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Three-phase
United Kingdom
Приєднався 26 кві 2018
Chauvin Arnoux CA6543 Insulation Tester
Taking a look at the most expensive 1000V insulation tester on offer in the UK.
CA6543 on Chauvin Arnoux Website;
catalog.chauvin-arnoux.co.uk/uk_en/c-a-6543-3611.html
AEMC Equivalent Tester 1060;
www.aemc.com/products/megohmmeters/megohmmeter-1060
0:00 Introduction
0:56 Kit Contents
2:25 Insulation Test Capability
3:44 Continuity Function Demonstration
6:04 Insulation Test Open Circuit Voltage
7:33 Insulation Test Short Circuit Current
8:58 PI Test Demonstration
11:58 Time Test Demonstration
15:35 Computer Controlled Test
18:02 Guard Terminal Demonstration
19:13 Summary
CA6543 on Chauvin Arnoux Website;
catalog.chauvin-arnoux.co.uk/uk_en/c-a-6543-3611.html
AEMC Equivalent Tester 1060;
www.aemc.com/products/megohmmeters/megohmmeter-1060
0:00 Introduction
0:56 Kit Contents
2:25 Insulation Test Capability
3:44 Continuity Function Demonstration
6:04 Insulation Test Open Circuit Voltage
7:33 Insulation Test Short Circuit Current
8:58 PI Test Demonstration
11:58 Time Test Demonstration
15:35 Computer Controlled Test
18:02 Guard Terminal Demonstration
19:13 Summary
Переглядів: 89
Відео
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Testing the inrush current accuracy of the Uni-T UT216C clamp-meter from 1A up to 5A.
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Hi. Thats a vey nice video on our CA6543 and how to operate it. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Sincere apologies you never got a UK mains lead with yours. Assuming you purchased it in the UK then it should have had one in there. If you contact us with your details I will arrange to have one sent to you. As you mention the size and cost are basically due to its very high measurement range and driving current. Both these and the isolation required to enable it to be powered from the mains and test at the same time require a large degree of physical seperation of certain parts of the circuitary. I'm told the instrument buttons are deactivated by design when the product is being remotely controlled to prevent the test being tampered with while it is underway. Oh and a USB updated version will be here soon. Anyway, thanks again. If you want to play with or review any other Chauvin Arnoux products let us know and we will lend them to you :)
Interesting. I've got a UNI-T UT512. The price of this CA6543 is prohibitive for me.
Sure is an expensive one, the cost of the apparatus I work on and the functionality of the tester justifies it for me though, but it is niche work. The UT512 will be great for the majority of work. Does lack a 100V test voltage for bearings for my work. Thanks for watching.
You do realize the AC voltage is a square wave and not a sine wave as used to calibrate multimeters ? Checking the zero value on DC voltage range by shorting your test leads is recommended. Also the test leads you are using look pretty thin and not what a calibration lab would use. Open circuit zero before measuring DC Current is needed. Even 4 wire resistance leads should be checked short circuit first. Read the operation manual for your multimeter LOL
Thanks for your comments.👍
Hey T-P, I often use my 1587 in general troubleshooting of motors, feed cables, across-the-line starters, softstarts, and vfds. Granted, a lot of what I do is "meatball surgery" compared to most motor testing. But the Fluke does well enough to determine what issue seems to be effecting the equipment. I am interested in what tests you use. I'm trying to establish more scheduled readings on our critical equipment. And would be curious to know what tests and readings you are looking for to determine a motors "health" and potential longevity. BTW, I've used a red permanent marker to circle the insulation testing points on my fluke, because I was having a similar issue as you.
