- 39
- 116 203
Acme Machining
Canada
Приєднався 23 лип 2016
My name is Todd Hopkins. I have been a mechanic for over 45 years and started machining while working on parts that did not fit properly or had to be made because they were not available. Name of my channel is Acme Machining for the small village in Alberta Canada that I live in. UA-cam has been a great learning tool for me and I hope I can share some of my skills with others.
I have added a PayPal Donation Link to help this channel Grow. Thanks for all your support and Please Subscribe
I have added a PayPal Donation Link to help this channel Grow. Thanks for all your support and Please Subscribe
Kurt Vise
Got a new Kurt Vise. from KBC Tools. I have been wanting a really good vise for a while a finally got the best vise money can buy. Short video to show why it should have been my first vise
Переглядів: 212
Відео
Motorcycle Shock Tool Build Part 2
Переглядів 110Місяць тому
Finishing building motorcycle mono shock spring removal tool.
Motorcycle Shock Tool Build Part 1
Переглядів 113Місяць тому
Making a tool to remove the spring to service motorcycle shocks
Ball Joint Flange
Переглядів 1402 місяці тому
Repeat customer from tractor ball joint bushing now working on other side. Requested i machine flange face off ball joint pin so he can set clearance.
Scooter Deck Mod
Переглядів 1412 місяці тому
I had to shorten a scooter deck by 2 inches. It was a fun project.
Morse Taper with Sine Bar Kit
Переглядів 1,3 тис.2 місяці тому
I Received a Sine Bar Kit for my lathe from Tangent Jim and got to use it making a MT3 bar adapter for an upcoming project. Thank Jim. This is a Great Tool.
Tractor Ball Joint Bushing
Переглядів 4113 місяці тому
Customer brought in a front drive axle off a Case Tractor with worn out lower ball joint, that damage the housing. Bored out housing and installed bushing to make it like new again.
Lathe Headstock Alignment
Переглядів 4773 місяці тому
Had to check and align headstock on my lathe. I got MT5 Testbar on Amazon. Was easier than I expected.
Steady Rest Rollers Part 2
Переглядів 6083 місяці тому
The Finishing Touches to the Steady Rest Roller Tips Project
Adding Rollers Tips to Steady Rest
Переглядів 1603 місяці тому
My steady rest came with brass tips and I always wished it had roller tip instead. Lathes with roller tipped steeady rest are out of my price range, so I made a set to increase the usefulness of my lathe. Sorry about the length of this video as it covers almost 3 days work but almost zero cost to build.
Machinist Jack With Slotted Base - Part 1
Переглядів 4105 місяців тому
Making Machinist Jacks for my milling machine.
Shifter Saddle Bushing
Переглядів 1015 місяців тому
Had to build Shifter Saddle Bushing for replica Model A Ford with 1978 Mustang II Driveline. Ford Dealer couldn't get part, and customer needed it overnight for sale of car. It took me 3 hours to make $12 part. Got it done and customer sold car the next day. 2 Happy Customers!!!
Band Saw Mod
Переглядів 4845 місяців тому
Modified the vise on the horizontal band saw to work better with short pieces of material.
Accusize 5C Collect Chuck Review With 5% Promo Code
Переглядів 1605 місяців тому
Accusize 5C Collect Chuck Review With 5% Promo Code
Accusize Lathe chuck Review with 5% Promo code
Переглядів 360Рік тому
Accusize Lathe chuck Review with 5% Promo code
Pinion Depth Checking With Simple Tools
Переглядів 67 тис.Рік тому
Pinion Depth Checking With Simple Tools
Yup got a Ram 1500, 5.7 Hemi. Manifolds need this done to them. Well I replaced the passenger side with a brand new one, so it'll be warping soon I'm sure. Driver side Id like to have this done to it, instead of having to keep buying these manifolds that are just gonna warp again. How much would you, or do you charge for this? What's your price per manifold? I know of a few machine shops near me, & what would be a good guesstimate price wise? Thanks, & good job on the manifolds!
Oh yeah just subscribed to your channel too! 💪🏾
Thanks for watching & subscribing. I charge $60 per manifold to belt sand, or $100/hr if it has to go on the mill. Usually do at least 2 pair per week. Haven't heard of any needing redone in over 5 years, so it must be working.
Why bother taking a measurement of the old pinion if you're installing a new pinion?
So you have a reference measurement. Once it is out you can't be sure of where it was. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Both pinion's are exactly the same?
