ignition source firing the plug, I believe you're right and larger gaps fire better. However, with stock magnetos, you have the keep the plug gap down to what the magneto and reliably fire across, or performance suffers for that reason. In the US, spark plug gaps for piston engines is specified by the manufacturer. I just looked up the chart for Continental engines, SIL 03-2B (my current airplane is a Cessna 150 with a Continental O-200-A engine in it). In that chart, the gap for Champion spark lugs is from .016 to .021 inches. If you swap one of the ignition sources to a hotter spark source, like one of the high-power electronic magneto replacements, I believe the STC allows a much larger gap on those plugs (but of course then you have to be very careful when rotating to keep the conventional magneto and electronic magneto plugs separate).

@@fsodn Ah yes and that is very true for your source. Here you are talking of an air vehicle which has limited liability of recurrence in difficulties. In wartime some repugnance of this is necessary to aid difficulties and in WWII air fuel really managed 100 octane despite suggestions. On land engines the octane was pool which was 68 for lorries and about 72 for standard motor engines. Today we look at 95 and 98 if you wish to pay for less addition to your fuel. The bio addition adds water carrying capacity to the fuel which reacts negatively if kept in fuel tank a long time. Therefore in a land machine it is often worth extending plug gaps a little because the extra heat of flame front will result in better combustion of gases. However, unburnt gas can with lower turbulence provide better burning of the next charge so performance can improve. There is only inconvenience today with land vehicles if there is failure but magnetos along with coil ignitions are as good as the people who set them up. In aircraft one will not vary from manufacture because of the insurance provision.

You're very welcome! I hope it was helpful.

So you own and/or fly a Mooney with hydraulic flaps? And up until this point, they have operated as I show here (select down, pump and stay down, select up, retract slowly)? And now, no matter the selection, you pump the handle and no movement? If I understand your position, if I were in that position, here is what I would do to try to debug: DO NOT FLY THE PLANE (or taxi it). If the flaps are having problems, the brakes might be too, and that can make very a very messy or expensive day. Check the hydraulic fluid reservoir. With the flaps retracted it should be close to full up to the filler opening. If it's way down, you're going to have to find the source of the leak. That's going to take some detective work. Also check the brakes to make sure they've firm. If fluid is low, now you'll need to get a mechanic. They'll have to fix the leak. If there's plenty of fluid but this is still happening, the mechanic will then check to see if the cockpit switch is disconnected from the cable, or if the rod has become disconnected from the flap mechanism. If there's no fluid leaking, and everything is hooked up, then perhaps something has gone wrong inside the pump.

That is an interesting point. The material properties are certainly important. While the material that the pan is made out of, its heat capacity and thermal conductivity matter, thermodynamics tell us that radiative exchange of energy of something with its surroundings is profoundly effected by its color and shininess. So I'm pretty sure the shininess does matter to some degree. Your point is certainly valid as far as the material I showed in the video. The two pans I held up, the dark pan is a stamped steel pan, and the disposable one is Aluminum (I think). I used it because it was easy to find. However, several years ago, when I made the graph of roasting the two turkeys, one with a shiny pan and one dark, they were both steel pans, one was just shiny chromed, and the other was dark non-stick. However, in science, proof is always in the experiment. So to definitively separate out the effect of dark vs. shiny against all of the other possible variables, I would have to get two identical shiny pans at the same time, and then sand one of them and paint it flat black. Then they're for sure going to be the same metal, same thickness, but just with surface differences. And then roast two turkeys of the same weight in them, in the same oven, at the same temperature, and track the temperature. You have raised a perfectly reasonable objection. I'm pretty sure you're wrong, but it's an excellent point that should be ajudicated by experiment. I don't know when I'll get to it, though. I'm not sure I'll have time this December. Maybe in the spring. Be sure to subscribe so that you see the follow-up! Thanks for watching, and thank you for your comment!

@@fsodn I know I am right. I am a baker.

Ha ha! Ok, I'll grant you, my interjection is 100 years out of date of being current slang. But I get so danged tired of people around the holidays saying "I don't like turkey, it's dry" and my only response has to be "I'm sorry you've never had it made by someone who knew what they were doing". Thanks for watching!

