Відео

@angelalandry1196 hi, this is for the hard top model. There is a flat roof trim piece held on by the springs. ,the spring is mounted to a short metal rod that is part of the convertible top arm that lifts up the front section. The spring has two arms that stick out. Each end of the spring arm goes into a gap on the bottom side of a plastic roof trim. Then there are clips that lock the spring arms to the plastic roof trim. 2 springs for each side and 4 clips (2 clips each spring). I'm not sure if the 435i works the same..I think it might though. Does that help?

@CohortofEntrepreneurs I make no excuse, I state fact. I can't speak for anyone else though. From what I've been seeing lately in some states, there's going to be a lot of people removing tags.

@@kiddbmo71 glad it helped

Hi,,your best bet is to join owwm "dot" org. There is a forum and a for sale section. You can ask there as many of the members rebuild old machinery.

Take your time and don't get frustrated. Hopefully your new heater core is built well. Check the solder joints of the 2 tubes. I don't remember if I mentioned it in the video, but using a long screw driver or wooden dowel through the firewall into the tubes is a good way to guide them through the holes. Like a red dot sight. But firm. That was the hardest part. Good luck!!!

Hi, I'm glad the video helped. I understand what you are saying about the groove. It is seated correctly. The only thing I think it can be is the piercing pin is sticking out too much. I checked this multiple times and let my friend check also. We still can't figure it out. You might have a newer model gun that takes a 12g cartridge. The 12g is much longer than an 8g and would never fit in my gun. Oh,,I'm off about 3.17mm for the threads to catch. Maybe less.

@@MarcsRandomVids Hi, thanks for responding :) Ok I understand, I think you're right :) Did you try with 8g co2 cartridges ? You can still find them on the internet

@remihash2174 hi,,yes. I have the 8g cartridges. As of now, the only way to make it work is to remove a very small amount of metal from the screw cap. The screw cap is shaped like a bowl. The rear of the cartridge sits in it. If I make the bowl deeper, the threads will mate.

Hi,,I wouldn't buy the tool because it's basically a one time thing, hopefully. Read the comments below as some people had great ideas that worked. My best suggestion to you would be either take it back to the store, if you can, or freeze it. Once it's frozen you can crack the plastic,, do it quickly though.

@@MarcsRandomVids Thanks for the reply. Yeah of course I'm not going to buy the tool for one item, just annoyed the inconvenience! I'm more just curious how the proper tool works - I'm guessing it hooks onto that bit and has 6 pins that push down into the holes... Or I could just do your initial thing and dremel away the middle of the side that doesn't have the ink vials.

@rakeau that's why i used the dremel. Unlocking it didn't work. I'm not sure of the name of the locking method, but picture a thin metal cone with a hole in the tip just slightly smaller than the pin. If you push the pin through the hole from inside of the cone, the cone metal binds against the pin. Trying to pull the pin back out only causes the cone metal to dig in deeper around the pin. You could still push the pin through, but not pulling it out. To release the pressure, the cone must be pushed from the inside. Almost like the stud of an earing, or a lapel pin with the button on the back. Freeze it first. Lol. Hope that helped.. ?

@@MarcsRandomVids Yep, makes sense, I'm just not sure how somehow puncturing the tag thru some of the 6 holes on the other side (the side with the vials) will release the grip of the "cone" on the other half that you're talking about. Encountered another tag once before, but that was easily released with a strong magnet. The bit on that one that 'grips' the pin used small bearings that the magnet would lift up. But this one sadly is different. A magnet will stick to it, but not release it.

@rakeau I like the magnet idea. It's been a while and even though I just watched the video,,I still don't remember exactly what I was talking about. I think.....using the dremel, bypassed the need for the six holes. So the pin I was left with was still stuck in the lock. I think I just freed up the opposite end. Maybe you can experiment more. Dissect it better than I did.

Lots of ideas here. Thanks

Hey how'd u get the screw in?

Screw it in? Or just prod it in? Also what kinda screw did you use?

@@hennayas9031 screwed it in. Just any screw will do around the same size as the hole (one I was used larger than the hole). I only screwed in a couple of mm and it released the tag

I've just done the same what you said by screwing one hole between the the red & blue and it comes off in 4 sec xxx Thank you so much You're a super star 👌👌

What I did many years ago was make a 3 position switch hooked up to the accelerater linkage that went to a custom light bar I made. It wasn't vacuum related. The lights dont work on vacuum, they work on pressure. You can look up pressure switches but nothing will having the specs gm used. Contact" tta performance". He has pressure switches that will help.

The neck doesn't touch the brass, but that's a good remedy if they made contact. My only option is to deepen the cup that pushes the cartridge into the gun

@@MarcsRandomVids ok

My best guess, possibly the resistance wires broke. There are 2 sets of wires going to the lights. Regular wires for high and if I remember correctly, dark green (3 ) for low). The dark green wires get brittle and can crack. Moving them around can damage them and they can't be repaired. Try using a voltage tester, but that's going to get you to open taped up wires. If the resistance wires are broken you can make new ones using wire and i think diodes (?). I made them because my wires were shot.I won't be near my car for quite some time..so I'm doing this from memory. Let me know how you make out

Is the Normal light on at idle? Does that switch to low? Or is it while driving, low doesn't work at all? Ot could also be the low pressure switch in front of the carburetor. It is sort of buried. Make sure the plug didn't come off.