Never ASSUME. That will bite you when you least except it. If they are exactly the same, we would just remove and replace with out any measurements or concerns. Parts are never exactly the same especially gears and bearing. That's why they have shims and set-up procedures.
@@acmemachiningright so again why are you putting in the old shims when you have to re shim them anyway with plus or minus shims?
Shims can be re-used. Most times you have to stack shims to get the right height you need. Rarely do you have one of each size, but combinations will add up correctly. Always save your old shims for next time. A lot of shops trade off shims to get what they need.
Great video I'm about to dive into this for the first time on a gm 12 bolt posi thats still mounted in the car, not looking foward to popping the carrier in an out 20 times, sucks this pinion didn't have a # on the face or any other markings cause I would have liked to see how that matched up or how you did the math using a calibration tool. My thought is just to mount a square plate where the carrier bolts up then just measure to the face of the pinion, seems it takes a bunch of math an room for error right off the table. Is the # on the face of the pinion the depth from the face of the pinion to the center of the carrier itnis from the back of the spacer behind the pinion to the center of the carrier?
Also the face of my pinion gear has 2 separate #'s
Also what unit of measurements are on the face of the pinion gear? 10 thousands. Cause my kobalt calibration tool measures in MM an CM only and I didn't see you do any conversions
The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch
If you are taking apart a good work diff, and just changing to different gear ratio. You can use any repeatable refence surface. The important part is getting the calculated measurement of the bottom of the pinion where the bearing or shim sets against. Number on the pinion is usually stamped or scribed on the top of the pinion gear or on the shaft below the large bearing. My reference of top or bottom is if you are looking down into the diff like I had it is sitting in video. I don't like saying front or rear because that depends on where you are standing or possibly 4 wheel drive diff. The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch. A plus number needs to sit deeper in the diff, so a thinner shim. Hope this helps. Remember the final check is always looking at gear pattern in marking paint.
25.4mm equals 1 inch. Pinions markers on older North American vehicle are in thousands. Always check for spec in a good service manual.
Great video! Very easy to understand.
Thanks for watching & commenting. Glad you enjoyed. Hope you subscribe & enjoy other videos.
thx . nice explain good tip esy to doo
Glad you liked it
What about bar sag and indicator spring pressure? Does that have to be considered?
I don't worry about bar sag or indicator pressure. A good indicator doesn't have enough pressure to move a good test bar. And bar sag can be checked with indicator mount to bar end against tailstock center. If bar sage is an issue you need a better test bar or spindle bearing maintenance. Lathe is cutting much truer since adjusting head stock, so that is proof enough for me. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed!
Finally a video that makes sense to me about a differential set up! Thank you for sharing this information! I’m going to watch your other ones as well.
Glad it was helpful! Hope you get some enjoyment out of my other videos and please subscribe.
That will be a nice vice , a bit of of my price range ! 👍
Thanks Max, I too have to pick needs over wants. Old vise wasn't doing the job, so I upgraded to the best.
Nice upgrade. Can't beat quality.
You got that right!
I bought my Kurt D675 years ago. It was a chunk of money, but I have never regretted the purchase. You won’t regret it either. Have a great week.
Thanks for watching and commenting. No regrets in buying top quality tools. Glad you enjoy your Kurt
That's all fine and dandy how your doing that but the pinion depth is pretty critical and all those measurements your taking off of different surface's your liable to be off a few thousands. Also if the rear-end has been worked on before who knows if it was set up right to begin with. That rear-end did not come out of a ram 1500. It's a Dana 60. They never installed them on a 1/2 ton ram. 3.125 is the pinion depth on a 60. Just get the right tools for the job instead of cobbling something together. Setting up axle gears right is pretty important if you want them to last. Especially if you using it to off road or pulling.
Title of video is about using simple tools, not how to spend a thousand dollars on tools to save 5 hours labor. This diff came out of a 2012 Ram 1500 VIN 1C6RD7GT8CS118883 customer still has the truck. Diff is also too small for any severe off roading or pulling. Final check for any diff work is pattern checking, so if my method got a totally previously messed up differential to within a few thousands on the first try, to be corrected after checking pattern with gear paint, good job.
Awesome vice Tod, lots of applications
Yes indeed! I will put it to good use.
Nice vise Todd, congratulations on your purchase of the new Kurt Vise.👍👍
Thanks Ed. It pays to buy good quality, rather than cheeping out and regretting it.
I need some information about gear petrron
Lots of videos available on gear patterns. Unfortunately I do have a video or a diff to make a video at this time. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you check out my other videos & subscribe.
