Відео

The building billy series was so good. Can't wait to see the next gun.

. . . and yeh, the lanyard on the butt is spectra

The Building “Billy” playlist on UA-cam should be able to be accessed by the following link. ua-cam.com/play/PLiCzESJVwBTdk7pcRrcXTMfN0RESvUz1e.html&si=nZroq4UGzFzmOGZU

For those who can’t follow my mumbled Australian English, I’ve attached a transcript of the commentary. It should be able to be translated by Google, or whatever. ““Billy” An all-round clear-water end-handled speargun. I’m Ric and I want to talk about a speargun I have built. It’s named “Billy”. (Don’t blame me for the name, but think of it the next time you buy one of Billy’s ice-creams.) Billy is a conventional end-handle speargun. Billy has been built for a member of my extended family. Most likely Billy will be used in temperate and subtropical Indian Ocean waters off the coast of Western Australia. In those waters, the visibility is usually good. Fish can be quite large. Down south it’s possible to target pelagics like Samson fish and demersals like blue groper around reef. Up north, there’s the possibility of Spanish mackerel in the open water, and coral trout around reef. Some grunt and good range is desirable. But a little manoeuvrability would be good too. Billy’s construction should provide the best trade-off. But what did I need to put together to get the best combination? I opted for a Rob Allen 7.5mm diameter spear as it’s less likely to bend, and it should have sufficient punch to take the desired-size quarry To match the spear, (following Rob Allen’s recommendations) I opted for two Rob Allen 14mm rubbers. I installed a Meandros long mech. The mechanism releases smoothly and has a good reputation But it was a bugger to fit and install. And, it looks good! The stock is 1.2 metres long. This seemed the best compromise between manoeuvrability, accuracy and power. Billy’s stock has a cuttle shape : which is what most people expect for an artisan-built gun, and it adds a little inertial mass. The handle is one of my standard ergonomic six-gun grips. The muzzle is open. The butt is rounded for comfort during loading and sloped to match the angle of the gun at the time. Following advice from an experienced WA local, I opted for a monofilament shooting line, and added a custom shock absorber As far as the rig is concerned, I imagine that most of the time the gun will be used, tied to the float line. The lanyard is spectra I have also included the option of a Riffe-style breakaway, should the targeted quarry be something more substantial. Billy is built from two timbers : the straw-coloured timber is Tasmanian Oak. The deep red timber trim is red gum. I glued the lams with West epoxy and using G-flex between dissimilar timbers. Billy was initially sealed with penetrating epoxy, then finished with two-pot polyurethane floor varnish. I did a little sign writing . . . proclaiming Billy’s name to the world at large. I decided to make a feature of the lead ballast, with some fancy casting and clear embedding resin. Billy is a middle of the road design : optimised for clear water and moderately large fish : both demersal and pelagic. To my eye, the red-gum trim lifts the aesthetics. Billy should function well. I videoed a description of each stage in this build. If you are interested in this sort of detail, it can be accessed by following the attached link ua-cam.com/play/PLiCzESJVwBTdk7pcRrcXTMfN0RESvUz1e.html&si=UU-QJ3kQ098s2QEp “

