Відео

Thank you. And yes the left knob is the bass knob, the right knob is the potentiometer for my blue box regulator. 🙂

I design and build everything for myself. Been into car audio since about 1991

@jeremywilliams8558 That's fucking amazing man. What modeling software would you recommend for me to model and simulate the response of a series tuned 6th in a vehicle?

I use WinISD Beta. However it will not automatically calculate the enclosure sizes and tuning. You just have to play with them until it looks like a decent graph for your needs.

$775.75 total after shipping and all discounts applied.

Thank you!

Nice man! Yeah I love me some old school M series PG! Those 3 are running 12-8” and 12-silk dome tweets in the doors. 4 ohm stereo each amp.

It won’t make the same current. I have already made that video during some SPL testing where ainhad my battery up to around 15.2 volts. I clamped the current at the battery bank and it was right at 56 amperes of current going into the battery with just the vehicle running. And then I hit it with about a 10,000 watt burp and it only increased the current going into the battery by 10 amperes. That was really a test for how little the alternator works when the battery bank is properly sized for the amplifier output. And also like you said the battery voltage close to the alternator voltage setpoint. Thanks for watching

Thanks for the comment. Last night at work it got me to thinking about another video showing the entire charge cycle of my battery from 14.0 volts up to 15.3ish volts. Will be a rather long video but it will also show how the alternator works with the voltage set point higher than the battery bank and then it will show how the alternator naturally reacts to the battery bank as the battery bank voltage starts to increase and gets closer to the alternator voltage set point.

Thank you. This guy rarely comes over to my house and it was a very weird situation he had going on. I think I forgot to post the video where his alternator case wasn’t making a good ground with the alternator bracket. It wasn’t a great video because it was at night and couldn’t really see what was happening too well. But where the alternator case comes directly into contact with the alternator bracket it wasn’t making a good electrical connection which was causing most of his issues. But back to this video I didn’t capture the amperage when we first started up the truck. I was just too concerned with did we get the issues fixed. So the alternator charged his 80aH Yinlong pretty quickly sonthe amperage natural went down as the voltage of the battery bank went up. So yeah I was kind of disappointed I missed that opportunity to show it in full. And like I said the guy very rarely comes over to my house.

Thanks for watching. I am in the process of acquiring a BassHead Garage Watt Meter VERSION 1 so I can do a side-by-side comparison of the v1 versus the v2 versions so everyone can see what they look like and see the differences between the two. I didn't even know they made 2 versions already but luckily the two I have currently are both the updated version 2 which are pretty accurate as far as I am concerned.

More videos to come to support this idea!

Did you watch the video?

I also watched the video from beginning to end i didn't see any load put on alternator ​@jeremywilliams8558

You ALMOST got it correct. You are correct in saying the alternator is NOT under load in this scenario. But you are not seeing the big picture which is NOT shown in this video, but will be coming in future videos. Stay tuned.

Thanks

That is absolutely correct and the whole point of this video. 👍

Thank you!

On a different battery bank (200aH Yinlong) I was using a single 5 amp Heltec balancer. The cells would consistently be around 25mV within balance. I added a 2nd balancer to that bank and it kept it in balance within 5mV. When I first built this 160aH SCiB bank I used the QNBBM balancer because I already had it laying around and it was rated for 10 amps. Once I determined the QNBBM balancer was faulty, I just decided to go with the 2 Heltecs based on the scenario I had with the 200aH Yinlong bank.

I bought a 2nd BHG-WM and I am planning on doing a comparison video between the two units along with a DMM and AC clamp. I was not aware of this but apparently they have a v1 and a v2 watt meter? Another commenter stated the v1 was not very accurate. He also said I had a v2 watt meter. Again I was not aware of that when I purchased mine. Regardless of that I will be doing that comparison video when I get everything set up and can provide a good comparison between them all. I am also going to be purchasing an SMD AMM-1 in the future and do that comparison as well. Thanks for watching and thanks for the input!

Thanks for watching!

Me too. I have seen some test video comparing it to other devices. I am going to do some of my own testing with it against the Termlab and also against the SMD AMM-1 when I get the time and resources.

@@jeremywilliams8558 I seen them too hifivector and Parker. It was pretty close

@@jeremywilliams8558the v1 is incredibly inaccurate & I’m being shipped a v2 to test. You can see my comparisons on my channel, great test on this Orion hopefully the v2 is more accurate then the v1 of the bhg. Subscribed to watch more 🎉

I am not sure which versions I have. I actually bought the last one that Big Jeff had on Ebay so I could have one to test in vehicle to compare with the Termlab clamp. Thanks for the info!

@@jeremywilliams8558 You have the V2 I can tell by the sensor in the video. 👍