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Mike Trice
Приєднався 29 кві 2018
Lining a 4mm coach addendum
Follow up videos clarifying aspects of lining a 4mm coach.
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Відео
Honing a cheap ruling pen
Переглядів 6 тис.4 роки тому
How to hone a cheap ruling pen for lining models
lining a 4mm gresley coach part 2
Переглядів 1,5 тис.4 роки тому
Part 2 of how to line a 4mm scale Gresley coach with a ruling pen.
Lining a 4mm Gresley coach with a ruling pen part 1
Переглядів 4 тис.4 роки тому
Part 1 of how to line a 4mm scale Gresley coach.
Painting a varnished teak finish in model form part 2
Переглядів 2,2 тис.4 роки тому
How to reproduce varnished teak in model form in 4mm. Part 2
Painting a varnished teak finish in model form part 1
Переглядів 3,2 тис.4 роки тому
How to reproduce varnished teak in model form in 4mm. Part 1
Lining the Rails Dynamometer Car
Переглядів 1,4 тис.6 років тому
Lining the Rails Dynamometer Car with a ruling pen.
Weathering The Rails Dynamometer Car
Переглядів 3836 років тому
Applying an oil pin wash to weather a model carriage.
I appreciate the attempt. I wish it wasn't out of focus. You'd be better served by learning how to shoot a proper video.
Where do you find Johnson's klear?
I lined a gresley teak carriage years ago. Scale 1:1. the yellow lines either side of the vermilion, at HO scale are 0.03 mm, this is why I don't do model railways. It's always clunky, however good the work is, perhaps O guage may be easier to work with.
I'm having a hard time finding really helpful guides for using ruling pens for lining in this scale, so thank you do much for posting these videos! I'm currently planning a repainting project for a couple of locos, and need to re-line tenders, tanks, and cab sides in this scale. Have you ever had much luck painting more complex curves with your ruling pens? I'm thinking that I might need to make a set of curve templates out of styrene, like you have, but I can see this becoming a bigger project than decorating the actual loco.
Love the styrene and blu-tack jig for doing curved lines... ...just an aside - a small wood workers vice with padded jaws helps to hold bodies still for gluing/painting. I haven't attempted coach building yet but I find them invaluable when I am building my P.O wagons. Even in gauge 1 an extra set of hands comes in very handy. Finally, and I haven't used paint in a bowpen before, but as a young draughtsman back in last century (yes, I am that old) I was taught to try to keep the bowpen as upright as possible so that gravity enabled an even flow of ink to avoid skips in the lines. Obviously India ink is thinner than Humbrol.... but who knows.... 🙂
Hand lining at 4mm… you have got my attention sir !! Am considering trying this on a Gauge 1 coach and i thought that was going to be a sensory overload… One question, any tips on doing curved lining..? 90degree and 180degree arcs??? Again, I doff my cap to you.
amazing work Mike really good
A lost art for most... thank you for sharing
Holy shit 😲😲😲💪
Mike, thanks for explaining in great detail. I have recently purchased a 2nd hand set of Wild instruments. The larger ruling pen is good, whereas the smaller one appears to have been dropped on it's point so that the blades are bent inwards at the ends. Guess this might need quite a bit of repair / honing. Any suggestions on the repair would be appreciated. David
Very interesting thank you. I do wonder if it would be an idea to use the Pheonix paint base yellow, form a second coat from the Vallejo paints and then use the darker tone to give a smilar effect?
Thanks, just what I've been looking for, Cheers Rich
I really enjoyed this. I have a rake of eleven coaches that i want to improve the look of. I tried one method i saw on UA-cam and it was a disaster - no doubt my fault. Your method appeals to me though. I have some oil paints but do you think this method would work using artists acrylics? Thanks again.
I am certainly aware of people using acrylics and getting a good finish. I think the secret is to apply multiple thinned coats. For me a major benefit of sticking with oils is their transparency and long drying times giving time for the graining to be dragged out. This might prove difficult with acrylics. Good luck if you decide to give it a try. Would like to see the results.