For those who can’t understand my English, I’ve transcribed the text and added it below. You might use Google translate, or something similar, to read it. “Today, I want to talk about varnishing and finishing this speargun. The final quality of the finish depends very much on the preparation. I removed all the attached hardware from the gun. Put it in a bag for safe-keeping. Since I had previously immersed the gun in saltwater (for ballasting and balancing) I rinsed it in freshwater, then waited till it was completely dry. Prior to this stage, Billy had been coated in penetrating epoxy. I sanded the epoxied surface with 120 grit sand paper I thoroughly removed dust from the speargun (using a brush then a cloth). The speargun has a name : it’s called “Billy” and I wanted to put the name on the stock. I used a felt pen with a point for the sign-writing. This time, the ink in the pen was spirit-based. The varnish is oil-based and could make the lettering run, so the sign-writing needed to be sealed. I used a single coat of water-based polyurethane varnish to seal it. After the water-based varnish dried, it was time to apply the finish coat. There are a variety of ways to finish the surface of a speargun, but I like oil-based, two-pot polyurethane floor varnish. It’s not too difficult to apply. Once it’s on, it’s good looking and very durable. It is tough to scratch and has some degree of resistance to ultraviolet light. There are other finishes, such as single pot polyurethanes, oils, epoxy, marine varnishes, as well as water-based polyurethane. Each has its advantages and disadvantages and selecting one is a matter of personal preference really. But my preference is for two-pot floor varnish. I mixed the varnish according to the instructions. I applied it with a cheapish paintbrush purchased from a two dollar store. I hung the speargun on a hook made from clothes hanger wire, and placed some scrap cardboard underneath to catch drips. The first application with the brush was with a little force to get the varnish onto the surface, then I followed-up with a light touch to let the tip of the brush smooth-out the varnish. Once the entire gun was covered, I left it hanging overnight to allow the varnish to harden. In the cold light of the next morning, I inspected the surface of the speargun for drips or missed areas. Normal modus operandi is, if the coat is good, I don’t touch it : it’s done! But most times, there’s a run or a bare patch. If it’s not right, I sand-down the surface with 120 grit sandpaper, and paint-on more varnish. I repeat until it’s right. It’s not uncommon for me to put on four, or so, coats. The shiny clear surface left by the varnish looks really good. Especially when you can see the grain of the timber through it. But it is slippery, especially so in water. If the handle slips when tracking a fish, a shot might miss. If the butt of the gun slips during loading, you may well end up with swollen and painful testicles. I put a layer of anti-slip sawdust on the handle and the butt. Once the sign-writing a varnishing were completed, it was time to think about rubbers and rigging. But that’s the subject of the next video in this series.”

For those who can’t understand my English, I include a written transcript of what I said. You could use Google translate, or something similar, to make it understandable. “Today I want to talk about ballasting and balancing. When I use the word “ballasting”, I’m talking about adding weight to a speargun to control its overall buoyancy That is, to determine whether it floats or sinks. When I talk about “balancing” I’m talking about how the speargun sits when free in the water : does the front end droop forward, does the speargun stay level or does the gun sit with butt down? Does ballasting, or balancing, matter? A gun that is ballasted close to neutral bouyancy is easier to carry and easier to aim, especially with your arm extended. A gun that is ballasted to have a slight negative bouyancy will sink, making it easier to find if it’s let go A gun that is slightly nose-heavy gives “proprioceptive” cues , improving intuitive aiming A gun that comes to rest with the tip pointing down is safer I’ve yet to find out a way to determine the right amount of ballast, and where it should be placed, in the workshop. I have to take the gun to a local tide pool and work it out, by hand, and in seawater To do this, the speargun needed to be sealed to prevent water seeping into the timber. It also needed to be fully assembled, with the floating and sinking bits arranged as they would be when it will be on the hunt. I have a collection of sample weights, each one twice the weight of the next smaller. I put the gun in the water and added weights till it just sank. Then I moved the position of the weights till the tip just started to drop. I noted the number and mass of the weights, as well as their position, then I took it back to the workshop. Once the gun had been washed and dried, cavities were excavated in the stock, and the appropriate amount of lead was inserted. The lead was embedded in the pockets with clear casting resin. When the resin had set, I sanded it flat with 80 grit sandpaper. The gun was now ready for varnishing and finishing.”

For those who can’t understand spoken English, I’ve added a transcript of the commentary that can be processed by Google translate, or whatever. “Today I want to talk about adding rubbers and rigging to the gun. The stock and handle have been constructed. It’s been ballasted and balanced. The surface has been sealed and varnished. All the metal parts have been re-installed. It’s time to add the cords and rubber components. #rubbers The rubbers provide the motive power to throw the spear. Rob Allen, who made the spear, recommends two 14mm rubbers. Billy is built to meet the specification. As a rule of thumb, at the extreme, rubbers can be stretched to four times their length. At four to one the rubbers return the maximum amount of power, but they are hard to load, and they wear out faster. Personally I like a less extreme stretch, and the rubbers on Billy are longer, more like to three to one. The longer rubbers will be easier to load and will last longer. The new owner can, if they so wish, shorten them later on. UA-cam is full of articles on how to tie rubbers and bridles, and I won’t bother to repeat the information here. # shooting line The spear needs to be attached to the gun and/or the line to the float. Billy’s owner will most likely be using it in Western Australian waters I asked advice from a friend who has decades of experience in these waters, and he suggested that monofilament is the best all-round material. Billy has an open muzzle, that is, the spear is held down into the spear channel by the shooting line. So the shooting line needs to be just the right length. Once I got the length right, I cut the line, crimped it onto the spear, and crimped the other end into a loop. # Shock absorber Not everybody agrees, but I like to add a shock absorber where the shooting line attaches to the muzzle. In my experience the shock absorbers reduce the chance of a fish tearing-off the spear, and they help to tension the shooting line when the gun is loaded, securing the spear better. I make my own shock absorber from spectra braid and shock cord. It’s tied into the muzzle end of the speargun, and to the loop at the end of the shooting line. # Lanyard There’s a spectra lanyard tied into the gun just in front of the butt. The lanyard can be used to hang the speargun off the float when it’s not in use, say, when you might want to pull a cray, or chop burley. The lanyard can also be used as part of a tethering rig, when it’s tied, or clipped, to the float line. # Breakaway There is another rig option : a breakaway. A breakaway allows the spear and shooting line to separate from the gun, but remain attached to the float line. This can be handy if there are sharks around as it leaves the gun in the diver’s hand, giving the option of poking-off the men in grey coats. The stretchy rubber grips once it threaded into the hole, and provides tension along the shooting line to keep the spear in place at the muzzle. But when there is a really hard pull on it (as you get when there is a big fish on the spear) the rubber can stretch and detach from the gun. # Sum-up Billy is almost ready to go out and take fish, but there’s a few more pieces of advice to add, and they’ll be the subject of the next video.”

