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robbieray
Приєднався 30 бер 2013
Hello and welcome to the robbieray channel ( a nickname a fellow mechanic gave me ) My name is Rob. I have been a professional mechanic and welder/fabricator for over 25 years. I have worked in various mechanical fields such as: automotive, forklift/heavy equipment and trucks. The purpose of my channel is to help others out with mechanical problems when ever I can. I turn to UA-cam myself for other peoples expertise so I felt it was only right to do the same in return.
02 Hyundai Elantra po133 code from hell (SOLVED) (not an O2 sensor)
Threw the parts cannon at this car😭 Forgot how sensitive this model was to even the slightest exhaust leak. Repaired with high temperature exhaust silicon sealer. Passed emissions 😁😁😁
Переглядів: 77
Відео
09 Civic spongy clutch pedal problem. (SOLVED) We bled this thing every way I know how. Surprise fix
Переглядів 255 місяців тому
This clutch system has All new parts and still wasn't working right. All the bleeding in the world wouldn't have fixed this problem
December 14, 2023 EGO snow blower blown fuses.
Переглядів 1318 місяців тому
Sorry not a complete success story. Ended up taking a chance and jumping out the fuses. It ran a little while then quit again. posted this because there is so little info out there. Hope it may help someone....
01,02,03,04,05,06 Hyundai Elantra heater hoses (correct part numbers)
Переглядів 3,4 тис.2 роки тому
01,02,03,04,05,06 Hyundai Elantra heater hoses (correct part numbers)
92,93,94,95 96,97 F-150 OBS distributor removed/ignition quick test before re-installing
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Quick test before installing a new or rebuilt distributor
Installing a hitch on a 92,93,94,95,96,97 Ford F-150 OBS pick up
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Sorry, Not a complete how to video. Just some good views after installation. The instructions that come with these hitches are terrible and don't show any 3-D views.
Goodman furnace fluttering, pulsing helicopter sound troubleshooting
Переглядів 5 тис.2 роки тому
Checking for a bad heat exchanger
How to remove a seized steel pin using an oxygen lance
Переглядів 4 тис.3 роки тому
This method uses a 1/4” black steel pipe with a ball valve connected directly to a oxygen tank. Start with a slightly long pipe because it is consumed during cutting. This can also be used directly on equipment. Followed by an air hammer or sledgehammer. Be sure to follow safety precautions
92,93,94,95,96,97 Ford F150 distributor gear/pick up coil (PIP) removal and installation of gear
Переглядів 48 тис.3 роки тому
The complete process of replacing the pick up coil in the distributor, including removal and installation of the cam gear. (update) use OEM p/n E9TZ-12A112-A ($50-$60) The aftermarket one lasted less then a year.
01,02,03,04,05,06 Hyundai Elantra code PO456 evap. Very small leak
Переглядів 6 тис.3 роки тому
Testing and repairing your evap. System to pass state inspection
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.17 stretched timing chains bent valves
Переглядів 17 тис.3 роки тому
Some final thoughts on torquing the heads, setting the timing, chain tensioners and front cover seals
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.18 stretched timing chains bent valves
Переглядів 2,1 тис.3 роки тому
Final thoughts on the importance of pre-pressurizing the oil system before starting the engine
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.16 stretched timing chains bent valves
Переглядів 1,4 тис.3 роки тому
Torquing down the heads pt.2
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.15 stretched timing chain’s bent valves
Переглядів 1 тис.3 роки тому
Torquing down the heads pt.1
09,10,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.14 stretched timing chains
Переглядів 6003 роки тому
Checking and preparing head gasket surfaces
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.13 stretched timing chains bent valves
Переглядів 8823 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.13 stretched timing chains bent valves
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.12 stretched timing chains bent valves
Переглядів 1 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.12 stretched timing chains bent valves
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.11 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 7643 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.11 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.10 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 7743 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.10 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.9 stretched timing chains
Переглядів 1,1 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.9 stretched timing chains
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 high feature engine torque specs.
Переглядів 14 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 high feature engine torque specs.
