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Buggy Man and his toys
Canada
Приєднався 9 лют 2020
Just me playing on and working on my junk
Greasy triple repair
2 years in the making, finally getting my lazy rear around to actually fixing the greas triple
Переглядів: 35
Відео
GM power steering pump reseal
Переглядів 122 місяці тому
Torn down, repainted and now resealed. The power steering pump from a free boat i am restoring
Kids Quad frame repair
Переглядів 1585 місяців тому
Quad may or may not have been jumped. I havent quite got the whole story yet......
Fixing buggy steering brakes
Переглядів 695 місяців тому
Fixing the steering brakes that i broke when i was a young drunk idiot
Super Pan Part 3: Torsion bar troubles
Переглядів 8857 місяців тому
Super Pan Part 3: Torsion bar troubles
VW Buggy link and king front beam rebuild
Переглядів 239Рік тому
VW Buggy link and king front beam rebuild
Evinrude 15 horse 2 stroke water pump impeller replacement
Переглядів 225Рік тому
Evinrude 15 horse 2 stroke water pump impeller replacement
2012 wildcat oil leak returns......grrrrrrrr
Переглядів 885Рік тому
2012 wildcat oil leak returns......grrrrrrrr
the boots always go bad, i've changed lots of them
Dude you’re an absolute life saver, I’ve been trying to set the timing on my wr426f for months. Thank you kind sir
😂 this sucks At least it didn't blow up 😅
😂 i know what this is like!! I fully rebuilt a carb and installed it too, then looked back at the work bench to find i left a SINGLE pin out!!!!
Yep been there too. What I want to know is why the dude even took them out? Just take the belt off to do engine testing. NEVER fuck with the primary clutch lol
@@buggymanandhistoys6476 😂
How am i the first person to see this😭
send it!!!
@@Tin5674 I planned too lol. The fucking wiring is a nightmare though. Has 3 different switches for power
@ I bet, looks like there will be a list of things to replace, good project tho!
How did you remove the shaft with gear and bearing
Do you know by chance what transmisson oil a 1988 kx 125 takes and what best for it and can tell me what it looks like and?
@@Someone-ls6vd no I really can't tell you what kind of oil because everyone has there own preference on lubricants. What I can tell you though is the oil needs to have friction modifiers for the wet clutch. Me personally I run Rotella t4 heavy duty diesel oil in my 4 stroke bikes and for my banshee I run a yamalube 2r but like I said, it's really all about personal preference
@ so 80w-90 10-40 2t-4t wet clutches, will work on my bike then because im haveing hard time finding anything for that even in manual for it it dont tell me anything about transmission oil and it makeing me mad no joke
@@Someone-ls6vd 10w40 heavy duty diesel oil is fine. don't use 80w90, that's more for a diff then a trans.
@ so putting 10w40 heavy duty diesel oil for non diesel engine in my 88 kx 125 for transmission oil is fine and good for it what im hearing right?
@@Someone-ls6vd yep. It's what I use
ImMarksman?
Bewbz
I wouldnt have painted the pulley
Use one of the old orange emergency V belts that you can adjust to the right sizes. Then measure and order what you need.
chevy junk
Rock auto
Hey man I dont know if you will see this comment or reply but if you do that would be greatly appreciated. I have a 2002 yz426f and i cant figure out whats wrong with it. The bike will run but only when pulled by a truck. it refuses to bump start for a small hill and there is absolutely 0 chance it will start for a kick. I could sit there kicking it for 20 minutes if i wanted to and the thing wont even cough. not too sure whats wrong with it or what to do next. heres the things that i have done/checked on it I started with giving it a good carb clean and rebuilding the carb so thats out of the way checked the valve clearances and they were all in the middle of there specs. they were perfect Bike seems to have more then enough compression to run since I can jump on the kick starter and it wont move unless i use the decomp Engine should be in time as far as cams go too. i had a really hard time lining up the exhaust cam for some reason but i think its good enough to run? other symptoms that this bike has is a rough idle. constantly rising and dropping rpms sometimes it will just die at idle. it hates to do that. it doesnt have a nice smooth idle like yours does. And the other symptom this bike gives me is getting hot quick. not sure if thats just a 426 thing but from a cold start the engine is warm in about a minute of idle, and also if i let it idle for a minute after cruising it around the yard a bit it will start dumping coolant out of the overflow. If you reply that would be greatly appreciated. any pointers are good. Im just so lost with this thing right now I dont know what to do.
@@JacksonHoff-u6q I had the same problem with another bike. Wouldn't start u less you pulled it with a truck to bomb start. Turns out to be cam timing. Exhaust cam was 1 tooth retarded. Caused a lot of problems including a brused foot from kicking so much
@@buggymanandhistoys6476 Thanks for the reply. I feel like it could be cam timing still but im not sure. when i first checked the cam positions it looked like the exhaust cam was off 1 tooth. this is also when the bike would backfire like crazy. so i moved it 1 tooth counter clockwise and no more backfiring but still no kickstart. im wondering if its possible that it could be doing this because of a bent woodruff key? maybe enough to make it run weird but not broken like yours was? or maybe the flywheel magnet has damage making it fire wierd? im not 100% sure anymore. could be right about the cam timing though. no matter what i do i cant line up the dots on the exhaust cam perfectly. almost like the gear slipped on the camshaft.
@@JacksonHoff-u6q woodruff keys don't bend, they sheer and cam gears are bolted to the cam. It's gonna be timing. Pull out inspection plug and line the flywheel mark up with cam marks.
