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The bird's nesting on these machines is almost always a broken tension cup. They are plastic and when they break the machine does not release tension when the presser foot is up. If the tensioner isn't released when the presser foot is up then the thread can't go between the tension discs during threading and the upper thread will have 0 tension, creating bird's nesting problems. The broken tension cup is an easy fix.

@ that's exactly what I would've thought. But it's not the case on one. I'm having a fight with right now. I'm wondering if I've got the wrong Bobin spool.

The wiring from the lamp to the motor is usually about 8" (~20cm), the cord from the controller should be about 5ft (~1.5m), and the wall plug should be minimum 5ft, but 6ft is nicer (~1.5 to 2m). If you are only doing one machine then getting one or two cheap extension cords from the dollar store is a great way to get wire. The plug is molded on the end and they're much cheaper than wire by the foot at a hardware store. These machines did not come with polarized plugs and even after polarized plugs were common on other household appliances they did not appear on many sewing machines until recently when all plugs were required to be polarized. The new plugs I get are polarized, but the body of these machines is not "grounded" to the electrical system, so it isn't necessary to check the polarization.

Yes, if the tensioner isn't properly threaded then you can spend hours with frustration and poor stitching.

This has a standard clutch nut system on the handwheel. If the wheel turns freely and the machine does not move when bobbin winding, tighten the center knurled nut in the handwheel to re-engage the rest of the machine. If the machine won't turn with that nut tightened you will need to clean and oil it. You should be able to easily turn the machine by hand when you are tightening that knurled nut in the middle of the handwheel.

The 1140 is another fine model from China. They are getting very good and offer so many beautiful and well made options now.

Unfortunately that machine left my bench several months ago. When you clean the old grease out of a machine sometimes the goo can move around and it can require a few cleanings to get things moving properly again. If you pulled the gears out for cleaning then you will need to re-time & adjust the cam followers to get all the stitches correct. That can be a fiddly job. I typically start with the followers and get those following one cam at a time before I go to the cam timing.

Yep, the screws on top and the bobbin winder is right there. When you get the new tire on you may need to adjust the winder a bit so it is moving the tire against the handwheel reliably.

all of the tiny models require patience. It turns out that they don't make 1/10th size gasoline and air molecules for 1/10th scale engines so getting the fuel mix *exactly* right is more and more important as engines get smaller.

The button in the center of the stitch length is the reverse stitch button, so you'll need to be able to press that for reverse stitching. This machine can use metal or plastic class 66 bobbins and uses 15x1 needles (the standard size). Universal needles and any brand of Class 66 bobbins should work well in this machine.

I would use the plastic 66 bobbins and any generic bobbins and Universal 15x1 needles should work well to get started. 15x1 is the most common and generic needle size. What kind of stitch problems do you have?

This is a 6mm wrench plug (a smaller plug than the 1/4" model plugs in my other model engines) and the smallest plugs for small engines are 1/2" which is about the bore of this little model.

And if you don't mind how much the hp and tq????

The 1140 is a model of a Chinese portable engine that is very common. I have no idea what the fractional horsepower or torque of this little model is. The plug is the newest model plug that the Chinese engines have available, a 6mm wrench fits them (the next size up is a 1/4" plug). The engine specs can be seen on enginediy.com and you can use the link in the video description for a discount if you buy one.

@@henrybangsberg2187 thanks for the detailed man👍👍👍

What kind of hinges does your cabinet have? Replacements of the lollipop style that Singer (and many other cabinets used) are readily available from Central Michigan Sewing Supplies and Amazon. Those are big and round and visible from the top. The hidden hinges that mount underneath came in a variety of styles and there are *some* new replacements available for a few of those styles on Central Michigan Sewing Supplies and some cabinet makers (check with Amish furniture makers, they repair & make lots of sewing cabinets). You'll need to take a photo of the mounting area on the cabinet and match the hinge mounting area for exact replacements. For hinges that are not still in production you can check ebay and etsy for vintage salvaged hinges. If you can't find replacement hidden hinges and don't mind modifying your cabinet, the lollipop style hinges can be retrofitted to many cabinets with missing hidden hinges. You can use a forstner drill bit or router to make the hole for the lollipop and install them with machine screws and blind nuts which will clamp them in place instead of depending on wood screw threads.

​@@henrybangsberg2187Thank you so much for your reply. The hinges are mounted underneath. It sounds like this might be pretty complicated! 2:21

@@karenc8813 The hidden hinges can be harder to work on. There are a few videos out there, but cabinet repair is more of a woodworking project than a sewing project so many of those videos are under woodworking tags in youtube.

yes, water sealing loctite is also a good option. My carb elbow also leaked from misalignment, but I haven't sealed it in a permanent way because I want to be able to remove it easily. I have it all arranged in the perfect spot and will put a drop of oil on it occasionally to make sure it is still sealed (if it's got a vacuum leak it will draw the oil into the joint)

Black shrink tubing is a great idea. I will have to use that on some of my other plugs. The R18 arcing is so severe that the ignition lead will also jump sideways to the water hopper. I had to use the piece of fuel tubing because when I insulated the plug better the first time, the arc just reliably jumped to the hopper until I put the full length tubing on to force it back through the plug. The fuel tube with E6000 glue to hold it on the insulator has worked for about a year.

