Відео

thanks for your feedback and info. I did put the whole stack of plates back in at the same time. cheers.

Thanks 👍

I've got an aftermarket manual, and I researched the topic online before I did the job and made the video. I made the vid because there is nothing out there. Thanks for watching though. They're just my thoughts and if you watched the drum video to the end I recommended that you get a pro to do the job...properly...

Three turns.

Not possible , needles are in the top of the carb and you won't get to all the screws for the carbs without removing the tank and carbs. Tank must be removed for access. If this is your first time, maybe find a friend who has worked on bikes a lot. There is a manual online. Why do you need to adjust the needles? Did you put another exhaust on? (I bitch about this job and I have been working on my own bikes for forty years... It's not impossible, but it's not enjoyable. I only do it if I have to.)

Like I said in the video, unless you have the tools to set the brake "horseshoe" size, AND given the limited access to the adjustment, I'd be taking it to an independent brake specialist who has a Ford background and just getting them to do the job properly. Given that my car has 200,000km on it and there is NO wear on the parking brake, I'd be resistant to anyone telling you that you need the parking brake replaced... Good luck and thanks for watching!

yeah, I ordered one of those, the only problem is mounting it in this chassis. But I did find the replacement fuel cap was not properly venting the tank, so that might have had something to do with it to. I haven't run into the issue again since I "fixed" the fuel cap either.

The 140 is a good price effective swap. If I did it again I'd get an engine where the oil filter can be replaced without removing the sidecover...I get 100kmh out of it with a VMN22 Mikuni & Pro Circuit Copy Pipe. It's about 20% better than a stock engine. I helped a guy in the USA get the stator kit & rear sprocket from OO Racing in the UK and he says he gets 120kmh with his 212 4 valve engine, (but at about twice the cost.)

​ @mattjacomos2795 very intresting..I dont want to have the topspeed at the end because it can couse a "deathwobble" where the frontwheel starts shaking like crazy and causes accidents in a bad moment.. I like to have more touqe in the under RPM, maybe for some wheelie practice and some soft enduro sports. I know OO Racing from the UK, they have really good parts for really good prices. they are my choice to order, but the brexit causes heavy importtaxes here in germany where i live.. I got the lagest intake manifold, stock 26mm carb, stock gear racio and removed the stock airfilter for a open filter. My Bike runs also around 100 Kmh, but only whit a bit backwind :).. Im thinking about putting a new engine with 150 ccm in my bike but here in germany we got strict rules that not allow to modiefy anything like we want :( so i have to do this "undercover".

@@mattjacomos2795 and i also put a oilcooler on my engine, i would you please to do that to because most of the engines die by to high oil temp, and you can fix this with the cooler, if you want, i can send you some pics and the parts i ordered, it plug and play

I agree, but the disc is specific to the XF and the DR Big and it's pretty pricey. It's 1 degree C here this morning, so the bike is just going to be put away for the winter. (and I'm old and ride slowly...)

Thanks for the tips! I did not know that about the grooves, but I did lube the pins on reassembly.

I put the pads in (in another video ua-cam.com/video/QRGeOB9O6n4/v-deo.html) and I'm happy to report the brakes are satisfactory. I agree with the new pistons, but I wanted to see what you could do without piston replacement. The bike is about to lie up for the Winter here in Australia, it was -1C this morning...

It's not my bike, but those rims looked a lot bigger than RS125. I suppose they were about CBR600 size if I had to guess...

LOL, it's 8th mile and the CR didn't bog out that time...

You're welcome man, thanks for watching!

I did the best I could with the information available. I did do another video with drum adjustment after this one... How do you adjust the shoes with the drums on?

Glad it helped

You're welcome!

My 626 was an Auto and whilst I have examined the gearing differences, it's only about 300rpm and for the money I'd just get some taller 17" wheels and achieve the same outcome, especially given how rare these gearboxes are now...You'll love the extra torque, it transforms the car and it should be a six second 0-100 and 15 second 1/4 mile car with the stock KL-DE. Just make sure you extend the wire for the VRIS connector BEFORE you put the engine in! If you need any assistance, hit me up!

