Відео

Hi. If you read the description of the video you will find all the information to remove the red dot. You have to complete Test 9 by following the steps and then pressing the mileage reset button for 4 seconds.

@@23tlujan23 many thanks!

I guess you can’t use a higher mileage replacement cluster than the original coding plug.

Thanks!

All that comes from the fresh air flaps located on the sides of the blower motor. Stuff falls in when they open up. Over time it adds up. Things like leaves get in the cowl area below the windshield, then they work their way into the car through those flaps.

Saab removes the lift mounts. You can see them on eSaabparts.com as part numbers 12795716 and 12789327. What I did was go to a junkyard and found them on a Chevy cobalt with the 2.0 echotech engine. Same engine setup. Saabusaparts seems to have the rear lift online but I would call and verify first. Hope this info helps.

@@23tlujan23 Thanks, I guess I will just run a tow strap around the whole thing. I don't need to lift it, just hold it in place while I lower the subframe to get at the steering rack.

Hey, Joshua. So you took the old cluster out, removed the code plug, placed that original code plug into the new cluster that has higher mileage, installed it, and there is no red dot? I have heard that this could happen, but I believe doing step 9 will fix that. If not, I would probably swap all back to the original, maybe do step 9, and start over again. Let me know if it works. 😃👍

Hi. The issue was that there was a little metal rod that disconnected from the lock and solenoid so it wasn’t coming unlocked no matter what.

@@23tlujan23 I believe the sensor prevents the trunk lock from unlocking. If the fuse is pulled, the sensor will allow the lock to unlock. Haven't tried it, just thinking about it.

@@JB91710 is that not same if the fuse has blown?

@rogerlovatt2025 At this point, I can't remember why that helps.

Sorry about that. I didn't get good enough footage. I took the replacement engine and installed a new water pump, thermostat and all hoses. I swapped over the turbo and the fuel rail and injectors as the replacement engine was from a 2006 and this one was a 2007. They have different fuel rail and injectors. The install went smooth just like it came out. The car made it's initial run from AZ to Washington and back! The ECU just went out and I got a replacement and cloned it. I still have the car and it's been great!

@23tlujan23 I'm going to a swap of a 07-to 07 so i have a questionn is it necessary to take off the front end and headlights to remove engine

@23tlujan23 do u have a email or Facebook to keep contact just incase i need directions and help when doing this Processing of engine swap

@@edgarzuniga8504 No it isn't necessary, but made it a little easier to work around.

@@edgarzuniga8504 No problem. Email me whenever: tracylujan@yahoo.com

Wow! For an automatic this works. I'd suggest removing the crank bolt. For a manual transmission it won't work because of the clutch. Hope that helps!

No it wasn't necessary. I took the lights out because I sanded and polished them. I took the front bumper off because it's easy and gave better access to radiator. You can leave the AC compressor and lines hooked up as well. This was done on an automatic as a manual would be tougher because of the clutch. Thanks.

Yeah one other thing to add is that you have to jack the trans up and make sure the idle shaft plate is in the right spot when you put the motor back in lol else it becomes real stuck and hard to line up again

Yes! Having an automatic made this easier. Wish it was a manual though. You may be better off dropping it down as that's the easiest to bring them both together or follow the SaabWISOnline and take transmission out then pull the motors

How did you get on with pulling out engine and transmission? I have an 06 manual with a duff cylinder. If I had a post lift then I would be dropping the engine and subframe... but I don't so it's the old fashioned way for me!

@@jamesmacdonald3090 I pulled my engine and transmission as an assembly out of the top. Wasn’t bad at all. You will need a engine leveler through. I’m putting together a video on it.

@@jth1987leb Look forward to seeing the vid.

It could be done in a long day or two shorter ones. First day I removed the bumper, lights, condenser, radiator, intercooler, starter, all electrical connections and marked them. Second day I removed all bolts and lifted it out. This works on an automatic as a manual has the clutch that requires more work. If I did it again, I would remove the crank bolt to give me a little more room.

I haven't seen or heard of being able to use a PC to program a new code plug. I believe you could install the new cluster and the new code plug and follow the procedures to program the new code plug

Hi, Nick. No I didn't. I left it all together. Only had to remove the starter to access the flywheel bolts. If I did this again, i would remove the crank pulley bolt as that is what got hung up when pulling straight up. This is an automatic so it was easier to pull than if a manual.