Thanks. Hi Jamie! Yeah; I made this abbreviated video because I am always tired around the holidays of people saying "I don't like turkey; it's dry" to which my response is always "I'm very sorry you haven't had it made properly". I'm really going to try to make a full video on the whole process. it's a tricky thing because cooking times are so variable that the only way to properly do it is have the rest of the meal (and the exact mealtime) tied to the turkey being done right. So for that reason, turkey for a group of people larger then 8 or 10, or even more a mass meal, just isn't going to be optimal. Ham (for instance) is much more forgiving and scalable in that regard. Thanks for commenting; good to hear from you.

That's very generous, thank you. Please tell your friends; it really does make a difference!

Thank you very much for watching and commenting. I plan to put up a full video in December on the turkey-roasting recipe, plus stuffing and mashed potatoes that I learned from my mother-in-law. I hope you stick around for that. Please also check out the rest of my channel to see if that's up your alley.

Hey, thanks for watching and for the question. I drove the car a lot in the span of 2008 through 2010. During that time is when the super-shimmy started to show up. I tried fixing it several ways. First I replaced the steering dampener on the steering arm; no change. I did replace the idler arm bushing set with a new solid brass/bronze one. When I did that I had the idler arm housing completely out of the car. I'm pretty sure that when I put it together, all the rotating pieces were clamped together and moved as one. So the shaft, including the upper end with the big triangle piece, the idler arm (that goes on the lower end) and nut that holds it on, all rotate in the housing together. I think it has to, right? Because if it doesn't, the stops on the right side won't keep the tires from hitting the sway bars. Am I understanding that right? If you have something specific you want to see, I'm certainly willing to put the car up on jacks and get under there with a light and a camera and take video and post it to youtube. Let me know more specifically what you want to see. Thanks for watching the video! I hope to get to the videos of running the engine and driving the car before March.

Really? Where do the channel-lock pliers grip the sender? I would love to see that. I found two youtube videos that show the installation of a SuperBeetle sender. One uses a pin punch like I did, the other says "I'm tightening the sender with a channel-lock"...but then it's out of view of the camera. :-( I would love to see this. Do you have a video?

I can make a video if you like. Large mouth channel locks, then place it on the part where you were tapping on. Comes right off.

Hi Akmal! What you're calling "ball joints" are what in the US we call "tie rod ends". As you said, the side tie rods have separate tie rod ends that can be replaced. However, the tie rod ends in the center tie rod are part of the tie rod. They cannot be replaced; the whole tie rod has to be replaced. You can see the very loose tie rod end on my center tie rod at 0:56 in this video. There are two different tie rod ends for the side tie rods. They have a "left hand thread" and a "right hand thread". Replace the center tie rod, or the tie rod ends if they are loose. You'll know there's a problem if it vibrates (shakes) at certain speeds. If it doesn't vibrate, and the tie rod ends are tight, then you don't have to replace them. I replaced all those components because my car would shake very badly from 35 miles per hour to 50 miles per hour. By the way, there are ball joints in the suspension. There is one on each side. The ball joint is at the bottom of the picture at 3:19 in this video. Good luck with your car!

Many thanks you explain me very valuable information so I will follow your steps. I would like to hold your hand to thank you. Best Regards. @@fsodn

I replaced basically all the soft components. I actually also replaced all three tie rods, because the tie rod end in the center rod (which can't be separately replaced) was faulty, and I think that was the major problem in my suspension.

Yeah, understanding what's going to go on before you have the mechanic do the work is a great idea. Let me know how it went, and if there's anything I can do to help!

Hi. Thanks for watching! Check out some of my other videos.

@@fsodn dear I want to do work in your under need your support or blessings I hope you positive reply 👍??

I don't know; I dont' have any real expertise in turbine engines, home-made or otherwise. I suspect, though, that turbine engines have their own ignitors that are different than the spark plugs used in reciprocating piston engines. I'm going to guess that a reciprocating spark plug, aircraft or car, wouldn't hold up very well at the temperatures in a turbine engine combustion chamber. I did a google search on "turbine engine ignitors" that looked like it brought up things that look vaguely like spark plugs, but sounded like they were used as ignitors in turbine engines, so that might be a place for you to start. Thanks for watching the video, and for the question! Feel free to check out other videos on my channel. I just got back into publishing the series on rebuilding the engine in my 1972 Volkswagen a couple of years ago.

@@fsodn thanks for the answer, it’s very nice of you !! I’ll sure check you’re other vids!

Thanks very much! Yeah, this was sort of a random opportunity where the airplane was at annual up on jacks. The annual was finishing up, so I was putting the pilot's seat back in. I realized that on jacks, with the pilot's seat in but the co-pilot's seat still out was an unusual opportunity to shoot this video, so I took the hour to do it.