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Midwest Brick Doctor
Приєднався 3 гру 2021
Hello my name is Alex and 25 years old and have been in business now for 3 years. I have been doing brickwork since I was about 8-9 years old. I was taught by my grandfather then soon moved on from that and worked with many other companies that taught me so much. We are a small brick repair and Tuckpointing business looking to video tape what I do on a day to day basis. I'd like to thanks you guys for showing interest. CHEERS!
The Brick Doctor IS BACK! | Company Trip At The Gun Range
IM BACK! We will start our video to return right when out season starts which is around April/May
#satisfying
#construction
#satisfying
#construction
Переглядів: 183
Відео
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Переглядів 2,8 тис.3 роки тому
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The hook needs to be Jerry is eating a saccada
Hahah😂😂😂
If you are repairing in Naperville or upper scale neighborhoods I recommended measuring the cement on a tarp and not on the bare driveway. Some customers wont appreciate this especially in west burb areas.
Welcome back to youtube. I appreciate your content.
Thank you sir! Excited to be back. Going to be better than ever this coming season!
Good to see u back. U were the 1st person who told me my time was coming. U were right. I dont doubt u.
Yur yt was doing really well. Always rem , film less. Looks like u got that down
@@GRUBB-MUDD yessir I’ll be in full throttle come April/May
2 to 1 is too rich
Glad he explained the importance of properly throwing the brush on the ground. Mark of a true tradesman
Can you use that primer with fire caulk so it can bond with the cmu wall?
@@JoseMartinez-ss1pm yes
@midwestbrickdoctor6670 can you tell me the name and brand of primer that you used
@@JoseMartinez-ss1pm masterseal p176
@@midwestbrickdoctor thank you very much sir
A surgical mask? Come on bro 😂
What kind of aceleran you use
@@rubenMarquez37 A-10 accelerator
I used this on my driveway 2 nights ago and it’s so thick I couldn’t tool it. It’s really really thick and sticky.
How much do you charge for that job
What type of caulk is that??
NP1 Masterseal
Thanks. Wish you was near Oklahoma.
Not tuck pointing
Was bit messy mate, good pointing don't need washing up.
Which grinding wheel is that, that you grind old mortar out with? Thanks for the great video!!
@@scottymakerdude3827 4 1/2 inch tuck point blade they have them on Amazon they are about 1/4inch thick… thin ones are annoying to use
Westminster smudge!
thank you so much, i am doing some volunteering at a local organization and I said I'd help get that done. did some tuckpointing way back before the wheel was born and things have changed, your tutorial was awesome!!! clear concise English, you did not mutter, utter, or slur your speech, no jargon, slang or super techy words, NO PROFANITY! and you explained facts, you kept the topic on point, short, informative and sweet. your camera was on spot, you moved to your specific points smoothly, easily and didn't go too fast! all your tips, and suggestion were good ones, and you use a perfect menudo hominy can for measuring! there might be some that would say not but I think you are awesome!! Thank you so much!
The joy of tuck pointing.
Where the vids at ?🥲
@@Angele701 I’m thinking of making a comeback next year. Not gonna lie idk how these other channels do it.. to work and make videos is consuming… but I’ll try it again! Good to know there’s people out there looking for it.
Way too strong bro! 6:1:1 you need and use lime
What finishing tool is that
@@mikegarcia2308 2” spatula I believe
Great work. Is it self leveling clauk?
@@kashifrana6798 no it’s NP1 masterseal
Appreciate your sharing your knowledge. Excellent video. Thank you!
00:03 Detailed guide on tuck pointing and mortar mixing 02:12 Tuck pointing involves using a concave jointer and bricksmith cement mix. 03:45 Mix masonry cement for tuck pointing 05:43 Preparing for tuck pointing with necessary tools and protective gear. 08:01 Tuck pointing technique demonstration 10:02 Tips for knowing when to brush the mortar 11:36 Prepare muriatic acid wash for mortar and brick cleaning 13:02 Be cautious when using muriatic acid for washing as it can cause expensive damage to materials like copper flashing.
