Відео

sir that mouse serial number has GAY at the end, and its called China Mouse. need I say more?

i enjoy restoration videos and repairing retro electronic devices, the funny part is that the level is physically built in this machine. you've earned my subscription. keep it up

Im trying to figure out what a small diameter threaded connector is called so I can screw some regular F coax cable to the much smaller male coax connector on the bottom of my cell phone booster. does anyone know what that size of connector is called?

Maannn I never thought to use a latex glove for grip on stripped screws I’m over here thinking e z grip is the only solution

I got mine fixed at a place in Springfield, NJ.

I have a similar problem and this helps me know what’s wrong a little better. Thanks

I know this wasn't meant as a tutorial but it was really helpful as I learnt that my n64 is not the issue and that my 220 ohm resistor on the power supply was faulty. Thanks.

same problem with mine those 2 resisters. i used a old broken PlayStation to fix those resisters they were slightly bigger but worked lol

The washer is meant for attaching the Master System's official adapter, along with the Japan-exclusive Mega Modem.

The level of fear fo electricity makes me laugh... but im an gen-x'er who grew up taking apart more dangrous things for fun.. "can i fix it"... got a free tv by replacing a cap that blew with one out of a busted clock radio ;) good stuff and fun times... some how, im still alive and well despite a few nice shocks.. and a lack of fear or electronics exploding.. more a "damn, i gotta replace that too now" LOL (the part of the unit itself.. sometimes everyy part you replace shows anothr failed cap.. ends up being easier to recap the whole thing then just keep following the chains... a tip with this for anybody who has to do this repair, use a non-surface mount ver of this same psu component and just solder the legs to the pads... also makes replacing it easier if it fails again ;) surface mount stuff this size is a pita if you jack a hot air table.

Возможно, 11 вольт недостаточно для запуска. У меня на руках блок питания выдаёт 11,19 вольт и приставка не запускается.

I only looked this up so that I could kinda mimic this tech with a record that crams audio on one side and video on another side to produce movies on records.

The voice over reminded me walter white jr.😂

Wow, thanks. I had exactly the same error with exactly the same resistor. Thanks to you, I was able to save my power supply unit.

Interesting and helpful mate, cheers.

Surface mount soldering tip - Clean the old solder off and apply new to one side only. Then when you mount the new component and apply heat to that side it sits flat immediately, then solder the other side.

i have an n64 that has no audio or video will this fix the problem on the system i have

PLZ clean your tip and use some flux, those joints look so dry :(

nice video, I have a question for you, would it be possible for you to measure the value of the ZD101 zener diode in the power supply?😊😊

That PSU was just plugged in. Check the voltage in the capacitors before you put your hands in it. You definitely should NOT be testing them 8:50 into the video.

Love the vids but the thumbnails make it impoissible for me to figur out which video I had watched before since the thumbnail includes a red border and the indicator how much you watched of the video is also a red line on the bottom

dude shouldve used a bit of tape -__- this would've been less of a pain in the ass

Cheers for the video - gave me an idea what to expect if I buy a faulty N64 power supply in the hope of fixing it. One trick that might help soldering small surface mount components with an iron is to have one pad tinned and the other wicked clean so you can lay the component flat, then you can move the component into place with tweezers while keeping the solder molten on your tinned pad. Once it's in place, remove the iron and hold the component steady while the solder cools. Then you just need to add solder to the other pad(s).

Can I please send you some of my systems? I have many Game Boys on which the start button activates again when released on certain titles (such as R-Type and Mario & Yoshi), can you please fix them? Thanks

2:53 The LED connector is soldered directly to the motherboard, if you had kept pulling on it you would've broken it off.

Really enjoyed your video! You should maybe look into getting a "third hand", so you have something that holds parts for you, while you work on them.