Hello sir how are you
Good Thank You
Beast...yeah it can be difficult to comprehend...but review it a few times....great explanation
Thanks for watching and commenting. A lot of math involved in gears, can be difficult at times. Hope you will subscribe.
Thank you for the video. Question- you have nominal (3.125) listed on the diagram at the beginning. However your measurement Is less. So is mine. Where did you get that nominal measurement?
That diagram was not for this differential, it just shows the measurement and where they are being taken. Looking at that diagram with a mounting distance of 5.? inches that differential would be almost a 10" ring gear and most of todays diffs are about 8.25" unless 3/4 ton truck or larger. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Nice job. The biggest thing for me is being ‘self taught’ mostly because any possible instruction in my past has been trial-and-error mechanics that act like it’s a secret black art because they can’t explain what they are doing or measure it. I’ve done a few diffs but knew just enough to get it right and understand why. But great video that affirms my knowledge and taught me a coupla things. Between this and metalshaper’s vids I feel like the next one I do (Dana 30 of my own) I will know exactly what I’m doing and why, and you just saved me $800 :) I actually found this video because I realized it’s just numbers and I thought it likely there was something like this method which would work. So you saved me a bunch of money AND saved me from reinventing the wheel.
Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you. The math is simple, just a lot of it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you will subscribe and enjoy my other videos.
Shop made tools are awesome. You need to stamp Acme Machining on it now.
You got to make any tool you can or you just make someone else rich. I like how Matty etches his stuff.
Looks like it does the job great!
Awesome work Tid
Thanks Marc. I love making tools.
Interesting
Thanks Brian. Part 2 coming soon. I enjoy making tools to make life easier.
Great video I just found your channel thanks to Tom at Hill Top this is definitely something I need to do to all my steady rest also and I’ll be checking out all your other videos too !!
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing. Hope you get lots of enjoyment for my channel. I sure enjoy sharing .
Wow that’s awesome, just in time to put my new Roadwing on my bike. Great job Tod
Looking forward to it. Thanks Marc
12:10 weird flex but ok, don’t have to come at me personally like that… 😂
LOL I was talking about 8" Mitutoyo Vernier Caliper. Maybe next video I will have to get out the 12" Starrett, or would that be "Stare At It " You made me laugh. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Great video. Thank you. Good information.
Oh yeah, I'm concerned about your shirt choice at the end... ;-)
I had to re-shoot the ending, so I had different shirt on. That shirt states the truth - doesn't it.
Glad you enjoyed it.
002” out???? That’s it??? I don’t see that being a problem, not worth the time to set it up and mill … 005” or more out yes ,
Customer wants - Customer gets. That or they go elsewhere and good luck getting them back. Thanks for watching & commenting .Hope you understand and subscribe.
Looks nice
Thanks for watching & commenting. Glad you enjoy it, hope you subscribed.
Thanks for explaining as you went about the job.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I try to help others learn. Hope you subscribed
Great vid. Thank you. If you are only doing bearings and not messing with carrier internals, can you reuse your crush sleeve? I get mixed responses to that question. I will be doing this on jack stands in the garage, so trying to minimize this. I have this exact rear end in the video. Thanks
Always use new crush sleeve when ever removed or over-tightened. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
@@acmemachining "Always use new crush sleeve when ever removed or over-tightened." So true.
Looks like a win and another satisfied customer. 👍
Satisfied Customers are the key to a good business. They tell others where to find you. Have a Great Day.
Yep. I had a repeat customer show up last Thursday needing some more work done.@@acmemachining
If you could give my channel a mention on an upcoming video I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
No problem. @@acmemachining
I love the way you explain things as you go. Great video
Glad you liked it! Just trying to spread some knowledge so other can learn also/
Thanks!
Thank You. Glad you enjoy my videos.
Hey Todd loving the new camera bud. I would be interested in knowing how you got your start on You Tube! Look me up if you're interested in having a coffee or beer sometime! Roger from Calgary. President of Vickery Electric Ltd.
Thanks Roger. I watch a lot of interesting people and things on UA-cam. Then thought of all the problems I have faced in my career as mechanic, machinist and fabricator. Decided to try and share some of these by starting a channel. It started out real slow, I had very little time (work day 12 hours with travel time). But I kept at it and it kept growing. Comments, Likes and Subscribers makes me want to do more of what I enjoy. I will look you up my next trip to Calgary.