@@mattjacomos2795 I have a complete mx6 manual gearbox that came with the engine so have been tossing up if I should go that or stick with the 30x shorter final drive, decisions. Thanks for the advice, have been looking at all the differences in the hoses and how I am going to join them all up as well as going a pod filter and removing the existing air box which losses a vacuum point on there. Would love to have some extra knowledge at hand, is there an easier way to communicate then through UA-cam , Facebook messager etc? Thanks

Booster hose goes into the KL-DE inlet manifold, using the stock K8 hose. Otherwise I'm not quite sure what you mean, but thanks for watching.

I set them up on the bench in this video: ua-cam.com/video/MGQoxZiYEW0/v-deo.html but I don't have a set of vacuum gauges and it would be real hard to get to the sync screw while it's running...

​@@mattjacomos2795, yes that's the issue i am running into at the moment. It is possible to get to it, but that's without fairings and a loose tank. I have the gauges but I am not sure I am doing it the right way. Thanks for the quick reply anyway!

I got mine from Auto Sports Imports when I was down in Sydney last month. Roy usually keeps it in stock and he's a top bloke. Thanks for watching. What are you running it on?

The factory manual recommends the engine be on TDC COMPRESSION when the clearances are checked. Also, I saw someone on You Tube do it...The reason would be to keep from changing the cam timing, I suppose. If the valves are being pushed down by the cam, they would end to push on the cam and thus affect the position of the cam chain drive sprocket and the cam timing. Does that make sense?

How does the timing change? Both the primary gear and the camshaft stay in the same position, only the chain gets loose a little bit. Maybe the chain will be too loose and the camshaft will move a link? I don't think it's realistic.

Yes maybe it's possible it will move if the chain is too loose.

@@ronenfe I think to keep the tension on the chain on the same (tensioner) side when changing the tensioner, as if the slack in the chain moves the other way (to the other side?) the chain run could be different? Once I zip tied the cam gears to the chain on my KTM 390 (had to remove the cams to do the shim clearance) and the fuckers still moved relative position on the chain...!

You don't need to do this at tdc

Thanks so much!! It makes it feel worthwhile when you get a comment..

I's running better than ever with the last couple of fixes... Glad to be of assistance.

Turned out the distributor had been opened before I had the vehicle and not put back together properly... Heaps of corrosion inside the distributor. I was chasing vac leaks and Fuel pressure issues in this process. There was a stack of receipts with the car showing workshops chasing this job. The 1995 (Series2) distributors aren't renown for coil failures like the Series 1 distributors... Series 1 distributor from 1993 626 fitted and it cured the issue... Car now runs like it should.

Hi, thanks for watching. Unstable idle could be cause by many issues and I'm NOT a mechanic. What is your idle speed? I'd check the ignition timing, then the idle speed, then the Throttle Position Sensor & throttle stop screw setting (I have another video on this). Looking at the workshop manual, erratic stalling could be related to a loose connection in the wiring harness. That's your Distributor, EFI harness and HT leads. The manual recommends "jiggling" the wires while the engine is running to re-create the fault and I'd be checking the earthing sites in the engine bay to make sure that's not an issue either. Remove the ground and use a bit of steel wool to clean it up. The cause could also be a vacuum leak and the intake boot is the most common cause of this. Let me know how you go.

I should have said "If you leave it on prime" and it's a well known problem on the XF. There are aftermarket petcocks available with a fully manual selector which switches off, however since I leave the petcock in the ON position AND I replaced the needle valves, the problem has not recurred. Thanks for the comment.

I purchased the tensioner off EB. The gaiters were on there at purchase. and you're welcome. Thanks for the comment too.

Well, most commonly the issue is a vac leak and I have uploaded a video of vacuum testing the inlet system. I also pumped butane all around the inlet to check while the car was running, so it was a process of elimination. I'm going to give it a week for the computer to do a bit of re learning and then check all the settings again.

I've made another video on the rear brake setup if you have further issues, like a swooshing noise coming from the RHR...

except for actually working on the bike I agree... It's a bloody good bike as long as you don't need to get to the carbs, which I have had to do multiple times...

there was an earlier comment made that the brakes should be adjusted from the rear wheels BEFORE adjusting the cable length as in my video .In another vid I have dived into the rear brake setup and sorted the noise from the brake.

