Відео

Hi, yer I guess you can but you need to know the rating of the wire you are using because it could be lower than the rating of the fuse and your wire will then become the fuse! Which you don’t want!! 😮 🔥 I have edited and amended this text.

Sorry I said that wrong. If you use a lower rating wire make sure your fuse is even lower that’s the general rule

Sorry I said it wrong I was tired when answered. Yer you could use a lower fuse but if your using a lower rated wire too just make sure it has a higher rating than the fuse. That’s the general rule.

That’s interesting and I’m really sorry to hear your outcome with exposure to mould. Last time I looked last year before fitted the sunken lights I did see the wood beams and they were stable and no different. Hopefully due to lack of moisture in turn due to good insulation and a vapour barrier. If there is a slight increase in mould on those beams then the vapour barrier definitely will stop any spores entering into the van atmosphere. As a professional decorator I use fungicidal solution to rid mould on existing walls but I have been known to use bleach and water if I had nothing to hand. I usually seal the walls with an alkaline resisting primer too once fully dry and the mould does not return so long as the house/room is kept warm or washed annually. The beams in the van were also sealed with alkaline resisting primer to seal the wood to stop re penetration. I’m not sure I showed that in the video but I did it because it was already contaminated. I did think bleach is as good as fungicidal solution though so I said bleach as it’s a product most people can get their hands on.

I personally use the diesel heater in my house for heating the house when the power goes out again last time I used it was when we had 36 inches of snow and we were out of power for 2 1/2 almost 3 weeks in the middle of nowhere to give you a idea everything in our house runs on electricity, well waterwoodstove wood furnace water boiler garage door doors heaters so yeah

Hi. If you circulate water to to transfer heat to the heat exchanger in the water tank then it will boil when the water pump is switched off yes. However, I’ve replaced the water with a waterless motor coolant used in rally cars. This means it can withstand temperatures up to 180’C When I turn the water pump off I have to also switch the diesel heater down to its lowest setting and the heater cast then only gets to 160’C. I have found 20 minutes into using the diesel heater to heat the air, I need to turn it down to its lowest settings anyway or it gets too hot in the van. The other benefit of using waterless coolant is that when it does gas up or produce bubbles above 180’C it is very gentle and benign. Whereas water would gas up and produce steam at 100° C and the reaction would be explosive!! My system is border line but does work well with the vents fitted to expel any bubbles produced when the circulation pump is switched off. I do have footage of a mock up using clear pipes to show exactly how the bubbles travel down the pipes and expel out the vents but I’ve not done a video on that. I’ve been busy travelling around the uk and Europe of late with my new girlfriend so finding time to make more videos has been tricky lol. There will be more coming though in the next few months on the hot water system as I’ve also rigged up a 12v 300w electric element in the hot water tank too which heated my water via solar and alternator in the hot summer when you don’t want put on the diesel heater at all lol

lol great idea but you can’t control the heating of the water. It will just get hotter n hotter. When I just need heat I can turn the water pump off so the tank won’t heat up any further. I can still use the hot air system to keep the van warm.

That’s already happened lol but luckily I carry two keys when I travel and one was in my friends possession as I give them one for safe keeping. I now carry spare batteries in the glove box for when it happens again. If you loose your key then that’s a different ball game but would be for anyone so i’m looking at a key safe under the van now instead!

I like your ingenuity but I need to avoid heating water to avoid calcification inside the water part of the heat exchanger. Hence using coolant to heat the water tank. New vid out in couple of months showing the set up in use in my van. Ive not done any more vids due to work/travelling and female commitments but now winter is upon us, im getting back on it! Thanks for the idea, a valid alternative.

It works fine and I will do a video soon enough but you do need the heating on so you have to crack a window open to control the interior if it’s a warmish day. Need to sort heating water via a solar panel for the warmer days so I don’t need to have hot air on also. For the cost it’s a small price to pay though

Hi, absolutely no problem what so ever. 21.6v is under factory conditions but you will never produce that, plus there are losses anyway in the wires to the ctek charger so you get my guarantee it’s safe. None liable guarantee though lol.