The Fluke 1587 can certainly be used for general fault finding, but I find it has limitations for trending insulation and winding resistance which is what I use for establishing the condition of a motor. There are a number of options for assessing motors, and it depends on the type of motor. The more data you can trend over a period of time, gives a more informed health assessment. For a low voltage motor, online, you can use a power meter to assess the operating status, vibration monitoring, thermography and current signature analysis if you have an FFT scope or a specific analyser. For offline low voltage you can measure winding resistance, insulation resistance, capacitance, inductance, impedance. You can also plot the impedance as part of a rotor influence check, although that can be awkward on an installed motor. There is also a baker surge test for interturn faults. It is then just basic cleaning, checking mountings, connections, and cooling fan etc. For higher voltage motors, you can add partial discharge for online monitoring, this can also be done offline if you have a voltage source. For offline tests you can add in the Dielectric Absorption Ratio, Polarisation Index and Dielectric Discharge Tests. How much you can do depends on the kind of access you have around the motor and control panel. How much you want to do is a risk / cost assessment with reference to historical maintenance / failure data. There is no right or wrong answer really.
@three-phase562 Thank you, our reliability engineers have taken over the vibration and thermal monitoring. Unfortunately, the company will not spend the money for better insulation testing, telling us "you have a tool allowance". Yet a good megger unit is 2x-3x of our allowance. I am IR certified, but my department heads see no need to continue with more testing training. Thank you again for responding to my questions
@@shadowulf It depends on what your relative costs are. I used to substantiate training and test equipment for company electricians against the costs and effectiveness of contract works. It is usually quicker for site personnel to deal with failures, than bringing in contractors, so it is better to have them doing the maintenance out on site and getting familiar with the equipment. Does depend what business you are in though and how the plants operate.
@@three-phase562 That has been my argument for my superiors for a long time. Even having someone trained and on staff while a contractor is doing the testing, to me, is an assurance that the work is being done. Unfortunately, my supervisors change often. So getting anything going usually meets with varying levels of resistance.
That's alot of vde tools for the money what a value. A single wera knipex or name brand socket can be 1/4 the price of that set. Fisher price tools for poking around hot stuff fun 😁.
No Fluke meter?
No, not at the moment. I will at some point purchase one for a comparison to these. Thanks for watching.
Good to know these tools exist (at the moment I have no use for them). Thanks for another entertaining video.
Thanks for watching, VDE socket set is a bit of a niche tool.
Another great video , intrested to see the lesser brands bring this stuff in for the EV reasons , luckily I don’t but insulated tools like this as I don’t need them so this weeks video has cost me £0 , I can put the savings towards the variac I want that I don’t need
A lot of these rebrands appearing on the market now, with the majority coming from Taiwan. Price range for what is effectively the same thing is wild though.
doese it beep once short on good diode ?
No, there is no beep in diode mode.
whats the battery life? the battery life on the clamp meter is rubbish
Takes 3 AAA batteries with around 100 hours operation based on sums. I don't use the meter extensively, so I get around 18 months usage from one set of batteries.
Very nice work. I must admit I have had my doubts about how accurate these screwdrivers are, so your measurements and commentary on other practical aspect (what blades, where from, interoperability) means I just pulled the pin on buying one. Thanks.
Glad you found the video useful. Hopefully, the screwdriver works out for you okay. Thanks for watching and commenting.
For one short moment my mind went: well that week passed by quickly it is already sunday ;-). How fast is the inrush pulse?
Nah, just a little short video to help someone out. inrush pulse is set to 100 ms width.
@@three-phase562 Thanks.
Very pleasing data. I dont often need vde with my torque setups but if I did it looks like well known German brands are likely to be more reliable (wiha wera ect). Even if people have luck with worsource (aldis) screwdrivers i wont touch them for insualled work. That took some effort I applaud all the work thank you! The only torque screwdriver i use in my work is a wera torque safe and its a compromise in price and formfactor (more normal size the torque screwdriver the better). One i didnt see on your list and love to see more on but not vde is the pb swiss digital torque screwdriver. Maybe if you have a handful of non insulated you can compare with the cheap ones you have. I know vevor and a ton of other brands are the same black aluminum one.
