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@georgejetson1923 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Absolutely agree! It was definitely bad! Lots of windows out there, so I had them all open for the burn ins.

@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 I'm sure you figured it out by now but a good indicator of when the paint is cured is the whole stove should turn an ash grey color from the dark black when new. I also installed a damper just above the collar and it made all the difference in the world, (these used to come with a damper in the collar). I now get longer burn times and a hotter stove. Once I get a good fire going I set my damper at about a 40 degree angle and crack open the front door about a 1/4" to let in a bit more air and it works like a charm. Once you figure out how to operate this stove it works great. It is not a set it and forget it stove like the manual would leave you to believe unless you want a cooler stove that smolders. The only negative about this stove is the door design, it chokes it down too much and is not designed right, so I just compensate by cracking the door open a bit, I usually put the latch in a position that when you close the door the latch stops it in front from closing all the way on the outside and this gives you about a 1/4 " gap and then put a brick in front to prevent door from swinging open and It works as it should. The air intake should be at the bottom not the top and should have a sliding adjuster, it is how the original stoves were made. You have to be able to adjust air in and smoke out to get the desired results so by putting a damper in the stack and cracking the door open you can achieve this.. I have to say this for anyone reading this..under no circumstance should you ever leave your home with the door open even a little, make sure it is closed and latched 100% when unattended, the process I mentioned above is only when you are in the presence of the stove.Happy and safe burning.

@georgejetson1923 There is absolutely a learning curve with this stove! I agree 100% about the door design. I do not like the inlet at all. No control and too restrictive, as you stated. I'm toying with the idea of adding some type of an extra, adjustable inlet under the one on there. We'll see... I installed my damper as an "insurance policy" with this and other stoves. I had no intention of using it with this unit except for emergency purposes, but I have found you almost have to use it to get the desired burn and length of burn time one would expect.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 with a little bit of modification this can be made into the great stove it used to be before the bureaucrats ruined it.

@@georgejetson1923 Indeed!

@charlese.prospecting6627 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Overall, Yes, stove burns pretty good at this point. If you watched the original video, I posted and pinned a comment on that video regarding where I sealed the back of the stove board and a correction. Check that out. After that, it does pretty well. Control over the fire and output is everything to do with load size. There's alot of room inside that stove. It's deceiving. It doesn't take much wood at all for a good warm fire. Don't over fill it.

@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 awesome. Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it very much.

@amealnet2495 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Thanks for the suggestion! I appreciate it!!

@JusticeScott-o5u Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting !! I do believe the 3" pipe could probably be the most likely cause here. I personally think it is too restrictive to get a proper draft going for the stove. My biggest fear with that would be excessive creosote build up and risk of fire to your trailer. Also, the possibility of co gas in your living space. I believe if you can figure out a way to get a proper 6" chimney set up, you'd be better off all around.

@bcltoys Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Yes, I've had that suggestion made a few times. Probly shoulda tried it out....

@TracyPerkins-e4d Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Agreed on the chimney cleaning. Probly have to remove the black stove pipe and put a trash bag around it to catch the creosote? Have you had any luck tightening up the door latch nuts on the inside? I've had to do that once. A lot of people complain about that baffle. Good luck!

@ronniebroussard3751 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I appreciate it! I believe you are correct with sealing the gap at the rear. I looked at other displays, and they all have the gap. I end up removing the seal that I installed on mine after seeing the others. Thinking I jumped the gun on that one. Thinking about it, I think its to ensure enough heat gets directly to the chimney to keep a good constant draft. I've seen the priming thing in several ways. It does seem to work from the times I've needed to do it in the past. Thanks for your kind words in your comment! I definitely appreciate it and your suggestions!!

@fansandvintage2008 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I'm guessing so! After everything was cleaned up, it looked pretty much like pot metal had become popular. At least, that's what it appeared to be.

@lisalapoint7022 I'm not 100% sure for this stove, but I have seen it recommended for other stoves in the past.

@eijijivjiv Maybe 6 hours from starting a load to when no coals are left at all, using 1 large diameter log and 1 small diameter log. I'm guestimating though, as I have not actually timed a single load...

@eijijivjiv Maybe 6 hours from start to when no coals are left at all, using 1 large diameter log and 1 small diameter log. I'm guestimating, though, as I've not actually timed a single load from start to finish....

Watching this video with this stove sitting in my 3ºF garage in a box... need to do install!

@blakeharmer2558 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! You definitely do! Life is good with wood heat!

