Відео

Set the stitch length for the largest setting, then the block will rotate as much as it can. From the back, watch the block while you push the reverse button, then you will know how much you can push it back. You can also reach in with your finger and push the block back and forth. It needs a lot of wiggling and oiling. The Viking in this video was loose when I made the video yesterday, but had gotten sticky again this morning and needed more oil, heat, and wiggling to free it up. I will be checking on it each morning until it stays free for 2 or 3 days. That is how you will know that all the old gunk is worked out of the reverse block.

@@henrybangsberg2187 The reverse button on the front doesn't move at all. I pushed the block on the back and on the front the reverse button game out. There is on the left side of the block and spring a black metal vertical shank, which prevents pushing the block backwards. Or can I still push? Sorry to bother you. I will look it tomorrow.

@@P.S.333 As long as you push the reverse button in and then push back on the spring hook the reverse block cannot move too far in the wrong direction.

🤝🤝🤝

I did not. The motor also had issues. I got the machine to start turning by hand, but the motor would not run. From other reviews the cam stack can be an interesting project to replace, but when you get in there you need to check ALL the other plastic parts too since these machines are old enough that the plastics have just expired and are all failing.

I make dice bags for fun to give away at gaming conventions. It's an easy activity that fits the space, time, and attention I have for sewing.

My surname is Norwegian and I grew up in an area of Wisconsin with lots of Norse immigrants. The reverse block is hidden inside these Husqvarna Viking machines and hard to show. Luckily, I have another similar machine on my bench right now and I can try to make a detailed video of the reverse mechanism as I free this one up. I will try to have that available soon.

Here is a detailed view of the reverse block on the 6440 Viking I have on my bench right now. It was stuck yesterday, but after a bit of oil and moving it back and forth it is free now. ua-cam.com/video/qtOeFDzFj-k/v-deo.html

@@henrybangsberg2187 Hi, I will watch that later. It's over midnight here now, so need to go to sleep.

My ignition units are dying in this engine. I test them on the bench and test them using the trigger contacts on the HM-01 before I install them, but then they quit working. Even after they're removed, they no longer function. I am going to be trying a few things when I get my workshop area set up again, but it's very mystifying that this engine seems to be frying ignition units suddenly.

There were two Rumely steam engines in the compilation.

You'll have to check the NIHPA.org website for the dates. I am not a club member, it's just a show that is near where I live.

The high speed lever bracket got a redesign because so many were breaking. I hope you get the new one. I removed my high speed lever because I think the engine looks better without it and I don't run mine full speed. It's too bad you got a sloppy crank. Mine was a tight fit in the blocks and had to run in for a bit before it was settled in and running smoothly.

I don't believe that the Stylist 833 has a Darning lever to drop the feed dogs so the adjustment for them would be underneath. First, have you cleaned the feed dogs thoroughly? Lint and thread can get packed into the feed dogs under the needle plate and prevent the feed dogs from rising through the plate. If you're sure the feed dogs are clean and *can* rise through the needle plate then the adjustment for how high they go is underneath the machine. There is a cam that has a set screw to determine how far up they go.

I was only aware of the US Co-Op deal with Farmers Union out of the Twin Cities since it was an evolution of an earlier deal with the Chrysler powered Co-Op tractors built in the Twin Cities and sold through Farmer's Union Co-Ops.

@@henrybangsberg2187 I think does Chrysler powered Co-op's are proberbly from a different company, the ones made by Cockshutt where the E series.

Ah, was the Handiman based on the 2 wheel walk behind then? I know that many 2 wheel tractor makers built odd ride-ons because they were re-using existing drivetrain parts. I thought that one of the David Bradley tractors was related to another in that way.

@@henrybangsberg2187 that could be it, I think they used either parts from the 2 wheel models or they just beefed it up a little. Did ya know that in Switzerland there are still 2 wheel tractor manufactures but those where and are mostly for farmers and Counties, the brands are Rapid and Aebi. Rapid was founded in 1926 and I think they still have that partnership with Gravely for a model Rapid makes for them.

@@goatfarmmb two wheel tractors were and remained more popular in Europe & elsewhere in the world. The US just has so much space that nobody really worries about the small "one horse" fields that a 2 wheel tractor farms well.

@@henrybangsberg2187 we used normal tractors too we only used our Aebi Sickle bar walk behind for mowing green feed and side hills that where to steep with a tractor or the old trusty Scythe ;)

I got a few cams with it and passed them all on to the new owner of the machine. I fix machines to give away in my community, so someone got very lucky with this donation!

All the advice on these style of carbs says they should be tuned on the high speed needle first and the low speed needle after the high speed needle is dialed in. Unfortunately, with no governor, trying to adjust the high speed needle first is unsafe since you can only run them on high speed for short periods without risking serious damage.