@trex117427 on low setting the normal light is not on. And the med and high lights stopped working too. When I switch to high, the normal light works the the med and high come on. If it's 'the resistance wire' what would be easiest fix?

@trex117427 didn't think it would be low pressure switch if they come on when set to high. And thank you

@gerarda7657 the normal light should always be on. Yeah..skip th3 pressure switch, I got confused. I would first the back of the hi/lo switch to make sure the low side terminals have continuity to the low wire. If it does, I believe it's the resistance wires causing the issue. You can trace them back from the light bar all the way to where they meet 1 wire. I'll try to find the info on how to make them

Ha! I don't remember why it was there. Maybe I was using it to hold something up. I don't remember.

Yeah, they could at least make the pin thinner

A store hasn't left one on since I made this video. I think the most effective way depends on how many you need to remove. Just read the comments, they will give you good ideas to try.

@@MarcsRandomVids no worries. It’s a interesting device. Magnet don’t seem to work with this on..

lol me tooo

Sorry,,I don't even remember making this video. I junked the car last year

Interesting. I hope I don't need to try it again.

@@MarcsRandomVids well you never know with all these young dumb apprentices, they didn't know socks even had tags

Expensive socks lol

@@MarcsRandomVids just Nike ones, I saw that there was one tag still on when I got home so I took it off then realised there's 2 more. I guess people steal them a lot

They say socks are the things homeless people ask for the most. Maybe Nike socks are a hit with them.

Bro shuddap

No, the magnet wouldn't work. I believe the pin is being held by metal that is "biting" on the sides of the pin. If you google "push nuts" you can get an idea of how it is holding.

I'm glad it worked. I'm starting to think that wherever the clothes get shipped from that they don't have the device to remove the tag either, so the let it be the customers problem

This just happened to me on a nike item from guess where…Finishline smh…gonna try this method

Well, they actually sell tools that remove the ink tags much easier. My method is a lot of work and can still possibly ruin clothes. So for the people who can't have the tag removed , it helps them. What's strange is how some states allow stealing up to $900 from stores. Now we have people running in and robbing whatever they can grab. There are also videos on how to pick locks, remove wheel locks from cars and how to pick pockets....I could go on.

Glad it helped!

Yes, I changed the power steering. I junked the armada a month ago. There was too much to fix. I tried selling the engine seperate to stuff into a small car, no one wanted it.

That works. I was going to use a soldering iron.

That worked great! Thanks

wdym it’s not a song it’s real

many people were complaining, after they realized it wasnt spaceships hovering around.

It works. Freeze it. Good luck.

@@MarcsRandomVids i did the first method just without such a machine. I rubbed of the plastic with a knife and a lighter now i can see the top of the silver button. What do i do from here? I can't pull it out? Do i need to cut the silver head off?

@@julianv2122 it should have just separated since the plastic is no longer being held by the silver "nail". Whatever you try....freeze it. Then crack the unit in half,,quickly!

@@julianv2122 or,,,keep heating the knife up and continue removing as much plastic as possible .

Quite a few people wrote the same thing, ela. What are they calling it, I'll edit the title to make it easier to find. This was louder than you might think. Depending on how strong the wind was really changed the sound.

@@MarcsRandomVids for my class it was just called the mystery I had to use the text to find it

@@Kevin-bh4og yes I searched readworks and found it. Thanks

@@MarcsRandomVids ok nice

same

I was just poking around there a couple of days ago because I never hooked up my vacuum hoses. The port is super hard to get to. Maybe use a small makeup mirror and flashlight to see into the hole. I had to wedge my arm up behind the box to have someone feed me the opposite hose while I tried plugging it in. I thought I was going to have to live under there, my arm was stuck so bad. Maybe...loosen all the nuts to almost off, on the firewall side and possibly tip the box . I'm not sure if that will work. Be careful the tubes don't loosen up at their solder joint.

@@MarcsRandomVids Thanks. Fortunately the seats and the dashboard are out allowing plenty of room. However, I have to remove the front RH fender to get to the lower heater hose. Once the plenum is out, I will get the chance to reconnect the ground strap and the hose in question. I suppose that will be easy with the plenum out, correct?

Yes, it is easier to do everything with the heater box out. When installing it, put the white hose and the repaired hose back on before you mount the box.

@@MarcsRandomVids I was able to install the white hose with the box in place. I am trying to see what are my chances of installing the hidden yellow line hose before having to remove the fender and then the box.