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! I can appreciate that you have your opinions... I will admit, after looking at other display models, I may or may not have jumped the gun on sealing the gap at the rear of the stove. After viewing other display models of this stove, it appears that gap may be intentional. Anyway, after seeing the other displays, I opted to remove the rope gasket seal that I installed from that gap. Took no time at all. 10 minutes, maybe... Tried the stove out some more. It actually did not change the outcome for me. I next tried out the grate that I featured in my second video. It helped out, in my opinion. I got what I considered better results. Higher flue temps being one. Never in either video did I complain about flue temps being too high. I actually wanted to see them higher to maintain a cleaner chimney. Too much tinkering? Not to me. I enjoy it. Great thing about this all is that it's my stove and my time. Doesn't bother me at all. Peruse the internet sometime for this stove. There is no shortage of negative reviews regarding burn issues/performance and quality for these stoves. In response to these reviews, I've seen a number of people state that they've destroyed or removed the guts (epa equipment) from these stoves. I did none of this nor suggested it. Nothing that I did is irreversible. I mean, I already said I removed the rope gasket I installed, and gosh, the grate just sits inside the stove. It's not hard to remove or install it at all. Neither of my videos was to advise or suggest anyone do anything particular to their personal units. I have simply shared what I opted to play around with on my stove, so no "advice" needs to be taken by anyone anyway. If you'll recall, I actually stated in my video that I was making these changes to see if the stove could be made to be a "really nice" stove for the price point, and to see if the negatives could be disproved. Take this all for what it's worth....

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 Then don't post something saying that you did all of these things to "fix" an issue when all you did was ruin the efficiency of the stove and cause more issues to which you still blamed the stove manufacturer. That is my only point, that people should not take any of the advice given in this video. And I would imagine that most negative reviews are based off of the same logic that you came up with. There is a reason why they provide directions. But go ahead and tinker around with something and give advice that could burn someone's house down. You didnt have to complain about higher flue temps, I saw that you were creeping up on too high of flue temps.

Again, I will state that I have zero issues with my flue temps. I am able to keep my temps well within the recommended "good green" range on my thermometer for extended periods of time on a load. However, I am fine if it does get to the high end of the "green good" zone from time to time. Warmer flue temps mean less creosote, and less risk of a chimney fire. I'm sure I don't have to explain that to an expert such as yourself... Stove works and runs quite well at this point. Nice clean, clear moderate heat waves after start up. Quite efficient, contrary to what you believe. I Always burn in cycles (as recommended) and use maybe 6-8 logs (varying sizes) during the course of an all-day run. Keeps the porch about 75°. *Replaced a poorly cast door - (fix) Oh wait, manufacturer defect, but I was blaming.... *Sealed the flue collar to the stove to prevent flue gas/smoke leakage-(fix) Oh, gee just like my main, much more expensive epa stove came with. Hmmm......🤔 *Added lock washers to leg and hearth hardware to prevent loosening - (fix) (maybe upgrade) *Added grate - (improvement) OH wait, not improvement, destroyed stove and efficiency with that. See above.... Let me also be very clear here, I offered no actual real advice to anyone in either video, but did make sure to mention manufacturer's recommended usage a few times though, as well as my beliefs in keeping the epa equipment intact to burn clean, contrary to others beliefs that I have seen. Again, I merely shared my experience with the stove I bought and what I did to mine. Thanks again for your opinions, your interest, and your enthusiasm 👍!

@JAEUFM Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Outside air would be nice. The stove does not have any connection like that, so you'd have to be real creative.

@Eagles400 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! So, unfortunately, there is no easy way. The stove has to come apart to get that new board in there. It's not complicated, but you'll need a second set of hands when reassembling it. You may also consider while you have it apart to add or replace sealant around all the seams to ensure no leaks. I did with mine as it was not sealed well from the factory. Just an extra thought...

@chriscurtis1578 Wow! Thanks so much for the story and advice! I would love to get ahold of an old stove, as you mentioned one day. I'm sure the quality far surpasses anything on the market today. Thanks for sharing! I appreciate you Watching 👀 and commenting!!

@FansOfThePast Thank you very much! Super fun project! Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!

@CorenaRiley Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! A couple quick questions for you. How tall is your chimney? Do you have any turns or angles in your chimney? When you first open the stove b4 lighting the fire, do you feel cold air blowing in through the open stove door? Also at the front and top of the inside of the stove, how big is your gap between the fiber board and cast iron? If it's not big enough or there is something above the fiber board blocking the smoke path, that could be a problem also.

