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i just use super glue but if you can pin them it helps. I also have an updated video for these bases where you don't need to use the super glue/pva combo.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures thank you! I’ll check that out rn! I really appreciate the quick reply:)

@@xTriceracopx No worries, happy to help.

Thanks man, working on the titan right now in this style. Building it us more of a challenge than I thought

Thank you, appreciate it.

I get all my STL's from the telegram app. You just to install the app and join the warhammer 40k STL group. They have just about all STL's there for free. Hope this helps

I have used varnish in the past as I have had the same issue as you with the paint coming off. Since switching to the wedge shaped makeup sponges I have not had to as it seems the tool for removal and how you use it is causing the paint to be removed. I found cue tips removed the paint a lot especially if I rubbed with them at all. I also found letting the paint cure for a few hours before applying enamels also helps. The few times I did have the paint come off was when applying the enamel almost straight away after airbrushing the model. I think it just needs a few hours to cure first.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures I did try overnight curing both the acrylic and enamels, Tried using the thinner with qtips and paint brush did not try the sponges but i can see the paint lift as soon as the thinner starts to dissipate. At some point i doubted the primer so i tried with different primers. Paints airbrushed, paintbrushed. Using the same methods with vallejo's, ttc and pro acryl didn't damage the paint at all ... Well thanks for answering i'll try the sponges to check

@@tykrael The cue tips are the worst for it, you need to be very gentle with them. Try the sponges and let me know how it goes.

Thank you, just about to start preparing the model for assembly. Should be interesting.

Not done one in a while so will try and do one on my next tyranid video, not sure if I can fit it all in with the harridan and hierophant!

Thank you, much appreciated !

All the STL's are free and you can get them by downloading the telegram app and searching for the Warhammer 40k STL group. Hope this helps

Lol, will be doing a wraithguard first to make sure I know what I'm doing, then will go for it!

I get all my STL's from the telegram app. You just to install the app and join the warhammer 40k STL group. They have just about all STL's there for free. Hope this helps

Thanks its the first time I have tried adding damage before painting but I think it makes q big difference to have actual chips a cuts in the armour. The titan is going to be insane, just hope I don't f it up.

Thanks, it wasn't too bad once you got used to it. Definitely going to be trying more of it.

Thank you, glad you like it. I thought I might have gone a bit overboard with the battle damage.

Yeah most of my models are 3d prints nowadays. The Saturn can fit fairly big models on the plate and the quality is insanely good

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures aye I rly need a bigger plated printer

I had no idea that you could use hairspray, wish I had known that sooner!

Chipping medium is much better. I've used both and the medium was much better

@@criticalcommenter Thanks for letting me know, saves me wasting any time and money on it.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures hairspray is good in an emergency and it works. I just found it to be more effort and less consistent than using actual chipping medium

@@criticalcommenter have you ever tried apply the chipping medium by brush, just wondering if there's a difference

When you consider the price its by far the best resin to use. If you bulk buy it you can get it for like £12 a litre

Also, Villany Inks have been a game changer for me. Your paint job is on point. We'll done

@@MedicaeSteve Thank you so much, I really like them too.

Thanks, most 3d printers these days are cheaper than most forgeworld models. I was spending thousands a year on GW and have been for years so it was a no brainer. for me but each to their own.

Thank you, been learning so much from your videos, such a huge inspiration. Planning on doing a grimdark phantom titan but I need to really practice the technique on smaller models first.

Thank you, appreciate it, resin is not so bad once you get the hang of using it.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures I got spoiled with assembling plastic. Had a 90% resin IG army back when FW released the DKoK back in the early 2ks. Even after 100 resin guardsmen I never got used to it. Made me hate resin more. Oh, and my Chaos army had 1 of each of the Chaos god resin dreadnaughts. Nothing like heating up a warped piece of resin to try to reshape it. I'm too lazy now. I'd rather not spend hours prepping a model before I can prime it. I'll just keep buying overpriced plastic.

