Відео

No just the secondary battery is charging

@@emil.honganmaki5461 I agree

Coils work best at anywhere from. 4 to 1ohm of impedance doesn't matter wire size or turns when it comes to only driving the rotor. If you're trying to get a generator effect out of the same Coils then I recommend thinner wire with more turns. Be sure the magnets can fit inside the inside of the coil diameter. As for rotors mild steel is best. I've used pulleys and old dc motor rotors by attaching magnets to them. It's important to use mild steel or iron because it concentrates both poles of the magnets to the outside of the rotor instead of wasting half the magnet pole

Ok thanks for answering. I've been using an air coil for the trigger as it switches faster and also helps lower the duty cycle of the switching, depending on coil set up. I've been able to get as low as 17% with adjustment. Your results with your trigger circuits are impressive, but i'm still trying to keep things as simple as possible. I'm still using non magneticly retentive relay cores in the drive coils but will give air cores a go too. Do you only use air coils for drive and genetator now? Cheers! :)

Yes sir

That should work fine. Usually the cap has to completely drain to the battery voltage before the scr will unlatch with this type of cap dump circuit which isn't ideal

@@windpowerandmore6310 mm! I heard about latching, so is there things we can do to stop it latching ? Im gursssimg it works okay most of the time ?

@tvdylan you can't stop ithe scr from latching it won't unlatch till the voltage of the cap is the same as the battery voltage so if you're using a large cap it won't unlatch till the voltage equalizes Only way around it is to build the mosfet dump circuit

@@windpowerandmore6310 mm! Well ill have a go with the scr and observ how it works. Got some in the post. Have you done the mosfet dump ? Ive seen a guy using a mosfet with a halogen light dump circuit kinda thing. And i did download the bedini comparitor schematic. Might build that one day! Alot more complex tho.

@tvdylan if you watch my videos you will see that's what I use and even posted the schematic of the circuit and give throughout details about how to tune it

Anything is possible!

Yup definitely!

5 k

@@windpowerandmore6310 thanks!

@@windpowerandmore6310 so i can adjust the charge time of the cap with the pot yeah ? Im gonna make it soon !

Yeah you can it will raise or lower the voltage at which it will dump at... always start with the pot turned so it has the least resistance and turn up once the circuit is on or else you will burn the pot out if the voltage is high then try turning it down

Also use a zener that's very close to the voltage that you will be triggering the scr at

Thank you! Thanks for watching

Thanks Buddy!

Have you heard of Weigand Wire or Weigand Effect? It's a special wire made from Vicalloy material that generates an self inducing high voltage every time whether a magnet or an iron cores magnetic field reverses its north and south polarity. Sounds very interesting and probably a good candidate if you made a bifilar copper/vicalloy coil to generate more back spike out of the pulse motor setup without paying for energy.

No I haven't sounds interesting I'd like to know more

​@@windpowerandmore6310There's lots of information online about its energy scavenging capabilities in spite of it being a scarce uncommon material. I'm thinking of buying a 20kg spool to try it out. There's one supplier in china 'ive found called "Xunshi". that makes it and ships it within 3 months costing around $600 aud. Im going to dedicate some savings to buy. Might be a winning ticket, who knows as it hasn't been tried before and makes sense logically to put two n two together :)

It has something to do with the high coercivity property of a soft core around the outer shell of the wire which enables to flips its magnetic field domains much more efficiently than most ferrite metals. When you get a chance, do some further research. it keeps getting better and better on what this weigand effect can do

Anytime! Thanks for watching

Sure

@@windpowerandmore6310 may I know your contact?

All this info coming from a person who doesn't know what a pnp or npn is

@@windpowerandmore6310 hauuuuhh???? I know what they are, and they are NOT a mosfet, ....what are you saying???? fiy I am a retired electronics design engineer, I do know what I am talking about most of the time :)

Okay so what do you in your mind call a p channel and n channel mosfet?

Yes you're right they require proper cooling of course I'm only referring to the specific ssr featured in this video

@@windpowerandmore6310 UA-cam randomly suggested your video. I was hoping you were fixing the TRIAC type. My application was to use an SSR for a minisplit, to cycle power with a timer. The local power company adopted a KWHr price per time of day. From 4pm to 10pm, it's over $.16, and that's only going to get crazy in the future. No clue where all the green energy for charging vehicles is going to come from. At any rate, I shut the AC/HP down during that time. Some thermostats support time off on a clock. Not this unit, and it requires a custom thermostat, just two wires with DC and diplexed digital on top of that. So to fix that, use an external timer that 'unplugs' the power with a relay. This is a 42KBTU, with 50amp requirement, and reading up on the SSRs, found they need water cooling at that current. Gee's who's going to add that complexity to a relay? Not me! The FOTEK branded SSRs from eBay are mostly counterfeit from China, and need a 50% derating. I did burn one up, 40amp. It was running a 3KW radiant heater in the shop. I have them as dual, as well a mechanical thermostat in series as a high-limit as I don't need a shop fire.

@@f.hababorbitz it's really unfortunate with all the counterfeit components these days

Well the real components are also made in China. Probably at the same factory as the fake.

I agree and thank you!

Awesome and thanks!

Lmao

I know all that and I agree with you. You'll also see in the video I said I wouldn't put 100amps through it even with the real 100a fet . I also trigger with 12v minimum

They don't pop after that monster fet is installed that you recommended I use lol

Thanks for watching!

No sorry bud I'd have to have it on the bench hooked to the charge controller to figure that out

No I'm just showing the most basic setup no modifications at all

Anytime! Thanks for watching!

The meters are on the input and on the output not just on the output they will both have the same average

That's forsure lol

The transformer is on the positive leg

Anytime!

Anytime! Thanks for watching

Yes bud it can be upscaled I actually have a device that puts out 1200w of continuous heat energy that I've never fully showed here on UA-cam but it's been thoroughly tested for a couple years straight without shutting off once I might decide one day to show it in action but it's a incredibly complicated solid state device not to mention its a incredibly dangerous device too. The only moving parts that it has is its cooling fans .

Your work is rewarding to watch also bud

Anytime and thanks for watching!

You're right... you would have to balance the bank at a low current and just enough to hold the bank about .2 of a volt above the 2.7v per cap so 2.9v per cap until each cap is equal. After that they should be balanced but whether they will stay balanced with the high current levels I'm not sure I'd like to know and maybe I'll do some testing because that's a really good question I'd like to know also

lmao you think I didnt read the manual

The regulator is in the drawing and the capacitors you're talking about aren't necessary

@@windpowerandmore6310 Read the data sheet for the regulator, admittedly manufacturers differ in capacitor value, but they recommend more than one, and to position them as close to the regulator pins as possible. A 33uF is okay, but only up to a certain frequency, to bypass at higher frequencies you need a polyester cap that is better at the higher frequencies. Same reason a 0.1uF on pin 5 of the LM555 to gnd. Have you got the gnd of the regulator connected to the gnd/neg power pin of the LM555? WIthout it you will not have a stable 12V supply for the LM555. Have you measured it.

Yes you're right about the ground I drew that up quickly as I'm extremely busy and exhausted thank you for catching that I'll pin this comment and I'll update the drawing asap it needs to be connected absolutely

The two CAP's on the linear regulator ARE necessary...or it will tend to oscillate like crazy!

@@dalenassar9152 it does not