I have seen the PB Swiss digital screwdriver, Wiha also have a digital version. Wiha is twice the price of the PB Swiss over here though. I like that you can use the standard 1/4 hex drive bits with them, makes them much more flexible to use. I generally collect the items I want to test over a period of time, as money allows. I think the Tools Tested channel reviewed a variety of non-vde torque screwdrivers, which may be worth a look.
This was a nice start for the new year. I'm always amazed by the tools you have. It gives a glimpse in an unknown world to me.
Thanks for watching and commenting 🙏🙏
What suxs is you can't check starter amp draw on a car because when the meter is out by battery and your in car turning key. So no way to find out what draw was. Unfortunately I already ordered the 208f and will now have to order this one which records and saves last 10 measurements FNIRSI DMC-100 Just wont have much use for the 208f on trucks or Boats or tractors. No saved measurements
Not sure about the HT208F as mine is the HT208D, but with that you can measure inrush and have a min/max option. Both will record the value and save it to screen for you to read, but there is no memory function to recall at a later date. As long as you don't change the function or restart the reading, you should be able to measure a start-up current for a car etc.
If u are in the car start it u need a person to hit the hold while its displaying? It should hold till u walk back out to front of vehicle?
@@HYDROMAXplus If you set the meter to measure inrush using the function button and clamp it around the wire then it will measure and hold the initial current surge for you to read when you go back to the meter. If you use the max function, then it will measure and hold each successive increase in current. You may have to set the meter to the manual range before starting the max function, as it cannot auto adjust the range in the max function.
@@three-phase562 but they told me Inrush is only AC
Hello there! and thanks for the video. I too have been eyeing this Wera set recently. A company called KS-tools sells a similar push-through ratchet set, though I doubt that one is made in Europe. Anyway, while the Wera wrench looks a bit more compact and premium, I suspect the sockets may be interchangeable -> both seem to have an 11mm hex drive (the part that goes in the ratchet). And KS do sell the sockets separately, and they have an 11mm socket too (screw side). Might be worth checking that out if you want that 11 mil.
Not heard of KS-Tools before, thanks for letting me know about them, I will check them out. Appreciate you watching and commenting.
Is this multimeter as good as fluke 87v?
Depends exactly what you want from the multimeter. The UT196, won't be as accurate or rugged as the Fluke 87V. If you are in need of calibration, then there will be no problems with the Fluke, you could get the UT196 checked, but you may not be able to have it adjusted and technical support from Uni-T will likely be minimal. On the other hand if you want to measure above 1000V, then the UT196 will be more user friendly than the 87V and more cost effective, if you are looking to buy new.
Hey there! Thanks a lot for the detailed testing! Wanted to make a question: have you tested the sensitivity of these clamps for low current in-rush loads? I was looking for the UNI-T UT202BT clamp, which meets my needs, but found contrary info about its sensitivity. On one hand, it was tested against a Fluke 316 if I recall correctly, and the Fluke correctly measured an in-rush load of 5 amps, while the 202BT didn't see it. On the other hand, another reviewer just told me that he remembers testing it with low loads and recalling it measured an in-rush load of about 1amp. I've been then looking for the 216C as an alternative -which is way more expensive here- but first wanted to be sure that it can detect low in-rush loads (<5amps). Couldn't see anything on other reviews or in specs, so perhaps you were able to run a quick test to see if the 216C correctly measures a low in-rush load. Thanks a lot for the thorough comparison!
I will have to set the test up again over the next couple of days and get back to you. I will need to verify how accurate my set up is for injecting low currents, say 1 to 5A in 1A steps.
@@three-phase562 Thanks a lot! I guess the difficult part is to generate a surge load. I've been thinking a way to generate it in the past, but in the end I always end up testing on a small fridge, which is a moderate surge load.