I haven't done this yet and I think it would be such a bastard of a job, I'm going to get my local dirt bike mechanic to do it! There's a screw in between the bell-mouths that I think you'd have to remove the airbox to get to, (or at least the bell-mouth flanges.) There's no way to get to it from the top or front I can see, and since this is such a bugger of a job, I'm not that bothered about it. The factory manual refers to this as the Throttle Valve Balance Screw, however it is not in the exploded schematic of the carbs! If you have the carbs off the bike already you should take the time to sync the butterflies... I didn't and I'm not that bothered about it. mine runs pretty well, but it IS a bastard to start sometimes...The manual refers to removing the tank and using an auxiliary tank to supply fuel, setting the idle at 1750rpm and then balancing the carbs using this screw in between the bell-mouths. I don't have a "manometer" to balance the carbs either and that's my excuse! Is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this job? here's a link to the manual: www.moto4.ru/downloads/Suzuki_XF650_Freewind_Service_Manual.pdf and the pages you'll need to check out start from 127 -131 of the PDF.

@@mattjacomos2795 I.have a slight pulsation at low revs e.g doing 40 to 50kmh in like 3rd and 4th is noticeable its not bad but its there and if it can be sorted its just a bonus iv a mate thats up there with diagnostics seems to steer in that direction Appreciate your help thanks

Al sorted purchased a Dl so now have xf650 for sale Dunedin nz, thanks for your time

First time I did it I ended up taking the shocks to a 4wd place and they had a hard time replacing the springs... I tried using 4x spring compressor on the job and still couldn't compress them enough to remove the springs.

ironic, that park brake from Banksia Park! I grew up in Adelaide.

I had a BF straight gas ute and finding fuel was a big issue for me too, plus the price of fuel made the egas benefit redundant... i remember when gas was 20 cents per litre!

as long as it give me dramas, I'll keep producing content, but they're pretty sweet cars...

I'm on Australian Ford Forums, but I got that hit on Fordmods (an Aussie forum) from a Google search after like a week of searching...

thanks for taking the time to point that out. I'll sort it out later tonight

I took the bike for a spin past the local dirt bike mechanic and he had the opinion that the tensioner may be the issue, given that I had previously inspected the valve clearances AND that there are known issues with the tensioner on these motors. NO power loss noticed. It is a pretty heavy duty HYVO type cam chain on these bikes. I'm going to re do the valve clearances again, but there are plenty of videos on line about that.

I have counted seven clicks from released, with a firm pull. I couldn't find a spec, but it feels fine there and locks the wheels when moving.

@@mattjacomos2795 I did mine to 5 clicks with a firm pull, 4 clicks otherwise. Been told between 5-9 clicks, dont know how accurate that is though, at least I dont roll down the driveway anymore.😂

FYI, the shit-box started playing up again! This time when you turn the lights on the brake lights come on and stay on, when you turn the lights off, the brake lights respond to the pedal, BUT the dash indicator comes on. Cruise works with lights off, but not with the lights on.... So I reckon the indicator does work for both circumstances... I reckon I have a short in the tail light loom. More video coming soon...

@@mattjacomos2795 I reckon that sounds like a brake switch problem. Replace the brake switch first (underneath the brake pedal leaver). Should be cheap enough.

Do you have a tow bar. Check for green death. When water gets into the trailer harness it does magical things.

@@tba3900 I did check that, but it was fine.

I replaced the switch, no dice. Cleaned the bulb holders and it came good again!

Thanks for the clarification and the info dude! I actually found the bulb socket was the issue, once I cleaned it out they magically worked again, $160 later...

damn.... That would have been perfect!

Glad I could help

Thanks for the info! Sounds like the noise is coming from that point on the engine. The KLDE hasn't run in a year or so. (it's SO cold here that I'd die of bloody exposure working outdoors from May till November...)

I'm going to pull the rear discs off in another vid...

ex-commision joint with plenty of projects. I'm removing the pulley bolt to remove the cam covers to check the timing, but I found out that the timing belt and water pump have been replaced before... So I really didn't need to do it! AND the covers are two piece, so they can be removed without removing the pulley! (but you can't see the crank timing with the pulley on the engine.)