cant wait to see you with the dentex

For those who don’t speak English, I attach written text you can translate via Google, or other means “Spearguns are trade-offs when it comes to design What you gain on the slides you’ll most likely lose on the seesaws You have to be careful with how you modify, or you may compromise the function of what was a good speargun. I don’t usually modify spearguns. I find it cleaner and neater to build a new one. But this once, I thought I might try to upgrade and oldy and a goody Back in 2006, I built what was a light Euro pipe gun, but made from wood. The goal at the time was to make a speargun suitable for taking pinky snapper in Melbourne’s Port Phillip Bay. I wanted something very accurate but manoeuvrable enough to track the pinkies as they ducked and weaved The stock was minimalist, reducing water resistance. The spear was narrow, 1/4 inch in diameter, making the gun easy to swing, and, once the spear was launched, the spear flew fast. With the co-planar rubbers and elevated handle position, the forces were aligned, resulting in very accurate spear flight It’s been one of my more successful builds. Since I made it, it’s accounted for hundreds of pinky snapper, quite a few flatheads, some King George whiting and sundry other species. Its narrow body is really easy to push through the water, allowing more time in the kill zone. There’s no doubt the design has been fit for purpose. But I decided I wanted to change the design a little. I’ve set myself a goal of going to the Mediterranean and shooting a three kilogram dentex Some people may think this a bit ambitious for someone at my skill level, but let an old man have his dreams. I need the gun to be better suited to take the similar, but larger and stronger fish. Hopefully the modifications will make it fit for the new purpose. The first modification will be to change the spear to 7mm diameter. The heavier spear should have more range, better penetration through fish flesh, and be less likely to be bent by a struggling fish But it will mean a heavier gun with increased recoil, and the spear will fly slower. I’ll put in a shorter spear, which should reduce the weight a little. The trade-off for the shorter spear is the front overhang may reduce aiming accuracy a little. Perhaps. Maybe. Whatever, I’ll just have to live with it. The gun has a closed muzzle : there is just enough room for the 1/4 inch spear and the monofilament shooting line to pass through. I’m a bit worried that a fatter spear might jam, so I’ll get rid of the thicker mono shooting line, and replace it with a thinner one, giving just a little extra clearance. The thinner mono should be strong enough, and it might let the spear fly just a little faster. Tying a float cord to the gun decreases manoeuvrability (and this applies to both tethering and breakaway rigs) Historically my preference has been to use a drop rig. This has been my practice for Port Phillip snapper, and I suspect it will remain true for Dentex in the Mediterranean. I think it’s best to let the fish run, and exhaust its energy, before pulling it in. So you may need to drop the gun after the shot, and retrieve it later. But the Mediterranean can be deep. I decided to add a reel, as is common practice in the Mediterranean. I generally don’t like reels : they can spool (jam) when under tension, and they make the gun more bulky. But I did a search and found that there are some quite small reels Kind of cute I think. Anyway, I want to use the reel as a fish finding device, not as an aid to fighting a big fish, so the reel doesn’t have to be big and it should be less likely to spool. The scenario I dream of is to hit my three kilogram dentex, and let it swim off with the spear while I head for the surface, unspooling as I go. After I’ve got my breath, and allowed time for the fish’s first burst of adrenaline to dissipate, I can use the reel line to find where my quarry has holed-up in the rocks. To fit this gun, the reel needed a base. and I had to chop a mortise and inset a base into the gun. The previous set of rubbers pushed the 1/4 inch spear pretty well, but more power might be needed for the heavier spear. If I find it needs more power, I plan to replace the existing rubbers with shorter progressive rubbers. Will it work? I hope so. The theory seems sound, but the only real way will be to use it in the water.”