There isn't an easy way to get it apart, but if it's moving it is easy to get it freed up. Take it off the machine and remove the rubber tire. It should just be held on with one screw (there may be a spring behind the screw). Once it's off the machine, put the shaft where the bobbin goes in a cordless drill. With the bobbin winder chucked up in the drill you can apply oil and penetrating fluid while you spin it with the drill. The spinning and oiling will wash all the old goop out of it until it spins freely again. If it's seized up completely, you can dip it in a pot of boiling water to heat it up. The water won't be hot enough to hurt the finish, but it will warm the whole piece up enough to help melt the goo inside. Then take the hot part and apply oil and penetrating fluid so it will draw that as it cools. A few heat, oil, cool cycles will usually free them up enough to spin with a drill and finish oiling it up until it spins freely again. Removing the tire keeps it from getting all oily and having to clean the oil off so it will turn the bobbin winder.

@@henrybangsberg2187 Thanks for the response. Good idea, I'll give it a try.

Yeah, I love seeing the things people invented when a technology was new and nobody had decided what it was or how it should work. Early lightbulbs, cars, tractors, and computers all have strange and weird examples of uniquely specific ideas to solve one problem. The Square Turn solves the problem of unplowed areas in a field from turning a traditional tractor very well, but it's not very good at lots of other stuff people decided to use tractors for. The horse replacement tractors are a similar thing. They replaced horses very well, but weren't good at other stuff people discovered tractors could be used for.

I'm not certain why North American steam tractors never got cladding. J.I. Case, the world's largest manufacturer of steam traction engines, never offered it as an option that I know of. My guess is that the cost, weight, and maintenance of cladding made it hard to sell in North America since steam locomotives had abandoned it here before portable and traction steam engines were available. We also never had a need for European-style plowing engines with a windlass since the prairies have plenty of room for steam engines to drive around pulling plows.

@@henrybangsberg2187 OK Thanks for answering. It would increase the cost and weight of the engine so that could well be the reason why.

I don't know if this specific one is available, but many plastic Singer hook drive gears are still available.

They aren't well advertised. I check here for US/Canada shows and there are similar blogs devoted to tracking shows in Europe and elsewhere. antiquetractorblog.com/events/

@@henrybangsberg2187 thanks man

That era of white did come with cheap foot controllers, but you can replace the foot controller with anything you like. Modern electronic controllers can give excellent results on old machines. You should be able to get the presser foot tension adjusted, the springs are strong, but most of the machines I have found with strong presser foot springs have a secondary adjustment inside the head that has been set too high. I don't know why they get shipped at max setting, but once you lower the secondary adjustment the main presser foot pressure adjustment will give an excellent find adjustment.

@@henrybangsberg2187 Thanks for the tip. Went to look and indeed at the top the spring is secured and tensioned by a threaded sleeve with a slot to rotate it. I did unscrew it until it hit the top cover, it's already much less tension in the spring. I will probably remove the sleeve and shave it a bit at the bottom to reduce its length.

Yeah, I got the 1140 in the mail and haven't had a chance to get back to figuring out the ignition on the HM-01 yet. I have a few things to try, but may be looking at microswitches in the future.

it's working out from the main bearings. It settled down and stopped leaking after the oil level reduced itself. I will be checking the oil pump area over at some point, but the initial fill of oil I put in the engine was clearly too much. The manual says 10ml, but I only put in about 8ml, and when I inspected the sump after the first run in I found it was down to 3 or 4ml left.

yes, the instructions never seem to have correct quantities on them. I didn't even look up the "correct" fill in the instructions because none of my other engines have had proper quantities for fill either. I took the back cover off the engine and filled it a bit above the lip of the cover hole. Guessing from the oil bottle I used I put just under 10ml in and also had oil spraying out of both main bearings for the first part of the engine run. I will be opening the cover to inspect the sump after the maiden run and have a video reporting on my findings. I prefer over-filling the engine for the first run because then I know oil is getting into the main bearings and everywhere else it seeps and sprays from. Once I've got an engine run in and I trust it not to be leaking oil I will use a lower fill level and rely more on the oil in the fuel for lubrication. Modern oils are very durable and effective, so you don't need much once you get oil on everything for the first time.

I missed the small window when the real diesel mill engine was for sale. They pulled it after some issues and are trying to redesign it to bring it back to market. Yes, all the companies are related and work together on diffrent designs because I think they all own different manufacturing facilities so if one company has a design, but not the best equipment to manufacture it, they team up to bring it to market. They have gotten so good at making such beautiful little works of art that it is hard to resist them.