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave stretched timing chain pt.8
Переглядів 4323 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave stretched timing chain pt.8
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.7 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 3,8 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.7 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.6 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 7103 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.6 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.5 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 7763 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.5 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.4 stretched timing chain
Переглядів 7603 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.4 stretched timing chain
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.3 stretched timing chain, bent valves
Переглядів 1,6 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.3 stretched timing chain, bent valves
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.1 stretched timing chain, bent valves
Переглядів 4 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.1 stretched timing chain, bent valves
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.2 stretched timing chain, bent valves
Переглядів 2,4 тис.3 роки тому
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17 GM 3.6 Buick Enclave pt.2 stretched timing chain, bent valves
What a pain that these factory heater cores were much crap. My bother has a 1970 Pontiac Tempest, and the heater core is still fine and operating!
@@brockreynolds870 totally agree
Thanks
@@christiannoriega2699 no problem Christian 😁
Man ive been dealing with this and i can confirm its this pick up coil
Anyway you could email me the book?. I’m doing a timing job, and could use this. My name is Jaden. My email is crenshawjaden01@gmail.com
T in a vacuum gauge and see if getting too much or too little vacuum.
Excellent video. The gear install is what I needed to see. I watched a few press it on and figured there had to be a better way.
Glad it helped you out. Iv'e done it many times this way with no problems. Just be careful not to overheat the gear. Good luck with your repair. Rob...
@@robbieraychannel did you use your original gear? I am not sure if mine is steel or not, and am thinking of just reusing it, I don't see any unusual wear to it
Thanks for the video, very helpful
@@kevinilg2657 your welcome 😁
Thanks from France. Same problem on Ford Transit 2.0 DOHC
Glad it helped you out.😀
Question is it worth doing this or better to just connectthe hose together to by passe it
True, You can get away with it in the summer, But once you need defrost that will be a problem.
awesome video, i appreciate the thoughts. So i’m having a high idle/ poor idle experience which is leading me to a vacuum leak. After testing the solenoid and egr valve sensor, i discovered that the green egr vacuum line has constant vacuum, i assume that’s no good ??? Any thoughts would help
Spn1347 fmi 7 что за ошибка ?
BUILT IN OBSOLESCENCE: Produces built to break. And money snakes take. Oh; looks like someone mentioned metal epoxy as a solution already. Nice video. Thanks for info. HAGO.
No problem. If the epoxy doesn't work try the rear a/c block off plates that I listed on the video summery. good luck with your repair Rob....
Awesome video! Thanks!
@@davidthomson1613 no problem I'm glad it helped you out...
You can fix it with aluminum epoxy for a/c lines. I got it from Amazon. It worked great, just like new didn't have to remove the hose cleaned it good roughed up the tube applied the epoxy let set for 24 hrs evacuated the system recharged works great.
Very helpful, showing us the diode explains shorting if powered with reverse polarity. Showed no clicking if powered right which had me buying several, showed us it is open when off etc. These are buggers! One point you did not mention, the vehicle will not send signal to solenoid until it is up to running temperature!
Good point about the operating temperature delay. Thanks for posting
One thing i want to touch upon is that you didnt verify alignment of the gear placement as the gear has an odd amount of teeth and by reinstalling the gear 180* off you change when the injectors spray into each cylinder by 12* and cant be corrected by twisting the distributor due to the fact that the small vane in the reluctor is specifically timed for the true 10* BTDC which is exactly when the injector needs to spray in relation to the valve.. I use a dollar store single burner to heat the gears up.........Your distributor has the steel gear because your engine has a roller camshaft.....The way to tell is whether you have the TFI module on the distributor or the one on the fender...The one on the fender is a roller cam engine..
Huh! Interesting info. I'll take a closer look next time I do one. Funny because I have done several of these throughout my career and never had a timing problem before. Could it be possible that I got lucky every time. I guess anything is possible.....I like the burner idea, less chance of overheating......
After removing the hold down clips, I remove the shoes and springs together. First I release the lower shoes from the brake anchor, then I remove the top of the shoes from the wheel cylinder, then release the parking brake cable. When reinstalling, I use a small pair of needle nose vise grips to hold back the parking brake cable, then go from there.
Good to know, Thank's for commenting
I remove the 2 clips, and then remove the springs and shoes as one unit...once you release the parking brake cable. Reassemble everything before reinstalling new brake shoes. I use small needle nose vice grips to hold back spring for parking brake cable
coool bro .....
Can a pip sensor cause bad rough misfire?
CJ usually when the PIP sensor fails it fails suddenly and completely, but of course it is possible to be your problem. I would definitely rule out all of the simple things first such as plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and even vacuum leaks there is also an ignition module that is easier to change out than the PIP sensor. Sounds crazy but these engines are so known for ignition problems that I keep a spare distributor with a new pip sensor in it and a spare ignition module on hand at all times LOL. You can get an aftermarket duralast distributor for about 100 bucks. Just be sure that the distributor gear is exactly the same as your distributor was or you could damage the gear on your camshaft. Good luck with it. Rob.....