My original description for the gun was given at ua-cam.com/video/-o8Wb9JY6Bc/v-deo.htmlsi=0u85RT_lKVbD3xft

Erratum : I said the gun was initially built in 2006 : that was wrong, it was in 2010

Good idea

What are your opinion on using oil finishes vs epoxy or polyurethane?

How aren't more people more people watching your videos? Joined a bit late, but your videos helped me answer so many questions I had making wooden mid handles. Keep it up

Muito criativo esses contra peso. Show!!!

Não entendo nada que vc fala, mas gosto do seu trabalho

Falo do Brasil. Show sua empunhadura

Thanks. Veryj nice. 👏👏👏👏

Good video

Thanks for your videos they are so good

Really enjoyed your presentations Rick. Good to know what can be done with locally sourced Timbers. Tony - Qld.

New supporter mo pala idol😊

Great video series

I like your video but thats gun Made video ples i will made at home thats gun

Nice Speargun sir, beautiful handle I like your design.

When are we testing this :)

Nice lookin rig! Double band it an get at it! Happy hunting

does it have safety mech?

😚 'promosm'

Hell yeah.

Hello firend whats your name wood

Boa noite gostaria de saber como e o nome dessa cola de madeira.

Dude. I wish you show mote of your work and less of your face!! I guess you love too much to see yourself on screen!

Los felicito por ser tan injeniosos por favor merregalan las medidas q Dios los vediga

*_wooow Amazing_*

Gostaria de o cisterna de gatilho desse arbalete

That's a really cool weapon.

你好，你的whatsapp是什么？

Good morning mr.bahan yg sangat bagus sekali untuk membuat tembak ikan.mantap semoga hari yg menyenangkan.salam sukses kawna

oh my dream trigger mechanism. i hope i have that one someday

I have received comment from a person who is familiar with using these mechs. He suggests that in his experience, weakening of the stock and/or the handle/stock joint is not an issue in the practical world of everyday use.

Nice gun, I shoot a very similar style gun 125cm, 3 x 14mm bands that I originally had a 7.5 riffe shaft on but it flexed to much so I put on a 8mm south african shaft. 8mm works great with the neptonics and trigger mechanism and 3 bands. For king season next month, I'm tempted to go to 16mm rubbers or build a different gun. With your break away set up if the fish fights in the opposing direction will it break away or bind? I've just never seen that style before.

I use a bent pin so that I can drill perpendicular to the face, Then I glue my pin in with epoxy. Your method is nice because it removes the need to glue the pin to keep it straight

I like it!

👍 Credits for originating the name have to go to Rick Trippe. The gun is good for big fish in low viz. very easy to swing. Good for yellowtail, but perhaps another design would be better for tuna on a clear day.

I like it! I'm building something very similar for yellowtail. But I'm realizing how difficult setting up a perfect gun is. I'm already planning a new gun. Perfect name as well. Cheers

I’ve had a question . . . It’s my normal practice to put a seal coat onto the gun once I’ve done the basic shaping and sanding. Usually, I apply Everdure or similar brand of penetrating epoxy. But I have used thinned polyurethane floor varnish and that seems just as effective. Then I do the ballasting and balancing in the seawater, take the gun home, wash it down, dismantle all the hardware and start to work on fitting the ballast, adding the sign-writing, applying coats of varnish (usually three or so) and applying anti slip to handle and butt. (Thanks for the question : it helps me identify where my vids can be improved.)

Good stuff Ric. I like to use very dense and durable timbers for my handles. The additional mass helps counteract the weight of the mech aiding in minimal rotational forces felt through the hand. Lots of good Aussie timbers suitable for this. I also add fibreglass to the trigger guard and a stainless steel base plate for protection of the handle.

Keep up the great videos mate. Really enjoying them.

Thank you so much sir! This is very useful! Can I put the ballast in the butt of the speargun? Or must be somewhere in the middle of the gun?