Maximum solar panel power 50-300 W (Max OCV solar panel 23V) Exceeding these parameters will damage your D250.

@@conandrum74 hello Thanks for taking the time to comment. You are correct in that my system will not damage the CTEK, as confirmed after direct contact with CTEK customer support.

Hello, as far as Im aware you can add much more than 700w of solar when adding the smart pass to the 250se. You see the D250SE on its own can only handle 20amps of solar (300w) but as soon as you add the smart pass the two combined can handle 140amps so you can add much more solar panels yes. However always be mindful of how many amps your batteries can handle on a fast charge as the more solar you have, the faster the charge as more amps will be delivered. The question you need to ask is to the battery manufacturer and i would ask them I have 600ah of a battery bank wired in parallel, can it handle a 700w or say equivalent of 50-60amp charge. Im my opinion you will breeze it but always check the charge ratings of the battery your charging too when beefing up your solar array. One more thing, only the D250SE can charge lithium so you must have that version. The other is an older versions.

@@diycampervanman1633 I think you are dangerously mistaken on this point. Maximum solar panel power 50-300 W (Max OCV solar panel 23V) Nowhere in the Smartpass manual does it state you can add more than 300W of solar to D250SE. Solar is handled by the D250SE and that is its max handling capability. Charging on the other hand is handled by the Smartpass 120S (when connected to D250SE) which can handle much more - 120A continuously (from the starter battery when an alternator is running) plus 20A max from D250SE (i.e. from its solar input). 20Amps is considered the MAX that the D250SE solar should ever have to handle. Correct me if I am wrong (I do not think I am).

You are absolutely correct I learnt after this vid was made. It’s very confusing to anyone new to this product. When I added my fourth 100w panel I wired it to a separate cheaper solar controller then wired direct into the mains line via a bus bar. It’s fine to have multiple chargers so long as your wiring and battery can handle the extra charge but 100w don’t produce that much more. Especially laid flat and yes the smart pass is to beef up power from your alternator generated power. One day I’ll do a sequel making this point how I got round adding the fourth panel as only three go through the D250se

@@conandrum74 correct as far as I can see too. I’ve emailed CTek for the definite answer but is a little confusing for novices.

​did you connect your additional mppt + output, to the bar going to your service battery + terminal? The - to common ground I suppose.

Yes, i dare say that’s what I did to get me started before I fitted a shunt and battery monitor. Now my monitor shows me exactly how much solar I’m getting when I get it. Also shows me what I’m getting from the starter battery when the alternator is charging. The maximum I have seen the solar bring in on 300watts of solar is 16amps. The alternator produces 19-20amps but combined it will max out at 25amps unless you fit a smart pass charger too giving you 145amp capability. But you would need a lot of solar panels to get to that capability.

Dpf I'd oy on diesel you mean lol

You know that never crossed my mind. Sometimes you need more heads than one to solve a problem. 👍🏻

Hi, I’m assuming you are talking about the pump? If so that is hanging on tie wraps of which really reduce the noise transfer. Also I have a shower cubicle and sink unit up against the the bulk head wall so virtually no noise can be heard anyway but I get what your saying yes.

@@diycampervanman1633 hi no I was talking about the heater itself, you said about putting rubber washers under the wooden feet that you made.

@@trickydicky6788 ah right, honestly the machine is quiet. Its the pump that’s noisy. You hear the air blowing out louder than the machine make a noise.

Yer that will do it lol 👍🏻

How many rpm is too much please 😂 knowing my luck I will try this and break it lol

@@pianoarrangement well deffo don’t red line it. I never thrashed it that hard for that long but a run up the motorway for 20 miles in say 5th not 6th with the odd 4th gear thrown in should blow the shit out. After doing all the stuff in the video of course lol. Depends how blocked. You can always have the dpf or cat cut out and chemically cleaned for a couple of hundred quid at a local garage so don’t worry too much about getting it right if all else fails.

