Відео

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I haven’t noticed it but I have the stock B&O system. Pretty sure it makes noises as I drive though.

Hi! Yeah, both grounds need to be connected. The small one was for the ARB switching relay and the big one is for the compressor itself. I used a water proof butt connector but the purple is the signal wire to tell the compressor to turn on. The orange/brown goes to the auxiliary switches on the interior of the Bronco. Flipping the switch completes the circuit to the relay which in turn completes the circuit for the compressor to turn on.

Yikes, you do need to tie the grounds together. I suggest you put the tiny ground wire into the large one's ring terminal. The switch won't work otherwise.

I was a tad early in the season for Colorado so didn’t make it down anything gnarly as there was too much snow at the time. The bit of trails I could make it down were pretty rocky and I slid off a rock and did bang up the one shock skid but it took it like a champ! I think the hardest ones to install were the shock skids because the bolt needs to be torqued back to 350 ft-lb which is insanely tight and I had no real leverage being on the floor.

I liked all the other skids though! Easy to install and gave me some peace of mind even though I haven’t banged them up yet.

Only kinda wedged in. They are secured by compression of the shock bolt which is 350 ft-lbs so I don’t think it’s going anywhere and if it does whatever other options you installed probably got blown away too.

You’d rather small bolts that will snap at the first obstacle?

Yeah they do. I would say it’s similar to the HOSS 3.0 but not sure if they will fit since it is a pretty close fit already. I would check the site or even contact DV8 they have great service!

​@doublegstudios1123 Thanks for the reply. Ive tried contacting DV8 3 times now and noe response. I just ordered them and will modify if needed. Cheers

You can reach it from the top of the engine bay but re-engaging it can be difficult if the gears don’t line up. Most people I’ve seen just power spool out. I’ve also seen some people build a long lever extension where they basically weld a piece of metal rod to it and attach the handle at the top of the engine bay and secure the rod.

you dont....I know....you just have to give that up.....it is a hassle to deal with, too...until you learn how to just unspool using the motor...best to have 2 people...but one can do it with a bit of practice....problem is you are limited to the length of the control cable .....so you just stand and keep pulling out til you think you got enough or all...but hey...its hidden

Glad I could provide a laugh. Thanks for watching!

I would agree with the rounded bolt heads if you can find them. Also would recommend them be graded bolts too. Not sure if the original are grade 8 or not. If I recall correctly the 4 mount into the skid and winch plate so they will certainly experience some forces when using the winch. No I never got around to figuring out a better spot. I was thinking of putting it in the front bumper but all the alternate locations I found would need a custom mounting plate fabricated up and I just don’t have the means to do that currently.

I can’t remember off the top of my head but I think it was somewhere between 100-200lbs

Stability depends on a few factors like the type of floor (hard or carpet), weight on the desk, etc but on hard flat floor with the feet adjusted properly level with a couple monitors and peripherals it’s pretty stable while standing and even more so at sitting height. The wood is the compressed particle board type stuff with a laminate overlay but with the giant mouse pad over the top you never really notice it. The desk itself is heavy with the legs since the motors and metal make it heavy but overall id say it’s in the 50-60lbs range fully assembled.

@doublegstudios1123 can you press it down with your hands on one of the long sides, putting your body weight on it, with the confidence that it will not tip over?

While in the standing position? No, probably wouldn’t be a good idea. Sitting position yes. 170+ pounds would be a considerable amount of weight though and I’m sure the user manual says there is a weight limit well below that.

Yeah I agree with everything you said. I wouldn’t mess with the hardware too much but for a cheaper OEM style roof rack it will do the job. Did you notice any additional wind noise with yours (unloaded)?

@@doublegstudios1123well I’ve got the ski rack on now which creates it’s own wind noise. Not sure about the rack on its own. But with a rack and loaded with skis there’s definitely more wind noise. But I expected that. But hey, the Bronco ain’t exactly a quiet car on the highway without a rack! I don’t mind.

I didn’t notice any issues when I took it wheeling a couple different times. I am stock height with the stock 33” tires so might be a different story if you are lifted.

If you unplug the desk then it will stay at whatever height you set it at. You can turn off the lights by holding down the button but they come back on if the power is reset. You can always attach them but not plug the lights in too.

Milwaukee M18 FUEL High Torque 1/2" Impact

Thanks

I’m planning to go to an OHV area local to me in October but when I was out in Colorado in May the limited wheeling I did had no issues. The bronco overcame pretty much any issues and didn’t need the winch or the front bash plate. The plate is actually as thick or thicker than the factory skid. Only downside is bolt heads are exposed. Most winches like the Badland Apex or RC ones have plastic control boxes as well as plastic remotes. With it being hidden I’m not worried. You’d have to cave in the skid pretty bad to do damage. Plastic remote seems fine for durability. The biggest issue is finding a place to mount the extension plug for it.

skid is thick...no issue there...1st class setup

No I didn’t have a torque wrench that went that high or the space to give me enough leverage even if I did. I would advise marking them with a paint pen to determine if they do move after you attempt to torque though and check every hundred miles

Yes it seems you can. Apparently Broaddict had a bad batch that were manufactured incorrectly and the tolerances too tight to allow it for my particular rack. They have since rectified the issue! Unfortunately I have no way to change the video without deleting it and uploading a new one.

There were no listed torque specs so good and tight was it. A standard ratchet worked fine. Might have had an extension on it too, but can’t remember.

