Nice idea. But isn't solder too weak for it to be permanent? I assume it would break off after some use. Welding would be better I guess but then that means much more effort/cost.
Although I've cut the point off ghe bottom of my mora sheath tit also has two holes in the sback side . Ive noticed there are no drainage holes in your sheaths .
@@franktechmaniac7488 I beleive that I paid around the same amount as you back then... but if they stopped the production, it makes sense that the prices will go up. On the bright side, theese knives will become even more special. :)
@@TheWildCusli I happened to get a no 2 laminated (red handle). I simply burned the paint off with a propane torch, sanded it, then left it in a cup of linseed oil. Feels very nice to have a natural golden finish and a laminate mora, they are so hard to find now
The plastic sheath will actually fill up with water if you are using it in the rain or snow. Then the next time you go to use it, it will have become rusted. If your lucky, you notice this before it ruins the finish. I didn't. I would like to make a leather one. Add that to the too many projects I have, by a factor of 10. I cut the tip, for an expedient solution, and provide a drain.
Nice find. Definitely Hults Bruks, pre-1988 (cold stamp), and original handle. That epoxy stuff was used by most of the bigger Scandinavian makers from the 60-80's, HB called it "AGDORFIX", and its horrible stuff to work with! Unusul pattern, looks a bit like a Vira. You can submit photos of vintage HBs to the company and they will usually get back to you with an age estimate and pattern name.
You can clean it out the best that you can. Then place a couple of drops of epoxy or shoe glue in it & let it cure. That should keep all crud out of the knives.
@@TheWildCusli Thanks. I use WD-40 for mine(only the blades) and I wasn't satisfied. I'll give the olive oil a try. For handles, I'll stick to linseed oil, as it polymerises over time and gives good grip and weather protection.
@@heyarnoI've used WD40 as well, and many other oils of that kind. (And still do if I dont have any other) I have also used Linseed oil on the hande, but I prefer something that I can use on both handle and blade. Thats why I usually use olive oil. (And it doesnt leave the knife "tacky") But in the end... I dont think it really maters that much, as long as the knife is well cared for. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
Fill the handle where to tang enters with 888 glue, it’s very thin and super strong, it will penetrate deeply and seal it and strengthen it, great looking knife 👍😁💪🏻
Mora classic is not a dangerous knife, it’s a usability is so much better than all the clumsy models with choils or guards or whatever gets in the way.
Please, what oil did you use? I sealed the gap on the base of the blade, with glue, or silicon glue, can't remember exactly, but I guess almost any glue would work! I did that the day I got it! Can you please tell me the oil you used? The oils I use, do not provide that beautiful tone yours got!!
Hey :) I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (since its food grade). But I have the knife for a while, so I've actually used many diferent oils on it, such as linseed oil and WD40 😅. I have other knives (moras included) in which I apply the same oils but dont get the same results... because I always end up using my old trustworthy knife. so what i figured is that what actually gives the knife hande its color is just simply using it. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
all the best man , i wish i seen more of the cat she looks awesome i love cats , you can seal the gap with either bees wax or lee valley tool has a special sealant with a needle for application it was made to seal all sorts of cracks between the wood and the eye of the axe
I have so many moras but no classics.... going for the classic 1 (the small one though) the little 3 incher. Mainly because I already have a ton of 4 inch knives and want a carver. Definitely stripping the handle. It's made of birch wood, so I think birch oil is appropriate.. though I may start with the trusted linseed.
I beleive that at some point I put some sort of glue in there. Not the best quality because after some time it was gone. Nowadays I just squirt some oil in there and leave it be. I dont think that the gap is a huge deal, but its something to look out for. (Keep in mind, not every Mora will have a gap)
@@TheWildCusli Ah, very good. Well, I watched some of your other videos, and it seems you now have some backup Moras if this one ever fails. Seems like it's going strong, though! I enjoy your content! Regards!
ttps://ua-cam.com/video/sjKOhWu2z0A/v-deo.html The video i sent you is a 3 strand. I beleive that I did a 4 strand for my Mora. Just add another string :)
Use Burt’s Bees chapstick to fill in those crevices
It's... Moo-ra, not Mo-ra...the correct pronunciation ❤
Morakniv seems great everyone has an issue with the sheaths. End up making their own.