@fuzz1500 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! It's a fun little tractor 🚜!!

@Pablo453 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I started to have this same idea 💡 after visiting a few stores that have this stove on display. They all have the same gap at the rear, and I'm thinking I should not have sealed it up. This could be an issue.... Thanks for bringing this up!!

@sixlegsnimrod Wow!! Great info!! Love your attitude and approach!! I have always loved the look of this style of stove, and I felt the same way you did reading all the negative reviews. I had to have one as well! I thought these folks have got to be exaggerating or whatever.... So there definitely is not enough draw around that board at the top. So I decided to do some similar mods as you have. It's crazy that you posted your comment when you did because I am currently working on very similar concepts. The stove is disassembled right now. I took the board out and am going to replace it with steel and fasten it to the tube assembly as you did. This should allow extra clearance above for airflow for the smoke to exit. I also am adding an alternate air intake in the door. I bought a replacement draft wheel part for their 1869 pot belly stove model and will be installing that with 3 holes behind to control air intake and secondary burn 🔥. Then, I'll block the current opening that is there. I am also re-sealing the entire stove with new, slightly thicker rope gasket around all the joints since it is apart. I don't know if your version is sealed like that or with furnace cement? This version is all rope gasket. Like that idea 💡 personally. I won't be using the grate after the reassembly. I totally agree with you on the cleaning being extra unnecessary work. Also, as I said in my original video, I installed a pipe damper. Mine did not come with one. Funny how your model had one, in a fixed position, and then they eliminated it altogether for my version. Probly attempts to idiot proof them maybe?? I never could understand why they would lock your version in place.ade zero sense to me. Especially for when you start your initial fire for the day. You need that chimney to heat up quickly.... Hey, thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! I appreciate it!!

yes my stove had roping all around the box but nothing on the door and a rather large gap at the bottom of the door. The damper was there but fixed by a couple of protrusions that locked it at about 30 degrees or so open. easy to change. Is there anything on that one the blocks the flue at all, besides the narrow channel between the fireboard and the top of the stove? I suppose they are epa tested at the fixed burn rate so they lock the air flow at that rate, which seems to make them smokey at anything but controlled laboratory type conditions. I enjoy tinkering with these low quality cheap china stoves and old wood stoves to make them perform better.

@sixlegsnimrod The stove board and narrow channel are the only things blocking the flue. The stove board is 1/2" thick, and the channel at its most restricted point, which is right b4 the entering the flue, is maybe 3/4"?... Not much of an opening. Granted, it's 3/4"x the maybe 9" width of the channel? Anyhow, I'm a tinkerer also. Can't help myself. I have an old pot belly coal stove I tinker with to get it to burn wood slower and more efficiently as well. Real-world application is the real test with any product. There's no perfect or ideal lab conditions out here, and there are probably no 2 installations identical. That's OK though. This is fun for me, and obviously you too! 😁

@LeonMurphey Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! I agree with you on the burn concept of a cigar. Have definitely tried starting fires from the front, as you mention. The problem is that it burns well until about half way to the back of the box, and then it's as if the airflow can't get all the way to the back of the box and peters out... That's what prompted me to use the grate in hopes of allowing a path to the rear of the stove. I think the design, with epa parts, expects the air to flow much further and in too many directions to be efficient...

@bryanjohnson8162 Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!

@jimdrake-writer Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I appreciate it!! So I got pretty lucky with mine. It was a little "sticky" but came out with little force. I've heard that some can be a pain.... I just kept working mine back an forth slowly and steadily til it finally slid out.

@@pedrothomas4944 🤣 Thanks for noticing! I didn't notice....

@stevenhudson3482 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I had the same thing happening at first. The fire would start great, then smolder. Not enough air flow, I presume. Super frustrating! I pulled my stove pipe apart and looked up my chimney and found tons of creosote after only a dozen or so fires. Cleaned it all out and started exploring options to not have that again. Like using a grate. I also read somewhere else that another person with this stove drilled a hole in the baffle below the flue collar to help airflow. Don't know the size or details. I don't remember specifics even being given. People have definitely found ways to improve these stoves. Be cautious ⚠️ if you get the grate. Keep some ash under it to protect the bottom of the stove. Mine appears to have sagged slightly in the center. I followed the manual for a little bit, trying different things, which it said to build the fire directly on the hearth. I'm not sure if it got to hot that way or with the grate. EPA messes a lot of stuff up! They need to worry about more serious things than wood stoves and cow farts....