@@diycampervanman1633 thanks so much for your reply, will fail on emissions that’s how I found this video but I don’t have a camper (I wish) it’s just a saxo lol I need to ask the garage if the cat itself was actually broken and if not I will get the oil and air filter changed and get that fluid stuff to try again. 🤞

Lol you now how to pass car is they way you treat woman in bed first slow than hard than slow than hard and hard and hard and hard like 100 speed your car will pass 100% try mate

I don’t own one so I cant say but it is a Swedish company so I would presume so. ? You can email them if you click on the link i provide and ask them direct. The email address is at the bottom of their web page. Interesting though as that reason never crossed my mind. Are the insurers stipulating that because lots of electrical items come from china? Mine never asked but I wouldn’t leave mine unattended to be on the safe side.

Ah it must have been taken off the platform, probably because its a rubbish machine but there is a much better one out there you can buy. I think they have seen my vid and decided to commission a company to make them for them exclusively because they discuss stuff I talked about like elevating the machine to access the water coolant pipes. They even made a bracket to do that so try these people instead, much better machine. When mine breaks down I’ll get one! Link as follows :- www.trales.se/produkt/luft-vatskeburen-dieselvarmare-7kw/

They will come back down in price before long. Have noticed price hikes too. In the uk it’s partly because of covid halting production coupled with delivery companies having to keep hold of their fleet because they can’t get enough new vehicles. When the recession hits, prices will drop.

@@diycampervanman1633 I hope so. I’ll be buying a used sprinter soon

Its the only way I could think of to make it work using it for a different purpose it was intended for. I do believe it is meant to have a pump as it was provided and has a pump on off switch on the control panel but it’s a cheap Chinese product of which don’t think they did any research as i tend to agree with yourself in some ways. Many thanks for your input. 👍🏻

@@diycampervanman1633 I agree! Chinese don't have much imagination or knowledge. In a termosifon, the water tank itself is the expansion tank. The whole system is made up of 2 hoses and a tank. That's al you need! Cheers!

Hi yes so long as you don’t drink the water but you should never anyway! Im considering switching to a copper or stainless steel coil. The next follow up vid will be out in a few months. Ive stopped editing vids for a rest during the summer as they are too time consuming but hang in there as the next few months I will have loads of vid showing the rest of the build and how it all works together.

@@diycampervanman1633 Thank you for the reply.

yes its an Mppt charger. Ive been getting upto 16amps on good sunny days. on average it sits on around between 5-10amps. I get 19-20amps from the engine battery when driving and upto 25amps combined at the same time. The machine only allows 25amps max but you can add the smartpass if you want more solar etc.. it is a dual battery controller too so it also keeps my starter battery topped up from solar and never goes flat. Ive not completed the van but well on the way and lots of new vids coming in the winter when i have more time, Ive got all the footage saved. I have been monitoring the use of the charger during my trips away and I can honestly say I have never had to plug the van into 240 hook up to recharge the battery all year, ever! however in scotland at christmas I had to hook up to keep an electric fireon but now I have a mini electric oven and microwave so I upgraded my battery to a big lithuim for faster charging and a bigger power bank. Thanks for watching, karl.

Hi, so sorry, the vent you refer to .Im not sure you mean the extractor one or the back one. These where the first things i bought before i even bought the van and are no longer listed on my ebay account. The back was a 50x50cm fiamma but i don’t recommend for a van as its not deep enough. Its more for a thing roofed caravan. However i still fitted it and made my own deeper surround for it using the spare shower pvc cladding. See link on instagram. instagram.com/reel/CiOXbf7jvja/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= The extractor is an unbranded 40x40 but again that listing has long gone although they are easy enough to source online. Sorry i cant help you.

I appreciate what your saying. As the build is taking forever i checked under the ceiling and through the vapour barrier a whole year later and it was stable. Nothing growing and bone dry so it looks like there is no further damage. I caught it early so the treatment has penetrated the wood deep enough. My experience as a decorator is so long as the water supply has been stopped the mould cant take a hold again. Thanks for comment you are correct in what you say.

