Відео

I plan on purchasing that 20" xr flex volt dewalt saw, if I make any alterations & find good results I'll let you know. (I will most likely down grade the bar size to at least 18" regardless as most of our common native trees are some of the densest/hardest hardwoods in the world. Annoyingly as an arborist)

I have the 16 inch DeWalt 60v dccs 670. Can you give me the link for the powersharp diamond chain and bar kit for 18 inches or 16, not picky honestly

I think it was around $15k at the time. It’s been working great. The only modification I’ve made to it is adding a way to put some tension on the bar. It helps to keep it cutting straighter.

No, I haven't tried that. I really don't like flimsy thin kerf bars unless they're like 12" or less. You might get a little bit better battery life, but I doubt it would be substantial. I would invest in larger batteries before I'd go to thin kerf. I you do try it, let me know how you make out.

It has the same mount, so it should. I haven't tried it though.

Yes, as long as you have the right length bar/chain.

Here's a video that I did that covers the different bar and chain options. ua-cam.com/video/tJgyd1YIVb8/v-deo.html

Oregon 39272 180SDEA041 T62

What Oregon bar did you use? I wasn't able to find any standard 3/8 bar from Oregon that was longer than 16" and had the right mount. Did you modify the drive sprocket, or do you just let it bind? I love my 500i. It's an amazing saw.

I been trying to find a 20 inch bar but all are 72 link drive Adk if that’s a big factor

I'm not sure what you're asking. A longer bar is going to require a longer chain which means more drive links.

Man, what a review! Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.

Yeah, it's a really poor design. The new sprocket won't fit the old design unfortunately.

You’re on the right track. I do DeWALT warranty work, and every chainsaw with that single washer leaves my shop with two washers. And a new sprocket if it’s rounded over on the outer edge.

I needed to have a minimum 36" throat on the mill to be able to quarter large logs. To build a bandsaw that could do that, I would probably be looking at 42" wheels. That would put my bands at 32'+, and my mill at 15'+ wide. A band mill this size would cost probably 4x or more as much as my chainsaw mill, and I'd have to make a much larger building. I've worked with guys that have band mills, and the blade has a tendency to dive in the middle of the cut, which on walnut could cost a $1000 or more. The bands are particularly unstable when you are cutting really wide logs with knots and crotches, or if you hit any steel. I've cut straight through the eye of a 3/8" eye bolt with my chainsaw mill, and had ended up with a perfectly flat board. The only downside to the chainsaw mill is speed and kerf size. I don't really adjust the tension but I pull the chain off to sharpen it, so it gets adjusted every time I sharpen.

While searching for comparison I hit "new" dewalt DCMCS575 review .. looks like upgraded DCCS575 , BUT has nuts instead of toolless + is in 18"/20" | 45/50cm versions only. More over it, according to add materials, supposed to have 3/8" - 1.3mm/0.050" chain and bar. Not sure if it's till that flimsy as old one. Will check.

I think you're looking at the dccs670. The dccs670 is tooless, but the dccs677 is not. It's not vendor locked. It uses the same bar mount as many other manufacturers and any 3/8lp chain will fit it with the correct number of links. It's just difficult to find longer bars with that mount. I'm not sure what the deal is with the dsmcs575, but it looks like a foreign version of the dccs677. Everything is identical, except for the 54v/60v branding. I haven't gotten my hands on a MSA300. I imagine it's a pretty nice saw from the looks of it, but the price gap is immense. The MSA300 is almost $800 for the bare tool, and the batteries are almost $400. If you wanted a saw and 2 batteries you would be at about $1600 after tax. I already have dewalt 60v batteries and tools, so it's really economical for me to stick with dewalt. Project farm did a comparison of the dccs670 and the msa220, and machinery nation did a comparison between the msa220 and the msa300. I haven't found any comparisons between the 670 and the 677 though. I guess it really comes down to how much you're willing to spend. Let me know if what you get and how you like it.

@@IrionLumber I have the same feeling, just feeling, that DCCS677 in 60V (US version) is same as DCMCS575 in 54V (EU version). Maybe because of advertisement rules are stricter in EU and do not allow to advertise 60Volt because battery is actually just 54Volt (tech limitations). I don't want to spent arm&leg on chainsaw. But I'm also not that rich to afford to buy a cheep stuff, either. I had one with toll less tensioner and "never more". Also seen teardown by AvE channel, and those lower spec tool less are just not for me. That's why I rather postpone a buy, save some more money, wait for makers to make a proper stuff and buy a tool later and on a low profi border. As I want to rely on it, use it for long time and occasionally but use it without being worried it will break any moment. That's why I do not want 670 but checking dccs677 / dcmcs575. Some comparison of those mage channel "Irion Lumber". If even 677 is not good, then I need to save more and buy Stihl. Which is old very renown chainsaw maker. IMHO a tiny better then Husqarna I'd say as I had a chance to compare their chainsaws my self.

I've never tried the carbide chains, but I haven't heard good things about them. I really want to try a full size chain too. I can't help but think that if the saw could handle it dewalt would have put one on from that factory, but I want to try it.

