Відео

Pay CLOSE attention to the flat edges of the center collar on the firing pin so they stay flush with the flats on the firing pin back. They have to stay lined up perfectly.

shouldn't. Did you put something back in 180 degrees off?

Yeah the plastic shrouds can break IF you manage to smack them just right. I replaced mine with the aluminum ones, but even at that Ruger will freely replace the shroud if it breaks on you, or any other parts for that matter. Best customer service I've ever seen in the industry among the countless accounts I've heard in online forums.

I'm gonna say that's unlikely. The handle is probably inserted in the bolt in the opposite direction 180° through the hole, to simplify production and machining if you follow. But I could be wrong?!

Use the "spring compressor" Ruger gave you! 😁 If you slide the bolt handle up over the firing pin there's a round collar with tabs sticking out, where it normally sits. Rotate the handle so it locks into that collar and press the whole thing down onto a block of wood so you don't screw up the tip of the firing pin. Helps if you drill a shallow hole partway into the wood to press the pin into so it doesn't get squirrely. Then just twist the firing pin backer so it's square with the handle collar and slip the screwdriver back in.

You mean the new firing pin back? Once you pull the firing pin assembly you drill a hole part way into a scrap 2x4 block of wood big enough that the front of the firing pin will fit in. Then use a "roll pin punch" (specificly! Not just a plain punch!) to drive the roll pin out of the firing pin back so the pin back can unscrew. Screw the new one on using the hole in the wood block and to make things easier slide the bolt handle over it to compress the firing pin spring. Hammer in a new roll pin and you're on the home stretch.

There's a split pin in rear of the firing pin back that locks everything to keep it from unscrewing, so it's fine.

A new video is actually in the works once I get a minute. Anarchy Outdoors sent me their bolt tool, an AD arms cocking piece and new bolt handle right before hunting season and was planning on filming while I was hunting, until I forgot to pack the SD card for the Canon... 🙄 I've been pretty swamped since I got back. The Ruger American bolt is actually pretty much identical to the Ruger Precision in function, just has a nicer bolt shroud. You'll NEED a "roll pin punch" to drift out the roll pin in the cocking piece, as it has a specially shaped tip to stay centered and not mangle the roll pin. I forget the exact size off hand. ua-cam.com/video/4e8u3agMsfo/v-deo.htmlsi=owSrwjRKbQ184Umb&t=196

I did it with a brand new American following the instructions in the manual just for practice. My fault. You're not alone brother.

Same here! Brand new American Gen 2. Found this video very useful but was worried about damage using tools. So I got a piece of synthetic rope, made a loop, hooked to it and held the ends under my foot - I could use 2 hands to pull and rotate, plus no surface damage. 😀

LOL I'll be sure to share this with the guys from Anarchy.

I think the phrase is "the devil's in the details" right?

Exactly!@@macgyver5108

Perfect! I am sure they are great guys and they make nice products. Like you, if we can help someone else out we are all winners working together.@@macgyver5108

If you're not already a member... facebook.com/groups/791513284361395

Edit* after taking the firing pin out another time I didn't see anything wrong, I neglected to check clearances on the new bolt handle and the new stock I put on the barrel and action. I just ended up sanding down the edge of the stock and bolt handle that was touching and it's smooth as butter again.

Or just use the tool Ruger gave you, the bolt handle...

A bit hard to diagnose without _seeing_ the interaction of your parts but... The trigger/sear engages with the bolt/cocking piece by catching the front leading edge of the cocking piece tang on the trigger sear as you rotate the bolt closed. If the trigger sear doesn't stick up high enough into the rear of the action, no engagement, no cocking. Could also be an issue with the collar that holds the firing pin spring, if that was misaligned during reassembly it can't catch to cock the pin either.

Ruger provides a "tool" to recock the spring if it slipped out of alignment with the collar, just use the bolt handle by itself!😁 Slide the bare bolt handle over the collar on the firing pin spring and using a scrap of wood to protect the tip of the firing pin, tension the spring with the bolt handle to line up the parts correctly again.

@@macgyver5108 even though you were already very thorough, could you break this down again for me? Slide the bare bolt handle over the collar on the firing pin? Thanks again for all the help!

@@corndogegan look at an exploded diagram of the bolt and visualize where the handle sits on the firing pin assembly, it slides inline with the pin in one 🕐 clock angle along the axis, but if you rotate the handle it engages on some lobes/ears on the rear collar behind the spring allowing the collar to push the spring forwards and compress it. Follow?

