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My house is an older cape cod (80 years old, cape, brick + cinder block, plaster walls). Pretty sure it's solid masonry, altho if there's an air cavity between the brick and cinder block, that will determine what steps to take. Matt Risinger has some great videos, one is on "Insulation of Masonry in Historic Buildings." At roughly the 5-minute mark Matt's guest has some ideas for solid masonry. Also, I highly recommend Belinda Carr, she has super informative videos, one on vapor barriers vs. vapor retarders. Since I'm in Zone 4, and *IF* my structure has an air cavity between the brick and cinder block, then I need a vapor retarder. But *IF* there is no air cavity in the walls, a vapor barrier might have to be constructed on the interior as mentioned in Matt's video. Depends on which Zone you're in.... I hope your solution will be easily determined. For me, it's finding out about the wall cavity, if I even have one. Good luck to you! 🙂

Solid masonry walls? My house has a brick veneer over cinderblock, and plaster interior walls. No insulation. Were yours like this? I'm researching having interior framing and insulation installed to help our cold, damp house. Just wondering that's what you did?

@Sheena Rea the walls are clay bricks done in English bond, held together with Lime mortar. We took all the internal plaster off (this was a mixture of gypsum & and under coat of cement! We let the walls breathe for a month until they'd dried out some. Then we used celotex insulation floor to ceiling, fixing it on with foam and a high strength grab adhesive. No mechanical fixings, as we didn't want a cold bridge, taped all the joints with foiled tape. We Left that a couple of days to fully set. Hollowed out the insulation for the few wall sockets we have on the external walls. Then fixed plaster board on with high strength grab adhesive. Plastered, fitted new skirting and painted. So far so good🤞

@@llisntcoolj2375 Good on you for using foam as the bonding. I used mechanical fixings and haven't had any problems though. As for the contents of this video - nearly all polyurethane insulation includes a foil skin - as does celotex - so the warnings about intersitial condensation are unnecessary - especially as you taped the joints. Our gas usage, over three years ago, was 13,000 kwh annually. Under 8,000 now, and the house stays warmer and more comfortable. There are a lot of scare stories going around about internal insulation just now. As long as the insulated plasterboard isn't fixed to timber grounds, there shouldn't be a problem. Joist ends in external walls just possibly - but the wall won't be insulated in those locations anyway.

@@llisntcoolj2375 How thick was the celotex insulation? Thanks.

@@augnkn93043 60mm on the walls, but only 25mm in the window and door reveals, as 60mm +plasterboard would have come over the window frames onto the glazing.

Do some more research, but rock wool was our first choice until we found out about sheep’s wool.

Mineral wool is great for insulation & its claimed to be hydrofobic. But in reality it performs really, really badly in wet environments as it will become saturated with water & that is a massive problem. Your only solution (if you want your 100 year old walls to last another 100 years) is to insulate externally.

Google steico woodfibre board or cork insulation. It might give you another option.

It can. If it gets damp or wet it's useless and it takes up a lot of space, it has half the insulation value of a solid PIR board type for the same thickness. It has to be treated otherwise insects and the like will eat it.

No

Yes and no. Yes you lose thermal mass but also you insulate the external walls from outside. With lower mass walls this is beneficial in the summer.

@@abescheele I guess it really depends on the environment of the homesite. I have a brick garage built in the early 1900's and it stays relatively cool in the summer. This is probably due to the location (MA) not very hot summers, and its in the shade all day so the brick never really absorbs heat from direct sun just ambient temps from outside

I thought about that but england doesnt have constant hot 6 month summers like the intense winter a of 7 months we have :p so actually its fine to swap it for some minor summer costs. Winter is a intense fuel burner when summer you can have a cold shower and cool down :p

I've worked with removing damp problems in old buildings for years and I've got the picture that external insulation is always better than internal. The worst I've heard is that in some cases south side exterior insulation can actually make the building colder!

@@emmaearnshaw3282 That's interesting. It might be possible to calculate whether it is true or not. Estimate the solar gain with and without the insulation. As a practical matter it seems like for most locations it wouldn't be true. In cold and moderate climates there isn't a lot of heat gain possible in the winter and the heat loss without insulation would overwhelm the lost solar gain. In warmer climates you would still need to balance about 8 hours a day of reduced solar gain with 16 hours a day of no solar gain. And of course for houses in the warmer climates blocking solar gain in the summer time is a good thing.

