Відео

Hi. Thanks for your nice feedback. Unfortunately, the diode laser is not able to cut a transparent acrylic board, so I had to use a CNC milling machine.

Hi @mohamadteskie398, if the rotation is flipped then swap the two motor wires. If you used the same stepper motor type (17HS15-0404S), the connection to terminals is as follows: A2 - blue, A1 - green, B1 - black, B2 - red Regarding the scale: it is appropriate if: - the motor has 200 steps - the planetary gear has a ratio of 100:1 - the gears of the toothed belts have a ratio of 1:2 Do a test directly from the Snapmaker screen and rotate, for example, 90 degrees. What is the effect? P.S. One person wrote to me about similar symptoms - the stepper motor shaft was sliding in the gear (it was not tightened properly). Check - it can be it, also check that the pulleys on the shaft do not slip. On the shaft, I made indentations for the heads of the bolts to make sure that the pulleys will not slip. Good luck, let me know. Regards Ronin

@@RoninRonin Thank you for getting back to me. I have fixed the rotation direction issue. Regarding the scale, I think I found the issue. The P/N you suggested is PLE17-G100 and what I ordered is EG17-G100. I tried to move the B axis 360 degrees on the screen and that caused the rotary tool to turn 90 degrees only!! Any suggestions for a solution before I order another gearbox?

Hi@@mohamadteskie398, the planetary gear you used is correct, but I think you installed the pulleys incorrectly - you probably swapped them. Check if it is like in the video - a pulley with 30 teeth ion top and a bigger pulley with 60 teeth on the bottom ? See : ua-cam.com/video/caKUuR9GnFo/v-deo.html Good luck, let me know. Regards Ronin

@@RoninRonin You are awesome Ronin. Thank you for taking the extra steps to help me troubleshoot the problem. Everything is working fine now!! Thank you again.

Hi Alex, Yes - it works very well - you must try it 👌 The effect will amaze you 🤣 P.S. I recommend an older laptop model for this✌

Hi RustyInventions, many thanks for your feedback.

Thanks for the nice feedback.

Hi. Regarding the ER32 collet, I use the model MTB2-ER32-M10. Initially I bought this QCTP set only for testing. I don't know the name/type - search on AliExpress number 3256805701808475. The main part this QCTP is made of aluminum :( I honestly didn't expect much from this set but I am very positively surprised - so far I work on it even when machining steel. I only made a brass sleeve for the inside and replaced the screw with a quick nut with a handle. The price to quality ratio is very good. However, if you intend to machine a lot of steel items, probably will be better to invest in a higher quality QTCP made entirely of steel.

@@RoninRonin Thank you for your reply! I will look into these items. I'm thinking ER32 is the biggest this machine can take, right? 24mm seems to be the largest collet I can find. I also found a 26mm collet for ER32 but I don't know how serious the manufacturer is. Thank a lot :) *subbed*

@@RoninRonin hope u don't mind me asking another question: How do do you fit the ER32 collet holder into the spindle? In the video I only see you push it in? How does it hold? Thanks a lot. your input is very helpful

Hi@@bastian6173 Proxxon - the manufacturer of this lathe offers smaller ER20 collets for it. In my opinion, size ER32 is probably the maximum - assuming precision machining. The largest standard collet dedicated to ER32 is 20mm. But there are also so-called "oversized collets "available - of course fit but they are shorter and therefore not as precise - the maximum size is probably 25mm.

@@bastian6173 After removing the chuck the hole is a typical Morse cone socket MK2 / MT2 - you can check in the lathe documentation. So, You mount it like anything else with a standard Morse taper - you quickly and vigorously press it into the socket and from the back of the lathe (from the gear side) you screw in an M10 screw about 85 mm long.

Thanks for feedback, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Hi, after removing the chuck the hole is a typical Morse cone socket MK2 / MT2 - you can check in the lathe documentation. I use collet MTB2-ER32-M10 from Aliexpress

Thanks for the nice feedback

@JulioCesarfialloGavilondo Gracias por tu linda opinión, saludos desde Polonia.

Nuevamente gracias por responder estaré al tanto de sus videos si todavía los hace tengo un mini torno parecido al suyo y lo estoy personalizando. Sin duda usted es la única persona que pone planos Sin contar la trasparencia a la hora de hacer los videos gracias y bendiciones mis respeto

Thanks for your nice feedback

Hi, sorry for the delay - I had a busy time, etc. Thanks for the nice feedback. I personally don't need the cover you mentioned but I might do it someday - thanks for the idea. I don't have as much time for this hobby as I would like to have :(

Would be amazing if you could. Just got done with the main one and it works like a charm, thanks a lot and fingers crossed you get around to it.

Hi Michael, sorry for the delay - vacation and now a busy time for me to realize commercial projects. I don't have as much time for this hobby as I would like to have. Write directly what you need because I don't really understand your post - I will try to reply quickly.