@@corndogegan I suppose I _could_ make a video if push comes to shove, when I get a moment...

Yes, there's specific videos that detail that very well already. Use a "roll pin punch" not just any punch to knock out the roll pin on the pin back, unscrew the pin back while holding down the bolt handle against the firing pin assembly onto a board/wood and screw the new pin back on.

ua-cam.com/video/4e8u3agMsfo/v-deo.html

The Ruger American and Precision bolts are practically identical in most regards, except for certain things on the 2nd version of the precision bolts.

3:19

Go Ruger, or go home sad...😉

Meaning? Why can you accidentally rotate the back of the bolt? It's not exactly an "option", it's a _lack_ of an additional option to keep it from happening and last I checked most options cost money... And this is a budget rifle.

@@macgyver5108 I stored my rifle for a couple months and when I went to go use it the bolt was twisted. You saved me a headache and alot of money

@@JonRangel87 what I like to hear man, glad I could help!

Thanks Rose! And yes it does indeed! If you look at the AD cocking peice in the video, the front rides against some 45° angled "ramps" on the back of the bolt body. Because the AD part has a much smoother surface it slides over those much easier as the rifle is cocked. Something else that can help is adding a little molybdenum disulfide powder or Moly based grease to those 'ramps' and working that into the metal. Moly embeds into metal fairly permanently and it's SUPER slippery stuff! It's mostly used used for packing high speed bearings, like axle bearings ETC. It can be spendy stuff, I use Krytox by Chemours GPL 215 EP Grease which can run $30 for a little tube, but it lasts forever and also works great on the trigger sears too, to smooth out and lighten the trigger pull. A new bolt handle can also help out a LOT by giving you better leverage. The only drawback of a bolt that opens easy is it opens easy... like when you're out hunting the bolt can barely bump open a _"hair"_ and the rifle won't fire! Get in the habit of palming down the bolt handle every time you fire as a routine though and problem solved.

No worries, glad I could help. Honestly I just got tired of using a "written description" of the process in our Ruger American group... so I shot a video one day at like 3 in the morning!😁

Oh boy... Did you end up in that predicament? Do you have a scrap block of wood and a drill? ua-cam.com/video/ILLa_iEEOl8/v-deo.html

@@macgyver5108 yes, so I have the screw driver in and there is now no play to where I can manipulate the firing pin and cocking piece. Ik I'm doing something wrong

Thanks, took me a few takes! One thing that drives me _nuts_ is videos posted that either aren't in focus or worse way out of frame for key moments.

_INDEED THEY DO!_ Check out the anarchy outdoors website under Ruger American/Precision rifle parts, the RPR has the same bolt body as the American rifle line.

www.anarchyoutdoors.com/bolt-shroud-replacement-for-the-ruger-american-rifle/

@@macgyver5108 awsome! Hopefully ITAR allows for shipping here

@@macgyver5108 I just looked and they use a Canadian distributor, Go Big Tactical

@@juliogonzo2718 fantastic! Hope that works out for you and while you're at it I'd highly recommend that firing pin backing piece from AD Arms for not only reliability sake but also a _much_ smoother and lower trigger pull!

What kind of marks are on the brass afterwards? Being rough to chamber I'd expect to see some tell tales on the brass rim. Was it always this way or is this a new development?

@@macgyver5108 Hello......yes, I looked at the brass carefully, and like you, I expected a swipe mark or some sort of dent in the rim or something due to the amount of force I was using to chamber a round, but there is nothing obvious. I have not used the gun much after buying it new several years ago due to some health problems, and when I did hunt, I was using my 450 BM RAR and or my 308 or 7mm-08. In preparation for a hog hunt coming up, a friend and I were sighting in and working up some loads, and I thought finally, I will drag out the RAR 300 blk.....the bolt was sticky straight out of the box, but I watched a video by Iraqveteran8888, and they had the same problem....I figured it would work out. Again, I had put it up for some time. I wrote Ruger and asked about the problem, and they have advised me to ship them the gun for inspection....perhaps this has happened before with some of the guns from a few years ago....guess I will crate it up and we will find out......thanks

@@George1mac well it does occasionally happen, that things end up out of spec by a hair. Ruger's unheard-of customer service is why they're my preferred budget bolt action company! They'll make it right...

Thank you Sir...