The renogy compact where not available in the uk during the pandemic early days. So i settled for the ones you see me fitting as they where available but produced slightly less amps. However they work fine and keeps my battery topped up. I did buy the renogy inverter and lithium battery and ill do a vid on that. I totally recommend renogy products. As i say in the vid, renogy seemed to have superior connectors. I bought separate renogy connectors and put them on my system as they seemed much more water tight

@@diycampervanman1633 so using Renogy 2pcs 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (Compact Design) 2 will be ok with ctek 250se ???

@@andytawa1114 yes absolutely, you can go up to 300w with the D250se Don’t forget you need to wire in parallel.

@@diycampervanman1633 thxs for that i am using 2 panels i have bought the double ones so i can run in parallel

@@andytawa1114 ma il ctek arriva a 23 v, mentre i renogy da 100 arrivano anche a 24 volt di tensione massima?

My van should be finished iin two months. (I hope) Im part fitting the furniture now which is the big noticeable stage but im not videoing joinery work anymore just finished stuff and explain why and how. I did a great vid reviewing the renogy inverter, explaining about its power consumption and how long it would last using an amp meter on my system but i was told its incorrect, which it was so i had to take it down. 80 hours of work on that vid down the pan. I will remake it but the changes are so great ive had to scrap half the footage. I was using a meter that only read a/c but i was using it on the d/c side. The reading therefore where completely wrong so i couldn’t put that vid forward. There will be plenty coming as i have been filming tasks but they will not be edited for a good while, whilst i get this darn van finished. The videos take much longer than doing the work. Thanks for your enquiry and stuff will be coming up soon enough. Hang in there, much appreciated 👍🏻

Unfortunately not but depends which country you live in because in a morning in the uk its always good to stick the heating on whilst warming your daily hot water. However if you live in hotter climates then i suggest you have a diverted hot air system. However im working on heating my hot water tank with 230v mains too and solar to maintain temperature without switching the heater on at all. Final thing, someone has branded this machine and made it much better so buy that version if your interested. Ill get the link and repost on next comment

www.trales.se/en/

No that is not possible, the main function is hot air.

Yer maybe its unnecessary, have thought that myself. Just seemed like i needed something to transition into a different scene. Your not the first to say that. Advice taken 👍🏻

Hi, your batteries are border line but they never are what they say they are so you probably have about 300ah plus anyway, not 345ah. Especially as the batteries age they loose the ability to hold the full charge capacity. That all said and done, you asked if you can get away with just the D250se without having to buy the smart pass too and my answer is yes. Give it a go and see how it works because the machine does not know what your capacity is. I believe the 300ah limit is only because there is not enough sunlight in a day to fully charge more than that. However you have agm lead acid batteries so you can only use 170ah therefore your well within fully charging your batteries inside a full sunny day so go for it. Also the machine has many safe modes so you cannot damage it. If you use 170ah in one day you will need a long sunny day to recharge because the D250se can only re charge at a max of 25amps per hour and thats if your lucky. If you do buy the smartpass then you would also need more solar panels to make a difference or if your charging from the alternator you would need a much thicker wire and fuse. I found when i had a small battery 45 usable capacity the cteck charged it back up in four hours on solar in summer so i had no need for a large battery. However in winter solar is poor so i bought 170ah lithium battery so i can have four days without any recharge. The smart pass will recharge fast but only if you have a large solar bank so no need to buy that unless you can fit plenty of solar panels on your van. Hope this helps. Please ask more questions if confused.