@@Anabsurdsuggestion I have never hade a problem with the sheath itself, exept for the belt loop
最初のCLASSICの方がシースが好み
Using corn oil , olive oil , or vegetable oil will service the blade without contaminating food .
How about solder with a soldering iron. You could seal the gap that way too no?
True, a very good permenant fix 👌👏
Nice idea. But isn't solder too weak for it to be permanent? I assume it would break off after some use. Welding would be better I guess but then that means much more effort/cost.
@@JPazer welding would change the temper of the blade.
@@TheWildCusli didnt think of that
I melted pine pitch into that gap and it's done pretty well. I mean, the gap is sealed to the edge of the ferrule. Waterproof...
Коту огромный привет передавай 😅😂
Although I've cut the point off ghe bottom of my mora sheath tit also has two holes in the sback side . Ive noticed there are no drainage holes in your sheaths .
There is actually a small drainage hole in the bottom. Never had any issued with it :)
Cool video, good info. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the comment :)
Everybody who wants to purchase a Mora One Original needs to hurry up. It seems that Morakniv already stopped making them.
😱
@@TheWildCusli A few years back I paid 35-40 €, don't recall the exact numbers. Being currently unavailable my retailer asks 86 € right now.
@@franktechmaniac7488 I beleive that I paid around the same amount as you back then... but if they stopped the production, it makes sense that the prices will go up. On the bright side, theese knives will become even more special. :)
@@TheWildCusli I happened to get a no 2 laminated (red handle). I simply burned the paint off with a propane torch, sanded it, then left it in a cup of linseed oil. Feels very nice to have a natural golden finish and a laminate mora, they are so hard to find now
Thanks for Sharing. We all need to spend some time outdoors.
Yeah, the Mora Sheaths are cheap junk. Replace it with a real Sheath if you're so inclined .
The plastic sheath will actually fill up with water if you are using it in the rain or snow. Then the next time you go to use it, it will have become rusted. If your lucky, you notice this before it ruins the finish. I didn't. I would like to make a leather one. Add that to the too many projects I have, by a factor of 10. I cut the tip, for an expedient solution, and provide a drain.
Have One, My Favorite, merci. That's "Mora" Knife I Use For Everything; Cutting, Carving, Butchering And Camping, merci.
Love her name !! Super, keep it up :)
Put jb weld in the tiny cracks between the blade
Clean it up and put some 2 part epoxy on the holes that concern you to seal them off.
Nice find. Definitely Hults Bruks, pre-1988 (cold stamp), and original handle. That epoxy stuff was used by most of the bigger Scandinavian makers from the 60-80's, HB called it "AGDORFIX", and its horrible stuff to work with! Unusul pattern, looks a bit like a Vira. You can submit photos of vintage HBs to the company and they will usually get back to you with an age estimate and pattern name.
Your feedback made me like the axe even more, thanks for the information :)
You can use wax to prevent rust as well as oil. Plus you can fill that gap and keep moisture out
You can clean it out the best that you can. Then place a couple of drops of epoxy or shoe glue in it & let it cure. That should keep all crud out of the knives.
My Mora Companion has never let me down, I would like N01 or 2 but I am happy with just basic
Seal that gap with epoxy or CA glue. I did.
Where did you get those sheaths? I have both those knives but they came with crappy sheaths that I hate. Really want one of those leather ones
They came with the knives when I bought them... 🤷♂️ I'm not sure that you can buy them seperatly.
What oil do you use?
I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, because its food grade. (whatever brand)
@@TheWildCusli Thanks. I use WD-40 for mine(only the blades) and I wasn't satisfied. I'll give the olive oil a try. For handles, I'll stick to linseed oil, as it polymerises over time and gives good grip and weather protection.
@@heyarnoI've used WD40 as well, and many other oils of that kind. (And still do if I dont have any other) I have also used Linseed oil on the hande, but I prefer something that I can use on both handle and blade. Thats why I usually use olive oil. (And it doesnt leave the knife "tacky") But in the end... I dont think it really maters that much, as long as the knife is well cared for. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
Great video. How did you make your belt loop on your oldest knife sheath?