@brianmatthews4323 Thank you!! Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I appreciate that. I know alot of folks say never put heat lamps in a coop, but when the temps get down to single digits, you gotta get creative... I'm fortunate to have a large space for my birds, which definitely helps lower the risk also. Thanks again!

@robb15431 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I'm finding out that this is the popular vote on how to use this stove. That epa junk did nothing for this style of stove...

@rlwoods61 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! 😆 🤣 AGREED!!

@mitchellwilson9131 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! It has gone pretty good so far. I did end up removing my board at the top as well. I checked on my chimney and had alot of creosote after not more than a dozen or so fires. So removed the baffle and it burns far better and keeps the chimney hotter and cleaner now. Keep some ash at the bottom with your grate to help keep your bottom plate from warping.

@ImOutdoorzManTv Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I haven't had to deal with anything like that at this point. However, from what I have run into, that board is pretty well sandwiched in up there. I believe if you can order the board from US Stove, or Amazon or something like that, it appears you will have to take the top of the stove off to replace it. I couldn't even get mine to slide forward or backward to try to close the gap at the back of the stove.

I did the same thing. I could not find the board from US Stove so I ordered another board which was much larger. I then cut the board to size with a utility knife. The stove works just fine. Do not burn the stove without the board. Temperatures leaving the stove into the chimney pipe will be extremely hot. I know this for a fact because i tried it. I put a temp gage on the stove just to keep tabs on things.

@ScottAllan-g1c Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Good thinking!! Thanks for the heads up!

Woodman's parts plus sells the baffle kit for this stove with how to instructions to install.

@rlwoods61 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! Good call!! Would probly support the bricks better as well. Thanks!

@sweetdarlanddan Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I agree with what your saying! Through government is good at messing up alot of things! The more I use this stove, the more I'm understanding the negative reviews. May have to remodel this unit to be more yoursthe old ones. 😆

@on4acres Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I'm glad you asked! It didn't occur to me to talk about it in the video. The actual floor under the brick is a 5" concrete slab directly on top of the earth/ground, so there is no real concern for r value below the stove. Nothing flammable under the brick. I like the look of brick and thought it goes nice with the stove, in my opinion.

@DebraSands-i7s You're welcome! Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting! If you decide to, you won't be disappointed. There is nothing like the cozy warmth on a cold day from a wood stove! One important recommendation, though, do not skimp on the chimney. It will make or break your whole system.

@DeanKaehele-xq1iz Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! You really painted a cool picture there! That's originally what I wanted, was an older style like yours. Hard to find used ones close now that haven't been abused, overtired, left outside to rot, etc..... Keep enjoying that stove! There's nothing like the smell of a good wood fire 🔥!

@kariesistansteckend2196 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! I totally agree with your statement. This works very well in my large epa stove, which is wider than it is deep, and is indeed exactly how i burn in that stove. Air has no problem reaching the back of the firebox in that stove. However, the stove in the video is narrow and deep, and It appears to me with it's orientation, that fresh incoming air from the door inlet struggles to get to the rear of the stove. The grate was more or less intended to give the air a clear path to the rear of the firebox, as the air needs to travel to the rear first and then come all the way back to the front. Then it then has to go around the baffle at the top of the stove b4 exiting to the flue. With the logs directly on the hearth, it seems to hinder that airflow to the rear, causing the front half of the logs to burn very well, but not the back half of the logs. I have experienced a time or 2, half burned logs at the back of the box the next day. Long after the fire went out... So, my intent was actually more about getting an air circulation path through the entire space, not just the front area of the stove.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 Ok, I understand your intention. I think it's because the firewood is too wet if the wood burns at the front but goes out at the back. Dry wood should burn slowly from front to back, extending the burning time without all the fuel burning in the oven at the same time. That's why I think it's intentional that the air comes to the front of the wood first and then it burns slowly from front to back and then a layer of embers is created over all of them and when this layer of embers has burned over half, you put new firewood in again. If you now move the air backwards, too much wood will burn at the same time and the exhaust gas temperature will rise unnecessarily and the efficiency will decrease because the heat disappears through the chimney. If the firewood is definitely dry, i.e. below 12% moisture and it still runs out in the oven, then the solution with the grid is probably the best way to make the oven usable.