Hello, I used cheap magnets where one side is magnetized as the N pole and the opposite side is the S pole. In my opinion, the specific pole does not matter, but I attached all of them with the same pole on the outside. Works very well.

Hi Marco - sorry for the delay in replying - I was on vacation and this is only time for family. I had to measure and draw everything in Fusion - I don't have a scanner. I did it only for simulation and animation purposes. It's not a very precise representation of this tailstock - I focused on the bottom and interior of this object. I use the free version of Fusion which is limited to 10 active projects - if I no longer need a project, I usly export to STL file and delete it. But in this case I probably still have the STL version somewhere - send me your contact details in PM - I'll share it with you if you want.

Hi Bartosz, thanks for the nice feedback 😀 If you decide to do it, you will be definitely satisfied 👍 (but of course first think twice about everything🤞). After several months of working with this modified tailstock, I can honestly recommend it - it makes work incredibly easier and faster. Pozdrowienia z Wrocławia.

@@RoninRonin I finished the upgrade yesterday. It works great! The lathe is now much more user-friendly. Some notes from me: - I had to copy screenshots of your video for drawings; would be great if you could share the files - I used A2 steel for the outer parts and the eccentric shaft; while the eccentric went great, I had a lot of trouble tapping and threading the M6 interface where the lever connects; I finally realized I can't just use cheap taps and bought HSS-E cobalt steel ones from Fanar - then it went smoothly. - I don't own a mill (yet), so I had to improvise a bit; the flat on the eccentric was easy to do with a file. For the rectangular piece, I used a 4-jaw chuck to repeat the famous "how to cut a cube on a lathe" exercise, which went very well, starting from a 7mm-thick brass disk. I filed the center hole with a cheap milling drill bit and a cordless drill. Overall I hugely recommend this as a starter project once you buy this lathe. It really works well, is within the reach of someone just starting, and is comprised of different materials and compounding tolerances so that you can experiment and learn.

@BartoszBanachewicz thanks for your feedback and useful summary. Your description may be useful for others who decide to do this project. Thanks again and enjoy using it.

Hi, the original source codes were published by Snapmaker on GitHub, this is the best source - it contains the necessary comments, etc. github.com/Snapmaker/Snapmaker2-Modules I extracted only what I needed from these sources. Unfortunately regarding Artisan - Snapmaker hasn't released the sources yet - so it will be very difficult :(

​@@RoninRonin that could be great if you share your source file to help me out to cleaning what is not requierd to compile on arduino boards. That way i could better understand snapmaker code to modify code of A400 enclosure.

Of course, safety first. I use original Laser Safety Goggles OD6+.

Hi Marius, I'm very sorry - somehow I missed your comment. Unfortunately I don't have more detailed instructions - if you are familiar with electronics you will find everything in the files I shared - links in the description. If you don't understand something, just write here - I will try to help - maybe it will be useful to someone else.

Hi, the link to the BOM file is in the description of the first part of this video. The components are not critical - the values ​​can be similar - see comments in the wiring diagram.

Hi Fabio, thanks for the feedback 👍

Hi, Yes, I could modify it - it's no problem for me, but I don't have access to a PD400 lathe. So you would have to send me a drawing with the exact shape and dimensions as well as the positions in which the magnets should be placed (make sure these places are made of steel and not for example, aluminum, etc) It would be best to make a prototype, e.g. from cardboard, to check if everything fits, etc.

Hi Ralf, thanks for the feedback 👍 The rotation of the shaft corresponds to the movement of the lower clamping plate by about 2 mm - if you mount it on the tailstock first, it is necessary to remove the handwheel to be able to install the assembled tailstock. But if you have access to the bottom of the lathe or you have slim and long fingers🖖it is possible to install the lower clamping plate later - it is difficult, but it can be done without removing the handwheel. In the video I showed the simplest way - removing and installing the handwheel takes just a few seconds.

@@RoninRonin Thanks for the reply. I understand. However, I am someone who mostly works without a tailstock and only installs it when necessary.

@paullehmor982 Thank you for your honest and professional opinion. I didn't start from nothing - the basis of my project was what you implemented. Thanks

Hi, thanks for the nice feedback 😀 If you decide to do it, you will definitely be satisfied 👍 (but of course first think twice about everything🤞)

Hello Ronin. I have it working, finally!! I am still printing the other components, I hooked it up to the printer and it recognized the module. Thank you much for everything here. I would like to add a couple comments to help anyone who decided to try this project in the future. My first try was with an AT Mega168. I had a couple on hand. Although the code will flash to the 168 successfully, the Snapmaker never recognized it. The video has the stepper driver shown in two different positions, make sure you put it in right before powering the board.

Hi, C2 220uF is connected after the DC/DC converter - the voltage here is approximately 5 -5.5 V DC, so this capacitor must be designed for this voltage (or higher). Links to all shared files, diagrams, etc. can be found in the video description.