The coating system should be breathable. Trapped moisture is a big no-no.

Coatings, dependent on their make-up, can lock in moisture, which is the last thing a wall needs. It either has to vapour permeable or not. If I was you, I would insulate the wall by strapping it with wood, infilling with insulation, installing a vapour barrier and then, applying insulated gyproc. Then, no warm air/moisture will reach your cold wall where it can condensate.

Yes becaus egypt is cold and wet just like scotland

@@lacka90 Heat wave pal haha god bless your Egyptian socks

I've heard of a few: Diathonite lime, cork and clay based insulating plaster; or wood fibre, sheep wool and hemp with a lime plaster.

Udiin2cm

@@alexlees9223 Desirable for stone walls, yes. Use lime to allow vapour diffusion.

Lime, Cork, wood fibre, rockwool, wool, glass wool, hemp, hempcrete are examples of vapour open materials which can be used to insulate old buildings

2:25

@@vikentijslauruts2153 foam board is the only one i can think of

Foil backed plasterboard

@@deanodog3667 plasterboard is not an insulation material.

Foil-faced PUR/PIR foams (actually foil-faced anything). foamglass (it's a closed-cell glass), XPS (Extruded polystyrene) is fairly vapour tight, but not totally (it's a scale, not a yes/no).

Condenses. Condensate is a noun (the liquid that collects when condensation happens). That was a strange/glaring mistake given the quality of English in the rest of the video.

Hi. I am also doing a small report about this problematic. May I ask you few questions about it? Let me know if you are willing to talk about this through email for example :)

@@jurajboda6738 I work in the insulation industry and I have attended courses on the insulation on solid stone walls. The insulation, plaster all has to be permeable to allow the wall to breathe and for moisture to wick back and forwards.

The house was insulated with IQ-Therm, 80mm. Furthermore it was hydrophobized with Funcosil FC.

Just to clarify - what do you mean by "an internal wall which is set into a cutting in a hill"? Could you expand on this a bit?

Rear concrete wall is built into the side of a sloping hill. Similar to the problems concerning a concrete basement wall. Bone dry concrete but for thermal insulation & to save on heating bills thought cork ideal ? What research have you on cork as insulation for interier walls ?

@@ribuildproject1479 Please share infromation you have to date. Thank you.

@@personalexperience3637 There has not been done any research on the use of cork as insulation material in RIBuild, so we can't help you. Sorry.

@@personalexperience3637have you found a solution. I have a stone cottage built into the side of a hill and want to insulate internally! Thanks

This project is funded by the EU and no money has been allocated to do personal counselling with regards to insulation. You could try to write to ribuild@sbi.aau.dk - maybe one of the experts within the project would like to donate some personal time to your studies.

The area around the windows has, in accordance with the guidelines, been insulated with thinner insulation plates. The thinnest breathable product is 30 mm thick. If thinner is needed, due to lack of space between the wood windows and the brick wall, a 15 mm non breathable plate can be used. When working with breathable products it is important to use sealing foil between all wood and the breathable product to avoid moisture in the wood. 30 mm breathable insulation was used where the space allowed e.g around doors, and where the space did not allow, or flexibility was needed e.g. the arch above the windows, the 15 mm insulation was used. This solution avoided cutting in the brick wall - which off course is a fairly labour requiring option. You are right, when insulating inside, the walls will generally be colder hence more moist. In order to address this, the walls have been impregnated on the outside in order to keep them more dry than without impregnation. The breathable insulation on the inside walls is 80 mm which allows some heat will escape to the walls, however not noticeable on the indoor climate.

Ribuild Project Thank you. Such an interesting topic. Given the fact that stone buildings can last hundreds of years I guess the adage (in English) “that only time will tell” takes on new meaning. It’s almost as if the buildings are living beings. But they talk to us very slowly! You mention the walls are impregnated from the outside. Presumably this helps to stop moisture from penetrating the stone but does this allow for any drying to the outside?

Thank you. We did our best :-)