I have run some more tests at the weekend. \basic results for AC at 50Hz; 1A injected UT216C reads 0.4A 2A injected UT216C reads 1.4A 3A injected UT216C reads 2.4A 4A injected UT216C reads 3.0A 5A injected UT216C reads 3.8A I made a short video showing the results if you want to see the readings for yourself; ua-cam.com/video/yBLhVWDrE8s/v-deo.html Hope this helps.
@@three-phase562 People like you make UA-cam a great place. I'm going to the new video to comment there.
Really enjoy seeing this old kit works , amazing I think I saved one of these from a skip and it’s set deessingbin my studio and I have never really looked at it I just knew it was too good to throw away , I’ll gave a look at it next week
There is a bit of the old Cropico stuff around. Just picked up the resistance bridge version of this, but it has been left sat around and the batteries leaked inside. Shame they aren't looked after better. Most of mine I get off eBay as I am never in the right place when someone is throwing out the old stuff 😃😃.
Question is, do you really want to be standing next to several kV at Mhz frequencies :-)
Would could possibly go wrong 🤔🤔
My socket got stuck in sadly
That's not good to hear, Crescent do have a lifetime warranty, may be worth seeing if you can get it replaced.
Very nice to see this style (=comparing old and new apparatus) of video's. Keep on doing that and I watch every Sunday (as a matter of fact, I'll just watch every video of yours). Thanks for great sundays in 2024 and already longing for the sundays in 2025.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate your support throughout the year and all the best to you for 2025.
Thank you for the video's. And it is nice to see how functions of a couple of devices fits in one small device nowadays. Happy New Year.
Appreciate you watching and commenting, all the best to you for 2025.
🤔🤔🤔🤔
Thanks for watching.
Looks like a mixed bag for sure. I use a pedestrian brand "husky" 4 in 1 wrench in my bags "gedore" in my big bag which goes to show as long as it's something it's useful. I have a grip brand thin wrenches and thoes actually look alot nicer than mine. Thoes thin spanners actually have one big use for me and many others cheap castor's on tool chest stools and chairs. They only give you 9mm or so worth of space to jam a spanner 🔧 to tighten them so for mostly cheap furniture assembly they can't be beat. I had a bonding bushing in a electrical pannel that I needed a thin wrench for a bigger one so as long as you have something it's not a problem. That adjustable gave me bahco look to it but it's clearly inferior. We have a brand sold at plumbing supply houses "raptor" that looks and by the the handle identical. When I had it in my hand it was a wailling pile of garbage 🗑. Appreciate hearing your thoughts in some of this stuff in my head I hear it now don't do it late night on az resist the urge.
Thin spanners are handy at times, and the set from Duratech seems reasonable. I know what you mean, but I think I am going to have to pay Amazon Japan a visit in the New Year 🤣🤣.
Another good one , only cost me a set of thin duratec spinners this week . Been after some thin spanners for a while though
A slim set of spanners are a handy thing to have on occasion and these seem decent enough for the money. Appreciate the comment.
Nice video. I like the 2 ratchets with the 4 in 1. Have a great X-mas. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching, those two ratchet spanners seemed to be a decent option.
Interesting as usual. Thanks for these nice entertaining moments on Sunday. Have a good X-mas to you and your beloved ones.
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching and your support throughout the year. You and yours have an excellent Christmas too.
Thanks 🎉🎉
Thanks for watching and commenting. 🙏🙏
Good example of misleading marketing numbers: Megger seems to be better because of higher resolution. But the last digit is completely useless, as the clamp only has an accuracy of +/- 8 to 10 digits. I personally would prefer the gossen as useless numbers on a display only lead to false readings. The peak hold on the other hand would be nice sometimes!