When I use this information to try to gauge my pinion depth, I'm getting some strange numbers. Based on what I've measured and calculated, I should be using 0.158 of shims. Does that seem unusual? That's the factory shim, plus nearly every shim that came in the kit I got. If I install that many shims, I can't get any backlash at all. So obviously I'm doing something wrong. I just don't know what. My pinion has the number 092 written on it. The ring has a D22092 on it. I'm assuming my mounting depth then is 5.092? The pinion is 1.99 without a shim, the center of my axle is 2.44 from the surface of my diff housing. Thanks
What was the original measurement of pinion before removing and do you have the right spec for pinion depth? Most pinion shims are under 0.035". If you can't get spec for your diff's pinion start with factor shim and check contact pattern with marking paint. If you have measurement from original pinion you can select shim through calculating difference. Some manufactures done give pinion depth spec, they just give what you should be measure with their special tools. I hope this helps. Do force anything and repeat until contact pattern is correct.
@@acmemachiningthanks for replying. I'm not sure on the depth of the original pinion , but I got the bearing off in one piece and honed it out until it slip fits. Should the check distance of the old pinion be the same as the new? That would simplify the problem.
I hope it works out for you. The best things about challenges is you make you so much better for working through them. Hope you subscribed. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Awesome video, can’t wait for you to do my new chromed floorboards for my bike
Coming soon! I will have to do a video on your bike mods.
@@acmemachining absolutely
watching you dial that compound in was painful
Sorry but that is what learning is about. First time you try a tool you can give up or keep at it. I choose to show learning take time and commitment. And it alot hard when people are watching. Thanks for watching & commenting. If I edited it all out others may feel they aren't able to learn things like this when they try it.
@@acmemachining touché
What’s the sandpaper grit ?
60 grit Sanding Belt. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Don't spin when you're checking the fit of the taper. You might have contact only on one small point and by spinning it so much you drag that round and round and hide those issues. Put it on tight, tap it off.
Thanks for the tip. I will try that.
There is something very loose in your setups. When you're winding the compound back you're taking almost as big a chip as on the way in. Maybe you're pushing on the compound when you're winding back. Use a drill to drive the compound, you'll get better finishes and more accurate cuts. Holding onto the machine like that is a bad idea.
I plan on making a drill adapter. Last time I did tapers lathe had taper attachment. This lathe is not that fancy. Thanks for the tip.
Hey, Do ya have a link where we can purchase that tool.. Thanks !
You have to call him or E-Mail Telephone 1-508-496-2138 Fax 1-508-496-2138 jimenos@acushnettool.com Thanks for Watching & Commenting. Hope you Subscribed. Check out TangentJim on UA-cam.
thanks.. I have been subbed for years now.. I enjoy making chips as well !@@acmemachining
Nice to see the machining community helping each other out. Great video
It sure is. Thanks for watching and commenting
Instead of using the cover face, which isn't machined with the same tool, i use the bearing cap surfaces, which are the actual center of axle rotation.
The bearings cap surfaces are not always centerline. They are align bored just like engine main bearings. Most are perfect but some are off and that would ruin the job. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice job! Now you just need a HBM in your driveway for these jobs. 😉
I checked with Amazon for one like Brian Bloc has but they willn't deliver it. LOL
Probably need a prime membership for that. 😀@@acmemachining
Hbm’s make life good!!
I think yours would stick out thru the roof even after it went thru the floor. But I would like to have it.
Todd - You've got a big set of balls tackling that Tractor Axel project. I've been around the block a few times, but I learned a few things. Thanks for the education. Two thumbs up. -- Jim
Lot's of farming equipment in this area. Do good work for the farmers and you will never starve. Machining has always been fixing stuff other can't. Glad I could help them out and teach an old dog new tricks. That's 2 birds with 1 stone. LOL
Amateur question: when you set the block up on the table, it seems to me that you are automatically accepting the undersurface (which touches the table) as "true and correct" and measuring the deck surface against that. Is there a potential for being mistaken in that assumption, and how would you detect that and compensate for it?
Good question. I measured the 4 corners with vernier caliper first, and check top surface with straight edge to confirm it does not require shimming against the table. Never assume. The old saying measure twice cut once. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed. Measuring first also confirms how much was removed. I like to take first measurements with customer present.
Great Video For Me! I can set-up my GM10 rear end, and combine with the listed guide on Google, I can precisely figure the measurements. Thanks a bunch!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subcribe and share with friends.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it.
Very nice work. I like your milling machine. Nice fly cutter
Thank you very much! Fly cutter build was a nice project, hardest part was balancing.
What kinda machine is this ?
Bridgeport clone imported to Canada by Modern Tool. Thanks for watching
Thanks good information and no music
Glad you liked it