@@robbieraychannel ok. Can a pip sensor still be bad and truck still starts and run?
@@hendricks177 yes they can the usual symptom for them is once the heat up they fail and the truck won't run but then it will restart when it cools down. One thing I forgot to mention. You could have a stuck open EGR valve. That will make the engine run like absolute crap at idle.
@@robbieraychannel I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 and it's running rough misfire bad. Likes it struggling for air or fuel or something. Everything i put on it is new. MAP sensor. Purge valve. EGR sensor. TPS. Spark plugs. Spark plug wires. Distributor cap and rotor. Idle air control valve. Fuel injectors. Air filter. Ignition coil. ICM. Fuel pressure regulator. And still running crappy. Not run smoothly.
@@hendricks177 wow I see your problem. looks like you had to throw the house at this thing. Keep in mind that the EGR valve is not the same as the EGR sensor. The valve on older trucks looks a little bit like a flying saucer. Some of the old ones have a gap underneath that you can stick your fingers up under there and push up on the diaphragm. in a working system this should make it run like crap when you do that. But of course it could already be stuck. Another thing I forgot to mention. Not sure if yours has a catalytic converter. But I have seen before on vehicles where someone tried everything else. And it ended up that the cat. came apart inside and clogged the exhaust system. One of the symptoms for this is you will actually hear a hissing sound if you pay close attention. And It will also run badly and have no power. One easy way to check this is to take the O2 sensor out of the hole which will relieve some of the pressure. The one before the cat if it has it. If it runs better like that it is likely plugged.
I need to go digging
What I do on my deere plugs like this is take needle nose plecktrons and twist the male tabs (here they are inside the solenoid valve) just enough that I can still plug it back in - BUT it now makes positive contact. I have done this many times.
I like that idea. So the metal terminals will drag upon each other when plugged in. Could be used on many different plugs. Thanks for posting. Rob.....
Robbie, let me give you a heads up. My 2010 Equinox 3.0L V6 was throwing P0018 and P0019 and P0340 and P0365 stored codes. I changed the four cam position sensors and the four solenoids, and all six of the spark plugs and coils. Still was throwing all sorts of pending codes and had no power; top speed was like 45 mph. My uneducated (engineer’s) guess was timing chains, so I called up my machinist/engine builder and asked if he’d do them…the sprockets, tensioners, guides, etc…everything new on the front of the engine. He was sure I had bent valves and said he’d do a leak down to start. Sure enough, the chain had slipped off the sprocket on Bank 1, but all the cylinders on Bank 1 passed leak down. That didn’t surprise me, as P0018 and P0019 are related to Bank 2. Luckily, all the valves were closed when the chain came off the sprocket AND the engine didn’t hydrolock when it kept dumping fuel into the right hand cylinders. So…the Bank 2 cylinders showed one cylinder failed leak down; the engine had compression on only two cylinders, explaining the no power condition. He calls me up and says I have bent valves on one cylinder, but as long as the engine is out of the car, he’s going to pull the heads and and inspect all the valves and pistons and make a final decision if the oil pan has to come off. Final diagnosis…NONE of the valves were bent and NONE of the pistons were touched! The carbon build up was so severe, it kept the one cylinder’s intake valves from seating properly. He’s doing a valve job on both heads, replacing stem seals and cleaning the tops of all six pistons prior to installing the new timing chains, guides, tensioners, sprockets, water pump, seals, etc., and stuffing the engine back in the car. All said and done, about $1,700 in parts (all GM) and $2,300 labor, for a total of $4,000. Not bad, for basically a new engine…sans piston rings and main bearings…given the original owner had sent it to the dismantler after getting the $8,000 estimate from the “stealership”.
Thanks for the info. I hope it all works out good for ya !!!