I have noticed a few of the instrument now coming out with increased resolution, but then with an accuracy spec into double digits, which like you say makes the last digit relatively pointless. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I own the kaiweets wiha fluke santronics ect and you take thoes reading with a grain of salt 🧂. The wiha seems very accurate when I've used it. The kaiweets wasn't as successful except for a rough idea like any cheap sniffer. I was lured into it by thr sensitive mode but it was cheap enough I'll find use for it. That wiha is expensive not for everyone and its big for new of those. I too find myself to make a tool fit a bag if I like the bag enough and explore new tool options. Yes size absolutely matters when your lugging heavy or filled to the brim bags you will find something that fits your needs. Won't see thoes ancient collosal meters of yesteryear in modern bags for simple stuff. I rarely see 20v impacts or drills these days everyone is space concous for sure.
I only tend to use the NCVs for generally sniffing around cables anyway and never rely on them that much, so the sensitivity isn't a big deal for me. My Wiha unit seems to eat through the batteries, so it doesn't get used a lot especially as the battery cover is a bit of a pain to remove. I find the jobs are starting to become more complex needing a bigger variety of tools so space saving in bags is important, otherwise I have to develop another loadout with a new bag.
I was very happy to see the 1587 go in so easily even with the leads. It would be the largest meter in size that I regularly use. And looks like my 376 would fit next to it in the meter pouch. More points to sb-ld
Yes, the 1587 is quite a slender instrument and is suited quite well to the SB-LD. I don't have the 376, so could not guarantee that it will go alongside but the clamp meters that I have fitted reasonably well next to the 1587. Thanks for watching.
@@three-phase562Would the 1587 and a Fluke 89 fit inside? If so, this will eliminate another bag from daily loadout. Thanks Nevermind, I see you got an 83 to fit with it. Very encouraging
@@shadowulf Yes you can get both of those meters in the pouches. Bit more of a struggle with the leads, but they do go in. I have put a picture in a community post for you to see. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTD6q9L7q_ZowzhqBCcC83OJmgpMEjww?si=TbFyl-okPRU6dob_
I don’t know why I watched this , because no I really really want a battery tab welder , great
Man of your caliber, you could always build yourself one from an old microwave transformer!
@@three-phase562 i have a rule i never mess with microwave transformers
That MIC2511 is expensive would indeed be a treat. Thanks for this video.
Unfortunately, when you start looking at the higher test voltages, the price does start to go upwards ☹☹. Thanks for watching!
I have the T handle socket driver.
Good to know you are a Beta tool user. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Think I'll stick to Fluke and MK non contact testers, those look a bit hit and miss.
They are a little bit touchy to use, the Kaiweets is a bit more stable than the Bside. Some of it was down to the PRV240FS cutting out as well. I should probably set up a better experiment with them really. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What are the tolerances to check how sensitive they are, before they react.. would it be a V/m value.. checked some of my units a year or two back... and and it was mostly clamp meters and DMMs with their NCV. and the most sensitive one, I recall was Unit210E clamp meter... though did it with very limited radiation tools.. I got the impression that my unit T 210E clamp meter for its NCV triggered around 100 V/m it was based on a cheap Erick Hill EF/MF/RF radiation meter but it was very consistent.. Dont these dedicated NCV meters/pens got rating for their electric field tolerances, for how sensitve they are, as that can really matter for unit to unit, and almost make a given NVC useless if its either to sensitivce or wont pick up live wires..
Yes, the sensitivity would likely be a measurement of the electric field strength in V/m. I have never seen any NCV pen with a sensitivity specification though in their operating sheets. I can't even find a specification for the voltage sense function for my Keysight U1282A. It just seems to be an add on function for general use with no defined parameters. You could set up a little test and measure the activation distance from a constant source instead of the haphazard approach I adopted in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I would use it if there's nothing else around, but I would be weary of it. Thanks TP👍👍
Always a bit of a concern with these cheap NCV pens. Thanks for watching TETC.
Some great work there, detailing the testing of a global temperature system. When you factor in the uncertainty of measurement for just the meter and temperature sensor, its quite an eye opener.
Yes, I do have a little chuckle when I have tight accuracy requirements with the transmitters and then you look at the actual sensor itself. In theory, the sensor should be linear though so you can calibrate out its discrepancy. Thanks for watching.