@scotts8112 I'm glad everything works. You're right - in the second part of the video (at 1.43 minutes) when I check whether the PCB fits the housing the stepstick is inserted in the wrong direction. Thanks for noticing that. The correct position is shown in the first part of the video when setting the stepstick current.

Another thing to note is that the Snapmaker will not recognize the Rotary module with the 3D print head connected.

@@scotts8112 yeah, Snapmaker developers decided on this functionality. The rotary module (original or my DIY version) only works with a CNC or Laser head.

I'm glad it's useful for you too.

Hi David, thanks for your nice opinion.

Hi, the rotary module is my DIY version with a slightly more powerful motor and a little bigger chuck. It is compatible with the original Snapmaker module. The construction and all components used, etc. are shown in other videos on this channel.

Hi, as far as I know, the air assist module is connected to the heated bed connector. This is a 4-pin connector, (two pins for power, one for PWM control, one for feedback analog temperature measurement). There is no CAN bus communication here - the heated bed connection is detected probably by discovering a change in the analog value. Probably when the controller detects the 20W/40W laser the heated bed connector is set to air control. These are just my guesses - I don't have a 20W/40W laser.

Thanks! makes sense but it is unfortunate, I have the 10W laser and added air assist mod that I found online, but it is annoying that I have to turn it on and off manually, even if I use an independent wifi controller I would still have to turn it off after a laser job is done, so I was hoping maybe we could control it via gcode commands at least if not snapmaker native

Hi, sometimes I actually do it in a similar way with a heat gun - it also works. I haven't tried the oven yet - thanks for your procedure - I will definitely try it 👍 In this case, the box is already varnished and in my opinion the color contrasts nicely - that's what I expected.

I'm glad

Thanks for your nice opinion

Hi, the glass is transparent and does not absorb the diode laser beam :( The paint prevents the beam from penetrating - the laser heats the paint which melts into the glass. Similarly for transparent acrylic - a diode laser will not work (but a CO2 laser will).

Hi, Sorry for the late answer - unfortunately I have less and less time for my hobby :( Coming back to your question - if I understood correctly - you have a 40W laser (from a third party) and you want to connect it to the Snapmaker 2.0 controller? Or ..... you have a 40W laser module from Snapmaker and you want to connect it to the Ruida controller ... ? I think both options are possible - it's just a matter of time and your determination. I looked at your UA-cam channel - do you live in Poland like me?

Tak, Jestem z polski, i mam moduł40 w Snapa 3.0 i chciałem podłączyć go do do innego kontrolera ( w moim laserze co2 używam sterownika RUida RDC6445S ) i ma on pwm , jedynie nie jestem pewien jak podłączyć sam moduł do niego aby ko nie upalić @@RoninRonin

Sterowanie mocą w tym module realizowane jest poprzez sygnał PWM ale wszystkie pozostałe funkcje ( sterowanie wentylatorem, pomiar temperatury itp itd za pomocą komunikacji CAN. Wprost ze sterownika RUida tego nie obsłużysz - potrzebny jakiś moduł pośredniczący z obsługą komunikacji CAN. To tak na szybko.

a jakby na sztywno ustawić prędkość wentylatora max aby nie przegrzewał + chłodzenie dyszy z kompresora , i po prostu pwm sterować mocą ? . nie potrzebuje bajerów do grawerowanie na razie chce ciąć sklejkę 10+ diodą , bo w moim laserze który zbudowałem pole robocze jest na tyle duże ze jak z tuby c02 strzelam to mam ogromny spadek mocy ( w skrócie ) wiec do modułu snapa potrzebował bym tylko PWM + 24 v na moduł, hmm tylko wtedy czy temp i wentylator będą jakkolwiek działać @@RoninRonin

Tak, prawdopodobnie w ten sposób można to zrobić. Musiałbyś jednak najpierw zrobić kilka testów m.in jaki PWM generuje Snapmaker dla lasera 40 W (np. dla modułu 1.6 W jest to 250 Hz o odwróconej logice) oraz czy na wspomnianym sterowniku możesz taki generować.

I'm glad it's useful for you too.

Hi this is a known issue with newer versions of the Snapmaker firmware. A different mode of handling the M1010 command by the controller, and so on. I wrote about it some time ago in the description of this movi and changed it in the program. Just download the HEX file again and upload it to the microprocessor - it should be OK.

@@RoninRonin Thank you very much. The new HEX file works!

Hello, you have to look at the diagram - it's shared, all component types and designations are there. But if you have problems with something, let me know. Components aren't critical, you can use substitutes with similar parameters.

@@RoninRonin Thank you very much. Then i try to order all the parts. 😉

Hi, The mounting locations for the magnets have been specially selected to adhere to the steel parts. There is no aluminum in these places. Check it in your lathe - you will be positively surprised.

Hello Jan, Sorry for the delay in replying - I've been very busy at my job. But from what I read, you have already found the cause and solved the problem. 👌Congratulations and thanks for the information. Good luck, best regards.