Відео

i have since put a wiseco piston in the saw, and switched to a Neotec Pro filter. and it pulls a 36" bar. its nuts

@ well done👍👍👍👍

Getting there I think

@ that’s great

www.oregonproducts.com/en_ca/chain-tension check step 6...

in fact read over the whole thing.

@bradwolfgang1037 Absolutely. Thanks I appreciate it. I changed it to 25" forward. And as panels have been removed it's completely changed, so some sort of adjustment there would be a good idea for sure. And I also gusseted up the stands for some added strength. I've been looking for some decent T-handled push ball lock style pins for the indexed positions.

@@rockyroads-p2m too many fine particles escape the stock filter and enter the bottom end. This is much better at trapping these debris, and it's cleanable. . . If you're going to talk shit on a 2 year old video at least have your own content to back it up

Go in the video. 9:56 I explain why a pre filter is important.

Thought I explained it pretty simply.

@@TharangaDarshana-m9r I don't know email them. I'm not affiliated

@@nkurikiyimanajeanclaude3881 hi, thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. Unfortunately I'm not the Google search bar. The machine is called PM14 made by Norwood.

go on the website, order and pay, then have it shipped to Brazil

@@katsmith1994 the answer is in the first part of the question. It's set up. Before you cut an inch you have to set up the mill on a flat surface, garage floor is decent enough, and then mount the saw to the mill, there are 3 set screws with nuts on them. Use them to square the bar over your bunks. It's easier to do without the chain on the bar. Once you are set you likely will not have to adjust. I did it once and I cut square for the entirety of my milling. When I get back to it I'm going to build tracks a ramp and a hand winch on a leveling base. Should be pretty slick.

@@katsmith1994 I measured about 1000 times. You have to adjust the set screws under the mounting plate. I made sure to set up on a flat surface, and squared the bar over the bunk before I ever cut a board. Worked perfect. Hopefully that is helpful for you

The hoods where the same 60-61, 62-66. X frame 60-62, ladder style frame 63-66 The A pillar changed 1964

Thanks man, very much appreciated. It's harder than it looks lol I easily get bogged down in the filming and editing crap.

I hear you. We are from the same community. Your buddy Shawn told me about you

I posted a video of Shawn’s friend Eddie last night. 47 Knucklehead and his 59 Apache. Not sure if you know Eddie but it would be greatly appreciated if you checked it out

@@kstar9331 I know Eddie yup. I've shared a couple drinks with the ol' boy. I checked out the video, very cool 👍

I should have bought the tracks. I have a welder now, I plan on getting some and building a winch and ramps.

Comes down to money. I would have liked to for sure.

@@GarageBuiltRoss ..As everything does. I'm about to install a 4.6 I rebuilt for mine with my fingers crossed. Block pressure tested good so I didn't go flanged liners, new stock cam and lifters. So much could go wrong bc I wasn't willing to sink more money into it. If I had the $/time I'd go LS swap anyway..

@@wjsj69 I guess I should finish Part 2. Still have running issues. Sending the ECU to Tornado

I used adjustable push rods to set lifter pre load

this isnt an amazon review page bro. but thanks thanks for the views.

Thank-you. It's gotten better since. I've been lazy with the editing.

i havent had any problems.

I did end up using the Husqvarna dogs. This video was from 2 years ago.

@@GarageBuiltRoss the ones that came with the wrap kit? I seen you said for outer you used the 560xp dog which is a saw only sold overseas.

@@coreysmith7621 yah that's correct, I forgot I used the the 560 outer. the clutch cover is different from the 562, the wrap works but the dogs don't. The 560xp dogs work perfect for the 555 because they are both small mount. I think I ordered the 560 stuff from Walker saw shop. I'm sure any Husqvarna dealership can get them.

if the video is in english the likelyhood that i read Arabic is slim. thanks for the view tho.

norwoodsawmills.com/en-ca/products/portamill-pm14-chainsaw-sawmill?variant=45330464571713

im not sure what you mean. if you are refering to my work lamp, its just a adjustable work lamp for a desk, i took the shroud off and used one of those LED pedal lights that work in a regular bulb socket. its pretty bright. thanks for watching

I'm not a chemist, you could try. I just took a recipe from a few different videos I found, everyone used acetone and acetic acid and heat. If the plastic floats it won't take dye no matter what

the stuff i used worked really well.

if you start with white plastic I believe you can do whatever color you'd like.