Outstanding video. Very clear and well made. Learned a lot especially on the 64 power supply. Glad I found your channel! Looking forward to more. Better music than Vince! 😅 Perhaps a revisit in the future if you figure out something...👍

Button B can be jumped to pin 2 on the cpu

Awesome job on that power supply!! I really enjoyed how in-depth you went with it!! For the N64, pull the cartridge slot out and clean underneath it. They are usually filthy and it could be causing your issue. I have a n64 tear down video on my channel and under the cartridge slot was super dirty!! Here’s the link if you want to check it out ua-cam.com/video/ATdFuR6NNrI/v-deo.htmlsi=W_nyN3zIk3jKJNQY Hope you get it up and running!!🐺😁

Hey dude, not sure if you're aware but you can pull the main cartridge slot straight off once it's unscrewed. It's amazing how much dirt and debris builds up under there. Could be your issue. Thanks for running through the power supply issue, that was super interesting.

'Promosm' 👀

Hope your channel grows. Clear display, easy to listen to and slow enough pace to follow along with. Keep it up!

Do yourself a favor and get some Deoxit and lint-free swabs. Q-tips and vinegar are just awful to work with, not to mention probably not great for your electronics.

You have va4 board, Which is the launch/first board revision for Pal region.

Love the videos but please get a new Multimeter :D That noise is god awful

instead of reflowing the chips, you should first check for loose pins, not saying reflowing all the pins is bad, but IMO its best to find the fault first so it'll help in fixing others, the games are old so there is a high chance for cold solder joints

Came across your videos the other day - keep up the fantastic work!

The production quality in your videos is great!

Great Video!

THANKS! You surely encouraged my pursuit of reviving my Akur SD-050, yet another of these early Hanimex style consoles from the 1970s. Your system does not (yet) have the cartridge slot, only supports the 10 Pong variants (as installed in PC-501). The SD-050 allowed to insert cassettes with different games, everyhing else on my console looks very similar to your older device. I am fighting TWO issues: like your system the HF output is currently miserable: our German consoles operate at 55MHz (channel 2, PAL color). My video is distorted, blurry with fringes, hardly playable. So far I have NOT opened the console or its RF shield, but will follow your advice to replace the coaxial cable and maybe peek inside the RF box. Also there seems to be a fairly easy 'hack' to obtain the pure video output signal, to feed it into a SCART or other composite TV connector? It would be a clear improvement, circumventing the analog HF signal processing altogether. My biggest nightmare: I am the (currently not so proud) owner of the famous and ultra-rare cartridge PC-503, "tank battle"! Of all my cassettes this one does not play when inserted into the otherwise totally functional base. So something on the cassette's PCB has given up. I peeked inside and of course it resembles what you see as your 'game' electronics: 20 diodes around the main IC, 20 resistors, a handful of caps. Soldering was done mediocre in Hong Kong back then, but seems OK. I suspect the 4.7mF polar caps to have dried up. Not being an electronic wiz I will take it from there, and from ample supplies of old electronic elements of my late father's TV repair shop, hundreds of tiny boxes full of 'stuff': transistors, ICs, caps, connectors; you name it, I got it.. Any ideas how to proceed on the dead tank game? What to check, where to measure? If running again it will be a blast: the early programmers back in 1977 made a booboo with PC-503: not only the tanks could be moved around by the joystick, but also the ammunition after firing it! Meaning you literally had cruise missiles to send around the corners, to hit your enemy even BEHIND the obstacles, AFTER firing them off your tank! It was AWESOME, and I still remember it. 40+ after playing this game, a Xmas present by my parents when I was a youngster. Thanks for showing your repair! And congrats for having your console back alive and running! Wish me luck..

Front camera on range rover coax cable broken at plug. Need to try and fix but failing that its a cable that I don't really wanna replace if i can avoid it. Great vid

Please use some flux while soldering, nice video btw :)

Your son has no idea how hard it will be to mantain that achievement once he reaches drinking age.

Hey, you explained the Coax cables very well. Keep up the good work.

Awesome video. Nicely explained for all to understand. I had to learn by fixing my parents' house as they had a TV in every corner of the house!!

No audio?

Nice video! I just watch ( borderline OCD) try a repair on this. He didn't have success but hopefully a revisit!

That screen still looks good after so much time.

Would such a powerjack be available anywhere?

That was en easy one this time ;-)