Get yourself a battery powered caulk gun. 😅
@@alexouretski115 you got weak forearms
@@midwestbrickdoctor lol😅
hey brother, do u do work on the side for extra cash?? im in Lemont IL?
Yes
It's amazing how when you watch hundreds of instructional and *advice* videos from people in 'the trade' how much variation there is in work. In the UK there are a lot of differences compared to this guy, and 99% of our houses are brick construction and have to face up to some pretty harsh and seasonal weather. PPE - a blue face mask? Really? Those things can't stop a fart let alone carcinogenic dust like this. FP3, filters or full air-driven mask. Ear defenders? He'll be suffering the effects of this before he's 40 without them. No guard on the grinder? I trust he actually tightened the blade up with the tool off-camera and not just by hand. Accident waiting to happen there. Didn't explain proper technique or the why's and how's for grinding. Get that wrong and you risk cutting into your brick. Not wetting the bricks after grinding? - It helps the mortar stick and stops the mortar drying out too quick and eliminating cracking. Can't comment on the ratio for over in the U.S. but 2:1 seems off. I'd use a 5:1:1 - 5 sand, 1, cement and 1 hydrated lime. The lime will help your mortar stick to the old stuff better and you won't need the activator. I wouldn't be impressed with a tradesman using my driveway or outside my house as a mixing deck. Just throw a piece of scrap wood or something. Scruffy! I personally hate mixing small batches in a wheelbarrow. You can see how some of the dry stuff is still hanging around on the sides of it. It'll weaken your mixture. Dressing off your pointing whilst it's still dry will always smear your brick. Slap your mortar in the joint (carefully), leave it to go off then use that brush to tap the mortar. It'll help pack it in and bed better into the joint. Once it's dry to touch, THEN you can start cleaning up the joint. Use something like the edge of a piece of wood or a finger jointer to smooth off the pointing. The concave shape will help direct water away from the joint. You don't want that sitting in there. If you do this there's no need to use acid as you won't have mortar all over your brick.
No lime added?
He was probably using masonry cement so it already had the lime in it
Hey brother, love your videos and your work. How can we reach you to get a quote?
@@adriansoto1601 brickdoctor1999@gmail.com
Aren't you supposed to saturate the bricks with water before tuck pointing?
You said it was caused possibly by not using wall ties on that verticle crack. Is tuck pointing alone gonna solve the issue or putting in a wall tie like it's need a better fix? Honest question.
No straight joints like that crack even with wall ties every 16 inches I've been a Mason for more than 20 years I've done a ton of re pointing and restoration the grinding out sucks but the jointing is nice and easy but I would caulk that I would get a caulking that best matches the mortar I would tell the customer if you want I can fix it with mortar but it's just gonna Crack again so caulking will last longer because it will stretch when the brickwork separates a little bit
Hope your not tooling like that anymore 😂
Looks good brother. Nice work
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything? Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore? Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
@@damnwankers yes use a grout bag… type N masonry cement 3:1 sand to cement ratio
Can we use master seal NP1 repair a 1/2" concrete siding crack?
@@ANe-ut5rl yes
What was the primer you used?
Use a sandwich blade..so much easier
That's the way she goes boys
good tips you should try wetting the joints a little bit bricks soaks up the water and helps the bond
Garden pressure sprayer is what I use.
That’s not tuckpointing
3:07 why make more work for yourself making a mess. Honest question ❤
That day my sand was frozen in the morning I had to take it out to cut it up
Great video! How did you remove the existing caulking? We have that awful yellow spray foam where our red brick meets the concrete. :( Thanks!
I usually use my utility blade but Iam frequently changing the blade as I go to make it easier on me. If you have foam try to cut it down a little below the concrete then caulk over it as that will be your foam backer so you’re not using a crazy amount of caulking. Make sure you use Np1 as other caulking won’t be as easy to tool
What kind of acid do you recommend to clean off the outside of a chimney before spraying it with water repellant?
Won't this shrink and be a mess in a few years?
Good job
Common, any real mason would never use brick that didnt match to the point of this repair. You shoulda laid them all backwards they would match better not to mention they are an inch smaller. Your perps are huge.. and seriously what mason uses acid to clean the brick work
what's an appropriate price- rate for a mason to perform such a task?