Here is my analysis: SMARTPASS 120S In a dual battery system, a B2B charger (e.g. D250SE) normally includes features such as : battery separation, simultaneous start/service battery charging from alternator. In addition to these, SMARTPASS 120S also features: Start assistance (not crucial but useful) • SMARTPASS 120S automatically connects the service battery to the starter battery for 10 sec to assist, if the starter battery on its own is unable to start the engine. Charging the service battery (hopefully covered by a B2B charger to a degree) • charges a service battery at up to 120A (140A with D250SE) from the start battery when a conventional or smart alternator is running. This function is switched off when the engine is not running to prevent discharge of the starter battery. • Dynamic overcurrent protection to shield the product. ...permits up to 350A to be sent from the alternator temporarily so that charging will be accelerated. • Battery temperature protection - protects the battery by switching off charging if the service battery temperature rises too high. Loads (a Low Voltage Disconnect module can do this probably) • Over-discharge protection - protects the service battery from deep discharge (V < 11.5V). The consumers are reconnected after the service battery voltage has increased. • supplies consumers from the alternator instead of from the service battery while the service battery is charging, which permits faster charging (Otherwise the consumers are supplied with current from the service battery). • The consumer output terminal of SMARTPASS 120S supplies consumers with max 80A continuously. Maintenance of Starter battery (a DC-DC Trickle Charger can do this) • Starter battery trickle charging - The service battery trickle charges the starter battery without assistance from the solar panel or alternator (when service battery voltage is higher than that of the starter battery and the voltage of the starter battery is low). These extra features are useful and will require extra equipment to achieve. The Smartpass does all this by itself, in a small footprint, harmoniously & intelligently.

www.deshiye.com/m_en/view.php?aid=1428 Should get it from there pal 👍🏻 Thanks for your comments. Always appreciated.

Thats the edited version lol. 🤣 Yer your not wrong. Its a bodge job to tart it up and its not done bad to be fare but the rust is coming back through in say 30% of the places so ill do another mini tart up till i can afford to have it done professionally. I still think the rust will be a constant battle after the pros get their hands on it. All my vids are very amateur, only filmed on my iPhone and just for fun really. Its a video diary of what I’m doing to my van and not a tutorial video. Perhaps i should say this to people at the beginning.

Very interesting. Thus far my system works well so fingers crossed

Hi, its not fully fitted yet because of my cabinet maker pal cant make my furniture this season due to too busy, so ive fitted temporary furniture and started using the van for summer trips. I recon in the next few months ill commission the hot water system and film it but my next vid is about the plumbing which is half finished then its come to a halt due to holidays and busy at work. Ill try get that vid out in a few weeks. Then the hot water tank system as i can still build it into the temporary sink unit i guess. I need to put pressure on my joiner pal too as i want it sparkling and looking great by next season.

@@diycampervanman1633 that would be definetally helpful - looking forward to any new videos.Thank you. I have looked and bought a colorifier tank for hot water storage for this system -will run the water (coolant) through it but via the heater not the engine. I have one more question though.. what water pump for van would you use for these two tanks? I am trying to figure out if one pump or two? It would need a pump for hot water and pump for cold water correct? (I mean the pumps that would distribute water through pipes to shower and sink..) Would you advise any pump that you have used and tried on this set up for both hot and cold water delivery to the tapas please? Thanks alot

@@vladimirrepas2449 if your using a colorifier then you can raise the temperature very high so you need to make sure your push fit connectors and pipes are up to the job. Speedfit connectors can be used for central heating pipes in a house so they will be fit for the job! However your pump wont be more than likely as they generally only operate up to 50-55’C for Campervan 12v systems. However if you are using a colorifier then you only need one pump for the hot and cold water. In this situation the pump should be fitted before any hot water system. That system is a better system and really the normal way of doing it but because my tank is a plastic vented tank, i have no choice but to fit two pumps. I looked at using a colorifier but they where too expensive. I was looking for a much cheaper way to make and store hot water so i came up with the two pump system to get round having a vented tank. My tank will drain away as i use it. The colorifier will always be full. You drain the hot water out by pushing in more cold water. Heat rises so the hot water is pushed out the top when the cold water is pushed in at the bottom of the tank. I would suggest looking at other peoples videos to see how the plumbing should be done based on one pump. Try Greg Virgo on youtube. My system is a cheap alternative system, using a colorifier is getting into a more professional system. Dont forget to vent your coolant system too as the max temp is 180’C based on waterless coolant.

I can explain in more detail but its late at night at mo so have to sleep.