Have you done any work on it recently like changing bulbs? Sometimes the wire loom that goes to the trunk lid can have broken wires that cause issues. Also, run a Cluster Test: ua-cam.com/video/wFANuPz9Lkw/v-deo.html Steps: 1. Put the key into the ignition switch but Key off (engine off) 2. Push and hold the Mileage reset button 3. Turn the key to ignition switch position 1 (engine off) when numbers are shown in the LCD display 4. Release the reset button and the instrument cluster will run some test In a worse case scenario, if you verified the fuses, the cluster board may be going/bad. You would then need another cluster to swap in and do as I did in the video.

i have the same problem on my 325is did u just swap it to another one?

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!

I'll see if I can find it. I used to have it on VHS or dvd. Just need to find it and convert it.

Yes. The first one was based on Fast Food restaurants.

@@23tlujan23 I don't know why it said dirty dining iii at the beginning of the story

What part numbers are your original and the one you found? Thx.

@@23tlujan23 62118357778 original The one I found 62118375052. Last 4 numbers are different

I believe the original one is OBDI(no code plug) and the one you found is OBDII (has code plug). Hopefully it's from the same engine size. The 4 cyl vs 6 cyl won't swap as RPM gauge will be off. You won't hurt anything by trying it. You may get ABS light and may need to add an adapter cable. Here's a good thread: www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2088880-Instument-cluster-compatibility

Yes. Basically the solder on the display is not making good contact anymore. There is a way to cut open the back and reflow solder on it. There is a write up on that. The way I did it was just easier.

Here are a couple of links with pictures to show one way it is done: www.repairdynamics.com/Instrument_cluster_repair.pdf sites.google.com/site/josephshearersprofessionalsite/in-the-news/bmwe36odometerfix

@@23tlujan23 Thank you soooo much! The first link did not work, but the second one did and it has the pdf in that site.

@@23tlujan23 I just saw this video (although I don't understand German) It seems that here could be another reason besides the cold soldering for this intermittent odometer lighting. I am not sure if they simply replaced that LCD or taken it off and back on again! I appreciate if you can advise on this since I don't want to re-solder the cold joints only find out that there is another issue with this LCD screen. ua-cam.com/video/1If2qTyfVIA/v-deo.html

That was a weird video. Not sure either how they fixed it. Because you say you tap on it and it comes on sometimes, that's what leads me to believe it's a cold solder issue. You could check the light bulbs first as that is the easiest thing They are the two small light brown light holders on the back of the cluster. If you open up the cluster and hook it back up to the car and press on the front of that display and if it lights up, it is most likely cold solder issue. Or, remove the plate and stick it back on and plug it in to see if it lights up. Here are a couple of other videos showing how to break it down all the way and what the cold solder looks like. facebook.com/BavtekInc/videos/1068793229893562/ ua-cam.com/video/qgpqAkXYhaU/v-deo.html Let me know what happens as I'm invested now. :) Thx

Hello. I have attached the full instructions under the description of the video. They should be easy to follow. Thanks!

Nice! Just listened to it. I'm up late too! :) Can't wait to here the others on your channel. Hope you make it big! Thx

@@23tlujan23 ❤️

If you're doing this it would need to be an OBDII cluster. What swap are you wanting to do? What are the part numbers? I believe this swap can be done with any 95-98 325i 328i cluster.

@@23tlujan23 its an e36 325is, my original part number is 616 058 3105. I bought one online and its part number is 616 058 3223 with less mileage. Will this one I bought online work?

Can you verify they both have a code plugs? I believe the one you bought is for a 318i and it won't work. There's a difference between 4cyl and 6 cyl in the cluster as well.

@@23tlujan23 both do have the code plug on the left. I can get the original part number, just need to spend another $150 at my local scrap yard . Think I'll just get that, it has 269000km. My original has 300000km. So I will not spend any time to swap the code plug.

That makes sense. I wish you luck. Thanks for watching.

Yes. I wish it was manual.

@@23tlujan23 thinking of taking mine out the top but don't know if there will be enough room with the clutch

I think it would be the same. My suggestion would be to remove the crank pulley bolt as that is what gave me trouble. I was lucky enough to be at a junkyard where the engine was out and transmission left behind so I could see what I was dealing with. Have you looked at the Saab WIS online to review how to replace the clutch? That may give some insight.

@@23tlujan23 Do you know maybe if it is possible to swap a Automatic to an Manual?

@@shakalpb1164 It is possible but may not be cost effective as there is a lot of wiring for the automatic. You may be better off selling your automatic and buying a manual.

