Відео

Pull hard. Maybe use some pliers

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True. but the door wouldn’t open all the way.

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It’s going to work but it will be a little weak. You might want to give a few more turns on the spring

@@1agaragedoorssacramento Thanks

Sure

Possibly with the older motors, since they only had 1 speed. All the newer motors have 2 speeds and does not put as much stressing on the sections/parts.

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Yes it is. But so far I never had one fail yet.

Yes, it’s a video. Where you connect to your Wi-Fi. Anytime your door opens you could always use what’s going on. It also has a two-way radio. It’s good if you set up your Amazon prime to where they open up the garage door to put your package in. You can always know what’s going on.

That’s true. They are more harder to clean and very easy to puncture. If you have no kids or pets then it’s not a bad way to go if you want something insulated on a budget. My only problem with the steel back is they’re very hard to work on.when it’s hit, you can’t really do anything but just replaced that section which cost an arm and a leg

Good question. I would assume you don’t if everything running off of solar. But in CA it doesn’t matter. All motors installed need a backup battery.

Your welcome!

lol. It’s still scary even though it looks easy. One wrong move and the door could end up on the ground lol

You welcome

True. So far around 1k openers with LED’s we installed, we haven’t had a single problem.

Yes. 2 center brackets and 2 center couplings

Springs can lose tension, have the wrong one installed, or be broken.

You need to have the very end of the lock flush with the panel or else it will catch on the rail when it goes around the radius.

What do you mean? Calculate the size of them? Or see what style?

Thanks so much!

Rule of thumb is getting at least 10k out of the springs.

Learning from the best . I like your videos

@@1agaragedoorssacramento You're too kind my friend. We should collaborate on a video soon!

You need to have the very end of that lock flush with the panel or else it will catch on the tracks when it goes around the radius.

The problem is when the door opens, the edge of that lock will catch on the rail. That’s why I have that edge of that lock flush with edge of the door.

@@1agaragedoorssacramento ah ok.

The door has to have slight play left to right and can’t be tightly wedged to the tracks.

I believe they meant to put something like a common C-clamp on the rail itself, just above a caster/wheel which would prevent the door from lifting. I've also seen people use Vice-grip style pliers to the same effect on the lip of the rails, mainly to hold a door up- not to prevent forced entry. The thought just occured to me you might be able to simply drill a hole in the rail and place something like a pad-lock through above a caster, preventing the door from rising.

@manleeman5212 exactly someone who gets it no need to spend up to $100. to pervent door from moving

True. It’s just I notice most the people won’t take the time to put a lock. But you are 100% correct.

I never seen them with 2 locks before. But you have a point.

Some older doors I've seen have a type of lock with a key two flat steel bars that extend to both sides when the lock is rotated. (Which would essentially be the same thing, and may be why some people thought to employ the two modern locks on either side.

87802 is a completely different animal. It’s made for heavy doors where 87504 won’t pull or have trouble pulling. So I went off of most common openers installed in our area.

What is the model number of the chain driven one.

I would always recommend lubricating your garage door twice a year when the weather changes. As far as lubricant, I just recommend the silicone garage door spray you can get at any big box stores.

11 gage is an overkill. Unless you have a heavy custom wood door or glass door.

14 gauge wouldn't open my amarr door all the way. Should I use narrower hinges like 16 or 18 gauge?

How would you do that when both the cables are off?

@1agaragedoorssacramento Easier to show than Messaging How to but bear with me here. Get the door to its further up position where the trolley is touching the motor pretty much. Vise-grip on the track so the door will stay in the opposition. Loosen set screws on the springs and blackdrum. Then go to red drum. Rap the cable around the drum. After the cables were nice and tight around the drum. Vise-grip the tube to hold the tension on the cable. NOW This is the key when you go to the blackdrum. Make sure the sets cruise are set exactly the same as the red one when rapping the cable. After that, you can go to spring, do one turn, and add a little separation, then Lock down the set screws. I know it sounds like a lot, but after a couple times. So more efficient and faster, especially the time you have the garage full of stuff and no room to work.

It’s can play out multiples way. Bad rollers, hinges, loose tracks, bad springs, garage closed on something, etc.. this specific one was garage closed on something.

We are in California and rarely see extension springs. If they are ever broken, we would just convert it to the traditional torque springs. They will also be balanced out much better and won’t have the door bouncing left to right .

To explain it properly: Tension springs are a product of wear and tear. At the bottom there are multiple connection points, if it’s connected to the top one you can place it further down. Alternatively, you could technically shorten the cables - which I wouldn’t recommend, since you risking to extend them too much. I’d recommend to swap the springs with new ones and then it’s fixed. I also wouldn’t recommend the cable tie method, that’s a short term solution.

@@bestishiphop yeah I believe that is what the so-called repair company had used the wrong springs because they just hang down because they’re too long. It’s just a traditional rollup door and each side is isolated , has a pair of its own. I just have to replace them myself….for now I’ve just been shoving a broken (1/2 length of a regular handled broom) to keep it open, so it doesn’t slam back down, lol want something done right? You just have to do it yourself. 😑

Thanks for your reply have a great day ☺️

@@carrieokie49 True :) Good luck!

I like how they have the beefy rail. But everything else is kind of trash.

At least this isn't the idrive 🤷‍♂️ can't get much worse then that

Cherry on top is when the door has torque master and the spring breaks lol

What year is the battery? They are supposed to have a date on it.

Sorry don’t have any in stock.. those are usually special ordered .

Upgrade the springs one size higher. My used 36” and I replaced with 48”. It will last forever.

​@@hunglien2000what did you notice when you changed it form 36 to 48? Was the door faster/slower more work on the garage door opener?

@@RobertBrown876 No different. Even you replace a heavier door it still can handle it.

One of the biggest fails lol. That and the Ryobi.

We usually order them from the distributor insulated. But if I get a chance, I’ll purchase something and practice it and try to make a video. Thank you for the idea.

Your not talking about the sealed end caps?

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You can burn out the motor, buckle your door from the motor lifting it up and down, God forbid the motor arms rips out and comes crashing down on something or someone, etc..

Garage doors can be very heavy and the springs essentially are there to counter that weight so the door acts as if it's essentially weightless. If the springs aren't functioning properly it could not only damage the door and motor- it could be extremely hazardous, and even fatal if the door were to unexpectedly and rapidly drop on someone or something. It could easily break bones in your foot or seriously harm small pets or children. Let alone you might injure yourself if you try to manually operate the door and get caught off guard by the weight of the unaided door.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLYTQ8U/ref=cx_skuctr_share?smid=A1QIVZL0JQUPBV

The 6200ZZ relates to the bearing used inside the roller. There are different makers on Amazon (and probably elsewhere) that use the higher quality bearings. There may be several different bearings used in the many rollers available on Amazon, but I have seen several that reference the 6200ZZ in their description.

You’re absolutely right!

Thank you Steven. I’m glad I could help you.

When you were talking about the bearings, are you referring to the flag brackets? Or the garage door roller bearings?

@@1agaragedoorssacramento the roller bearings , they look like cheap wobbly units

@@stansmith-h2b it’s mostly a cheap way. 6200zz rollers are also newer and they haven’t been around like the traditional with the ball bearings. The less play you have in the rollers, the better.

@@1agaragedoorssacramento The garage door roller bearings...The wheels

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A lot of overseas companies started making counterfeit products regardless if it is patented. It puts a-lot of hurt on the companies that own that product. And the quality is also not the greatest. Check out our full video for more details ua-cam.com/video/eKJVpqhl6ck/v-deo.htmlsi=MOhvO8-hFCcMyIvI

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They are very common on builder grade Homes.