@@IrionLumber So, I took off the drive sprocket. It's a 10mm left hand thread (righty loosey, lefty tighty). I locked the chain brake and held the bar and chain with one gloved hand and tried a right hand twist. It pulled on the chain more than I thought it should, so I tried reversing to left hand twist and the bolt came loose easily. It's a tiny short bolt so be careful. The sprocket is reversible and has a flat sided drive shaft and I'm not sure what size. In the process of looking up all this, but my heart tells me it's best not to fight the design and just buy .050 lp 3/8 by the foot and get a chain breaker rivet repair link kit to make my own 20 inch chains. It lets the batteries last longer and broken sections could then be repaired without trashing the whole chain! Good job, DeWalt! Make chains scarce so customers happy with buying replacements are forced to resort to doing workarounds with other brand chains. Who was the engineer that thought this thru? Lol.

The 16" bar and chain are 3/8 low pro, so they are made to work with the sprocket that's on there. I will try machining the sprocket and using a standard 3/8 when I get my cannon bar in, but that is on backorder.

@@IrionLumber Which is why I'm taking the not fighting lp chain and just buying lp 3/8 in a roll. Until the plandemic dipsh*ts get finished worshipping Elon, logistics will be a mystery as the currency books get balanced between frenemies China, Russia and U.S. Inc. with the decades old push for bio microchip digital cattle tagging.

@@IrionLumber any luck machining the sprocket? I'm about to buy several saws for chainsaw art and I don't want to be locked into only buying chains and bars from Dewalt.

Yeah, I've had them come loosen, and I've had it snap off. It's a really poor design. I'm really glad they updated it.

@@IrionLumber your new dccs677 doesn’t have this issue?

No, I haven't had an issue with it yet. I don't think it will be an issue with the updated design.

Yes used locktite

I don't have any personal experience with ripping chain on this saw. Granberg, Stihl, and Archer make a 3/8LP 0.050" ripping chain. Any of those should work, you just need to figure out what length bar you want and get the appropriate length chain.

Yeah, it would be really nice if they made it a little bit more customizable. Like using a stihl 3003 mount and offering a few different sprockets. The thing is they're not a chainsaw manufacturer. They're a battery tool manufacturer that decided to make a chainsaw. All in all I'm pretty happy with it. It's a huge improvement over the previous model, and holds it's own against every other battery powered saw on the market. I'd like to try some different chains, but chances are I find that the one they picked is the best for it anyway.

@@IrionLumber Dewalt may be a power tool manufacturer, but so is Milwaukee and Makita as well as other brands such as greenworks, ego, ryobi so on so forth, and they're cordless chainsaw are much better built than the Dewalt's and can take standard profile full chisel. Thing is they could fix all these issues if they wanted.

I know for a fact that Milwaukee and Makita both use the same chain (3/8LP) as the Dewalt, which means they can't take a standard profile chain, unless there are aftermarket sprockets available. Every head to head comparison that I've come across has had the old Dewalt as a clear winner on cut speed, beating out stihl, husky, milwaukee, and makita. Presumably their new saw would do as good or better. I don't know what evidence you have for "much better built", I guess that's a matter of opinion. My opinion is that all battery powered saw are chintzy, but the latest Dewalt is about the best built of the ones I've gotten my hands on. Also, none of those other manufacturers offer 18" or 20" bars as far as I know. If you want to see a good head to head check out project farm's videos. They're a bit outdated now, maybe he could be convinced to do another one. Here are his vidoes ua-cam.com/video/_aBZt8m1XkQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/9WDaTwEwhTk/v-deo.html . If you know of any models using a standard profile full chisel, please send me the info. I would like to know more.

@@IrionLumber I think you're right about the sprockets needing to be different but as far as clearance, they can take standard without the plastic catching on the cutters, I don't think makita's lxt 36v has clearance but I believe the new xgt one does, maybe I'm wrong we'll have to see.

I got rid of all the dehumidification kilns that we had. We used Ebac originally and we had a lot of issues with it. It was a long time ago and they were old units. Their new units are probably better. We replaced the Ebac units with a Nyle, which was pretty reliable.

I would need a 40-50hp lawn mower to run a chain this size. Which would require a redesign of the gantry. I would also need a clutch, fuel tank, remote throttle and cutoff. The fuel would cost 5-8 times electric at market values. We have a solar system, so it would cost us even more. Plus, I would have to wait for it to warm up and listen to it idle between cuts. You certainly could make it work, but I don't see any advantage to it.

Thanks, I'm glad they're helpful.

Nope, not hands on anyways. The concept is essentially the same. You're just using a different heat source.

I used sprockets from 6k products. The part number is DS0148.

I used sprockets from 6k products. The part number is DS0148.

I used sprockets from 6k products. The part number is DS0148.

It’s a 4” 17 tooth .404 sprocket from 6k manufacturing. Part number DS0148.

It's best if you can just get it sealed up better. If you can't then adding moisture is your only option. Here is an article that you can use to determine what kiln schedule you should be running. Just follow the schedule an you should be fine. Keep the temp at or below what the schedule recommends and the rh at or above.

I have some small aluminum guards on the ends. I might make some bigger ones at some point. I've broken the chain probably 10 times now. It mostly just stays in the cut. I give it a wide berth and turn it off if I have to get anywhere near it.