I have both. I recently bought them and I love them :)
Prefer my old military knife.
Blade is the same as the Morakniv
Fill the handle where to tang enters with 888 glue, it’s very thin and super strong, it will penetrate deeply and seal it and strengthen it, great looking knife 👍😁💪🏻
Thanks for the tip ;)
Problem with that is the wood will crack, having no room to contract/expand with humidity changes. Wax is a better solution
Nice video. I love Moras. I have one traditional and four moderns
Lol, I can tell your classic is old cause mine has patinad the same way
Mora classic is not a dangerous knife, it’s a usability is so much better than all the clumsy models with choils or guards or whatever gets in the way.
The new classic 1 and 2 also have full rat tangs. The shiny sheaths refers to Mora heritage - they used to have shiny black sheaths
Merci.
Merci a vous
Please, what oil did you use? I sealed the gap on the base of the blade, with glue, or silicon glue, can't remember exactly, but I guess almost any glue would work! I did that the day I got it! Can you please tell me the oil you used? The oils I use, do not provide that beautiful tone yours got!!
Hey :) I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (since its food grade). But I have the knife for a while, so I've actually used many diferent oils on it, such as linseed oil and WD40 😅. I have other knives (moras included) in which I apply the same oils but dont get the same results... because I always end up using my old trustworthy knife. so what i figured is that what actually gives the knife hande its color is just simply using it. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
@@TheWildCusli Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it!!
Hoaning scandi grind knifes aint reallu good
And now we are not aloud to wear a knife in Sweden anymore, there is a new knife-law 2023 and the cops love to get you a BIG ticket!
😓
Love hearing the birds
Nature is beautifull :)
…yo tengo cuchillos Mora como diez años…y lo uso día a día colgado al cuello…en el campo la ciudad…la funda es especial…
Son muy buenos cuchillos. No uso el mío en la ciudad porque es ilegal donde vivo. Pero siempre que puedo los tengo en la cintura :)
That's a great find! How much it set you back?
8 😀
As soon as you found that pile of raisen-ettes ,I knew there'd be garbage somewhere nearby.
Sad but true.
all the best man , i wish i seen more of the cat she looks awesome i love cats , you can seal the gap with either bees wax or lee valley tool has a special sealant with a needle for application it was made to seal all sorts of cracks between the wood and the eye of the axe
Nice knives, I love that style for woodworking. My EDC is pretty similar. I carry an L.T. Wright Boattail.
Thanks :) Boat tail is a great choice. Keep it up :)
I have so many moras but no classics.... going for the classic 1 (the small one though) the little 3 incher. Mainly because I already have a ton of 4 inch knives and want a carver. Definitely stripping the handle. It's made of birch wood, so I think birch oil is appropriate.. though I may start with the trusted linseed.
just shove some wax in that unsealed area, it'll never come out. or glue
Ever considered putting some kind of sealant to fill the gap between the bolster and the tang? Anyway, nice video with some thoughtful points.
I beleive that at some point I put some sort of glue in there. Not the best quality because after some time it was gone. Nowadays I just squirt some oil in there and leave it be. I dont think that the gap is a huge deal, but its something to look out for. (Keep in mind, not every Mora will have a gap)
@@TheWildCusli Ah, very good. Well, I watched some of your other videos, and it seems you now have some backup Moras if this one ever fails. Seems like it's going strong, though! I enjoy your content! Regards!
@@daveburklund2295 thanks for the message. Apreciate it :)
Great to see you again! Would you mind teaching that weave belt loop on that mora knife of yours
ttps://ua-cam.com/video/sjKOhWu2z0A/v-deo.html The video i sent you is a 3 strand. I beleive that I did a 4 strand for my Mora. Just add another string :)
@@TheWildCusli thank you so much! Say it, did you find that Hatchet in Brazil?
@@mauricioruiz9021 🇨🇭😉
Love Love Lova My classic original n,1.. I feel all that you an again
Друже, я з України! Дякую за чудовий огляд та порівняння!!! 👍
Belas facas!