@@vladimirrepas2449 hi not sure my reply is in the correct comment section. Sureflow pumps all the time but watch my plumbing video as it may explain a few things and as my system is different to yours as your using a colorifier which isnt a vented tank so you can use one pump for both hot and cold but my plumbing video doesnt show you how to plumb with one pump. One pump is a better system but i was forced to use two pumps because of my set up. I did that set up purely for cheapness but it did mean buying two pumps unfortunately. You need to search out videos on youtube for plumbing using a colorifer. Your system is better but much more expensive so i stayed away from that. Also i want to use most of my water whereas a colorifier. Will always need a full tank be it a small tank. A guy in new Zealand used a colorifier with the same diesel heater. He said it will cook the water easy but his pipes blow off when he turned the circulation pump off. Follow my instructions using waterless coolant only. Do not add water and fit vents to expel bubbles that will appear in the coolant when the circulation pump is switched off! My final bit of advice is as soon as you turn the circulation pump off when you have hot water, you must drop your fan setting to the lowest setting so your machine doesn’t go higher than 180’C. That way your waterless coolant can handle that temperature and not gas up when the coolant is not circulating. Thanks for the nice comments. Please ask more questions if confused. Remember, my system is a cheap system to get hot water and is not the usual way of plumbing a camper van. Ive done the videos to share with people like yourself how i think you can build a cheap system that works safely. Regards, karl.

Buy from here:- www.deshiye.com/m_en/view.php?aid=1428

Don’t waste your money get an instant lpg boiler but if your dead set I have one brand new still in the box if want to buy it

@@gazgaz6749 those machines are great but are for exterior use only if its what I’m thinking of?

Most are but you can get ones with a flu

@@zappytravels that was a comment from me btw dont know how my other channel got crossed over? Lol

Great idea and appreciate your kind words. Living in the uk means we seldom get scorching weather so its not such an issue. Spring to autumn its usually chilly first thing in the morning and at night so its much less of an issue. However for those really hot weeks I’m hoping i can heat the water up via 240 element on grid and using a solar panel to slow the temperature drop off grid (to be experimented with next yr). Failing that its solar combined with a good old kettle of boiling water in the tank lol.

Im currently making the vid on the plumbing i’ve installed but keep getting distracted with trips away in the half built van lol

You can kill it off which Ive done but if there is any spores beneath the surface it will be entombed in a paint as i have painted the lats with an oil based sealer stopping moisture entering to reactivate. The rest of the van it hasn’t set up as it was trapped underneath the temporary ceiling. The walls in the van will be painted with my decorative product so that too will be sealed from damp penetration. The spores need moisture of which it will be denied of. Ive had the van vented for 6 months and nothing has set up. The interior walls and floor had been insulated and with vapour barriers so those areas are completely safe but hear what your saying.

It looks better on camera than it does in real life! The black bumpers where sprayed black satin too to give it that better look also, not shown on here.

@@diycampervanman1633 The corner of the sliding door in the previous video looked like there wasn't much left to fix after using the gun on it... Did you end up welding a plate on or did you get away with the mesh stuff?.. I'm currently looking for a van for around the 5k mark but I'm struggling to find one in my price range without moon milage!...seen some lower mileage but they're always beaten up usually between the rear wheel arch and the sliding door (must be a blind spot!) after seeing this I'm not that reluctant anymore to take on a van with a few dents and rust so cheers

@@jamesvardy3530 i got away with the mesh. I cant weld so that was my only option. Its still strong now but a tiny brown mark appearing where rust wants to peek through. Only about 5% of the rust on the van has come back after 18 months so this year it have to tackle those areas again but much much less work involved. Consider getting yours professionally done for £1,000+ approx. Zero hassle and will look better!

Yes correct again but i can’t do a calculation as it always changes so i chose 12v. I did a quick test on the video of one panel and it was producing 18+volts and that was an overcast reading outlined in text across the screen. If i increase the volts in the calcs as you say i will end up with less amps so i am defo in for safe use of the D250se. I guess it was a safe case scenario as its advertised as 12v panel i use that calc before purchase. Its good I’m challenged so i learn. You seem very confident in your comments, is it your profession or just take an interest in these things yourself.i could argue the calculation is correct, the situation isn’t. I think i should highlight your comment though on the next video that shows the wiring up of the full system. Also Ive put an additional comment in the description to make people aware of what you said.