Forscan is a software made for modifying many Ford computers (forscan.org/home.html). In order to enable the fog lights you need to tell the computer that they now exist if your model didn’t come with them.

Great idea, I added to the description but here’s the list: Bracket: td-distributing.myshopify.com/products/21-22-bronco-modular-bumper-led-light-set Pigtail used: www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4342 Light switch: M2DZ-11654-DC www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-switch-assembly-headlamps-m2dz11654dc Fog lights: www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSJ1H4H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes have them for sale locally now

The brackets are LoD Offroad Black Ops Double A-Pillar Base Light Mounts; Black The pod lights are a generic brand off Amazon.

Interesting about the shims. I figured they were there for clearance. Wonder why they provided them then.

It certainly was tough for me. I believe they had some manufacturing issues. Could always reach out to Broaddict and see if they will rectify the issue for you.

For fitting the rear crossbar, I put one bolt through the hole on each side and threaded them about 80%. After that was done on each side, I placed the second bolt on each side and had no issue. Thanks for the video though - the instructions had me scratching my head.

Rear crossbar was easy to install for me

I've read several reviews on this replica Ford roof rack. No matter whom you purchase it from, it is just a rebranded unit from China. You'll see these racks all over Amazon and Ebay from several vendors rebranding them. The problem is always the rear cross bar not fitting correctly. The issue is that the replica was originally made from copying the kit made for a 2 door Bronco. Ford actually makes a roof rack with an entirely different part number for the 4 door. The dimensions are slightly off which leads to the difficulty fitting the rear bar on a 4 door Bronco. The holes that the bolts fit through may need to be elongated slightly using a dremel tool so that the bolts will be able to be fastened down with less interference.

Like I said. I recently installed mine and it fit perfectly. I use it only for a ski rack and then will remove in spring for top off driving. I wouldn’t put weight on it. Perfect for my needs. Would never use it for a rooftop tent

After doing a good bit of reading on the subject it seems a relay/fuse really isn’t necessary. The prevailing thought is that if it was needed the manufactures of the winches would include them but in reality those things are just to protect the wires from burning up. I did however put in a kill switch so there’s no power to the winch until I think I will need it. I went with this one: Bulldog Winch (20079) Power Shut-Off Kit a.co/d/j38Aqz9

I believe Broaddict sells only on Amazon. Here’s a non-affiliate link: Broaddict Roof Rack Cross Bars Kit Fit for 2021-2023 Ford Bronco 2/4 Door, Side Rails Crossbars Cargo Accessories Replacement (Not for Bronco Sport) a.co/d/1cqejFF

@@doublegstudios1123 like oks very much like the stock one….nice

Nope, it mounts behind/under it where there is a void and doesn’t block/impede anything.

no no

Would love to go back but I am not local unfortunately!

No you can’t even tell they exist under there. I forget the total weight but it’s probably less than 100lbs.

Yeah some people have said a C-Clamp is your friend with this install. I got it back together and drove around a few times already and everything handles well so far.

Thanks for the comment!

I have 2 28” monitors on arms and a ThermalTake View 51 case on the desk and that pretty much maxes it out. I think it might be possible depending on orientation of your monitors and placement but it’ll be pretty cramped is my guess.

@@doublegstudios1123 appreciate it! Thank you for this video man

Does yours have the cross bar over the front quarters? Mine barely had enough room with the crossbar and would require forcing the quarter panel out which I wasn’t comfortable doing.

@@doublegstudios1123 yes it does. Those cross bars are in a fixed position so they are all (yours and mine) are in the same position. They will come out under the main side rails. One side comes out first start which is the drivers side. Once you have the latches turned. Open door, put down the front windows. Lightly push up on the drivers side panel and pull the one latch for that panel in the closed position to give you room to get out under the rail, then pull it out under the main roof rail. Replete the same of the passenger side. You don’t need to touch the roof rail. It gets easier each time you do it. 👍

Interesting, I was trying all sorts of different positions and angles and couldn’t get it to come out since there wasn’t enough vertical clearance above the panel and the crossbar/front assembly. The lever on the front inside of the panel wasn’t clearing either.

@@doublegstudios1123 I was going to do a video for you but there’s already one. Here you go. ua-cam.com/video/X0WXe3bhKn0/v-deo.html

​@@doublegstudios1123 Hi, we recently discovered that there are indeed such problems in a small batch of our roof racks. We have urgently contacted our QC department for rectification. Sooner a brand new series of Broaddict roof racks will be presented to our users. Thanks a lot for your feedbacks. wish you all have a good day.

Does yours have the cross bar over the front quarters? Mine barely had enough room with the crossbar and would require forcing the quarter panel out which I wasn’t comfortable doing. I closed the grip and it was still about a half inch shy vertically of being able to come out.

If you are talking about the rear most cross bar, this one was a bit tricky. You need to place the edges of the cross bar on top of the lip on the clamps. Put one side bolts in loosely so it can still move back and forth then put in the other side. My holes didn’t perfectly align and I needed to push the clamp section in a bit to get it to go in. If yours are wildly off you might need to contact Broaddict support or drill out the hole a little bigger.

Thank you so much. Could never have installed without your video! Took me 4 hours, but got everything on but the crossbars. Mine did not have a front indicator, so trying to make sure I install properly.

IIRC the crossbars kind of look like tear drops and the back of the drop (tail) goes to the rear.

No. I tried to remove them and the front hook latch mechanism didn’t seem to clear the frame. Seems like it would have enough verticals clearance otherwise though.