@@GarageBuiltRoss Starts with Stihl orange

@@Robin_Polarstern to be honest, I don't know. I don't think going to a lighter color or straight up different color will work. But I don't know for sure. I've only done black. I've seen white plastic dyed different colors but not one color to a different color.

Im not sure, I didn't have an aluminum one to weigh it against. but if its lighter then the "rotating mass" rule applies. less mass equals quicker acceleration more free hp. thanks for watching!

Unfortunately my plans fell through. I was looking at getting some cranks made maybe some wiseco pistons for the 562/572. I sent some cranks down to a manufacturer and then never heard from them wouldn't return my calls or emails. and was out the money for the cranks. 💁‍♂️ another L. I have a few more ideas but will likely take a long time to develop

Where's your videos mate? You run a loose chain? It's a brand new chain for 1 and it did stretch right away (just like they always do), then tightened again it was good for all the milling I did. If you run it loose you're more likely to throw the chain. Godspeed

no its too tall for the slant back cover

You didn't miss it. I didn't film it. Torque converter bolts are accessable via front passenger side under the starter. Theres kind of a tunnel along the side of the pan. The transmission bolts are a major Pain. The top ones I used a 12 point torque adapter offset. And 3/9 o'clock bolts I used a long extension and a deep 13mm socket on a swivel from under the car. The rest are fairly easy to get to. I counted 14 in total. Which is hilarious and overkill. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned. Block and crank is out for machine, parts are shipping out 👍

I guess I didn't explain the torque converter bolts, throught the port I described I turned the motor via the balancer bolt to line up the bolts with the access hole. 4 bolts. Easy peasy lemon squeez-e

why?

try it for yourself and let me know. color penetration was faster with the acetic acid. and I found it all temperature sensitive. having to get the plastic hot enough. don't expect any more than surface penetration, that's why I followed it up with a ceramic clear. that helped give it a shine and some surface protection. cheers thanks for watching

sorry I don't speak read or write Español. the only thing I understood was "hola"

I got mine on sale, $1,000.00 US plus shipping and taxes. That's considerably less than the band saw mills.

sorry for the late reply. its not a super detailed video, but should give people the broad strokes. I'm running a 24", the guard doest fit with that length bar and is more than needed, I would suggest a 20" max. thanks for watching. cheers!

They say 20', but you can go bigger which is why I bought it. Beyond 20' the guard will not fit and they said it can void the warranty but it's decent construction and the bar length won't add much weight. If you do rip logs beyond 22' or so, the dogs will not work. You basically need to lay the track next to the log but a large log should say in place and once it's smaller you can move it to the dogs - quarter sawing is a great option here. All being said, assembly sucks. Instructions are awful. Parts not labeled. The guide is almost useless and very inconsistent - picture orientation and parts don't match well. I was also missing parts but Norwood sent them. I feel like this product was better at one time. For example, in the assembly book I have, the wheels appear to be metal. Mine are plastic. It's expensive for what it is as it's basically an Alaskan sawmill on a track but it's far less work and the cuts are much better due to the stability. Much easier adjustment too.

everything is unpaid.

Naturally aspirated

hopefully you like it, its good but needs a more stable platform than this fibreglass ladder I have

@Where's Wadlow planning on it. I have a few solid ideas.

its a bit of a pita. but not impossible. you don't want to be taking it off and putting it back on several times a day.

If you're using this for remote work it's best to setup and do a lot at once. If you expect to need a free chainsaw it's best to bring another with a standard vs. ripping chain. Once you get going, it moves fast. Good upgrade over the Alaskan mill which has it's place, but the track is a game changer - my back thanks me and the cuts and much more uniform and faster.