@@fateweaver9844 3D printing is getting a lot better. I did almost no clean up on this model. as I couldn't even see the support marks but other times you do need to a bit of sanding.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures To each their own. If I can't assemble with the ease of plastic I'm not interested. Terrain is the extent I would go with 3d printing if I could 3d print

@@fateweaver9844 I sometimes print entire minis in one piece, but not all STL's have that option but when they do I love it as no assembly needed just straight to painting

Thank you, 3d prints are getting so good, it honestly about as good as a GW model.

Thank you!

I'm pretty happy with the way it is, black has a lot of blue in it and i didn't want to wash away all of the highlights but if you do want it darker then yeah another coat of wash would do the trick.

You can get just about all Warhammer 40k/AOS and more from Telegram. Once installed just search for warhammer 40k stl. Hope this helps

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures Thank you very much

This dry brush volumetric highlight/wash can be done in almost any colour, for a darker blue I would just use a purple base coat and use really dark blue as the stipple colours and wouldn't go as bright with the final dry brush highlights. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks, just trying to assemble it at the moment, its huge!

Thank you, I cringe every time I think about it!

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures i thought it was a brilliant change of pace.

Thank you, I'm really getting into 3d printing, pretty much all of my recent videos have been of 3d printed models.

Yeah the entire combat patrol... can you tell?

I actually have an updated video where you don't need to use super glue. ua-cam.com/video/s8ACsIKfgYk/v-deo.html Its much easier and you can use just about any texture paste.

Thank you, glad to provide some inspiration!

Thank you very much!

Thanks, have you tried any of the other colours they do?

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures Yeah. I have had a play with the whole set now. I can't say that there were any I didn't like. But there were a couple that were very similar to other products I had, and it made it feel like I was doubling up on stuff for no reason. Your video has inspired me, and I am now sitting here putting together a tyranid lictor to paint.

@@Paranormal-Stupidity I only got 3 of the colours but might get a few more soon. Good luck on the Lictor, not painted that one yet.

Thank man, just catching up on your latest podcast.

@TeddyKGBMiniatures haha sweet if you email in please remind alex he is a bellend

@@jmaccsarmiesofArda going to email in complain about that guy who hates wet pallets.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures Not sure who you are referring to there xD

Cracking video. Three updated techniques really make the scheme pop.

Your welcome!

Thanks man, appreciate it, Yeah the villainy inks are really good and defiantly worth a try. Will be using more of the carrion crimson for sure.

You wont regret it, I have the full set and love it.

I just use super glue with some metal wire, I can then cut the wire when I'm done. Hope this helps

I think I will be painting up the combat patrol soon so hopefully there might be more there for you to steal :)

You just need to practice more and you will get better each time. Let me know if you need any help or advice, always happy to help.

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures so i feel i got a good color on the body, i basecoated my "lightning" red, but how do i get a good glow on the lightning with drybrushing? or do i need to go over every nook and turn like you did to get "glow" into it? thanks againt for a great paint.. really really happy with my bodys colours, wish i could send you a picture :D edit - i COULD send you a picture. joined your discord :D

@@unproven8825 you could definitely get a good glow with dry brushing, I wish I had dry brushed mine as it would have been faster. Let me know how it goes

@@TeddyKGBMiniatures Best model ive done to date. Thank you

@@unproven8825Your model looked amazing, you nailed it!

Thank you! Cheers!

As if there was any doubt... Thank you!

I have tested this before. It wont be as good but it can be used if its all you can get. You need to move the wash to where you want it when applying as it dries a lot faster. You can also make your own black oil wash with oil paint and white spirit, it would be exactly the same as the weathering pigment if you use a decent quality oil paint. Let me know if you have any other questions

@TeddyKGBMiniatures awesome thanks for the advice, I'll probably just looks at getting some weathering pigment then

@@prof.ragequit8371 Any black oil or enamel wash can be used, so even things like black streaking grime would work

Thanks, been loving these villainy inks so far

Thank you, glad you like them!

Thank you, purple is a really good base for a lot of colours.

I actually think it would work well from a zenithal prime, Just maybe go a bit heavier on the white and keep the recesses dark and it should look good with a quick wash. Or you could just re prime the entire model white if you wanted but I don't think you need to. Hard to tell without seeing pictures.

Thank you!

Thank you for the high praise, really appreciate it even if its not true. I do have plenty more dry brushing videos to come in the future.

Thanks man, really appreciate it.