@@three-phase562 Perhaps that might be an interesting topic for a future video. The "global error" that is never referred to by manufacturers of sensor & transmitter systems is almost a science in itself! Applying uncertainty of measurement to measured data, and then trying to explain to non-technical customers was something I always found challenging!
@@scottshaw1310 Added to the list, I will see if I can put something together. I have purchased a little HMI/PLC to play with so may be able to utilise that although I have to learn to program it first. Thanks for the idea.
Hurricane is the brand i always see when i do see them. Ive even had my hands on the aldis models and its literally the same. Still wouldn't trust my life with these and ive seen tips on such made of butter steel. I guess its hit or miss if they made the chinesium right but its a very cheap way to get started with some screwdrivers vde or not.
It should be good with having the independent VDE certification, but it is a highly cloned set of drivers. Will be interesting to see how the last in the long run, only one way to find that out though.
I have a chinese knockoff set that is even more expensive ...
There are just so many of these types of sets around now, it is easy to get caught out.
I picked up the 3/8" drive mini ratchet. The mechanism jams easily with moderate torque. I was expecting better.
Sorry to hear that, I haven't had any issues with mine. Spec sheet says they are good for 245 Nm, so I wouldn't expect any problems. Thanks for sharing, so others are aware.
How are they holding up i need some new calipers but don't really want to spend the money on mutitoyo ones
Calipers are doing fine, but I have only had them for a couple of months, so no long term perception from me.
I appreciate the amount of work you put in these video's. I have all the small calibrators you've mentioned never did thermocouple management, so I learned quite a lot. Thank you.
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching and commenting.
d - please consider changing your user name, your current name makes it incredibly hard to search for you on UA-cam but as a subscriber and as a none subscriber as it’s quite a common term , life recommend your channel to people and I allways end up sending a link as you can’t be searched easily , top video again
Yeah, I think it was mentioned before. If you search for three-phase562, that is the handle UA-cam have given me and it will find the channel. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video as always! keep it up im asking if you can review UNI-T UT117C or UT15B/UT17B/UT18B MAX, i heard they are pretty rugged and does awesome job
I don't have any of those meters, so would need to go out and purchase. I know Darren Walker did do a review of the UT117C, that may be of help to you. ua-cam.com/video/7mB5jIO4uz4/v-deo.htmlsi=ES2CAL_c-raoRnN3 Thanks for watching and commenting.
Interesting cold junction compensation method there. I've only used the internal CJC on the meters and the few PLCs with thermocouple inputs I've dealt with have the cold junction module for them. One of the cooler thermocouple things I have seen was at SpaceX's McGregor test site years ago. They had a lot of thermocouples hooked up to a rocket engine on the test stand and the Phoenix blocks were made of the same metals the wires were, so you didn't introduce any junctions to effect the temperature. These were local thermocouples connected to DAQ systems and ran the thermocouple wire all the way to the input on the DAQ. But of course you can't have a bunch of TCs with 400 foot leads, so they had the Phoenix blocks to connect too. First and only time I ran across that type of Phoenix block. Thought that was pretty cool and clever. Although probably pretty common knowledge if you deal with TCs all the time. Any TC I have had to replace I have had to run the whole length back to the PLC or controller.
Using the interna compensation would be the usual way to do it, I just wanted to show what they compensation was effectively doing. If you have the luxury of using specific thermocouple types then you can use the compatible terminal blocks, but they are mighty expensive. Unfortunately, these little meters can measure multiple types of thermocouples, so they just have standard jacks and rely upon the cold junction compensation.
@@three-phase562 Yeah, was interesting to see you do the cold junction and try to bring it to 0C.
How to purchase tool
They are available on the Amazon and eBay sites. If they aren't available on your local Amazon, you can create an account on Amazon Japan and order from there.
Where is manual pdf
@@ytshorts1353 Sorry, I am not aware of a manual.