@kariesistansteckend2196 Yes, thank you. Wood 🪵 is in great condition. I never burn wet or unseasoned wood. I like to stay 1-2 years ahead of a burning season, depending on species of wood. I believe the concept of the stove is what you describe, to be burned front to back for longer, more thorough burns. I'm not convinced the new epa tech the manufacturer has incorporated into this classic design is paying off. The design of days past fed the air in from the bottom under the feed door straight to the fire. Now it comes in through the door about 2/3 up and must make a 90° turn downwards, then another essentially 90° turn towards the load of wood and fire. Not as smoothe. I give them props for keeping a classic/nostalgic design alive, but I think maybe the epa mandates might have possibly complicated it too much. Probly why I read so many comments where folks state that they tear all the epa equipment out of the stove. 😆 Anyhow, this is why I insist on tinkering with the stove. I've always like the stove style, and I'd like to see if some tweaking here and there can make it a really nice stove with the equipment in it.

He completely sealed the small air gap at the back top of the stove in his first video and now wonders why no air gets to the back. If he left the stove alone and just made a fire in it like the stove company intended than the stove and wood would burn just fine. Too much tinkering in my opinion and he screwed up the efficiency of the stove.

@Outdoors2024-r1q Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! I can appreciate your opinions.... In fairness, after looking at other display models of this stove, I will admit that I may or may not have jumped the gun sealing the gap. After seeing other units on display, I got to thinking that the gap was intentional and not an oversight on my particular stove. I did try restoring said gap at that point. All I had to do was pull the rope gasket back out of the gap. It took no time at all. I tried the stove again. ~It did not change my outcome.~ I also opted to try the grate shown in my second video. Too much tinkering? To me? No. The cool part is, it's mine to tinker with. The minor things I did to it are completely reversible if and when I choose, per the example above. Not to mention the simplicity of pulling the grate back out. If you peruse the internet, you'll find that there's no shortage of negative reviews out there on this stove regarding burn issues/performance and quality. As a result, a good many people have stated that they've gone as far as to remove the guts (epa equipment) from their stoves. Not the case here. I'm certainly not telling anyone what to do, either. I'm simply sharing what I've personally opted to play around with. I stated in my video that I was curious about seeing if the stove could be a "really nice" stove for the low price point, countering all negatives I've seen out there. Take it all for what it's worth.....

@Jarvis30 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting.! You are correct about the bricks. I discovered that they also hinder proper airflow through the stove. I made an update video explaining that I removed them altogether. I understand what you're saying about being airtight. However, they incorporated the secondary burn tubes into the stove to make for a cleaner burn, and I could be wrong, but I don't believe they function well if too much alternative air is coming in. In my large airtight, plate steel epa stove, those tubes really don't start lighting off to full potential until you start closing the main air inlet down, forcing air to draw through them. Anyhow, I appreciate what you're saying. I just really wanted to play around a bit with it and see if it could be a better little stove than folks claim it to be. I see a ton of negative remarks out there about it. I understand it will never live up to the high-end modern epa stoves, but hey, why not see what I can get out of it....

@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 I hear ya. Gotta tinker sometimes 🤪

@Jarvis30 Definitely. I can't help myself... 🤣

The Vogelzang is the same shape,form, dimensions. No seals. Removable cook disks on the lid. Lid turns out in one piece allowing large logs. The flat space below the door slides out allowing ventilation. Big heat, long log burn.

@heavysmoke54 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Sounds nice and simple. Do you use alot of wood 🪵?

@stevekizewski6956 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! An elbow can slow things down but shouldn't really cause you trouble as long as you have a tall enough chimney to draft properly. Couple questions though. Do you have a damper installed in the pipe? Do you have a slight incline in the pipe past the elbow? I assume you have a second elbow outside? How tall is your chimney?

Might be opening the door to fast

@uncle_creepy2743 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Nice idea 💡!

Yup I use the. Grate as well much improved. I did pull my baffles out My door is different from yours only open holes

@SimplyLesa Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! The grate definitely helps! I've seen your model b4 with the holes in the door. I think that was the model right b4 mine. Hows your burn 🔥 without the baffle?

@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 without the baffle was the only way to prevent major soot build up. I actually contacted the company for advice n they suggested epa items removal for best use.

In my area, on my low fixed income I cannot guarantee my wood is well seasoned and it's pinion and juniper- potential for creosote build up. I do burn creosote destroyer as well.

@spiet7380 Thank you! Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! It's been a great stove for me! I see people knock it cuz it's a lower end stove, but it's been great 👍. I think you'll like it!