Robbie...an update. Spoke to the original owner of my Equinox who told me she sent the car to the scrap yard because of the ridiculously high repair estimate given by the Chevy dealer. Off to the dealer I went. I asked him what they had determined was wrong with the car. He told me they had changed a bunch of sensors because of stored codes. Then he tells me he had given an estimate for work she had declined. This was for two catalytic converters, which in California can only be replaced with CARB certified units...for $4,000. I asked him what made him think the cats were bad...to which he said again codes for catalytic converter inefficiency. I told him the timing chain had come off the Bank 1 sprocket and the valves were all shut (with DI, this dumps all the fuel into the combustion chamber with nowhere to go) and the middle cylinder on Bank 2 had leaking valves due to carbon build up. Basically, the catalytic converters and O² sensors were being flooded with raw gas, causing the DTCs. So this incompetent dealer was going to charge $4,500 to replace two catalytic converters and four O² sensors and fix NOTHING!!! They had been...and continued to want to throw...the previous owner's hard earned money at symptoms rather the the cause of the DTCs. Incompetent idiots.
Great video
Thanks
Great video, thank you!
Your welcome John.......
I'm
Great video. I'm getting ready to change the PIP in my 460 distributor and this video will help a lot with doing that. I was surprised to see that there wasn't any type of bearing in the bottom of the housing, just a seal. And thanks for showing the p/n of the seal and what would fit to replace it.
I'm hoping the video helps you out when you do your's. Keep in mind there are some bronze bushings inside of the distributor housing, so put some grease on them and the shaft when you reassemble. Good luck with your rebuild. Rob....
@@robbieraychannel Will do, thanks.
Need a copy of trouble codes
Good job!!! Can I just blow air through tho with my mouth? And then run test leads to the battery with it disconnected and see if it opens?
That might work but honestly I never tried it that way for this style valve. I do it that way all the time with common evap purge valves, Or canister close valves. This valve doesn't seem to have a real definitive on/off flow to it. You might want to also pull that cap off of the top of it, energize it and see if that little metal Tower sticking up becomes magnetized.
Thanks for the video, it really helped. I put the emergency brake cable on first, then installed the shoes. Your video help greatly with matching up. I have the manual. It shows that spring being from front to back. I like your thinking that it needs to apply rearward force on the mechanism, so I put it on your way, but also installed the top where I could create a little more twist for more backward force, if that makes sense. My car, so I will pay attention to any issues from this point. For those that are unsure about the shoes, do not buy online unless they give measurements. You want the shoes for the 9inch drum. The shoes online seem to be for the emergency brake shoes for the rear caliper type brakes, not drum brakes. Those have a small, internal drum for the emergency brake, and the shoes are significantly smaller.
Your welcome, Glad it helped you out😀
You can buy a whole distributor complete for less than $80
Yes you can but there is some concern with the drive gear matching the gear on your camshaft perfectly. There is even three different gears that were used on those engines. That's why sometimes it's a safer bet to use your existing distributor
@@robbieraychannel.... Well, my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck has a severe "Squeak " coming from the Distro...A commenter on another UA-cam video said it could be the bearing...I used a Harbor freight Stethoscope and sho' nuff its squeaking like a flock of baby birds...My question is...How do you change the bearing out...???... What tools and what part # for the bearing...???... Thanks in advance, sir...😊😊😊
My code is still coding bruh 😂
LOL I know don't worry we'll get it fixed 😃
@@robbieraychannellol😂😂
One very important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
That's a good tip!
Thanks a bunch for sharing Robbie. My EGR system has been throwing me for a loop and I'm glad I stumbled on this video. Helped explain how it all works. Tested the resistance and the vacuum flowing to my EGR and got nothing on both so gotta buy a new solenoid now. Hopefully that fixes it.
You're welcome I'm glad it helped you out
It shouldn't matter every car has two heater core hoses going through the firewall and into the cab (behind the dash) into the heater core (Looks like a small radiator) One hose is hot water going into the core and the other is hot water going out and back to the engine. When you take the hoses off and install a pipe your just creating a loop of water flow just like the heater core did. So the water pump type doesn't matter....
It’s a 4.7 motor 2002 dodge Durango but it’s dodge n Mercedes
What happens if there’s a auxiliary water pump
Your welcome Joey I hope the info. helped you out
✅
Thanks for all your information Keep up all your efforts
Great video. As far as the bolts coming loose, I’ve always been told to make sure it torqued to the spec before you do your degree. So in those case, do all 22ftlbs then do 150 degrees on #1 bolt. Go to the second bolt and redo the 22ftlbs torque sequence and just keep doing that after the 150 degrees. I don’t like the torque to yield for this reason right here.
Yeah that could be a good strategy. It seems the engineers are trying to achieve the most even clamping force possible on the whole head gasket. But as I said, Iv'e seen books for other engines use a three step process where the bolts get a bit tighter with each sequence pass. It just seems like a better idea to me....Thanks for posting.......