I'm a car guy but I think you are on the right track with heat shrink vs fuel tube. Anything will conduct electricity when the voltage is high enough. Make sure *everything* hands, spark plug, wire, heat shrink etc. is clean and DRY before applying the heat shrink. A short piece and a long piece over that. Dry is hard to do on something that works best when dripping with oil, but brake cleaner is your friend. The other thing I'm wondering is how the ignition source is grounded to the engine? Does it use a 9V battery and only the plug wire comes through the wooden base? I would think grounding the ignition source to the engine itself would also be important. Never done this in miniature stuff so... Just watched again with the resolution cranked up so I could enlarge the image. I think all your issues are at the plug. The plug has a weird end on it. Since the plug wire is metallic I would cut the end off flush, and screw a tiny copper or brass screw into the wire. Then use the heat shrink to pull the screw tight to the plug. It should solve all your problems. 😊

I had that issue with this engine too. Check that your piston sleeve is sitting proud of the cylinder so that the head is sealing against the piston sleeve and not against the brass cylinder shell. I have wrapped thread around the piston sleeve behind the top ring on several engines to provide the small amount of shim to keep the piston sleeve from sinking too far down into the outer housing. I also used some black silicone gasket sealant when I installed the piston liner to make sure that the water does not leak out of the reservoir.

The replacement pins are plastic and currently about $2 each. Just take the lid off and push any broken off bits out from the inside (it should be a tapered hole that the pin sits in). You can also make spool pins from chopsticks, some have tips that are *just right* to fit in the taper hole.

@henrybangsberg2187 You're absolutely right! I don't know if it was supposed to be filled with some pink substance, but I was able to remove all the remanence from the inside. Thanks again! I'll be purchasing a new pin soon. I'm trying to learn how to use the machine to sew and I have a good idea of how to do back stitching, where the tension mechanism is and the widening of stitchs. My current issue is with the bobbin getting jammed, breaking the stitches, and the stitches just falling apart. Maybe it's the bobbin I'm using? It pulls out like five threats as I'm trying to remove it and their all kinda torn apart. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I currently run my seminar in Chicago at Pumping Station One, a maker space. The next one is Tuesday, Jan 7th, 2025 at 7pm

Where did you buy your HM-01 from? service@enginediy.com has been very helpful with all my engines. I had extensive ignition issues with my R18 when I first got it but the HM-01 has proved particularly hard on ignition modules. I still have not gotten back to fix it again.

0:47 to 1:36 is a Rumely Oil Pull with a custom built wood cab. I don't know exactly what model it is, but it is one of the later small designs because it has stamped steel frame rails and a tank above the radiator on the front. The earlier tractors that size used steel beam frames like the original big Oil Pull tractors. The steam engine that follows at 1:37 is a Rumely Universal. The steam engine was built before Rumely merged with Advance Thresher to be Advance Rumely.

@@henrybangsberg2187 G'day, thank you so much for the info, never seen one before, once more thanks Mate!

There should be 2 or 3 screws on the top cover and a single screw in the end holding a cover over the lamp. Removing the end cover and top cover will allow you to oil everything on top. If the machine is still moving, a drop of oil on every moving area while it runs will get enough oil everywhere on top. Down below there are a couple covers on the bottom of the machine and you can remove them carefully, clean thoroughly, and apply a drop of oil to every place that looks like it moves down there too. Cleaning the machine is mostly about the bobbin area. Open the bobbin cover and remove the needle plate. Then remove the bobbin case (a small finger on the upper left should move out of the way for the black case to lift out) and then you can brush the dirt and lint out of that entire area.

@@henrybangsberg2187 That's amazing, thank you!

I'll have to examine that more closely if I have another auto-reel/Touch & Sew self winding mechanism to deal with again. I replaced the bobbin and it seemed to work properly.

The "Heavy Duty" is a bit of a misnomer. The 44xx series is FASTER than other machines, not sturdier. The modern Singer HD line is about 2x as fast as other machines and might be 3x as fast as this Kenmore. Unless you need lots of stretch and decorative stitches a good vintage machine is probably a better fit for most beginner sewing needs, more reliable, and less expensive than any new machine.

@@henrybangsberg2187 As a beginner seamster I doubt I can go faster than 300rpm... 🙂

@@ran2wild370 Yes, old Kenmores & Vikings make great starting machines because you can get some great slow speed control for learning.

I grew up sewing on my mom's brown Viking and can't stand to let these get thrown out. I probably spend too much time and effort, but they're such fantastic machines and will last another 30-50 years once they're oiled up and have a few new parts.

I use a 3AA pack and installed a yellow ignition unit from the Enjomor that works with 4.5v. The original ignition unit for the HM-01 is a 6v minimum unit and I have had some of them work with 4.5v but they prefer 6v. I know a lot of folks use a dummy battery in their 3AA packs to run the modules on 3v (2AA & 1 dummy) but I have not had any issues using the packs as supplied with my engines.

I have tried running it a bit rich but I get it flooded out. I am still experimenting with the smallest I can have the throttle body closed as well. I could probably run it on a bit thicker oil/fuel mix to slow it down, but the fuel line is not removable for cleaning so I don't want to be building up oil residue in the fuel tank.

yes, the shingles from that home built mill are tapered like commercial shingle mills make. The taper helps the shingles pattern better on the roof and the weight in the thick end is necessary to help hold them down since they are only secured on the thin end.