You really should add why you have repainted an otherwise new and superb model that cost about £120, to the Description ? Rails/ Rapido have just done another run of them (April 2022) for a few quid less than the original batch !
thanks for sharing very helpful vids found from WT
Thank you!
this is what decorators call scrumbling
Outstanding, thank you so much for posting, this has realy helped me out
Looks like this video is to well hidden. 11 months old and I'm making the first comment. Your channel seems the only place to find out how to line teak coaches, so well done for showing us how its done. I went out yesterday and purchased a ruling pen from my local art shop in Berkhamsted. Its only a cheap Jakar, so I examined their stock for the one with the best tip. Got it home and honed the tip as you advised using wet and dry. Tested it using old genuine Hull made Humbrol No.7 I luckily already had on my bit of teak painting test bit of foam board, and happy to report it worked beautifully. Just need to complete the Five79 Pigeon Van kit final varnish coats prior to attempting the lining for real. Anyway, cheers for giving me the confidence to try this. Just a thought, but I'd expect sign writing enamels would be perfect for this, whereas modern fast drying enamels wouldn't ? PS. Please get your camera in focus.
Metal files should only be used in one direction, you will f it up by going back and forwards like that.
I am only applying pressure on the forward strokes.
Sorry another urban myth,I have 2 die filing machines which I use & they recipricate using modified standard files [as genuine die files are difficult to obtain] & they move up & down with no relief on the return stroke & they don't harm
It may only cut on the forward stroke but if your file is ruined by soft metal like this then it wasn't really a file in the first place 😂
I watched this a few days ago, I have an expensive ( Haff ) and a cheap bow pen, Both do not give me a good result, So i followed your instructions, And result Both pens work great, I am very happy, Thankyou for showing.
Very nice technique, Mike. I have ex[erimented with this and I love the look of the Vandyke Brown. Cheers, Tom
Thanks for sharing your method Mike. I have done one of my coaches using your method as described on RMWeb and must say it works very well. The use of Klear is a new one to me but it does seem to give a lift to the base colours, I will try that on my next one.
Mike, you are great at explaining things! Thank you!
Great informative video...especially for someone who doesn't know how to do it. Mike can I ask that you show the loading of the bowpen that was just out of frame in this video please?
Glad you like it. I think I show it in either part 2 or the addendum video. Trying to video on one's own is difficult as you only get one shot at physically doing it.
@@miketrice2809 I haven't seen the addendum so will go look tomorrow. This subject is one that has been missed out on you you have nailed it!
Just checked. You want the addendum: ua-cam.com/video/Fh-2v0f1KZI/v-deo.html
No idea why my comment was inserted 4 times! Apologies.
No idea why my comment was inserted 4 times! Apologies.
Products used in this video: Windsor & Newton Oil Colour 3 Burnt Umber (if you want a newer colour) Windsor & Newton Oil Colour 41 Vandyke Brown (for a darker colour - my personal favourite) Windsor & Newton Liquin Original Golden Taklon Flat Brushes Johnson's Klear This is not a fast process. Make sure 24hrs have passed since the base colours have been applied (see part 1) and a further 24hrs must pass between applying the oil graining coat and the final coat of Klear.
Products used in this video: Windsor & Newton Oil Colour 3 Burnt Umber (if you want a newer colour) Windsor & Newton Oil Colour 41 Vandyke Brown (for a darker colour - my personal favourite) Windsor & Newton Liquin Original Golden Taklon Flat Brushes Johnson's Klear This is not a fast process. Make sure 24hrs have passed since the base colours have been applied (see part 1) and a further 24hrs must pass between applying the oil graining coat and the final coat of Klear.
Products used in this video: Halfords' Filler Primer Vallejo Bright Orange Acrylic 70.851 Vallejo Orange Brown Acrylic 70.981 Vallejo Flat Earth Acrylic 70.983 Golden Taklon Flat Brushes Johnson's Klear