I think that’s a huge step up and should be a three step
Your got it og I have same truck ford big balls wires relays you need added protection wires they us old trucks heavier Guage fry those baby chit😮
👍😁
I jumped across the starter with the timing cover off and watched it pump up. It made a mess but I got to see everything pump up! You could probably just leave the plugs out and unplug the fuel pump. And crank it for awhile!
True I would be more confident seeing everything pump up with oil first.....
Robbieray. I recently replaced the circuit board from Parts Warehouse, After I installed the board, I tested, and had the lights. The moment I hit the start button, and pulled the bale bar, the until quit. I pulled the circuit board and sure enough, both fuses blew again. The board was $100 with shipping, so I was hoping to find an "outboard" fuse solution.
Sorry to hear the board burnt out again Greg. My attempts to solder remote fuse wires to the board failed, They kept breaking off. Usually wire that big would go into a through hole in the board then be soldered. Maybe you could drill some small holes for that, But can't be sure if there's any components underneath. I ended up getting frustrated and jumped them out. Bad idea it never worked again. My cousin got it for free so no big loss it was worth a try. Let me know if you figure anything out... Rob.........
Hi Robbieray. I feel determined to figure this out. I got this snow thrower for free, so getting the machine going for $100 was reasonable. Yeah, jumping it out seems logical, but I can also envision the smoke rolling out 😄. I now have two bad circuit boards. I'm just surprised there is not more about this online. Fortunately, I have my 8hp Ariens that I've had for 35 years and it runs great. I was going to use the EGO for my deck. There has to be a reason the fuse blows immediately, and I'll take a deeper dive before the blower hits the scrap pile. I just wanted to contribute to this issue. Thank you for writing back. Greg
@@gregbarber8258 LOL, I have a Arien's gas powered also. Good luck with the EGO unit. Rob.............
@@robbieraychannel Tnx Rob. There is something more serious going on here. The moment I pressed the switch, the fuse opened. The auger never even tried to start. I’m retired with some time to tinker, but I can’t find a schematic diagram for this unit. If you come across one, please ,eat me know. Greg
Great video! Helped me out
why did that make me laugh so hard
Hi again RobbieRay, Another question. When you lapped out the off centered valve seat in the head; did you have “too wide” of a seating area? Thanks Eric @GrampasGarage2795
Eric, On the heads I would go the 22 ft. lbs. in sequence on all of them. Then 75 degrees with an angle meter on all in sequence. Then a final 75 degrees on all in sequence for a total of 150 degrees. Be sure to mark each bolt at 12:00 after the 22 ft. lb.pass. So when you do the degree part and if something happens like a socket slipping off you"ll know where that bolt is compared to the rest. As far as the valve seat go's It would be unlikely to make the seat to wide using just lapping compound. The bigger concern is the valve not closing completely especially exhaust valves, Because they can burn and even crack in a spot where the exhaust gasses are leaking by. Good luck with it!!!!! Rob...... p.s. What I show in the video is exactly whats in the GM manual for the head bolts for some reason I didn't film those pages. I just don't agree with them taking one large step in bolt tension like that. Most engines are at least a three step process.
Hi RobbiRay, very well done videos with a lot of good procedures explained. Thank you! I am currently doing the same job on a 2007 GMC Acadia with 3.6. I have a question on head bolt torquing; should I go around numerous times at the initial ftlb torque to ensure no more head gasket compression; before I do the 150 degree final? Thanks Eric @GrampasGarage2795
Eric sorry I just read your question again and didn't realize exactly what you were asking yes I would go around at the 22 foot pounds as many times as it took to make sure they were all at 22 foot pounds before proceeding to the angle degree setting
Thank you.
What is the best system for an old car,Mercury grand marquis 2000? Where can i get the wiring diagrams? Thanks and happy new year
Sorry not sure about that one. But you can try to see if your circuits like ignition, heater fan etc. run through factory relays. If they do any one of these smaller units should be fine. The problem I had was the circuits where direct and the little relays inside the unit couldn't handle the load that was placed on them. That's why I used the small internal relays to trigger large true 30 amp relays that I supplied. It's hard to explain unless you fully understand how relays work. ie. A small current controlling a larger current. Like starting your engine. The key switch triggers a relay that triggers a larger relay (the starter solenoid) for example... Hope this helps Happy new year!!!!!!