Відео

This fixed my wife’s vehicle! I used a straw and cut it to size lol. Her brake lights no longer stay on and she can use cruise control again!

Worked. Thank you.

my issue is that my brake lights are on all the time, and when i hit the pedal they go off..but then come on again at random. Then im also suddenly getting this Stabiltrak crap at the same time and my car is shutting down. Im told Stabilitrak may kick off since the car thinks im on the brakes all the time and this will also affect cruise control but i dont have any codes other than a bad CAT and ive had that for a year. Im gonna go swap it soon and hope it helps

Something tells me you know about process control

Which 2 terminals do we touch together?

Just did this fix and so far so good. Was intermittent but happened very often. noticed plastic fork was a little worn but metal pin had huge flat spot in it. Put on shrink tube and ceramic caliper grease.

Touch what two terminals together?

My directions say it has to be in smoke mode to change. There is 5 pause settings each button push goes up one setting to make it run cooler

Link to small catch can?

I tried this in my 2007 gmc Acadia and lights keep on staying on any suggestions would be mostly appreciated.

You have to change the pcv valve every 50k miles

I did it on my and I still not readying correctly the level I already disconnected the batteries and same

Very cool.

How did you calibrate your round prob thermostat

Thank you for your help

yiu need test ultra sonuc fuke guagr

Great job

MILLION THANKS,,WAS DRIVING ME CRAZY..........DONT FORGET THAT YOU HAVE TO RELEARN THE SENSOR POSITION AFTER REPLACING,,,,MINE WAS TURNING ON AFTER DEPRESSING THE BRAKE,,AFTER THE RELEARN IT WORKS NORMAL,,YOULL NEED A SCANNER FOR THIS,,,,

How long has this fix worked for? Very nice fix 👍🏼

Oh, man I have been searching looking for a fix for the problem for the longest, wow. Thank you. I am going to do this tmw. I thought it was the speed sensors I replace in the front, no go. So, my next move was to replace the back two, but I will hold off and try your fix wow, thanks a lot.

@0:54, you said the system pulls air from the intake air hose into bank2 engine valve cover, I thought it was the other way around. The blowback air is coming from bank2 valve cover to the intake hose that get pull back through the throttle body and that is why oil is accumulate in the intake hose between the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor. So at idle, if I am correct, air is suck in from the intake hose through the bank2 PCV valve, but when the car is accelerating, oil is getting blown back to the intake hose. I thought that hose was only for blow back air/oil that connect to bnk2 to the intake hose.

Hey, On my traverse, the OCC (oil cat can) is attached to the PCV valve hose coming from the engine bank2 to the air intake hose(A LOT OF OIL IS COMING FROM THAT HOSE INTO THE INTAKE HOSE, AND THEN SUCK BACK INTO THE ENGINE MESSING UP THE THROTTLE BODY) So. I will need a second OCC to connect to the breeder hose bank1 side to the top of the manifold, yes?

What size tubing did you use?

I installed a oil catch can on my motorcycle and that made me a believer in using one. I was considering installing one on my 2017 traverse but when I removed my intake to inspect it, it was bone dry. It doesn't seem like I have any blow by. I'm sure it would still benefit my Traverse, so we'll see.

I have the same controller and mine doesn’t have that button

iam trying this now ,, my traeger reads to hot ,, i want to lower the temp ,, the opposite of what you are doing,,, ps did this work for you and did you figure out if this is the p setting controlle

U have the in an out lines backwards.pcv line should go where u have the deep stick.and intake manifold in the other side.

Drilling bigger holes on the breather as well installing the new gasket will fix this issue permanently

Your set up, will that work on a 2010 traverse?

I had an older one which had the button in the same spot which you could access to add more pellets for extra smoke, it would say p-1, etc when you pressed it, I wonder if this is the same idea for this one. I have a newer one which is a couple of years old which is like the one demonstrated.

I don't think that you should have blocked the air flow to the throttle body intake boot by installing the smaller one backwards. Even if a little oil gets blown that way, the catch can will catch the oil and keep it out of the boot.

Did u ever noticed back flow from top of intake to your catch can. I have mine set up just as u. Took out catch can and noticed out to intake was wet in tube. Put another one in between the catch can and intake and got oil in it. But now the tube between both catch cans is dry. So which I'm thinking 🤔 is I'm getting oil back from intake headed back to bank 1 valve cover. So is this when higher throttle and what would happen if we put check valve there to keep from flowing back? Thank u.

I have the same problem, except the controller display shows higher temp than what the real temp actually is.

Hi do you recomend drill hols in PCV Valve Breather or just install new PCV Valve Breather?

Any updates Pooks838? Thank you

I have a CTS where the engine is not transverse. The PCV port is on Bank 1 going to the center of the intake, (past the throttle body). On Bank 2, there is just a hole in the valve cover connecting to the air duct before the throttle body. I have installed 2 of the same black catch cans, one for each side. Are you saying that the one on Bank 1 should be plumbed in reverse? OUT to the valve cover port, IN to the air duct? Thank you for the information.

Please clarify as my understanding is that bank 1 on the back side of motor vents crap directly into the top of intake manifold...BAD as this is the dirtiest side and the front bank empties directly in front of the throttle body. You are suggesting that air is drawn and runs to your 1st catch can . NO CLEAN AIR is used in the pvc system. The second can is redundant in my understanding of the system. Flow is one way from crankcase back to intakes. Positive pressure is created by blow-by in the cylinders and is then routed and vented back in to the engine intake and is the reason that the intake valves on direct injection engines become crusted and destroyed. I am planning on combining both banks into single line in on catch can and out side back to front on throttle body.

Can you give me a follow up on this? I just bought the Pro 34 yesterday. I am going to put a thermometer in the cover today and do my burn in. Because I am an old school cooker, I have more trust in the thermometer. I want to make sure I am cooking at the Temps I know. I would love to calibrate the controller right off the bat.

question about smaller catch can/separator... what size threads for the brass fittings going into the ends of can? are they 1/4" pipe thread?

Thx for the video. Looking to do the same thing. Would you happen to have the model for both catch cans?

ua-cam.com/video/FhonIIx3hfg/v-deo.html

When you were done. Did it remedy the problem? I did the same thing but when i was done it was still the same. It only reads 1/4 of a tank. When its full or empty. Heres a link to my video.

Those really weren't that bad, for that mileage in a GDI.