@@JacksonHoff-u6q I had another thought too. If it turns out your cam timing is correct, have you checked your valve clearances? Over time the valves in these heads sink which tightens your valve clearances. These engines are very picky about that. A few thou outta speck can cause a no start as well
@@buggymanandhistoys6476 yep. valve clearances were all in spec and right in the middle of the specs. all intakes measured at 0.13mm and both exhaust valves measured at 0.23mm so those are fine
that 'rubber' might be a Dynamat product, for reducing vibration and noise of metal panels. I lined my F150 in it to keep the Bass in lol
oh, and Ryobi is China Tire; waddya expect?
invest in some suspenders, brother 😄
You have good potential in this channel but it is hard to watch without proper editing and story telling.
Channel is 4 years old and I've only got 455 subs. I need a hell of alot more subs to put more effort into the editing. I already have a full time job that take up all my time
Weird my rear diff has a spring in the cuppler what ever it's called. My sld blew apart putting it back together is a pain..is it supposed to be super tight so it doesn't move?
Looking good
I would definitely clean up those threads on that end and put some anti-seize on there. I'd blow out that shaft if if you could
Do ears bleed? ... Just listen to some of Dad's music at 11 lol
Wouldn’t line restrictions help with keeping pads from backing off rotor as a caliper doesn’t have preset drag like drums so any chatter or flex would start to retract the piston. You may be doing drums as that looks like a vw bug buggy and I seriously don’t know what keeps fluid from returning too much resulting in brake grab I just remember from high school auto class 20 years ago that pads should glide or rub lightly on disc or jerking results from hydraulic pressure ramming pads into disc.
Drum brakes have all those springs to help return pads to neutral so you shouldn't need any static line pressure. You may be thinking of disk/drum setups where you need a proportional valve to keep a bit of line pressure on the drums. This is 4 wheel drum setup. The problem is when the rubber line is really old like the one in the video from the mid 60's, it will swell constricting that line to a point where when you hit the brakes, it will allow fluid though but not return resulting in a brake hanging up and not releasing when you release the petal.
Thanks for posting
Its a good feeling when a plan comes together without drills and grinders lol. Good video man.
Looking for a mechanical part break down on the hydraulic gear shirt. For a 2000 bombardier. Trexter 500cc.. mostly covering the solenoid valve spools. Curious if there are spring in both of the valve spools.
that a cool transmision.never seen that befor...whit axel on both side of it...
What about the gears I have a bad diff and can’t find one
The gears were ok. Not the worst I ever saw. We rebuilt because the seals were leaking and the diff was full of muddy water
good job on the new intro
Hi how did you go about getting the flywheel off when taking this engine apart? Currently trying to rebuild a 1989 and it’s totally seized on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You need to use the proper flywheel puller and she should just pop right off. DO NOT use a 3 jaw puller and hammer.
That brings back so many memories to me, my family used to have one just like that. This four-wheeler was a work horse!
Front diff actually overfill you don’t bring to fill hole the little bolt below the fill hole is the level check
I have a rear differential problem not sure exactly what yet. It only drives in 4wd. How can I check if it’s the coupler or something else
Please describe the noise that you speak of coming from the transmission. I have a 4X and it has a chinging noise when I back off the accelerator and coast. Sounds like something related to the drive shaft. BTW, I’m in the process of rebuilding my rear differential and found your video to be very helpful. Thank you. I just have to hope that I can get the parts I need, including the case. The pinion small nose bearing went and broke the bearing housing out.
The noise I hear is a chinging/rattling.
It's hard to describe but in a nut shell, yes sounded like a rumble, rattle clanking sound. Initially I blamed the wheel bearings (which I did find out were bad as well) as you could also feel it in the steering wheel. Under power it wound not make any noise but under coast it was awful
I dont think ive ever seen you move that fast in my life! haha keep the video's coming brother!
Isn't blue gas/oil mean it's a smokeless mix?
what was the mix ratio?
The gear teeth need to be polished before installing them, especially new ones.
If you heat the housing with a heat gun it will slide together a lot smoother with out so much pounding.
How much would somthing like this cost. Mines burning oil 2011 yz450f 😢
If I remember correctly, he was somewhere in the neighborhood of $800 ish as he opted for a brand new cylinder.
You still got this and if so you ever have ticking noise in top end I’ve been told it’s normal but I feel it’s excessive
best video on UA-cam did u get the ring pre gapped or ???
The engine shop that repaired and honed the jug, also got me the piston. He usually checks the gap for me too but I did my own check off camera before assembling
1:25 yep lol you can see the secondary move by itself there, so it was definitely gummed up and stuck.
see if i can't screw this up lol
Curious what you're whispering while working, doesn't sound like expletives lol
Do a guitar video!!!! Part of a buggy mans toys!!! lol
I was always told to keep the tapers dry, otherwise the is some hydraulic resistance and it will never tighten down to correct spec. ??? I'm not an expert.
Never heard of expansion holes in a piston before(had to go back and check twice if i heard correctly) . Please explain how it/they work. Always eager to learn new things.
Did you heat the bearings or freeze the crank or anything for it to just drop together like that as I had some trouble with mine 94 kx 125
Just in theory with out the power valve connected to the govenor in The motor the machine will not turn on right? Just hella low compression? Just a question 01 kx125
The power valve has nothing to do with compression. If you connect a compression tester to the bike. You will get the 100% same results with the powervalve connected or not connected. So the bike will "turn on" and start with the PW not connected. The bike will even be fully rideable. You will just lose some power on the top end.
Thank you a lot
How does that last silver spline piece that connects to the side by sides shaft go in . Is the only piece you didn’t put back on