If you want, buy a very small diameter plastic vacuum tube and install it in the hose to diaphragm...then connect the yellow to the vacuum tube,,possibly by using rubber hose of the same diameter. It isnt correct looking but who will be looking behind the dash

I'm glad it helped

yes,,i had a section of pipe that i used. it just didnt work at all. on a forum members advice, i called a machinist he recommended and he said there was a chance the groove wasnt as deep as it should be. Unless maybe its a 301T block thing...like the different litter sizes that parts houses dont realize and sell the basic set. i ended up using a knock off viton seal. i have my fingers crossed there are no drips yet.

yeah that plastic tooth gear wears and the remnants probably fall into the oil pan. the new set had hard to read laser markings for the positioning marks. 2x i installed it wrong and wondered why i couldn't get tdc to line up.

i wont bad mouth the first guy who rebuilt it..but he did a very poor job. money i didnt need to waste. so i sent it to "damper doctor" and was 120% satisfied with his rebuild. definitely worth sending one to him.

@@MarcsRandomVids Damper Dr., huh? I know the aftermarket replacement SFI balancers are extremely pricy. I see you're on the 301 Garage forum. (So am I). Have they specified the 301T balancer being different, than the std N/A 301? I have an 80 301T, I want to rebuild, and replaced the balancer with another 301, (cause I gave the original to a friend). But not sure if a "turbo" motor balancer is different. So did you R/O the rebuilt balancer, and see better results?

@@joequillun7790 the balancer on 301 engines are, turbo or n/a, are externally balanced. You cant use another pontiac motors balancer. That's why the crank has no counterweights. Many years ago (1990?) I broke a balancer on my first tta. I went to the junkyard and found a random 301 balancer and put it on and didn't notice any issues. I believe the balancer, crank and flywheel should be balanced as a unit. I think the 301 flywheel is specific also. If you have a spare balancer, contact damper doctor and send it. I didnt check it when I got it back besides eyeballing it because it looked so professionally done.

@@MarcsRandomVids you're right in that the 301motors are externally balanced, and the balancers and flywheel/flexplates are specific to the 301 engines, and are not compatible with traditional Pontiac V8s, or vice versa. The crank has no counterweights, cause the engineers designed it that way, for fuel mileage considerations, (and probably cost also) hence the reason for externally balancing. I'm still skeptical on the entire thought process of this eng., but understand the intent. Thank you for the Damper Doctor recommendation. Didn't know such a company existed.

thank you! even my wife who wants the car gone was excited to see it start. lol. i didnt take any videos of the engine rebuild, i didnt even think of it. but i like watching those sped up videos of a project..everything in fast forward..i could have done the same.

Thanks!

Thanks!

You can find another geared shaft if it is causing that much of an issue.. if teeth are missing you can try fixing it yourself by drilling and tapping screws extremely close and the filing them to the shape (try forbfun?). Also, you should find out what is causing the runout,,a bent spindle, bad bearing, messed up spindle end...or like mine was, the chuck needed to be cleaned and then seated better. Then I drove it on hard with a hammer and block of wood. No more runout. But,,,because these bearings are obsolete I wouldn't spend too much money trying to repair it. I would find a same Era buffalo , atlas or Rockwell dp. The damage on the gear may mean the dp was abused and there is more damage elsewhere. Take it apart to find out.

@@MarcsRandomVids thank you for the reply and the advice. Much appreciated. I took it apart and cleaned up all the parts with acetone today. Besides for the damaged teeth, the only other thing that stuck out was the bearing up at the very top. The shaft doesn't seem to be bent surprisingly. I will try to replace the top bearing and then I will do what you had mentioned and see what happens. I'll let ya know how it goes when I'm done. Thank you again.

If you go to "old woodworking machines org" there are more knowledgeable people than me, also a for sale section. You may find a bearing or other parts. If the spindle is worn at the bearing, there are ways to fatten it up. I used lacquer thinner on the bearings and removed all old grease. Then cleaned them with water, dried them and repacked them.( Laquer thinner does the best job cleaning things I think). Good luck

@@MarcsRandomVids I will certainly check that site out. I would love to find parts for this thing. As far as I can tell, it is still all original. I ordered a Wen 10in Drill Press to use while I'm waiting to restore the WT

Thanks. I hope it helps you with your car.

I'm not sure but , I think it all depends on how you plan on deleting your a/c. Leaving the cabin(under dash) a/c box and using a purchased plate and delete box...you might leave the larger heater core. If you buy a heater only cabin box it won't mate to a delete box and ducting will change. I also think using a delete box will require a different blower. Your best bet will be searching on transamcountry dot com forum. Why go backwards though? Are you removing it for a sleeker look or weight reduction? Just curious

trex117427 I’m removing it for both of those reasons. Plus the car sat for a bunch of years so I didn’t expect it to work nor did I plan on using it with my new setup. Thank you for your response though I will look into it.

The gap is supposed to be there, the bracket actually keeps the gap there when screwed in place. As for the reason.....i heard it is there in case an object falls down in the duct,,its easier to get. Maybe it also acts like a venturi and sucks air in along with the air from the blower for more circulation.

If you notice towards the end how I installed it, it is in reverse. Put a wrench on the middle piece and brace it against the body, then use a punch in the clamp holes and hit it to unscrew...its tight. There is a special tool for it but this method works.

I'll take them eating the car cover over parts of the car any day. Damn that sucks! They moved into my attic, back then, and I took out about 7 in one day. I have a new cover at this moment still in the box that I don't want them to tear up...i was thinking of ordering coyote urine repellent...but since they never saw one I figure they wouldn't be scared if it.