Hi! Is your BMW an E36? I'm not sure about other BMWs code plugs.What year and model is yours? Thanks

@@23tlujan23 yeah E36 328i 1995

@@One46ix It's possible it doesn't if it's an OBDI car. If you have the instrument cluster out, do you have a model number on it? Starts with an 8. should be a tag on it. Also, what are the last 7 digits of your VIN so I can look up to see if it has one. Thanks

@@23tlujan23 yeah I've got it out and there isn't a port for it and I don't believe they are the original clocks perhaps it's because I'm in the UK

@@One46ix I'm sorry this didn't work for you. Hopefully you can figure it out. Lots of good info on bimmerforums.com and bmwfanatics.com and try realoem.com for part numbers. Thanks

The concern is that I believe if the M44B19 is a 4 cylinder and the M52b28 is from a 6 cylinder then the RPMs will be off. Also, if the M44B19 is an OBD I then you will have issues as I think the M52B28 is an OBD II. Here's a link to some good info: www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1163337-Ultimate-4-Cylinder-to-6-Cylinder-Swap-Thread

Unfortunately it won't. If the code plug is from a cluster with miles and you swap it in a cluster that's in kms, it will still show miles.

Awesome! Thanks for the advice!

Yes. That's how I knew the cluster had lower mileage. I got it at a junkyard then connected it in my car to make sure it had a lower mileage. Please review my Description to see how to reset the tamper light. Thanks.

Thank you for the quick answer. The junkyard have already checked the mileage so I will just swap the code plug right away. Should I turn the key to position 1 to read the mileage after that or should i start with running the test cycle where it checks all functions? Some say this test is what sets the mileage to the original. I must say there is a lot of conflicting answers regarding the e36 cluster swap, but hopefully this will work! Thank you for the help!

After swapping the code plug you can check it at position 1. It should show your correct mileage, but with the tamper light on just like in the video. Then do the Test 09 to remove the tamper light.

Looking forward to testing this, thanks. I assume you have a OBD2 car if you are from the US? Any clue if this will work when my car is OBD1? Europe got OBD2 later in the 2000s, so some say this might be a problem in regards to the cluster won't override lower mileage. I have no clue why though. I do have the same coding plug as you in my faulty cluster.

Hello. doing thus won't help the tach. The problem may be that the cluster from the 2000 6 cyl has internals like an e46. Also, going from a 4 cyl cluster to a 6 cyl cluster could be problematic in that the cluster is looking for a signal from a 6 cyl and can't read the 4 cyl info from the ecu. In reading forums about 2000+ Z3s, there are cold solder problems on the internals that cause the tach to read intermittently. That is something you could check. I hope this info helps. You may need to find a cluster from 96-98 4 cyl to swap with. Thanks.

So "Test 2" wouldnt fix that ? I was hoping itd find the dme and the 4cyl info

I was thinking more compatibility and functionality. BUT, I would try Test 2 to see what it is reading and change it to 4 cyl. If the tach doesn't respond, it may be compatibility or cold solder issue. Let me know how it goes. Thanks.

Will try it soon when I get home , worse case I just swap out the LCD and chrome rings into mine lol

I'm really not sure. This may need to be done at the dealer. What did your car say in kms before the swap and what does it say now that you have swapped them? Is it in Miles or KMs? Did the tamper light come on? It's the eeprom (EEPROM stands for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) in the cluster that stores the mileage as well as the code plug. When the eeprom and the code plug don't match, then the tamper light comes on. The eeprom rewrites the code plug when you do Test 09 under the description. I'm not saying it will work. If they don't match or the tamper light is on, maybe try Test 9. Do this at your own risk You may also have to deal with the MPGs readout or the oil temp read out when you do this swap. www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

John, all of my instruments are still working and have not had any issues. I have taken it off both ways by removing the wheel and wedging it out. I wedged it out by turning the key to the accessory position and then pulling the panel forward and turning the wheel to the left or right to help pull it out. I placed a towel over the top of the steering wheel so if the panel touched this during the process it wouldn't scratch. Thanks and good luck!

Thanks for your reply. I had sent a note about this to the folks at Pelican Parts and the owner sent back a note suggesting it was, many times, in the trunk lid. Any thoughts along those lines? Best regards, John Carter

That could be a problem as well. If you search E36 Trunk Wiring you will see many articles and some videos on wires becoming broken in the harness. Mine wasn't going black like yours. Just missing pixels. Pelican has an article on trunk wiring harness issues with pics. forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series/308129-e36-owners-check-your-trunk-wiring.htmlThanks

You should do a youtube video for that. I have the same problem as this guy did where only half the numbers show up.

Here are a couple of links with pictures to show one way it is done: www.repairdynamics.com/Instrument_cluster_repair.pdf sites.google.com/site/josephshearersprofessionalsite/in-the-news/bmwe36odometerfix

@@MrHavingfun68 Me too man, I have the same problem, only half numbers! Could you fix yours?

In my research, it can't be done. You can't go from a lower value cluster to a higher value cluster. Rewriting the value will keep the higher mileage. The cluster you get from a scrapyard must have a lower mileage than your original.